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1979 242DL - Analog Motoring

My dash temp gauge stays steady at idle and when driving and running through the gears. The only time the dash gauge moved a little was after idling for over 10min on an 85+ degree day. Idle speed picked up a little as EZK was advancing ignition due to temp creeping up.
 
Re: cooling system pressure/venting
-confirmed that I do have a Hepu water pump on the car, unfortunately don’t have a pic of the impeller
-having a pretty consistent cold start miss on cyl #1, clears up after 30sec or so
-car does blow some water drops from the tailpipe on cold starts, however no steam/white smoke (car does not have a cat)
-based on reading some other threads I’m beginning to suspect a failed head gasket :( ...guess I should get one of those blue dye test kits to confirm
 
Looks like my suspicion was correct. I got a block test kit at AutoZone (rent tool, buy fluid for $9) and the blue dye turned yellow. :grrr:

I tested at idle and the fluid stayed blue, but after taking it for a hard drive (frequent WOT and >5k rpm) and testing again, the fluid turned yellow. Temp gauge also started to climb after a few WOT pulls through the gears.

Time to go shopping...I'll likely get an Elring gasket kit and also replace my leaking front crank & aux seals at the same time.

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Based on what I've found, I'm thinking headgasket has a leak around cyl 1. Hard driving at 14psi (16T) aggravates the problem (venting coolant). I may turn down the boost and see if it lessens the issue...headgasket change will probably have to wait until over the winter.
 
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Hit a bit of a snag in my headgasket repair.

I rounded one of the rear head bolts trying to loosen it...:(

All the others came out without too much drama.

What is the best course of action here? Drill off bolt head, remove cylinder head, soak offending bolt with PB Blaster and attempt bolt removal with a pipe wrench?

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Analog motoring, great title! Nothing like reaching across to wind down a window haha. I have a very similar car, 79 242, very close to you in Reading PA. Manual windows, 4 speed, alternator is the only accessory belt. I was gonna go a similar route to you with the engine, but I am an idiot/maniac/idk what and went the LS turbo path. I have been daily driving it though for a few weeks off and on, its still is rocking the 2.1 on megasquirt.
 
2turbotoys said:
Analog motoring, great title! Nothing like reaching across to wind down a window haha. I have a very similar car, 79 242, very close to you in Reading PA. Manual windows, 4 speed, alternator is the only accessory belt. I was gonna go a similar route to you with the engine, but I am an idiot/maniac/idk what and went the LS turbo path. I have been daily driving it though for a few weeks off and on, its still is rocking the 2.1 on megasquirt.
Click to expand...
Howdy local! LS turbo will be sweeet.

Also, if one of the head bolts came out like this, what are the chances of it not stripping the threads in the block when reinstalling? (upper half of the threads are filled with rust)

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*Edit...maybe answered my own question...~1x nominal diameter of threads is max strength.
ref: https://www.fastenal.com/en/78/screw-thread-design
So in my case, the upper threads aren't taking much of the load at all.
 
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oldschoolvolvo said:
Hit a bit of a snag in my headgasket repair.

What is the best course of action here? Drill off bolt head, remove cylinder head, soak offending bolt with PB Blaster and attempt bolt removal with a pipe wrench?
Click to expand...

My time honored method, courtesy of Old Dad, is (1) heat cycles with MAP gas directly on bolt head..... and while hot, hammer impacts to the fastener head. I use a large brass punch to transfer the hammer to the fastener. Watched this method in action now 50+ years...... good luck!
 
Headgasket replacement was a success, also replaced the crank and aux shaft seals. The “rope trick” works well for crank pulley bolt removal and installation.
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Also replaced the aluminum Yoshifab alternator bushings with some rubber ones. The Yoshi bushings were wearing (as others have shown) and the alternator was loose in its bottom bracket and was making a knocking sound at idle. I left the aluminum bushing in the upper adjuster arm b/c there was no play in that one. I used washers on the outsides of the rubber bushings to help prevent deformation.

During the headgasket replacement process I decided to convert it back to n/a. :nomex: The +T was a fun endeavor and I learned a lot, but I want to move on to something else.

Car is currently running well on n/a LH 2.2 & EZ-117K.
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For future reference:
n/a LH 2.2 ECU: 544
n/a EZ-117K: 011
Bosch 2.5 bar FPR (0-280-160-227, Porsche 944 application)

+T parts are for sale here:
http://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=346379
 
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Haha cool, I enjoy mine mostly stock at the moment also, but can't wait to finish my swap. My mind just goes places with "something else", like single turbo 2JZE on nitrous, twin turbo LS, Bugatti Veyron motor in the trunk lol, etc..
 
2turbotoys said:
Haha cool, I enjoy mine mostly stock at the moment also, but can't wait to finish my swap. My mind just goes places with "something else", like single turbo 2JZE on nitrous, twin turbo LS, Bugatti Veyron motor in the trunk lol, etc..
Click to expand...

My mind wanders to similar places. It usually starts with a "basic" ITB setup on the B20, then jumps to a B230FT, then to a SBF/T5, then to a turbo LS, and then to some other car.

Yep, its a problem alright.
 
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