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Old 05-02-2019, 11:53 AM   #76
shoestring
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Full disclosure, I've forgotten to mention at any point that this car has never used power steering nor has it run a belt-driven fan.
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:08 PM   #77
klr142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoestring View Post
I'll never say that this car "rips", I've had enough stuff that's actually fast to know the difference. It does, however, hold its own against mild turbo cars (13c at .8bar, intake and exhaust mods etc). It is missing that torque surge on acceleration though so we get our asses handed to us coming off corners if we don't have momentum. It will kick the sh*t out of as many 5.0 Mustangs you wanna throw at it.

It's fun nonetheless, knowwhatImean?
It would feel more like it rips if you put one of those lumpier cams in it with less power before 5,000rpm and they carry it out past 6,000rpm, though! But that's just a feeling and doesn't necessarily make the car faster in an endurance racing aspect with an M47 for spread apart gearing(let alone the fuel mileage hit).

Speaking of which, what rear end gear do you guys have and what size tires are you running? We have a 4.56:1 rear in the General Leif, so the gearing is pretty decent actually(except 1st, of course!). Now we have the 2.95 1st gearset T5 transmission with the Sebring .8 fifth gear, so it's even better. Can't wait for tomorrow! Hopefully the tune can be sorted out quickly enough.
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:21 PM   #78
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4.10. 205/50r16.
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:28 PM   #79
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Nice. We're on 205/50-15, 225/45-15, 225/50-15 or 225/45-16 depending on the day, wheel, how old the tires are/what's lying around, track, etc... Haha
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Originally Posted by redblockpowered View Post
I've got the dyno files here, and attempted to Photoshop a nice little overlay to get a clearer comparison. H cam is the more faded of the two.
Do you have the ability to change the scaling of the AFR side so we can see better what it's actually running? Say, having it cap out at like 18:1 or something instead of almost 29? The difference between the camshafts doesn't look like too much(your dad says the tuning wasn't changed and it was direct back to back comparison with the same valve clearances).
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Old 05-02-2019, 04:18 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Do you have the ability to change the scaling of the AFR side so we can see better what it's actually running? Say, having it cap out at like 18:1 or something instead of almost 29? The difference between the camshafts doesn't look like too much(your dad says the tuning wasn't changed and it was direct back to back comparison with the same valve clearances).
On these we do not, they're just .pdfs from the dyno shop. All previous runs on the Dynojet we do, and that was up to the 140hp iteration. You have WinPep?
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Old 05-02-2019, 05:19 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by shoestring View Post
On these we do not, they're just .pdfs from the dyno shop. All previous runs on the Dynojet we do, and that was up to the 140hp iteration. You have WinPep?
I do and would love to have your files to look at and compare with mine for fun! I'll PM you.
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:30 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Is that one of the engines that came with the VX(3?) cam and 531 head to begin with? If so, it’s supposedly over 100whp stock. Heh.

Do you have a wideband? What’s your idle rpm and how lumpy is it? Do you have emissions testing? Are you running fuel and or ignition chips or is the tuning completely stock? How did you get to 11:1 compression(how much shaved and anything else done?) and has the bottom end been touched or all original?
Sorry - you got metric'd, I was thinking in kW. So 100 kW is the alleged stock power from this wagon, I'm not sure if that is the crank or wheel figure, but I don't think I've ever chucked a stock Volvo on the dyno and seen numbers meet the advertised numbers. I expect the dyno to report over 100kW at the wheels, and my goal ultimately is to get it around 150kW.
  • No wideband presently
  • Emissions testing - not as part of annual registration inspection, but you can get defected for it. The new exhaust will have a sports cat and probably a single turbo muffler
  • It did come with a VX cam, which is stored oiled and wrapped for possible future use in something else
  • The idle RPM is stock (750?), it is well lumpy, it sounds angry as all hell
  • It is running chips on both ECU and EZK
  • Bottom end is original save for lightened underdrive pulley
  • Got to 11:1 by shaving the head. Stock head gasket. The machine shop helped me with this as IMO it's non-trivial to calculate the exact CR yourself, as you need to measure the deck height and head chamber volume fairly accurately. If you just want to bump CR, I think others on here will confirm that you can just take 20-40 thou off the head and slap it on and you'll be fine. Decking the block for more squish is also great, or you can run a Cometic HG and get a similar result.

The only negative is between about 1500 and 2500rpm I get what we currently think is a resonance in the intake, which leads to a big flat spot in the power curve. I've tried messing with cam timing to no avail. I'm hoping opening up the exhaust might help alleviate this, I'll know in another month or two when I finally have time to fab
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:53 PM   #83
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General Leif was strapped down yesterday and did 157whp and 160wtrq at KO Racing!

https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=349780
Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Case in point, my old turbo car made 160whp on a dynojet (shaved head, IPD turbo cam, 13c @15psi, 2.5" exhaust), but that was with no coast down to account for drivetrain losses. It's a true indicator of what is actually making it to the tire.
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Dynojet at KO Racing. I don't have the chart anymore.

If you assume ~20% drivetrain losses, the crank HP would be ~ 190-200. Which seems about right.
WEAK! I should ask Kris for your dyno run files to add to my folder of various runs.
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Old 07-25-2019, 04:17 AM   #84
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hillo
no idea what power it actually made but one of the most fun engine setups I had in my 242 was a b230 with a 16v head+pistons. dizzy+ignitionbox from lh2.2 (the dizzy shorted to fit under the thermostat housing and a cap from a SAAB) with weber/fajs 45 DCOE. Should had 48 but gotta use what I have.

made some imported american cars sweat when i finally got the carbs somewhat tuned in. spent alot of money on eeeeh "bestyckning".
The head was very ported (not well) and very shaved. it also had cams from folkraceshop.se
I bought the engine from some strange fellow in a neighboring eeeeeeeeh "county" (län).

in my current 745 I swapped in a b234f, made "temporary" engine mounts that have been alright. only remove the balanceshaft-things. I tried to make it work with the Regina system in the car but I had a lot of trouble with idle. WOT was fine.
Now running with ms2. It's at least more fun than the original b230f that was in the car from the start.
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Old 07-25-2019, 10:42 PM   #85
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Here is the 8v build I'm working on - many smiles per mile.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=349476

I'd say just build a 8v it'll be cheaper, 150whp you can get just with a done up head and tune. If you really want POWERRRRR, get a folk racing cam from Sweden with valve springs and revvvvv the thing like a 16v.

Also, Drifts and Lifts on youtube has a 170whp 8v 740 like nobody's business.
https://youtu.be/soxSaJNMq_E?t=215
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