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Old 12-21-2010, 04:03 AM   #1
volvogeek
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Default 240 Keyless Entry

This is an extremely easy job to undertake on the 240, every wire is color-coded for clarity and *should* match up to your alarm brain. This guide specifically references the Audiovox Prestige AA925 BGAAL10R Brain, which can be found on eBay for ~$35 shipped. Your brain may differ, please reference your instruction manual regarding wiring.

Door Solenoid:
First order of business is installing a solenoid into the drivers' door. You don't want a remote that opens up EVERY door except the drivers' door, do you? I didn't think so. Pick up a solenoid from any other door/hatch from another 240. The bracket on the solenoid flips around so that the same unit can be used in ANY location.

Here's what it looks like installed:


Next up is making the linkage so that the solenoid works the locks. I used a wire hangar for this, but if you're at the junkyard scavenging solenoids, grab the rods as well. I had a solenoid from a tailgate but no link rods, so I had to improvise. When you're done, it should look something like this:


Because I didn't have the stock linkage rods, I had to drill a hole in this piece:


This works fairly well but I'd like to strongly reiterate that it would be MUCH easier to use the linkage rods that volvo supplies. EDIT: the front passenger door linkage works great here. It's not perfect but it's MUCH easier than drilling and bending coat hangar rod.

Next up, wiring. The door solenoid has blue and yellow wires. If you look at the wires coming from the key and lock pin switches, they are ALSO blue and yellow. However, you can't use these because they are signal lines to the relays, not the actuation lines. So you'll have to extend the wires from the solenoid into the cabin and behind the middle heater vents (where the relays reside).

I ran mine along the inner door harness and fished them through above the fuse box, like so:



Wiring the Alarm Brain:
The Volvo 240 is a negative (-) pulse lock and unlock system. The relays for the door locks are located behind the center console, up behind where the coin tray would be and almost right underneath the vents. #188 and #189 in this picture:


After you fish those out, find the wire sheath that brings a green and a red wire to the relays. These are your signal wires. Connect your negative unlock pulse wire to the green, and the negative lock pulse wire to the red. IMPORTANT! If you connect your signal wires from your brain to the WRONG wires, you WILL FRY YOUR ALARM BRAIN. See wiring diagram below - there's another green wire that supplies 12v constant to both relays, do NOT connect your signal lines to this wire!

Then find the blue and yellow wires going from the relays into another sheath and connect the wires from your drivers' door solenoid.

Here's a modified greenbook diagram:


After everything is connected, you should be done! Wasn't that easy?!? For less than $50 including the JY cost of the solenoid/rods and alarm, you now have keyless entry. Enjoy!

Last edited by volvogeek; 04-09-2012 at 05:30 PM.. Reason: update on linkage
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:50 AM   #2
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Hi Richard

I'm about to do this in my 744. I'll post back with a scan of the wiring diagram for the 744 door lock relay.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:19 PM   #3
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Great easy modification. It's on my list . . . as soon as I get it running.

I assume that this unit also requires the remote transmitters. So about $70-80 for all door lock/unlock system. Not bad.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
Great easy modification. It's on my list . . . as soon as I get it running.

I assume that this unit also requires the remote transmitters. So about $70-80 for all door lock/unlock system. Not bad.
You can buy a keyless entry kit from autozone for about $50, includes the module, 2 remotes, and pretty detailed instructions if you care to add an immobilizer/remote trunk release.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:21 PM   #5
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Yeah, if your car has the actuators to open the trunk, it can be made to work that too. Just tie the unlock/lock wires just like the diagram shows.

I tested this in my 744 and it works fantastic, no relays needed to open the locks. Just need to buy an actuator, and tie that back into the factory relay circuit and she'll be rollin.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:36 PM   #6
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GREAT thread, easy to read and understand. Really thinking about doing this know that I have my 240 back on the road, finally got around to fixing my power locks after six years of owning the car.

Thanks for posting, surprised this thread didn't get more interest back last year when it was written!
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:05 PM   #7
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Good info. I'm using this info to install the solenoid on mine at the moment.............
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:47 PM   #8
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Default Where are my relays?

Nevermind! Found them. Small and behind the mounting bracket but they were there.

I am doing this remote lock conversion and do not find the relays as indicated in the first post. Mine is an '82 Diesel (245). My dash is as pictured but no relays as indicated. I have never found a wiring book for the '82 assuming that the one for the '81 has always worked.

Anyone know where my relays are? I guess I could connect the battery back up and listen for relay operation but with three actuators operating at the same time and the fact that I don't hear as good as I once did might make that a little difficult.

Great idea though! I didn't want an alarm system and therefore found a remote unit with two fobs and the receiver control box for $12 and got the Volvo lock activator from RedwoodChair for $20. It came with the lock connection rod and cutting it off to match the driver door system with the knob switch took about 5 minutes, most of which was staring at it to make sure I cut it right the first time.

A fully wired remote door lock system for $32. Such a deal!

Last edited by TestPoint; 09-19-2013 at 10:24 AM..
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Old 07-23-2016, 03:52 PM   #9
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Old topic, but i can't find anything about wiring in the indicator lights to a central door locking system. I just installed mine using this tutorial (it was really easy) but my receiver unit also has a wire for the indiciators. They flash once on locking, twice on unlocking. What is the easiest way to connect those? I guess the easiest way is to splice them in right after the indicator relays? But where is this relay? I tries to locate it by listening and it looks like it is somewhere near the pedals, but I am not sure..
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:18 AM   #10
Steve Zissou
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If your alarm brain already has a relay on board for flashing the parking lights (as most do- it will show +12v output), then you just identify the parking lamp circuit for your year and model and make a single connection.

Should take you 5 minutes with a test light.
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Old 07-26-2016, 09:44 AM   #11
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Indeed. The alarm brain does have a relay and it was just a matter of wiring this to the indicator circuit. After looking at the diagrams I figured the easiest way was to splice them in right after the emergency light switch. If you take this out of the dash and remove the plug on the back the pins are numbered. The ones that say "L" and "R" correspond to the lift and right indicator circuits (what a surprise!). Splice the wires in behind the plug and solder the wires from the brain to them and you're done. Easy!
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