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Old 07-09-2020, 04:02 PM   #26
cwdodson88
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Originally Posted by MikeJr. View Post
What wildwood set up are you running? I have some of the old Avalanche Wilwood adaptor, but I didn't run them because I didn't think they'd clear a 15"

*Sorry R32 if I'm hijacking your thread a little
dems da ones... mine are the BrickAutosport ones, but theyre dales design. I think I used the forged dyna lite 4 piston option, 11.5"? rotor, and slightly rubbed the calipers on the corners with some 80 grit.

They required the spacers to get the rib in the barrel a little outboard so the weld/rivets didnt hit the calipers.
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Old 07-09-2020, 04:16 PM   #27
R32RennSport
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Not at all, think of this as a idea thread. It's always good to revisit a topic after sometime to compile ideas and feedback.
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Old 07-09-2020, 04:44 PM   #28
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When I had my 123GT which comes with the booster stock. I upgraded the brakes with stainless front lines. At the time I could not source a rear stainless brake hose so used rubber in the rear. New rear wheel cylinders and I used DOT4 brake fluid instead of the stock DOT3. The brakes were always excellent. The slightly higher viscosity of DOT4 helps with initial braking and handling higher temps.

If you want to make a substantial increase in brake performance. Put on some front drilled rotors. They make a big difference even if you only use stock type pads. I've used R4S pads and EBC green and they were both great street brake pads. But overall in my experience the drilled rotors I added later made the biggest braking improvement. Just stock drilled rotors is what I use on my 240s as well and they are great.
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Old 07-09-2020, 04:48 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
dems da ones... mine are the BrickAutosport ones, but theyre dales design. I think I used the forged dyna lite 4 piston option, 11.5"? rotor, and slightly rubbed the calipers on the corners with some 80 grit.

They required the spacers to get the rib in the barrel a little outboard so the weld/rivets didnt hit the calipers.
Do you have any pictures of your set up?
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Old 07-10-2020, 10:54 AM   #30
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Do you have any pictures of your set up?
There might be something in my build thread... but I dont think I really took pictures. Now I'm running 17" wheels so its no big deal. But they fit behind my 15" snow tires, and my 15" slicks just fine. The slicks are on 15x8 et 0 basset steelies. Going to try a set of 15" aluminum aero wheels next.
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Old 07-10-2020, 03:42 PM   #31
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There might be something in my build thread... but I dont think I really took pictures. Now I'm running 17" wheels so its no big deal. But they fit behind my 15" snow tires, and my 15" slicks just fine. The slicks are on 15x8 et 0 basset steelies. Going to try a set of 15" aluminum aero wheels next.
That's good news! I was thinking of selling the wilwood brackets I have


Do you remember the part number of the exact rotors?

*I found the part number

Last edited by MikeJr.; 07-13-2020 at 11:35 AM..
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Old 07-10-2020, 03:53 PM   #32
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Found them

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
There might be something in my build thread... but I dont think I really took pictures.






Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Wilwood caliper part#120-11128
EBC green stuff pads #EBC-DP2037
Mr borries adapters
I'll get the hat/rotor part numbers when I have a chance. The whole kit was less than 800. And now replacement rotors are 31-50$ each and pads are 75 a set. That's the biggest improvement over stock.
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Hats:
Wilwood HD Fixed Mount Brake Rotor Hats – 170-0208. Undrilled hats 171-3753

Wilwood Rotor Bolt Kit Number – 230-0233D

Rotor:
Wilwood Ultralight Straight Vane Rotors (11.75” OD, 0.81” Thick) – 160-0471

Caliper:
Wilwood Forged Billet Superlight Caliper (1.375” Piston) – 120-11128

Pads:
Wilwood Polymatrix Q – 15Q-6829K

Last edited by MikeJr.; 07-13-2020 at 11:40 AM..
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Old 07-10-2020, 05:37 PM   #33
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Just reading another forum; apparently there are two different brake cylinders depending on the whether the car originally had a brake servo fitted. 7/8" bore if it did and 1" if there was no servo rather than the brake pressure valve.
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Old 07-13-2020, 12:00 PM   #34
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I ran a quote through Summit based on the part numbers
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Old 07-13-2020, 12:33 PM   #35
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Reporting back with positive results. After a weekend of hammering on my Amazon at a local PCA autocross and few back roads I can confidently say that Porterfield RS 4 pads are a must in a vintage Volvo that is going to be driven hard. My fellow competitors were amazed at my braking ability, not only in distance but in ability to modulate and not lock up. These pads have completely transformed my confidence in this car when driving at the limit. Porterfield has my endorsement. I think I can hold off on master cylinder or brake booster upgrades for the time being. Also, no brake noise around town. At affordable pricing there doesn't seem to be much of a downside.
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Old 07-14-2020, 11:56 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeJr. View Post
I ran a quote through Summit based on the part numbers
Looks right to me. I went with the ebc green pads. I’ll probably do yellows next.

Once assembled, you will need to have the rotors kissed clean.
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Old 07-23-2020, 02:22 AM   #37
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braking ability, not only in distance but in ability to modulate and not lock up. These pads have completely transformed my confidence in this car when driving at the limit. [...] Also, no brake noise around town. At affordable pricing there doesn't seem to be much of a downside.
Everything sounds good... How is it for brake dust? Both the amount, and the ease of washing it off?
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Old 07-24-2020, 02:33 PM   #38
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Everything sounds good... How is it for brake dust? Both the amount, and the ease of washing it off?
A few hundred miles so far and wheels are still looking great, let me put a few thousand on them and I'll report back. After one autocross in my R32 my front wheels would be heavily dusted, not so with the Amazon so I'm thinking these are light dust producing.
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