1988 740 16v?

[JW240]

Nice! Hope the build progresses as wanted in your holiday!
Really interested in the results.

[oldschoolvolvo]

nice fabrication work

[Sjeng]

Thanks for the kind words guys.

What has been done:

- Installed 940 radiator and fan. Fitted 940 fan upside down for clearance with the water pump pulley.
- Made support bracket for the air cleaner
- Installed coolant hoses.
- Made a turbo oil drain. (18mm pipe from turbo, onto braided hose. Drains to stock location)
- Had water pump modified (many thanks to JW240)
- Installed wiring loom and ECU
- Installed fuel pump and new fuel pump wiring
- Installed new fuel lines from tank to engine
- Installed driveshafts and new support bearing

Still needs:

- Fan relay and wiring
- Heat shield for oil filler cap
- Tidy up/clean engine bay and all wiring
- A tune....

A lot of work has been done and I do not have a lot of pics to show for it.
Anyway:




FakeSquirt ECU in glove compartment



Upside down 940 fan:



Made a mount for the bosch coil and welded it to the body. Coolant reservoir is also mounted (further away from the turbine), but this is not shown yet in the pics. Still need to tidy up all the wiring and repaint the valve cover.


Also test fitted my old wheels:



Took these to the coater, they will be dark silver metallic !
Also ordered some 245/40's for the rear.
The steelie idea is put on hold for now, maybe I will change my mind again.

And it runs:



Untuned, the thing already runs well. It already pulls well in low rpm, even with a fixed 10 degrees of timing. Next week I will drain the oil, change filter and start tuning.

One problem though, I need to press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to disengage the clutch, and gear changing is hard. This needs to be addressed as well. No idea yet what the culprit is, pivot point was shimmed and the clutch arm angle looks good.

[Sjeng]

Bled clutch: didn't work.

Realized it had to be the clutch line, as the throwout arm angle is correct.
Stock volvo clutch lines don't mix with stiffer PP's.
Installed this and bled clutch again:



Clutch is rock solid now.
Drove the car. Already drives very well, even with modest timing.
Turbo spools well.
It hits "full boost" at 2600rpm (wg opens at 0.3 bar) .
Already pulls well.

No leaks! I'm very satisfied. Time to start driving and tuning.

[Finnish240]

I have the same s200(g?) and it is maybe going in with my 8 valve. I am excited to see numbers that you will get I am not sure tho if I use it or not, it would be nice to get turbo spooling same week when I press the gaspedal

[Sjeng]

They are very good units, from what I have read. There are a couple of variants, compressor size ranges from 50 to 54mm inducer, and turbine exducer varies between 56 and 65mm. Even the 65mm turbine is said to spool very well. I would certainly try it if I were you.

I have a couple of different turbo's which I might try after this. HX40 16cm with 56mm inducer. Should deliver a lot of power, wonder how it spools on this engine.

[Janspeed]

I just discovered your build thread. Very nice car! Gonna be an awesome ride when it will be finished.

[Finnish240]

Originally Posted by Sjeng

They are very good units, from what I have read. There are a couple of variants, compressor size ranges from 50 to 54mm inducer, and turbine exducer varies between 56 and 65mm. Even the 65mm turbine is said to spool very well. I would certainly try it if I were you.

I have a couple of different turbo's which I might try after this. HX40 16cm with 56mm inducer. Should deliver a lot of power, wonder how it spools on this engine.

Hx40 is a common used unit in Finland. S200sxe turbos have "lots of" variants with their turbine housings, it would be nice to have info if the turbine housings would fit to these work machine units

[Sjeng]

Thanks Janspeed.

Originally Posted by Finnish240

Hx40 is a common used unit in Finland. S200sxe turbos have "lots of" variants with their turbine housings, it would be nice to have info if the turbine housings would fit to these work machine units

Yes, this part number came from a volvo/deutz excavator. Turbine housing looks nice for our purposes: (still will give the HX40 a try though)

Part No:

12709880017

Angle α (Compressor Housing): 21°
Angle ß (Turbine Housing): 356°
Back Plate: 167744 (166537)(1253200300)(304020003)
Bearing Housing: 56201500005
CHRA: 12707100007 (1270-710-0007)
Compressor Wheel: 10771232001 (Milled Aluminum)(Ind. 54.61 mm, Exd. 78.61 mm, 7+7 Blades, Super Back)
Heat Shield: 167997
Repair Kit: 318383 (318394)
Turbine Housing A/R: 0.76
Turbine Wheel: 168431 (Ind. 69 mm, Exd. 55.9 mm, 11 Blades)

I have been driving the car for the last few days, all is well.
Just some lifter tick on cold oil.

Got my wheels back from the coater and had the tires fitted.
245/40 in the rear and 225/45 in the front, Vredestein tires.
Payed a bit with the shock settings, handling is quite good, although a little tail happy.
Might delete the rear sway bar.

Pictures suck, as I have the cheapest, oil stained phone you can imagine.
Will try to get some decent pics, these don't do the car justice.



Also, I have some more electrical work to do. Have to switch the fan relay using a 5V ECU output, so I will use a transistor circuit for that.
In addition, driving without tacho sucks, so I made this: (yet to be tested)




Next up: finish electrical work and install 302mm front brakes.

[Swedbrick]

Nice work! Also running the Vredestein ultracs?

As for the swaybar, you could try getting a stiffer front 25mm ipd, I'm assuming you're at 19mm in the back

[Sjeng]

Originally Posted by Swedbrick

Nice work! Also running the Vredestein ultracs?

As for the swaybar, you could try getting a stiffer front 25mm ipd, I'm assuming you're at 19mm in the back

Indeed, Ultracs, good value for money. Might delete the rear swaybar, as it is already quite stiff.

Update:

I have been driving the car to work for a couple of days, things were going well and the car was driving well already, although I was still taking it easy.

One day I parked it at work, and 30 minutes later I get called by the security:

"Sir do you own a white Volvo?"
That is correct.
"You better get to the parking lot, your car is on fire. Fire department and cops are already there"

I went outside expecting the worst, but the damage is not that bad.

The oil filler cap caught fire because it is next to the turbo, and it ignited the bonnet insulation in the process. This started smoking and set of the security guys at work.

The fire guys ripped out the grill (snapping off the headlight clips), opened the hood, and started spraying powder and then water onto the engine.

They also disconnected the battery and loosened the alternator (?).

After work, I reconnected the battery, slapped aluminium foil around the filler cap, started the car and drove home.

Anyway:




The black marks on the bonnet can be easily cleaned, already tried.
Also, I made a heatshield between turbine and valve cover.
Please learn from my mistakes, I thought it "would probably be fine."
You do not want to risk your car or worse.

After the incident, I drove home with zero issues.
However, after starting it again it was running like crap!
Turns out it cylinders 2 and 3 were not firing.
Tested the ignition signal coming from ECU: everything OK.
Plug wires: OK.
Then I wanted to check the wiring going to the coil and found this:



This was a new connector, so the water probably caused this.
Cleaned it, still no spark at 2&3.

Then I got suspicious that I fried ANOTHER ignition module.
I tested the module, and the 2&3 channel is dead.

How does this guy keep frying ignition modules, do you ask?
Don't do this:



There are 2 notches on the module which cause a gap between heat shield and module. Oops.

New module ordered today.

On the up side:

- Cleaned/de-rusted the 302mm calipers. Next up: Painting.
- Idle control is working
- Fan is controlled by the ECU (used a 2N2222 to let MS fire the fan relay)

To be continued.

[Sjeng]

Originally Posted by Sjeng

Thanks for the kind words guys.



Still needs:

- Fan relay and wiring
- Heat shield for oil filler cap
- Tidy up/clean engine bay and all wiring
- A tune....

Oops.

[JW240]

Sucks but happens. Happy the damage is limited. Might want to get the old style B23 steel cap too? Might have one laying around still.

As you know, similar close calls on my side with catch can cola bottles freezing shut and engines spewing oil on hot turbo's, smoke everywhere, would have been flames if I hadn't stopped.

The power stage consumption of this car is shocking. Assume you used thermo conducting paste between the alu heat sink and the power stage itself. Like discussed, the combo of this 2x2 coil and power stage is good, the dwell time is what is to be expected, ecu and power stage are compatible and pullup OK. Strange!

Anyways. Looking good, only small things easily fixed and you're back to boosting.

[MadDog_945]

so, you're telling me my wobbly clutch is my new installed oem clutch hose which cost double a steelflex would have cost.. !??

Originally Posted by Sjeng

Bled clutch: didn't work.

Realized it had to be the clutch line, as the throwout arm angle is correct.
Stock volvo clutch lines don't mix with stiffer PP's.
Installed this and bled clutch again:



Clutch is rock solid now.
Drove the car. Already drives very well, even with modest timing.
Turbo spools well.
It hits "full boost" at 2600rpm (wg opens at 0.3 bar) .
Already pulls well.

No leaks! I'm very satisfied. Time to start driving and tuning.

[Vol242vo]

Thank god those security guards noticed this smoke and notified you, could have been a lot worse. Really nice fabrication skills, hope you get everything ironed out.

[Sjeng]

Originally Posted by JW240

S
The power stage consumption of this car is shocking. Assume you used thermo conducting paste between the alu heat sink and the power stage itself. Like discussed, the combo of this 2x2 coil and power stage is good, the dwell time is what is to be expected, ecu and power stage are compatible and pullup OK. Strange!

Anyways. Looking good, only small things easily fixed and you're back to boosting.

Just checked again:

Nominal dwell is 3.1ms at 14V, voltage correction is just like in the Bosch documentation. This should charge the coil to between 7 and 8 Amps, which does not seem excessive to me. I can always reduce it when I fry the next module. Let's hope it's not necessary.

Originally Posted by MadDog_945

so, you're telling me my wobbly clutch is my new installed oem clutch hose which cost double a steelflex would have cost.. !??

Feel the hose while your friend presses the clutch pedal. I could feel the (used and old) hose physically expanding. At first I thought I didn't bleed enough because it would not disengage, but this was not the case. After changing the line it was fixed immediately. On KL-Racings website they also mention that the OEM volvo line is not suitable for use with stronger pressure plates.

Originally Posted by Vol242vo

Thank god those security guards noticed this smoke and notified you, could have been a lot worse. Really nice fabrication skills, hope you get everything ironed out.

Thanks! Yes I'm happy the car is still useable, and I'm very motivated to improve it!

[Swedbrick]

Originally Posted by Sjeng

Feel the hose while your friend presses the clutch pedal. I could feel the (used and old) hose physically expanding. At first I thought I didn't bleed enough because it would not disengage, but this was not the case. After changing the line it was fixed immediately. On KL-Racings website they also mention that the OEM volvo line is not suitable for use with stronger pressure plate

Hmm interesting, I've been running a 763 pressure plate with the stock lines without issues for a couple of years. Maybe I got a fresher line, I assume you have a dutch friendly source for the reinforced line

[dopski]

Hi didnt know u had such a nice topic here.
I bought your shortblock for some parts. I'm nealy done collecting stuff to build a b234f for my 242.
Did you reuse old pistons or did u buy new ones and then made valve clearances?
I intended to use (your) 234f pistons in a b230fb shortblock. But maybe better to redrill old pistons.

[Sjeng]

Originally Posted by Swedbrick

Hmm interesting, I've been running a 763 pressure plate with the stock lines without issues for a couple of years. Maybe I got a fresher line, I assume you have a dutch friendly source for the reinforced line

I got it from here:
https://www.sparks-online.eu/remmen-...-remleidingen/

Originally Posted by dopski

Hi didnt know u had such a nice topic here.
I bought your shortblock for some parts. I'm nealy done collecting stuff to build a b234f for my 242.
Did you reuse old pistons or did u buy new ones and then made valve clearances?
I intended to use (your) 234f pistons in a b230fb shortblock. But maybe better to redrill old pistons.

Hey! I remember, you were building an NA engine right?
Would be cool to see the results. Why not use the block you got from me? Didn't loo very worn!
Or too much of a hassle to deal with the 16V stuff?
I used B230FK pistons and made recesses for the valves inside the pistons, using Yoshifab's jig.

Small update:

Car has driven 350km now, 0,2 bar boost only.

For some reason the ISV does not work anymore, the ECU fully grounds it now, also in test mode. Not sure if it fried a transistor, but it should be rated for 2.5A so not sure what the problem is here. Will be sorted out

It runs okay. Turbo spools very quick.
Need to work some more on the warm up curves as it is pretty rich when cold.
Also need to tune acceleration enrichment, as it now stumbles on quick tip in of the throttle.
Annoying when doing quick shifts.
I will tune some more this week and take it to work.

What has been done:

- New ball joints and steering joints. (Now the whole front end is new)
- Upgraded to 302mm front brakes.
- Fresh brake fluid
- Installed provent, routed back to turbo inlet.
- Installed classicswede adjustable top mounts

What still needs to be done:

- Alignment
- Clean up engine bay, repaint valve cover/boost pipes
- Drive it and improve tune (will take it easy for another 600km or so)
- Start increasing boost pressure gradually to 1.5 bar.
I plan on tuning ignition by directly listening to the knock sensor using headphone amps.

Longer term to-do's:

- Fix 2 rust spots on chassis
- Fix rust on 2 doors
- Build new rear axle with LSD
- Build new subframe

Some pics:




Switching tot 302mm brakes was not as straightforward as on my 940.
I have deleted one of the two front brake lines, and used the following distribution:



I think this is necessary as the 740 MBC has a stepped bore, and routing it like "stock" caused (one of) the rear wheels to lock up first. So I changed it to the layout above and now it brakes very well!

Made a gauge plate:



Provent mount:



Plate for crankcase breather:



Don't have any recent engine bay pictures.
To be continued!

[Swedbrick]

Originally Posted by Sjeng

I got it from here:
https://www.sparks-online.eu/remmen-...-remleidingen/

Thank you! Interested to see how the 302mm setup performs. I might also have to rearrange my distribution block, as I have routed it differently with the rears at the firewall side of the distribution block, although I am using the ABS master

[dopski]

Originally Posted by Sjeng

I got it from here:
https://www.sparks-online.eu/remmen-...-remleidingen/



Hey! I remember, you were building an NA engine right?
Would be cool to see the results. Why not use the block you got from me? Didn't loo very worn!
Or too much of a hassle to deal with the 16V stuff?
I used B230FK pistons and made recesses for the valves inside the pistons, using Yoshifab's jig.

Nice. The b234 short block is told to be a hassle to mount in a 240. So found a pretty fresh B230f from '93 so now also have squirters and round gears etc. I've got 8 16V cylinders now. Yours were the best matching to the new block. I'll save the b230f cylinders to keep the jig as an option.

Originally Posted by Sjeng

Small update:

Switching tot 302mm brakes was not as straightforward as on my 940.
I have deleted one of the two front brake lines, and used the following distribution:



I think this is necessary as the 740 MBC has a stepped bore, and routing it like "stock" caused (one of) the rear wheels to lock up first. So I changed it to the layout above and now it brakes very well!

Nice i did the same on my 740, forced to go to Hydra's .

The stepped bore is in case one of the circuits brake (one is half circumference of the other). If i remembered right, i disconnected the lines that directly go to the front brakes and the rest still intact, wich makes it a diagonal system. My brakes work fine, also @APK, but the brake failure light keeps turned on.

I also found that when using a axle split system like u made; the primary (rear) section of the BMC does the front braks and secundary (front) section the rears.
So good to hear it works well on your car, going to try that out too.

[Sjeng]

Originally Posted by dopski

Nice. The b234 short block is told to be a hassle to mount in a 240. So found a pretty fresh B230f from '93 so now also have squirters and round gears etc. I've got 8 16V cylinders now. Yours were the best matching to the new block. I'll save the b230f cylinders to keep the jig as an option.

Cool! Be sure to share the results, looking forward to what it will do.

Small update:

Installed/Wired the MAC boost control solenoid.
Increased boost pressure to 0.5 bar (7psi).
Also tuned accel enrichment, car is much more pleasant to drive.
Ignition timing is quite mild, will start tuning it now.

Insanely crappy launch but you get the idea:

[Harlard]

Looks like a sub-6s 0-100. Nice!

[Sjeng]

A little more if you count from the moment when the clutch is dropped. However 6s should definitely be realistisch with a non butchered launch.

[Swedbrick]

Nice, looks like fun:p