Lower control arm extension for 240

DrZiplok · 09-25-2018, 02:16 AM

After prototyping these (very roughly) in hand-cut and drilled 1/2" steel, I figured I'd get a couple machined up.

Uses a box of Dorman 610-378 wheel studs and corresponding M12x1.25 nuts, plus a suitable bolt from e.g. the set supplied with a new balljoint. A longer tie rod is required; we're using 2000 Ford Focus rods, but others have noted that 940 rods are also suitable.

-3° camber on otherwise stock struts.

Now, it's probable that steel is overkill for this application, but I didn't want to get them made in Aluminium and then discover the hard way that it wasn't up to it...

Happy to share the eMachineShop design file / DXF for anyone that's interested, though in low volume they were not particularly cheap.

MSGGrunt · 09-25-2018, 07:04 AM

Pardon my ignorance, but is this what I would need if I was LIFTING my wagon to bring the front alignment back within spec? My assumption being that my 2" lift on coil-overs will effectively "shorten" the distance from the control arm pivot point on the frame to the outer end of the control arm balljoint mount.

What is "not particularly cheap" if you don't mind sharing?

I am interested in the file. msgdhorn@yahoo.com

Hen · 09-25-2018, 07:27 AM

Good thinking to use wheel studs to secure them. I did something very similar, but used countersunk bolts and tack welded them in place. It meant that I could start with relatively cheap laser cut blanks then hand finish them. I also angled the balljoint slightly forward to gain more caster.

It worked, but form memory the steering arm/tie rod/something ended up very close to the nuts used on top of the control arm. And I reckon if I were to do it again I'd strongly consider just chopping two sets of arms and rewelding them to make an extended set.

blkaplan · 09-25-2018, 10:55 AM

Those look nice, better to be sure and reinforce the flimsy factory arms if you will be extending them.

culberro · 09-25-2018, 12:07 PM

Pretty neat, and thanks for sharing the file! And definitely reinforce the stock arms.

I thought about doing that, but then went with these for the "easy" approach: https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...-special-.html
25mm wider per side, and the ball joint is moved forward 15mm for added caster.

J_Jones · 09-25-2018, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by culberro

Pretty neat, and thanks for sharing the file! And definitely reinforce the stock arms.

I thought about doing that, but then went with these for the "easy" approach: https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...-special-.html
25mm wider per side, and the ball joint is moved forward 15mm for added caster.

Nice find, will order.

culberro · 09-25-2018, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J_Jones

Nice find, will order.

If getting rowdy, definitely plate the tops. I already bent one drifting, but it was a big hit.

blkaplan · 09-25-2018, 01:29 PM

Hopefully at some point I will release my adjustable control arms. Got some new equipment in the pipeline which should speed up my productivity.

John V, outside agitator · 09-25-2018, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J_Jones

Nice find, will order.

Lagerstatus: Tillfälligt slut

Artnr: 07088
Hyllplats:I5-1F2

Temporarily slut.

DrZiplok · 09-25-2018, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkaplan

Hopefully at some point I will release my adjustable control arms. Got some new equipment in the pipeline which should speed up my productivity.

As a stopgap, something like this would be a great stocking stuffer. Perhaps pair it with some precut LCA boxing plates (or a piece of cardboard in the correct shape, since cutting them isn't hard...) ?

klr142 · 05-20-2019, 05:48 PM

Cool stuff. I have a spare set of arms for me to extend one day...

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrZiplok

precut LCA boxing plates

Yoshifab has some: https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-240...ox-plates.html

hamfisted idiot · 03-23-2020, 12:50 PM

I would like this file if it is still available. I have a machinists ready to go. Thanks drZiplok!

towerymt · 03-23-2020, 10:55 PM

Here are some pics from our old lemons car. Our spacers were made from sheet steel cut/welded up. The control arm failed first. Camber was significant, probably around -3 degrees or more when using stock upper strut mounts.

The trouble with the pre-cut plates for enclosing the underside of the control arm is that they interfered with the bolts for the spacers, so someone cut some of it away. We would have been better off to reinforce the top side of the control arm, and then re-box the underside.

The inner tie-rod was lengthened with a section cut from another tie rod.

Harlard · 03-24-2020, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by culberro

Pretty neat, and thanks for sharing the file! And definitely reinforce the stock arms.

I thought about doing that, but then went with these for the "easy" approach: https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...-special-.html
25mm wider per side, and the ball joint is moved forward 15mm for added caster.

For added win, the BNE QSRCs in the middle setting will work with unmodified inner tie rods and the ackermann on the v1 units will be a lit better than with stock arms.

Canadan · 06-21-2020, 10:15 PM

Does anyone still have the file for this?

DrZiplok · 07-18-2020, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canadan

Does anyone still have the file for this?

I do 8)

PM me an email address and I'll shoot you the files. Haven't been around much, sorry.

09-25-2018, 02:16 AM	#1
DrZiplok Board Member Join Date: Nov 2015	Lower control arm extension for 240 After prototyping these (very roughly) in hand-cut and drilled 1/2" steel, I figured I'd get a couple machined up. Uses a box of Dorman 610-378 wheel studs and corresponding M12x1.25 nuts, plus a suitable bolt from e.g. the set supplied with a new balljoint. A longer tie rod is required; we're using 2000 Ford Focus rods, but others have noted that 940 rods are also suitable. -3° camber on otherwise stock struts. Now, it's probable that steel is overkill for this application, but I didn't want to get them made in Aluminium and then discover the hard way that it wasn't up to it... Happy to share the eMachineShop design file / DXF for anyone that's interested, though in low volume they were not particularly cheap. Last edited by DrZiplok; 07-19-2020 at 01:53 PM..

09-25-2018, 07:04 AM	#2
MSGGrunt Board Member Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Western Massachusetts	Pardon my ignorance, but is this what I would need if I was LIFTING my wagon to bring the front alignment back within spec? My assumption being that my 2" lift on coil-overs will effectively "shorten" the distance from the control arm pivot point on the frame to the outer end of the control arm balljoint mount. What is "not particularly cheap" if you don't mind sharing? I am interested in the file. msgdhorn@yahoo.com __________________ 1969 Triumph TR6 1986 BMW E30 325E, Auto, 2-door coupe. 1987 Volvo 240 Wagon Auto 1989 BMW E30 325iX 5-speed 1990 Volvo DL 240 Auto 1991 Volvo 240 Auto 1992 Volvo 240 GL Auto 1993 Volvo 245 5-speed. 2015 Volvo XC60 Platinum

09-25-2018, 07:27 AM	#3
Hen Board Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Melbourne, Australia	Good thinking to use wheel studs to secure them. I did something very similar, but used countersunk bolts and tack welded them in place. It meant that I could start with relatively cheap laser cut blanks then hand finish them. I also angled the balljoint slightly forward to gain more caster. It worked, but form memory the steering arm/tie rod/something ended up very close to the nuts used on top of the control arm. And I reckon if I were to do it again I'd strongly consider just chopping two sets of arms and rewelding them to make an extended set. __________________ 1990 240 driftwagon - B230FX+T - M90 - other fun stuff. Now sold unfortunately.

09-25-2018, 12:07 PM	#5
culberro Ronald Culberbone III Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Portland, OR	Pretty neat, and thanks for sharing the file! And definitely reinforce the stock arms. I thought about doing that, but then went with these for the "easy" approach: https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...-special-.html 25mm wider per side, and the ball joint is moved forward 15mm for added caster. __________________ Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid.

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09-25-2018, 01:29 PM	#8
blkaplan 50 shades of beige Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Rockville, MD	Hopefully at some point I will release my adjustable control arms. Got some new equipment in the pipeline which should speed up my productivity.

03-23-2020, 12:50 PM	#12
hamfisted idiot Newbie Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: New Mexico	I would like this file if it is still available. I have a machinists ready to go. Thanks drZiplok!

03-23-2020, 10:55 PM	#13
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	Here are some pics from our old lemons car. Our spacers were made from sheet steel cut/welded up. The control arm failed first. Camber was significant, probably around -3 degrees or more when using stock upper strut mounts. The trouble with the pre-cut plates for enclosing the underside of the control arm is that they interfered with the bolts for the spacers, so someone cut some of it away. We would have been better off to reinforce the top side of the control arm, and then re-box the underside. The inner tie-rod was lengthened with a section cut from another tie rod.

06-21-2020, 10:15 PM	#15
Canadan Board Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Oregon	Does anyone still have the file for this?