home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > General > article composition

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-22-2014, 11:59 AM   #1
Sharingan 19
Board Member
 
Sharingan 19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Jacksonville/ Tampa
Thumbs up Windshield wiper motor seal for the 21st century -- No more black goo!!!

The wiper motor in my 91' 245 started moving slowly, groaning and making unsavory sounds, so I decided to replace it with the late model version with the separate ground attachment.

Upon removal of the old unit I discovered a sea of black, nasty sticky ....goop in the cavity between were my wiper motor entered the cowl, and were it entered the cabin. I just knew this was the work of some hack job repair shop somewhere during the time before I owned the car.

However, when I pulled the new motor (from a 93' 244) that same baby seal-killing sludge was found. At that point I began searching for the proper OEM seal, only to find that non exists I've got to imagine that the same "genius" you designed the under dash area also came up with this brilliant idea. So I endeavored to improve upon this lazy, if not flawed design.


What you will need:
  • Newer style wiper motor (not needed per se, but if you're going to do it, might as well do it right)
  • Silicone window sealant or your flexible waterproof sealant of choice
  • Razor Blade/ exacto knife
  • HELP grommet #42344 (available at auto parts stores everywhere)
  • Mr Gasket valve cover grommets #6376 (available @ auto parts stores everywhere)

What you will do:

Step 1 - Clean off all the old black tar from your new wiper motor, its a mess and is no longer neccessary. (already done int he picture above)

Step 2 - Slide the Help grommet onto the shaft of the wiper motor, up to the point where the "fins" (not exactly sure of their purpose...cooling perhaps?) stop you. Now make sure to note the orientation of the grommet, (perhaps line up the first number with a fin that you mark). Using your blade, mark the location of each fin. Now remove the grommet.


Step 3 - Remember those marks you made for the fins ? Use your blade to extend those marks straight outward , cutting at least halfway to the edge of the grommet. Keep a steady had, or you'll be back out for another.


Step 4 - Cut the lower/ smaller diameter lip off of the grommet ( Yes, you could cut off the lip before you fit/mark the grommet, but I actually tried to retain the lip for additional sealing, however with the fins, it just didn't want to fit) .


Step 5 - Remember how you took not of the orientation of the fins/ cuts in the grommet? Now slide the grommet over the shaft and then over the fins to get it into position. Once there apply a bead of window sealant along the areas where the fins pass through the grommet.



Step 6 - While the silicone is setting up, take out your valve cover grommet (the closed end one) and cut off the tip--remember the smaller the hole, the tighter the seal.


Step 7 - Go over to your car and inspect your sealing grommet, the one you can see from inside the car in the passenger foot well. (If it is hard or cracked, it should be replaced). As long as there is a little elasticity to it, it will be fine. Apply a bead of sealant to the inner/ upper lip of the grommet, or to the outer portion of the valve cover grommet (or both) and slide the valve cover grommet into place. You can feel when it slips into place, the fit is damn near perfect.


View from underneath


Step 8 - Wait. Give your sealant some time to set up (follow the directions on your package to see how long that should take), it doesn't need to be fully cured, but you don't want it to be a liquid that will be squeezed out (I let mine sit overnight, because I had other projects to work on).

Step 9 - Once you are satisfied with the condition of your sealant, simply slide the shaft of the wiper motor as you normally would.

THIS PICTURE IS FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY - DO NOT INSTALL THE SECOND GROMMET BEFORE INSTALLATION.


Step 10 - Enjoy a leak free and modern solution to sealing your wiper motor.



Notes: Some may wish to lightly coat the shaft with a petroleum jelly to aid in ease of install and/or repel any water that may some how come in contact. I did not, and the water hose test revealed no leaks, so to each his own.

Any comments or questions welcome.

And of course check out the build thread 245 "Brick in a box"

Last edited by Sharingan 19; 04-17-2014 at 12:08 AM..
Sharingan 19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2014, 12:08 AM   #2
Sharingan 19
Board Member
 
Sharingan 19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Jacksonville/ Tampa
Default

Pics added.
Sharingan 19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2017, 05:54 PM   #3
crash_artist
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vancouver,WA
Default

Curious about the longevity of this repair.. I am going to reapply the butyl tape to the upper portion, only because i have a roll of it.. The lower grommet on my 90 was leaking around the body side, i took it out, cleaned it and put some Ultra-gray silicone on the groove to seal it, and a thin coat around the 'nose' of the wiper motor to fill the pits in the aluminum casting. I think the main cause of my leak was the vast amount of tree debris in the cowl drains....
crash_artist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2017, 04:00 AM   #4
smeha
Tranny Whisperer
 
smeha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Default

I did this thing about 6 months ago, still awesome.
__________________
1988 Volvo 245DL (Engine: B230F) (Transmission: AW70) (Fuel Injection: LH 2.2) (Brakes: Non-ABS) (Paint code: 189-2) (Dank memes)
My Feedback Thread
Quote:
I've been molested by a guy who happened to own 7 and 9 series
smeha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2017, 07:18 PM   #5
KeizerBrickGuy
Board Member
 
KeizerBrickGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Keizer, OR
Default

Badass. Mods, this should be stickied!
__________________
-Stephen
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87_240TURBO View Post
#mclovethesenuts

-My car: White 1991 244, 308k miles. B230F LH2.4, AW70, R134a retro. Thrush glasspack, anthracite refinished Coronas
-Wife's car: White 1990 244DL, T cam, 190k miles.B230F LH2.4, AW70 w/aux cooler, Duracool AC, purple refinished Virgos, tow hitch, ipd wagon overload springs.
-PSM 2002 Subaru WRX wagon: 120k miles, Perrin TBE, Perrin turbo inlet, intake, and Y-pipe, GrimmSpeed cross pipe.
Rebuilding EJ207 shortblock to swap in this summer.
KeizerBrickGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2017, 10:48 AM   #6
DMFWallace
Ignoramus Bigotus
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Default

Not only is this a great strategy, I suddenly know exactly how my fuel pump relay suddenly became full of water!
__________________
'90 244 - Too many memories to crush
'92 944T - Need any 940 parts?
'96 854 GLT - Not mine any more but still in the family
'92 245 - Winter daily
'97 854R - Summer daily
'06 XC90 V8 - Family Hauler - Wifemobile
Feedback:http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...ght=dmfwallace
DMFWallace is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:10 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.