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Lining up a flywheel on an 89 740

V

volvo74xero

New member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Location
Wagga Wagga, Australia
Any good methods to work out the exact position to put the flywheel on an 89 740 with the crank angle sensor on the bell housing? I foolishly took it off without marking it...(facepalm i know)
Do i get the engine at TDC for piston one and then line up the gap (space without the windows) on the fly wheel with the sensor or...?
Please help if you can. hoping to do this on the weekend.
 
volvo74xero said:
Any good methods to work out the exact position to put the flywheel on an 89 740 with the crank angle sensor on the bell housing? I foolishly took it off without marking it...(facepalm i know)
Do i get the engine at TDC for piston one and then line up the gap (space without the windows) on the fly wheel with the sensor or...?
Please help if you can. hoping to do this on the weekend.
Click to expand...

Yes that is correct , but the solid area will line up with the starter hole...........why post this question in performance & suspension?
 
Apologise for the wrong forum issue.
By starter hole you mean the hole that goes straight to the strart motor through the bell housing? sorry to be asking rather simple questions but i dont want to get it wrong :/
Thanks for the help
 
Thank you! Doesnt seem that complicated, compared to what seems to be the general idea, which is that its very very bad not to mark the correct position before you take it off. It would help, but its pretty simple to get back on correctly it seems.
 
volvo74xero said:
Thank you! Doesnt seem that complicated, compared to what seems to be the general idea, which is that its very very bad not to mark the correct position before you take it off. It would help, but its pretty simple to get back on correctly it seems.
Click to expand...

it's like 90* from the sensor...go figure....NB: Volvo say USE NEW FLYWHEEL BOLTS

by the way...I managed to get a flywheel off and (as you discovered) I got it wrong the
first time...you'd be SURPRISED at just how fast you can get the trans off under a
"full head of steam" and being TOTALLY P'Od that you *knew when it didn't start*
EXACTLY what you had done....:oops:
 
volvo74xero said:
90 degrees righto.
haha i can imagine under a full head of steam for sure. Will attempt to not get it wrong the first time.
New bolts...necassary?
Click to expand...

TP30871/1 (Groupe 21 *ENGINE*) B200/B230 for the 700 series cars...

page * 74 * of the document: "REPLACE FLYWHEEL / FLEXPLATE BOLTS..."

*IF* you've an Automajik trans and don't plan to run a gazillion horsies thru it
you *might could get away* w/o new bolts...ME?? I'd swap'em out fer NEW'uns...
standard trans...*ALWAYS NEW BOLTS* ....your call :nod:
 
Volvo244GLE said:
Eh, I have done dozens of flywheels/flexplates and always reused the bolts, never been an issue yet :x:
Click to expand...


*LUCK...thy handle be "Volvo244GLE" * :nod:
*note* that I closed with: "YER CALL".....if you're ever stateside I'll
introduce you to my buddy Floyd (aka *WHEELS*)....been in a wheel
chair since the early 1960's when the flywheel on his SBC scattered
and did his lower legs in...after I saw *THAT* particularly gruesome
example of just how energetic a flywheel can be when it fractures due
to bolt fatigue allowing the "holes to wallow out".... NEW STUFF for me...
as always...*YER CALL*... :nod:
 
All worked easily. #1 piston at TDC, line up the 'windowless' portion of the flywheel with the starter, or as close as we could to it (wasnt directly in the middle of the starter hole) and it started straight up, once we figured out that we needed to put the car in 'park' ie plug the auto gear lever in and put it in park. Fortunately the manual comes with the wiring already done to bypass the system, although its pretty simple to do anyway.

thanks again for the help.
Also found that the head, being a 16v, and the master cylinder touch. Plan is to space the engine mount out with about 10-12mm of metal plate on the right hand side. any other solutions?
 
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