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Kl racing cams.

I run this cam in my 230FT with big valve head and the idle is very rough.
I am not sure if this is only caused by the cam. The block was skimmed 0,4mm and the head 0,2mm which makes about 2,4? retarded cam timing. Am i in need for a adjustable camgear or is that just fine?!
Valve clearance is set to 0,35mm on all Valves.
Otherwise i can confirm the characteristics you stated above.

Regards,
Dennis
Hello Dennis,
It is likely a combination of things. I would raise the idle speed to at least 800(or 900) when warm by adjusting the throttle plate if LH2.4 or idle adjustment screw if LH2.2(block off the idle motor when adjusting). I would then adjust the valve clearance to 0.4mm or just over to give you a little bit more seat time for the valves and re-check.

I don't know what KG suggests setting the valve lash at, but 0.35mm is low enough to contribute to a rougher idle over something that's closer to 0.4mm or 0.45mm which is normal factory spec.. Yes, I know this isn't a factory camshaft, but I still suggest going looser if you want a better idle.

On my H cam in my street car I have the clearances mostly set to 0.5mm/0.020" to help improve the idle quality and torque off idle. It's much more friendly down there at that setting than it is around 0.35mm/0.014" that I use for more performance when I don't care about idle quality and emissions. I also set my idle around 900-1000rpm.

If, after loosening the valve clearances and raising the idle speed you are still unhappy, you could look into getting an adjustable cam gear and playing with the timing. It may or may not have the results you desire, but you can at least better fine tune how the powerband fits your desires.

Before getting the adjustable camshaft gear, it would be good to verify the engine has good and even compression in each cylinder when warm. I would check it after adjusting the valve clearances looser.

I haven't adjusted anything as of right now ECU stock 91 940T with a chip. No compression check has been done.
As mentioned above, I would block off the idle motor and instead of setting the base throttle/idle setting to 500rpm as per Volvo originally stated, set it to at least 800rpm so the engine doesn't rely on the idle motor as much to maintain an idle.

I see that on that KLR T2 camshaft KLRacing does recommend setting the valve lash at 0.35mm which as mentioned above is on the tighter side and will create a more rough idle in general. They also say that it has a decent idle, though. Raise your idle speed, maybe try slightly more valve clearance or at least re-check it now that the engine has been run a bit as things may have seated more if it was a fresh build, and check compression to be sure all is well after that.

-Kyle
 
As mentioned above, I would block off the idle motor and instead of setting the base throttle/idle setting to 500rpm as per Volvo originally stated, set it to at least 800rpm so the engine doesn't rely on the idle motor as much to maintain an idle.

I see that on that KLR T2 camshaft KLRacing does recommend setting the valve lash at 0.35mm which as mentioned above is on the tighter side and will create a more rough idle in general. They also say that it has a decent idle, though. Raise your idle speed, maybe try slightly more valve clearance or at least re-check it now that the engine has been run a bit as things may have seated more if it was a fresh build, and check compression to be sure all is well after that.

-Kyle

Thanks i will try that tomorrow

Tom
 
Well I raised up the idle and reset the idle switch it is better and should not stall now when the electric fan kicks in spal aftermarket.

I just need to drive it once i get the brakes upgraded just got my S60 R rear Brackets yesterday.
 
Hi,

Sorry for using this thread for my questions, but i would appreciate some help very much:

How is the idle behaviour on your cars with the KG2T?
I run this cam in my 230FT with big valve head and the idle is very rough.
I am not sure if this is only caused by the cam. The block was skimmed 0,4mm and the head 0,2mm which makes about 2,4? retarded cam timing. Am i in need for a adjustable camgear or is that just fine?!
Valve clearance is set to 0,35mm on all Valves.
Otherwise i can confirm the characteristics you stated above.

Regards,
Dennis

Hey mate,
I would say that both cars had a noticeable lope but I most definitely wouldn't say they were very rough. In my B23ET I have the clearances set to 0.55mm on the exhaust and 0.50mm on intake. I found this gave it much better off idle torque compared to the 0.35 - 0.40mm I had it set to originally. I also found it helped with cold start idle during warm up. Ive linked some videos of the idles of both the cars that I had which were running the KG2T.

This one was a B230FX+T with a 15G, 3 inch exhaust, 531 head with standard valves and LH2.2: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9DNyTx6rIiRZGNFSXBnZEFLZm8

This one is the B23ET with a 16T, 3 inch exhaust with hater pipe, 405 head with standard valves and LH2.4: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PzdSoM0PYSbtAUSBPHeeus1X6EIMj3-BdQ/view?usp=sharing
 
Okay, thank you for your opinions.

I will also make a video as soon as the car is running again. (waiting for new Turbo)
The valve setting game is starting to get quite expensive. Gone through 3 sets of shims now and one shim is like 5Euros here.

Regards,
Dennis
 
update
I got to drive the car around and it need some cam adjustment curranty it is a dog on low end above 4K it screams i have a bad wastegate Diaphragm so that could be part of the issue.

So if i jump on it it is a dog until 3800-4K then it comes on and i am running 1 Bar and shifts nice and hard and i have run it up to 6K pulls all the way not to sure how far it will pull up to running out of room and speed is up there as well.

i would like to get more low end on this so i will be making some cam timing adjustment to see if it helps.

So This is my setup

530 head ported oversized exhaust KLR T2 Camshaft Yoshi Fab adjustable cam gear

91 exhaust manifold ported

Chinese Gtx35 BB turbo supposed to be .68 hot size need to re-check it is a big turbo my Buddy runs runs these on RB25 and they work very well.

Tial F38 38mm gate knock off bad diaphragm real one on order
Stock AW71 with acumulator mods

Chipped ECU could be part of issue I Have Megasquirt to swap in the future

RS 500 intercooler modded

3" exhaust

I will be doing more cam verification and adjustment today to see what i can do.
 
Certainly verify the cam timing; but conversationally, I am not at all surprised that a GT35 based setup doesn't start to party until 3800rpm.
 
I am not at all surprised that a GT35 based setup doesn't start to party until 3800rpm.

Especially if the wastegate isn't fully shut. Bleeding off the boost before XXX rpm is going to make it feel slower than N/A. Had that issue on my old 940T - WG would hang open slightly and it sounded horrible and didn't boost for **** until about 4k.
 
Especially if the wastegate isn't fully shut. Bleeding off the boost before XXX rpm is going to make it feel slower than N/A. Had that issue on my old 940T - WG would hang open slightly and it sounded horrible and didn't boost for **** until about 4k.

Yes this describes my car curranty SAF under 4K

i pulled the Valve cover and look at the cam it seams not far off compared to the stock head i pulled off.

so i am looking at basic items now to see what i am missing.

rear mounted Dizzy could this be off causing issue this was removed and installed on this head is it possible that the drive slot was cut wrong? i will look up correct settings for this
 
A KG2T cam has 300 degrees of duration. So once you sort out the engine of any issues. You will then enjoy a 3500-7500 rpm powerband.
This is why the rule of thumb is buy the mildest cam that will accomplish what you are looking for. With some adjustment you may get the powerband down to 3000 to 7000 but it's a high duration cam that is made for high rpm performance. Use it in the manner it was designed and you'll be happy.

Not trying to give you a hard time. Just wanted to make sure you knew what you selected. For example a Stage one enem cam has 256 duration and is a 2k to 6k rpm powerband. A stage 2/3 V16 turbo cam has 268
duration and the powerband is 2500-6500rpm. The 300 duration enem cams are upto stage 4 which is a pretty high rpm powerband. 3500-7500 is typical. http://www.turbobricks.com/resources.php?content=camspec

Here is the KG specs
http://www.kgtrimning.org/tuning-special/b23b230b234/camshafts/kg2t.html
 
Last edited:
A KG2T cam has 300 degrees of duration. So once you sort out the engine of any issues. You will then enjoy a 3500-7500 rpm powerband.
This is why the rule of thumb is buy the mildest cam that will accomplish what you are looking for. With some adjustment you may get the powerband down to 3000 to 7000 but it's a high duration cam that is made for high rpm performance. Use it in the manner it was designed and you'll be happy.

Not trying to give you a hard time. Just wanted to make sure you knew what you selected. For example a Stage one enem cam has 256 duration and is a 2k to 6k rpm powerband. A stage 2/3 V16 turbo cam has 268
duration and the powerband is 2500-6500rpm. The 300 duration enem cams are upto stage 4 which is a pretty high rpm powerband. 3500-7500 is typical. http://www.turbobricks.com/resources.php?content=camspec

Here is the KG specs
http://www.kgtrimning.org/tuning-special/b23b230b234/camshafts/kg2t.html

I would agree the cam would be an issue but i didn't think i went that big on the cam
this is the cam i ordered and the box was marked as such.

KLR T2 Suitable for engines with a slightly larger Turbos and increased charge pressure, provides substantial power increase to be such a nice camshaft.
Has good idle and low speed.

The camshafts are ground on new substances (we do not need any old camshaft in exchange)

Dur at driving game 280 degrees
Cam lift 11.3mm
Nock angle 112 degrees
TDC lift about 2.5mm
Valve play 0.35mm
Distributor track on camshaft: Yes
Needed lasch cap: Yes, 2.5mm thick is recommended

TDC lift is indicated by valve play and is set as follows.
Set the engine with the piston in the top position (exhaust gas is closing and suction is about to open).
The intake valve must then open the stated value. The value can be adjusted slightly during test driving for best results. Adjustable cam drive facilitates this optimization

Tip: Make sure that it does not break in the camshaft during assembly / disassembly, then the axial bearing on the rear edge can break, applies to all sharper camshafts

https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/volvo-8v-turbo-kamaxel-klr-t2-2.html


still working on the issues ordered new .63 turbine housing and new wastegate.

verified engine and cam is lined up correctly. Now i will go through everything to make sure it is correct this weekend with all new parts installed.
 
A KL racing cam is a different company thann a KG2T. KL racing and KGtrimning respectively. 280 degrees is still a high rpm cam but should be a bit more tame than the 300 degree duration of the KG2T. For example I am going to be using a turbo version enam V16 which is 268 degrees. With that duration it is already considered a 2500-6500 rpm powerband. So I wouldnt expect a 280 degree cam to come on before 3000rpm.
 
The KG2T is not 300? of duration when measured at the same lift as KL Racing's camshaft being measured as 280?, I expect. The KG2T is not a racing camshaft, either.
 
Update on my end

.63 housing installed and Tial gate and checked the cam and TDC cam set at zero

response is a little better but i think the cam is 2 big for the AW71 with stock converter i will try advancing i tooth but it look like i will be going back to the stock cam until the CD009 swap
 
Update on my end

.63 housing installed and Tial gate and checked the cam and TDC cam set at zero

response is a little better but i think the cam is 2 big for the AW71 with stock converter i will try advancing i tooth but it look like i will be going back to the stock cam until the CD009 swap

The cam isn?t the problem...that turbo on an aw71 with a stock converter....and lh...and a 90+ are
 
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