240 '92 245: ECU coolant temp installation torque specs

Anyone have any info on this? My Bentley doesn't have the torque specs, neither wet nor dry, and I don't want to bugger up the threads in the head. Thanks, the Old Fart.

BTW, I've been out of the loop for about a year due to various problems. Right now I'm trying to do a Stage 0 and I don't have much time to go searching myself so help would be appreciated.

Get it snug and then turn it a little more. It should have a seal washer that you can feel crush down as you torque it.

Just a note on the copper crush washer, if you don't use a new/Volvo one with the correct thickness each time, the clocking of the connector will be in a position that can make the wiring harness connector a PITA to get on correctly. BT, DT

tight enough not to leak.

vvpete said:

Just a note on the copper crush washer, if you don't use a new/Volvo one with the correct thickness each time, the clocking of the connector will be in a position that can make the wiring harness connector a PITA to get on correctly. BT, DT

Click to expand...

Yeah, I've thought of that so thanks. I'll have a look to see if I have washer that fits, and if not I'll run into town and get a few. As for the clocking for the sensor, I've already accumulated lots of blood et al just getting at that sucker so I'm aware of harness connector issue.

On to torquing the sensor. Over the years I've my fair share of threading something into aluminum and buggering up the threads and that's why I asked about torquing the sensor. The threads are M12 x 1.75, but my chart gave me 49 lb/ft wet, which seemed way too high for aluminum, so I had a look at the specs for spark plugs. The specs for these were 15 - 22 lb/ft wet or 177 - 266 inch/lb wet so I thought that might work. I usually torque stuff in steps, so on my first time I tried a step at 85 inch/lb wet and stopped there because I didn't like where the sensor connector was heading re clocking, and that's why I posted the request to see if there was a torque spec for the sensor.

Oh yeah, something I learned for dropping the coolant level without having to pull the lower hose and spray (i.e. loose) Volvo's expensive coolant. The first step is to siphon all the coolant you can from the reservoir then undo the strap and raise it to a level above the top of the rad. With the reservoir raised up, remove the top end of the medium sized hose that goes to the middle of the rad, and with that hose still held high, put the top of that hose into a clean empty coolant jug, then lower it to get the coolant to flow. You may have to periodically raise and lower as sometimes there may be air pockets, but you'll get enough in the jug that you won't loose coolant when you remove the sensor. It worked for me and I lost only a few drops of coolant.

Tightbutdon'tbreakit ft-lbs.

Also, make sure the deep socket is deep enough to clear end of sensor, if it's too close to end of connector it will twist the connector free of the nut but remain still connected to metal nut/sensor, spins in place. Does this make sense? Ask me how I know...