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Old 10-15-2007, 04:48 PM   #26
HansW
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Hi Wolfie

That looks like a complete engine rebuilt job --. done One myself only lately.
I hope someone will copy out or tape out all the specs from the green book.
consider getting one of these engine overhaul kits --
I found KG trimning in Sweden spot on, -- they may not be the cheapest, but fast and A1 material.
If you'r really stuck send me a PM and I will type out the specs --
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Old 10-15-2007, 04:59 PM   #27
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The auxiliary shaft is to drive the oil pump and in the case of a block mounted dizzy, that too. It's the pully on the right hand side and up from the crank, if you look from the front.


Heres the haynes manual specs for Volvo 940 1990-1996.









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Old 10-15-2007, 05:12 PM   #28
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Exclamation Need The Green Book if Any body can hook me up Please

Need The Green Book if Any body can hook me up Please
i just Read the loast Post, Thanks!
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Old 10-15-2007, 05:47 PM   #29
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More useful info, Right click and save as, imageshack is a bit crap somtimes.




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Old 10-15-2007, 06:15 PM   #30
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Awsome! Thank you ever so much!!!
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Old 10-15-2007, 06:23 PM   #31
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Hi
Just typed it out -- makes for better readability:

Engine Specifications B 230 Ft

Cylinder head
Warp-limit acceptable for use:
Lengthwise: 0.50 mm
Across: 0.25 mm
Warp limit acceptable for refinishing;
Lengthwise: 1,00 mm
Across ; 0.50 mm
Height:
New: 146,1 mm
Minimum after refinishing: 145.6 mm

Inlet Valves
Head diameter: 44mm
Stem diameter:
New: 7,955 to 7,970 mm
Wear limit: 7,935 mm
Valve head angle: 44deg 30’

Exhaust valves
Head diameter: 35 mm
Stem diameter
New: 7,945 – 7,965 mm
Wear limit: 7,925 mm

Valve seats inserts:
Diameter (standard)
Inlet: 46 mm
Exhaust: 38 mm
Oversizes available: +0,25 and +0,50 mm
Valve seat angle: 45 deg

Valve guides
Length: 52 mm
Internal diameter: 8,000 – 8, 022 mm
Height above cylinder head:
Inlet: 15,4 to 15,6 mm
Exhaust: 17,9 - 18,1 mm
Stem to guide clearance
New: ( inlet) 0,030 – 0,060 mm
New ( exhaust ): 0,060 – 0,090 mm
Wear limit (inlet and exhaust) 0,15 mm
Fit in head: interference
External oversizes available 3

Valve springs
Diameter: 25.9 mm
Free length: 45,5 mm
Length under load:
280 to 320 N 38,00mm
702 – 782 N 27,5 mm

Cylinder bores
Standard size:
C: 96,00 – 96,01 mm
D: 96,01 – 96,02 mm
E: 96,02 – 96,03 mm
G: 96,04 – 96,05 mm
First oversize: 96,30 mm
Second oversize: 96,60 mm
Wear limit: 0,1 mm

Pistons
Height: 64,7 mm
Weight variation in same engine: 16 gram max.
Running clearance in bore 0,01 – 0,03 mm

Piston rings
Clearance in groove
Top compression: 0,060 – 0,092 mm
Second compression: 0,040 – 0,072 mm
Oil control: 0,030 – 0,065 mm
End gap:
Compression rings: 0,30 – 0,55 mm
Oil ring: 0,30 – 0,60 mm

Gudgeons pins
Diameter standard: 23,00 mm
Oversize available: + 0,05 mm
Fit in rod: light thumb pressure
Fit in piston: firm thumb pressure

Auxiliary shaft
Bearing journal diameter
Front: 46,975 – 47,000 mm
Centre: 43,025 – 43,050 mm
Rear: 42,925 – 42,950 mm
Bearing running clearance: 0,020 – 0,075 mm
End float: 0,20 mm – 0,46 mm

Crankshaft
Run out: max. 0,04 mm
End float: 0,080 – 0,270 mm
Main bearing journal diameter:
Standard: 63,00 mm
First undersize: 62,75 mm
Second undersize: 62,50 mm
Main bearing running clearance: 0,024 – 0,072 mm
Main bearing out of round: 0,006 mm max.
Main bearing taper: 0,006 mm max.
Connecting rod bearing journal diameter:
Standard: 49,00 mm
First undersize: 48,75 mm
Second undersize: 48,50 mm
Connecting rod bearing running clearance: 0,023 – 0,067 mm
Connecting rod bearing out of round: 0,1mm max.
Connecting rod taper: 0,01 mm max.

Connecting rods
Length between centres: 152 mm
Endfloat in crankshaft: 0,25 – 0,45 mm
Weight variation in same engine: 20 gram max.
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:49 AM   #32
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Shoot, you dident need to do that! thank you
So, it's been a while sence i'v updated this... well to be fair, i had the shop boreing out the cylinders for the biggest oversize pistons. if i recall correctly they were .60's Well... i get a call from the shop... they are asking me if the pistons are returnable... i responded with "not so much...Why..." well what happened is on the No1 Cylinder (by the waterpump)
they had went a bit to far, and hit the oil squirter... and this had cause there stuff to go off, and kinda made the cylinder wall... oval down there... so they were going to bore it out a bit more. and wanted to know if i wanted to get Biger oversize pistons, or if they should sleave it... well more pistons ... not an option.. and i wasent keen on sleaveing it. but i decided to go with that option. what do you guys thing?? any stories/facts/data to back it up.. because at this point i have half a mind to go back and pay them for the great work on the head, but get some money back for the job on the block. i probably overpayed, but i payed $600 for that engine + shipping it had low miles. but i was just trying to be cautious by rebuilding it. so, now i'm kinda ticked off. I Will have pictors here shortly. so last night i have things home and i'm trying to slip the pistion in the cylinder and i have no idea how, but i seem to have broken one of the rings. $h!t... the rings on the rest of the cylinders are Mahle. so where can i get rings for just 1 piston that's a .60 same brand? if that's not an option.. well i realy dont want to spend another $100 on a new set.
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:20 AM   #33
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You are using a piston installing tool right? Holds the rings in while you install it..
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:31 AM   #34
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No, i wasent, that was my bad for being a Putz! i understand that, i just dont like it, it was late, and i was just goofin around... i learned not to do that any more...

QUESTION, has any one got an extra Oil squirter layin around? one of mine is bent up and all sorts of retarted looking.


Please stay tuned for more exciteing action! ;)
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:57 AM   #35
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Hi Wolfie

If they messed up the bore, you can realistically forget the block. Sleeving it is not a real option -- there is not much space.

Who ever did the bore did two things wrong (IMO): they did not remove the squirters before starting, and they did not bore and hone to the actual piston. (which in the case of Mahle is exactly 96.600 mm measured in the middle).
We centered my block via the crank bearing journals, just to make sure, that the machine sits exactly flush 90 deg. to the crank when boring, and cannot move anyway sidewise We honed the same way.
the whole operation took about 8 hours, my machine man being an enthusiast.
A set of second size piston rings is cheap in FCP - Groton.

Best, Hans
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:03 PM   #36
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I'm Verry not happy with what happened. but i may end up useing it any way, just because i'm moveing in a few months, and if my car isent running, there's no way to move, and no way to move it.. i have half a mind to go get my money back, still the block dident come cheap. or easy... so yeah, i think i will be getting my money back. any body have a rebuild manual... or some thing that shows all the specs?
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:29 PM   #37
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I cannot wait to see how this turns out. I am also working an a squirter atm.
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:42 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HansW View Post
Hi
Just typed it out -- makes for better readability:
Or, you know, a decent scan













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Last edited by blarf; 06-05-2014 at 04:58 PM..
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Old 11-30-2007, 12:21 AM   #39
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Holy Cr@p Batman! now i'm feeling a bit like i got in over my head! Well, i'm goin, so um any body want to hold my hand threw this??

Hans, Where's a good place to pick up thoes rings? if you could give me a website, that would be Great!

As for every one else watching... any of you have an extra squirter you could donate? there's No way i'm putting this one back in... thow they were kind enough to file the end off so oil can flow threw it. it's aimed in the Wrong direction, and it's all goofy, i'll post pic's of it here soon.

I'm Still not shure if i'm going to keep this block or not, what's the concensus?
now for the fun stuff... while i was at the shop talking about the sleeve, he was like. that sleave has more knickle in it than the block.. so it's stronger... i dont know why i thought it was funny...

Okay, here are the bearings i'm looking at getting. http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/p...in_bearing_set

Are there Any other bearings i will need???
Any thing for the bar that has the gear on it? told you i'm new...
any body have experance with the brands? i personaly have got some scantech stuff (plastic) and i was NOT impressed...

******************On the image above it says Do NOT grind the valves*************
Why? Because i had a 3 angle cut on them.... am i Screwed???

Oh Fair warning. When i'm done, Shortly after, i will be hauling a trailer, and ALL my Stuff ~ 4,000 miles From Oklahoma to Alaska... it's gonna be done rite the first time. if not well then i'm gonna get killed because were selling my wife's 07 cobalt as soon as mine is finished... and it wont pull any thing bigger than a skate board with a fat kid on it...
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Old 11-30-2007, 09:18 AM   #40
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Coating o the valves is only so deep, they don't want it machined away. The three angle valve job is, in theory, just the valve seat, the round portion of the head where the valve face seals to the head.
It's OK to have them done, but I don't know that I'd have gone 3 angle on a turbo motor due to reduced heat transfer from valve to head, but it's not critical. Hopefully the valves were just lapped in the fresh seats by hand.

See if http://www.fcpgroton.com/ has the rings. Might call em if not listed.

On the block, personally, I wouldn't use it. I'd buy one cheap as you can and tell the machine shop look, do it again, do it right, and I'm not paying twice. Don't be a dick but explain you bought a low mile motor and paid a premium, and now you don't know what you have, as they very obviously didn't know what the hell they were doing. The alternative, and what I favor, is pony up and buy a verifiable low mile motor, and just replace rings and bearings, maybe pistons if they are worn, but the whole idea of a low mile motor is not to have to get machine work done, to prevent monkeys screwing something up like this. You can still find redblocks with under 100K if you hunt.
Re: sleeving: I don't know one way or another of any specific issues with redblocks and sleeves, but they have been considered at least as good as the stock bore for a long time. Hell many motors are sleeved from the start. But there again, it comes to installer competence.
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Old 11-30-2007, 10:03 AM   #41
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they offered to do it agin for free, but in the middle of nowhere Oklahoma, it's not easy to find a low mile redblock with squirters. i think i'm just going to ask for my money back, and when i move i'll start on Another block, one done rite.
Last night i pained the block... it was surposed to be a neon green... haa haa haa i guess it only looks neon green under the store lights now i have a core that's Almost John Deer Green! my wife was like, Great now we just need to buy a tractor to put it in!

So, Exactly what bearings do i need to get? because if i use this block (most likely i will) i want to get this thread wraped up, okay aside from bearings, is there any thing else i will need, i got a crank case gasket set... any tips or tricks there?
now.. there was a Big seal... that was tough to get out of the aluminium houseing, but when i replaced it, i put a little grease around the edge of the seak and it poped rite in. then i carefully seated it Exactly where the old one was, any issue with putting some grease around it?
Also, fcpgroton only sells the sets of 4 so if any one knows where i can get a reasonable priced single that would be Great

Last edited by Wolfie; 11-30-2007 at 04:11 PM..
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Old 11-30-2007, 01:21 PM   #42
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Dear members

Hi Wolfie --
IMO: the Haynes manual puts it right -- famliarize yourself with the whole job before starting to atempt to do it yourself, these motors are finnicky. the tolerances VERY tight --.
Familliarize yourself with the tools as well, breaking piston rings and squirteres is avoidable, if the job would have been planned out right.
And consider -- Are you good enough to trust your job being worth the money you put into this project? And also, will the car be reliable?
Or maybe consider to contact the One or other member of this forum, who do that job day-by-day and buy an already overhowled engine which you can trust ??
IMO -- not much point doing a bit here and a bit there, and having the whole thing apart again in a short time.
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Old 11-30-2007, 04:15 PM   #43
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I'll get it done, and i'm looking forward to the job, just going to go threw it systematicly, part by part. Plus, if i never do it, i'll never learn... and i plan to be burried in this car
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Old 12-01-2007, 03:55 PM   #44
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So, i'm Still not shure if i'm going to use this block or not, but i did decide to try out a look for it...




Boy is that... Green....




Verry Verry Green.... I Like it... but it still needs some thing....




I Don't Know......



Say......





Perhaps.....





some Blue......







Here's the Other Side....






What do you thinks... Discrase or Cool lookin?? the downpipe is blue aswell, (not shure how olg it will stay that way)


But Most of the Vac lines are blue to...

OK Back to the imporntant things... so my wife noticed that the harmonic balancer came back from the shop... minus a bite, it looks like some one took a bite out of the edge!

/me is going to see them monday! i called today and missed them, monday i'm calling, to politely ask them to make shure they have some cash on hand, because i plan on getting it back.

Last edited by Wolfie; 12-01-2007 at 04:04 PM..
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Old 12-01-2007, 08:00 PM   #45
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That paint job looks great! I like it half blue half green something new you don't see everyday. Plus word online from some Florida guy is that green blocks don't die or aleast thats what I have been told.
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Old 12-01-2007, 10:37 PM   #46
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well it's a redblock but I'm looking forward to finishing it. :D
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:42 PM   #47
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Well, the latest news, is, a few days ago, i realised it looks like a 4 year old took a bite out of the harmonic balancer....

so today, i went to the pick-n-pull and got another one. and the windshield wiper squirter motor.
But now i need to find new rings for 1 piston.. and a new oil squirter. but i will put that in the Wanted for sale.

I got my main bearings in yesterday, and fit them. looks Great... now i need to order the rod bearings...

So.. please Stay tuned for the next exciteing episode!
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Old 12-12-2007, 01:41 AM   #48
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Got my Rod Bearings in today... do i need any bearings for the intermediate shaft?
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Old 01-14-2008, 10:46 PM   #49
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aux bearings.... i'm guessing they need to be Pressed in? i seem to have buggered the middle one up by trying to tap it in so, here shortly i will be finding a shop that will pullout my bugger up and pop the new ones in.
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Old 01-14-2008, 11:21 PM   #50
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I admire you for doing this bro.
Keep up the good work.
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