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Lh2.4 no spark

G

gumpy

New member
Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Hey guys I've completed an lh2.4 conversion to a u.k 240 turbo , the fuel injection is working but no spark I've used a 12v test probe and there is no pulse at the ezk.

Cranking I'm getting 10.5v at coil and 10-11v at ezk and fuel computer. I've replaced the crank hall sensor and the 90+ 240 lh2.4 loom is new, checked continuity for the ignition earth's at the inlet manifold and they are good.

I'm using a gold box 0 227 400 219 with a chip (unknown) , I've tried the stock chip and still no pulse to the power module. I'm concerned the ezk is at fault I have another ezk here which is a Bosch 0 227 400 148
Which I'm unsure if it is an lh2.4 ezk .

Any input or suggestions would be great. Thanks gumpy.
 
Did you check for that pulse at the ignition amplifier? If there aren't any wiring issues and you know you have good power and ground. Then the ezk or engine speed sensor are the usual issue.

Does it have any codes? Some don't light the check engine light. Be sure the system part of the main relay aka fuel pump relay is turning on.
 
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dl242gt said:
Did you check for that pulse at the ignition amplifier? If there aren't any wiring issues and you know you have good power and ground. Then the ezk or engine speed sensor are the usual issue.

Does it have any codes? Some don't light the check engine light. Be sure the system part of the main relay aka fuel pump relay is turning on.
Click to expand...

Forgot to say fuel pump relay is working pump primes then runs whilst cranking , yes checked pulse at ignition amp and coil. Replaced the engine speed sensor (flywheel sensor) as it was old and damage to the shielding also the correct flywheel was fitted. Now, I can't check codes as I'm missing the diagnostic box , the plug is there but that's it. would not having it cause a no spark ?

The wiring is good including power and earth's so I've ruled that out.
Cheers for the input so far guys.
 
Yes 148 EZK is non EGR turbo 2.4 EZK.

What is your ECU number? 984 is immobilizer ECU won't work.

Was the correct flywheel put on correctly? You know with the missing crank sensor holes in the lower starter hole position at top dead center?
 
sbabbs said:
Yes 148 EZK is non EGR turbo 2.4 EZK.

What is your ECU number? 984 is immobilizer ECU won't work.

Was the correct flywheel put on correctly? You know with the missing crank sensor holes in the lower starter hole position at top dead center?
Click to expand...

984 ECU with a chip. I never fitted the flywheel so that's a good shout. Would it still spark even if it was located incorrectly?
 
Checking the codes is the easiest way to see if the EZK is faulty or not receiving power.
If it's a 240 loom it should have a code reader built-in. The socket you see is actually the reader, with a small red LED and a flying lead to chose the component to read.
If you really don't have the reader, then make one. It's very easy and will be extremely useful.
 
Code reader:

maxresdefault.jpg
 
crogthomas said:
Checking the codes is the easiest way to see if the EZK is faulty or not receiving power.
If it's a 240 loom it should have a code reader built-in. The socket you see is actually the reader, with a small red LED and a flying lead to chose the component to read.
If you really don't have the reader, then make one. It's very easy and will be extremely useful.
Click to expand...

Awesome will source one. Thanks everyone.
 
You don't need that diag box. They commonly throw false codes always. Buy a test light and use a wiring diagram to figure it out.

It's only 4 or 5 wires to make LH 2.4 work.


Do you have power to the coil while cranking? What about to the computers?
 
ZVOLV said:
You don't need that diag box. They commonly throw false codes always. Buy a test light and use a wiring diagram to figure it out.

It's only 4 or 5 wires to make LH 2.4 work.


Do you have power to the coil while cranking? What about to the computers?
Click to expand...

Yes power to both computers when cranking 10.5v , new hall sensor , tried 2 ezk's , new coil. No pulse from ezk pin 16 , no pulse at ignition amp. The injectors are firing the fuel pump primes and runs as it should. I'm just totally stumped why there isn't a signal pulse being sent.

Does the ezk have another earth besides the ones going to the inlet manifold ?
 
Do you have fuel injector pulse?

There's no hall sensor for 2.4.

What are you using to measure "pulse'?
 
ZVOLV said:
Do you have fuel injector pulse?

There's no hall sensor for 2.4.

What are you using to measure "pulse'?
Click to expand...

A digital test probe , by hall sensor I mean the flywheel sensor.

No I haven't checked the fuel injector pulse .
 
Well you gotta make sure the crank sensor works. Make sure the computers have power and ground. Use a wiring diagram.

Use a test light to each the coil negative and the injector negative, other end to ground. Crank. Blink?


Not sure on what your digital test probe tests consist of.

EZK analysis thread: you're gonna have to quote the post and copy paste to see the pics. For some reason tbricks pic hosting seems fugged

http://forums.tbforums.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=5413084
 
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ZVOLV said:
Well you gotta make sure the crank sensor works. Make sure the computers have power and ground. Use a wiring diagram.

Use a test light to each the coil negative and the injector negative, other end to ground. Crank. Blink?


Not sure on what your digital test probe tests consist of.

EZK analysis thread: you're gonna have to quote the post and copy paste to see the pics. For some reason tbricks pic hosting seems fugged

http://forums.tbforums.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=5413084
Click to expand...

Appreciate it buddy .
 
The 2.4 wiring harness should have that OBD box....

It's really easy to use it to see if the computers are alive or dead.
 
If you put the engine tdc and remove the starter you will be able to see the missing teeth (flat plate with no pattern) through the starter hole if it's on correctly. If its on incorrect it will only spark once.
 

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Since there no information about the donor car I'll put this out there. I installed a 1990 B230F with 2.4Lh FI system and all of the related wiring, basically everything from the center console forward in my 1975 242. After hooking it up everything up, encountered a no-start, no spark issue. After consulting a few people, my issue turned out to be Volvo revised the switch at the rear of the ignition assembly in 1990 so I needed to change the one in the 242 to a switch from a 1990 or newer 200/700/900 car. The switches are different colors (dark brown vs rusty red) and after installing the new one, the car started.

Take a look at post #22: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=324743
 
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