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#1 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
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![]() After prototyping these (very roughly) in hand-cut and drilled 1/2" steel, I figured I'd get a couple machined up.
![]() Uses a box of Dorman 610-378 wheel studs and corresponding M12x1.25 nuts, plus a suitable bolt from e.g. the set supplied with a new balljoint. A longer tie rod is required; we're using 2000 Ford Focus rods, but others have noted that 940 rods are also suitable. -3° camber on otherwise stock struts. Now, it's probable that steel is overkill for this application, but I didn't want to get them made in Aluminium and then discover the hard way that it wasn't up to it... Happy to share the eMachineShop design file / DXF for anyone that's interested, though in low volume they were not particularly cheap. Last edited by DrZiplok; 07-19-2020 at 01:53 PM.. |
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#2 |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Western Massachusetts
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![]() Pardon my ignorance, but is this what I would need if I was LIFTING my wagon to bring the front alignment back within spec? My assumption being that my 2" lift on coil-overs will effectively "shorten" the distance from the control arm pivot point on the frame to the outer end of the control arm balljoint mount.
What is "not particularly cheap" if you don't mind sharing? I am interested in the file. msgdhorn@yahoo.com
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1969 Triumph TR6 1986 BMW E30 325E, Auto, 2-door coupe. 1987 Volvo 240 Wagon Auto 1989 BMW E30 325iX 5-speed 1990 Volvo DL 240 Auto 1991 Volvo 240 Auto 1992 Volvo 240 GL Auto 1993 Volvo 245 5-speed. 2015 Volvo XC60 Platinum |
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#3 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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![]() Good thinking to use wheel studs to secure them. I did something very similar, but used countersunk bolts and tack welded them in place. It meant that I could start with relatively cheap laser cut blanks then hand finish them. I also angled the balljoint slightly forward to gain more caster.
It worked, but form memory the steering arm/tie rod/something ended up very close to the nuts used on top of the control arm. And I reckon if I were to do it again I'd strongly consider just chopping two sets of arms and rewelding them to make an extended set.
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1990 240 driftwagon - B230FX+T - M90 - other fun stuff. Now sold unfortunately. |
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#4 |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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![]() Those look nice, better to be sure and reinforce the flimsy factory arms if you will be extending them.
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#5 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() Pretty neat, and thanks for sharing the file! And definitely reinforce the stock arms.
I thought about doing that, but then went with these for the "easy" approach: https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...-special-.html 25mm wider per side, and the ball joint is moved forward 15mm for added caster.
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Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid. |
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#6 | |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Lincolnton, NC
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#7 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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#8 |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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![]() Hopefully at some point I will release my adjustable control arms. Got some new equipment in the pipeline which should speed up my productivity.
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#9 |
Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sleezattle, WA, USA
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![]() Lagerstatus: Tillfälligt slut Artnr: 07088 Hyllplats:I5-1F2 Temporarily slut.
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John Vanlandingham/JVAB Imports Sleezattle WA, USA --> CALL (206) 431-9696<---- www.rallyrace.net/jvab www.rallyanarchy.com Vive le Prole-le-ralliat "When a man tells you that he got rich through hard work, ask him: 'Whose?'" — Don Marquis |
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#10 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
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![]() As a stopgap, something like this would be a great stocking stuffer. Perhaps pair it with some precut LCA boxing plates (or a piece of cardboard in the correct shape, since cutting them isn't hard...) ?
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#11 |
Turbo, what?
Join Date: May 2004
Location: OR
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![]() Cool stuff. I have a spare set of arms for me to extend one day...
Yoshifab has some: https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-240...ox-plates.html
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Kyle - NLMGG: '91 244 NA DD/Track - General Leif: '71 142 Endurance Racecar - The General's FB page - Oregon Volvo Tuners - Died ![]() |
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#12 |
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: New Mexico
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![]() I would like this file if it is still available. I have a machinists ready to go. Thanks drZiplok!
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#13 |
the real Towery
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: VA, USA
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![]() Here are some pics from our old lemons car. Our spacers were made from sheet steel cut/welded up. The control arm failed first. Camber was significant, probably around -3 degrees or more when using stock upper strut mounts.
The trouble with the pre-cut plates for enclosing the underside of the control arm is that they interfered with the bolts for the spacers, so someone cut some of it away. We would have been better off to reinforce the top side of the control arm, and then re-box the underside. ![]() The inner tie-rod was lengthened with a section cut from another tie rod. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#14 | |
Hurlurd?Harland?Bueller?
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: PDX
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#15 |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Oregon
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![]() Does anyone still have the file for this?
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#16 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
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