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Old 01-11-2018, 07:11 PM   #1
MrKrabs
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Default Typical '97 945 Turbo

Back story to this car:
Bought in Italy during Spring '17, brought it back home and registered it in France.
It's a 1997 (like me!), B200ft, M90 940. In italian 'Polar' trim. 155k km's when I got it, now at 180k.
I got this car because I wanted a quick RWD, turbocharged and manual station wagon primarily for my roadtrips all across Europe, to compete in the downhill skateboarding World Cups that happen every summer here.

My plan for this car is to keep it looking somewhat discrete to the untrained eye (read: cops) whilst improving on every aspect of it like power, handling, braking and somewhat reliability/driveability.
DISCLAIMER : I have no idea what I'm doing. Every thing I've done to this car is completly a first for me!

So far, it has:
-3 inch exhaust with race cat
-MBC and fuel chip
-Wasted spark conversion
-AEM wideband and boost gauge
-Catch can
-IPD swaybars and poly bushings
-Mildly chopped springs & Gaz adjustable dampers
-Kaplhenke quick steer corrector
-Slotted rotors with EBC Yellow pass, DOT 5.1 fluid


This is how it sits at the moment



Packed up on 17 inch Citroën steelies!



Lost in Prague this summer with the bois


After blowing up my 13c hairdryer I got a 15g... And things started escalating since that, as it always does!


Decided to pull the engine out as there was a few leaks and need a new clutch + flywheel for my M90.



Found a 531 head with the VX3 cam in it that is going in there as well.



Installed shiny AN lines for my catch can install and turbo's oil feed + drain lines.


...and that's it for now. I'm waiting on the last batch of parts to finish everything!
Future plans include:
-Fitting my TruTrac diff (already have it, no clue how to install haha)
-Upgraded fuel system to handle the 15g at ~17 psi? (Ideas welcome)
-Suspension back to stock height with HD springs in the rear and "Rally" coilovers in front, to fit 205/70 15 All Terrain's (mainly to do better skids at skate event's grass campgrounds and reach remote-ish places to set the tent)

Any advice more then welcome here!
I can now confidently say I've caught the turbobrick bug
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Old 01-11-2018, 07:22 PM   #2
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Hey!

#1: Jete le vx dans la poubelle et achete un Enem V15, tout suite...ça vaut pas la peine
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Old 01-11-2018, 08:17 PM   #3
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Hey!

#1: Jete le vx dans la poubelle et achete un Enem V15, tout suite...ça vaut pas la peine
Ah un francophone! Je réponderai en anglais pour pas que les autres se perdent..
An Enem V15 = the IPD turbo cam right? And I'll keep the VX3 I think, as I'd rather spend the money on better injectors/012 MAF for now. Btw do you know if a 15g can "max out" the stock MAF? aka do I simply need bigger injectors to not lean out with it @ around 18 psi?
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Old 01-12-2018, 04:55 AM   #4
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honestly don't waste your time on a 15g. There are other turbos (even ebay ones) that are much better.
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no one saw me with my little umbrella and sandpaper though.
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Old 01-12-2018, 05:09 AM   #5
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Love it
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:08 AM   #6
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Très jolie ta wagon! Mais comme okoye a dit, ça ne vaut pas la peine de perdre son temps avec un 15g. Essaye de te faire un hybride t03t04 tu seras beaucoup plus heureux dans la vie. Pour ton MAF il te faut celui d'une 960 lignée 6.

Sinon tu as un pot pas très loin de toi qui fait des combines très sympa, Pumpish qui est en suède, www.turbobandit.com


http://turbobandit.com/TURBO-Engine-.../startkitvolvo

1498E pour un kit de cette qualité, c'est donné.

Hâte de suivre ton progrès!
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:26 AM   #7
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Nice project, our projects look very alike

If you're earlier than me with the LSD, let me know how it works out.
I've got a spare axle ready to drop in a LSD but still not sure which I want to drop in...

Also, did you make that catch can setup yourself? I just need a block adapter, I can figure out the rest I guess
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Old 01-12-2018, 02:59 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Marek View Post
Très jolie ta wagon! Mais comme okoye a dit, ça ne vaut pas la peine de perdre son temps avec un 15g. Essaye de te faire un hybride t03t04 tu seras beaucoup plus heureux dans la vie. Pour ton MAF il te faut celui d'une 960 lignée 6.

Sinon tu as un pot pas très loin de toi qui fait des combines très sympa, Pumpish qui est en suède, www.turbobandit.com

1498E pour un kit de cette qualité, c'est donné.

Hâte de suivre ton progrès!
Merci bien!
I know nobody here is going to want to let me run the 15g haha, but I got a really good deal on it, and it'll just bolt right in now that I've clocked it. I'm sure in the future I'll end up throwing a 19t CHRA in there for a bit more fun, but for now I'll use this little guy.
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Venlonaer View Post
Nice project, our projects look very alike

If you're earlier than me with the LSD, let me know how it works out.
I've got a spare axle ready to drop in a LSD but still not sure which I want to drop in...

Also, did you make that catch can setup yourself? I just need a block adapter, I can figure out the rest I guess
Yeah it's sitting on my work bench but as I mentionned I have no idea how to fit it in my axle. Surely there's a guide or something somewhere...?

And my catch can is simply a baffled Mishimoto one, with two entre ports, one exit, and a drain at the bottom. I've set it up basically as the Yoshifab redblock catch can kit, the only difference is I'm not using their catch can but my Mishimoto one.
You should check out Yoshifab's website for a block adapter if you still need one!
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Old 01-12-2018, 07:54 PM   #10
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I disassembled a 940 axle yesterday and it's easier than you think. Afaik the only thing you need to pay attention to is transferring the tone ring for the ABS/speed sensor and adjusting the backlash+ adjusting the pinion gear preload. Still need to read up in that stuff as well but it seems definitely doable.

And yeah I know of Yoshifabs products it's just not cheap, I saw someone customize an oil trap box into a block adapter so that's the cheaper option for me
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Old 01-13-2018, 05:39 PM   #11
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Marek, well one, my french is terrible and I'm not going to use a translator to hide that fact. So my apologies for not continuing.

Two - Have you ever seen one of those fitted into a 240 bay? Or even a 7/9 I guess. I'd thought about purchasing one of those to play with a while back but I believe he/they built them to originally work in the Mercedes bay and never responded to my inquiries so I passed it by.
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Old 01-16-2018, 01:08 PM   #12
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Marek, well one, my french is terrible and I'm not going to use a translator to hide that fact. So my apologies for not continuing.

Two - Have you ever seen one of those fitted into a 240 bay? Or even a 7/9 I guess. I'd thought about purchasing one of those to play with a while back but I believe he/they built them to originally work in the Mercedes bay and never responded to my inquiries so I passed it by.
You must contact Pumpish directly through his Youtube channel or call him, he speaks english.

But no, i have honestly never seen any setup for volvo installed on a volvo, just got mercedes bits from him (w124), his stuff is really top notch.
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Old 01-16-2018, 05:29 PM   #13
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I vaguely remember some people ranting about their B230 manifolds being poorly made and not fitting so great either, but that was years ago, before Turbobandit were such a thing...

I'd buy it just because Roman drives ekonomikli!
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Old 01-17-2018, 10:12 PM   #14
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Engine fully reassembled, waiting on my Classic Swede order to arrive with the new flywheel and 850R clutch before tossing the engine back in.
On a side note, anyone knows if I need an 012 MAF to run a 15g at say 18psi? Or will bigger injectors do the job just fine?




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Old 01-18-2018, 01:24 AM   #15
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La bande termique sur la fonte, c'est pas forcement le bon choix, surtout que les collecteurs d'echappement sont connus pour fissurer
Bon courage
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Old 01-19-2018, 06:43 AM   #16
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#TeamFrance
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werent all t5 motor in gaywheeldrive only?
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:38 PM   #17
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La bande termique sur la fonte, c'est pas forcement le bon choix, surtout que les collecteurs d'echappement sont connus pour fissurer
Bon courage
Exact tu ajoute un stress inutile au collecteur, idéalement la bande thermique devrait-être appliqué à l'échappement directement à partir de l'arrière de la turbine.

Tu peux par contre mettre une couverture de turbine qui aiderait à garder une température plus stable sous le capot.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:05 PM   #18
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I would have loved a car like this when I was younger skateboarding. Also, I haven't worked out the French part of my brain in a long time. 6 years in school didn't leave me with much ten years later, but I can read most of that at least. Wagon looks nice.
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:17 AM   #19
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Sure, forgot to install thermal band on your exhaust manifold, it'll crack almost instantaneously...at least it happens to mine...
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Old 01-22-2018, 11:06 PM   #20
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Sure, forgot to install thermal band on your exhaust manifold, it'll crack almost instantaneously...at least it happens to mine...
Oh I didn't know cast manifolds didn't like thermal wrap. I'll be taking it off then! My downpipe is already wrapped. Thanks all you guys for the heads up.



Meanwhile, fitted the TTV billet flywheel and 850R clutch. Flywheel has to be half the weight of old double mass one!




And then chucked the engine back in.

(You can see my homemade grill replacing the old chrome one)



Sadly though, the car doesn't start.. It has no spark. I suspect I've damaged my EZK board when re-wiring the wasted spark board to it. Can I somehow test my EZK box with a multimeter? Is it possible for LH2.4 to not make a spark at all if the flywheel/timing is off?

Otherwise, checked all connections thorougly, as well as grounds that I'm aware of. Spark plugs, spark plug wires and coil pack are all new. Using a second hand Miata powerunit, but unlikely it just stopped working with the engine out of the car.
Suggestions more then welcome!

Last edited by MrKrabs; 01-22-2018 at 11:46 PM..
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:36 PM   #21
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sweeeeeet





#cloutgang
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Old 01-25-2018, 10:32 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MrKrabs View Post
Oh I didn't know cast manifolds didn't like thermal wrap. I'll be taking it off then! My downpipe is already wrapped. Thanks all you guys for the heads up.



Meanwhile, fitted the TTV billet flywheel and 850R clutch. Flywheel has to be half the weight of old double mass one!




And then chucked the engine back in.

(You can see my homemade grill replacing the old chrome one)



Sadly though, the car doesn't start.. It has no spark. I suspect I've damaged my EZK board when re-wiring the wasted spark board to it. Can I somehow test my EZK box with a multimeter? Is it possible for LH2.4 to not make a spark at all if the flywheel/timing is off?

Otherwise, checked all connections thorougly, as well as grounds that I'm aware of. Spark plugs, spark plug wires and coil pack are all new. Using a second hand Miata powerunit, but unlikely it just stopped working with the engine out of the car.
Suggestions more then welcome!
It should spark with the flywheel off but not at the right time obviously.
Have you tested all connections with a digital multimeter? First thing I would suspect is that Miata power unit. Did you pick coil pack with the right dwell?

It's all in the wasted spark FAQ though, I assume you've looked at it already for fault tracing.

Btw nice flywheel and stuff! I went for the cheap route and just used a heavy m47 dogdish flywheel, that ttv is definitely gonna give a nicer throttle response
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Old 01-26-2018, 06:23 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Venlonaer View Post
It should spark with the flywheel off but not at the right time obviously.
Have you tested all connections with a digital multimeter? First thing I would suspect is that Miata power unit. Did you pick coil pack with the right dwell?

It's all in the wasted spark FAQ though, I assume you've looked at it already for fault tracing.

Btw nice flywheel and stuff! I went for the cheap route and just used a heavy m47 dogdish flywheel, that ttv is definitely gonna give a nicer throttle response
It runs ! Had an issue with wiring up the wasted spark board that I didn't notice. I'm starting to learn that ignition issues are very often simpler then it may seem at first haha.

Need to bleed clutch and take care of a water leak where the water pump meets the head and it'll be ready to hit the road. I can already tell the starter motor cranks the engine noticeably faster with the lighter flywheel. Lost ~150 rpm's to my idle speed as well, so adjusted that back to 900 rpm.
Can you tell I'm excited to hit the road?
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:18 AM   #24
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Hokaaaay so,

Bled the clutch, took care of my water leak and finished up the bracket for my new wastegate. It's now a car again! I'm currently at 9 psi, just to get things running and check for potential issues.

Heres how my wastegate actuator bracket looks like. Made out of an aluminium tab I had laying around.
To mount it on the turbo I used one of the original bolt holes for the stock 15g actuator and then drilled (very slowly) and threaded in where the model designation plaque would be for a second mounting point. Making brackets is actually sick aha!




Painted it heat resistant black.




The good news is zero leaks, starts right up (quicker then it ever has, maybe just because of lighter flywheel?) and comes in to boost nicely. It feels as quick now with the 15g and 531 head + VX3 cam @ 9 psi then it did before when stock @ 13/14 psi, which is encouraging.

However, I'm currently running a ClassicSwede "stage 2" fuel chip for a B230ft, and up to 4000 rpm the AFR's are nice at around 11/12, but above that it slowly gets richer, to the point where it'll dip under the 10's around redline. This isn't related to the fact that my engine is a B200ft is it?
In the meantime I think I'm gonna put my stock chip back in and live with a 12 psi fuel cut.


In any case, here it is in the south of France's sun as of today!
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:17 PM   #25
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it means you need more boost to use all the fuel.
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