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Old 10-17-2019, 01:17 PM   #26
redblockpowered
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In the process of mounting the clutch pedal, I undid the two nuts holding in the master cylinder cover, which is glued in. I poked it with a screwdriver until the adhesive failed. It was pretty easy. I'm pretty sure I took a picture of this area at some point in the process but I can't find it at the moment. I'll add it if I find the pictures. The master cylinder got bolted up (it's very tight in that area, kind of difficult to get in there but easy to tighten once it's in there) and it was time to pull the AW71.



This stuff went on all the questionable New England hardware on the underbody. Thankfully, no hardware was harmed in this process. These cars are made from very good stock, and I've never had trouble with Volvo hardware in the various 240s I've spent time with. Dad's wagon is from California so that's not really remarkable but a few of the Lemons car donors and race wagon Mk 1 were very dubious in terms of rust. Anyway...

We started by lowering the drivetrain as much as possible. Be careful not to bash the distributor on the firewall, because you can lower it too far. We undid the crossmember bolts and used a floor jack to maneuver the drivetrain. Next was to undo the top bellhousing bolts. A 3ft extension had to be purchased for this part. The crossmember bolts went back in while the rest of the bellhousing bolts were removed. Then, the crossmember itself was removed to make moving the transmission around with the floor jack easier. Lots of tugging later and the engine and transmission were split. Don't let the converter fall off. This one didn't, thankfully. The AW71 went into my garage, and later into a friend's 244.

Next off was to remove the flexplate. It came off very simply. I bought a dog dish flywheel in decent shape off of the forum (well actually my dad did, I got it for Christmas because that's how we roll in this house), used a Sachs 740T pressure plate we had lying around, and bought a Sachs 940 TDi clutch disc from KG Trimning in Sweden along with a slave cylinder rebuild kit (went unused) and a reverse light switch, which went on the transmission while it was out. Total outlay was $279.14, or $383.61 if you didn't have the pressure plate.

Flywheel bolts were tightened in a cross pattern, to 70 Nm as specified in the greenbook. I had to buy a universal clutch tool for clutch alignment to work with the Retroturbo pilot bearing adapter. The tool is basically a big cone that you push against the setup as you torque the pressure plate bolts (25 Nm, greenbook spec). Somehow, I managed to nail this on my first try. I also had the pressure plate fall on my head at one point. Such is life.



Almost there!

There was a slight complication with the bearing on the Retroturbo piece. My input shaft was juuuust a little too big to fit in the bearing. We solved this by turning the transmission with a drill while using emery cloth on the tip of the input shaft until it fit, losing about 2 thou of input shaft in the process. Not a big deal, really, but not as good as getting a part that just worked. To be fair to them, they do mention this possibility on their website

Next up, the final installment and the thoughts so far, now that I have about 5000 miles on the swap. Plus I can finally start to catch up to present day.

Parts featured in this post:

LH 2.4 dog dish flywheel, purchased here, $130 inc freight
940 TDi clutch disc, Sachs p/n 18 1862 468 031, 1036 SEK + 232 SEK freight
M90 reverse light switch, Volvo p/n 104 SEK (Swedish stuff totals $141.25 at time of writing)
Pilot bearing adapter, Retroturbo, £72.49 inc freight ($92.15 at time of writing)
(740 Turbo pressure plate, Sachs p/n 1209874, $104.47)

Cost so far: $1330.43 ($1439.48)

I added the parentheses to account for stuff I had around, that you the reader may not necessarily have around.
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Old 02-01-2020, 01:43 AM   #27
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Bump.
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Old 02-01-2020, 07:16 AM   #28
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Nice swap, looking clean!
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Old 02-02-2020, 08:46 AM   #29
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When your clutch starts to slip (if you turn up the boost), I've still got the 940 TDI clutch for sale. Per the M90 thread, it holds plenty of torque.

Nice work on the M90 conversion, you are doing well.
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Old 02-05-2020, 09:07 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Bump.
Goodness, makes me realize how far back in time the thread is vs. real life! I have about ~12000 miles on the swap now with no troubles (well, no manual transmission related troubles) and lots of stuff to post about but not enough pictures. You'll have to deal with reading.

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Nice swap, looking clean!
Thank you, it means a lot!

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When your clutch starts to slip (if you turn up the boost), I've still got the 940 TDI clutch for sale. Per the M90 thread, it holds plenty of torque.

Nice work on the M90 conversion, you are doing well.
I have a TDI clutch in it, with the weaker of the two pressure plate options. Not to say that I won't ever be needing another one at some point. The pedal is so soft with the stock pressure plate that sometimes it'll make me worry I blew a line. No air bubbles, just much softer than the M47 cable clutch I am used to. I went through our local Autozone's supply of Pentosin DOT-4 when I did brake+clutch fluid in this car. It probably would have made sense to make at least some sort of attempt at filling the master and slave cylinders with fluid beforehand. A minor error really.

So, let's see where we were. It's been a while so I can't find all the photos right now but I'll try to recount what happened in the final steps of the swap. I missed this last time, probably since it wasn't part of the manual swap, but the car got a rear main seal and an oil pan gasket, both OEM if I recall correctly, while I was in there. Either OEM or Elring. Not sure.

I first started to mount the gearbox in the car by allowing the M90 to sit under my at least mildly neighbor-angering 944 (the car had been on jackstands for weeks on end while it rained and rained and rained here in Massachusetts, this is in about April).

Waiting for hours and hours and even playing some particularly sensual Marvin Gaye was not enough to get the two to mate on their own. This meant that my dad and I had to wrestle the transmission in on a floor jack under the car. I steered the jack and my dad steered the transmission, soon enough the two were together, with engine bolted to transmission and floor jack serving as impromptu crossmember. I reused the AW71 crossmember, but not the rubber mount which had split in two in the prior years of neglect. Explains why the shifter moved so much. I bolted the mount onto the transmission and then loosely connected the lower part of the mount to the crossmember, allowing for some flexibility in running the mounting hardware through the previously unused nuts on the body whose threads had been exposed to New England winters for some 25 years. I had concerns about this part but everything went together as it was supposed to. The bolts threaded in as if the car was only a couple years old. Of course, while the transmission was out I wire-wheeled what rust I could see and undercoated, as you can see in this picture of the assembled system:

Next up was to mount the shifter, which I cleaned up and lubricated with GM Lubriplate before mounting, as well as replacing the plastic bushings with OEM parts:

I threw some of the above stuff on every metal on metal contact point after cleaning both surfaces thoroughly, including that little shifter pin you see there. This includes the clutch pivot fork, which I initially only spaced out a little bit. (FOR THOSE USING THIS THREAD AS A REFERENCE THE CORRECT NUMBER IS 6MM OF SPACER ON THE FORK PIVOT BALL!!! DO NOT MESS THIS UP!!!

I paid particular attention to the ball and cup here, assuming it was the main bearing (heh) on shifter feel. Then I mounted the whole thing, like so:

Careful not to ruin the foam/carpet that goes between the shifter trim and the body. Mine was particularly dainty, yet effective. I drove around with the shift knob looking quite shabby like this for a while before finally giving up my search for the plastic shift pattern and simply buying an 850 shift knob off of eBay. The plastic was loose on the knob I bought so I glued it on rather than dealing with the same problem after the ordeal of removing an M90 shift knob. Look it up. It's terrible. Most people end up cutting the whole thing in half.

Here's where the pictures get scarce. I finagled the clutch line into position (a difficult challenge for even the small-handed such as myself) and snap-ringed the slave cylinder into place. Not too bad. I got the clutch line and associated rubber bumper for Christmas. To plumb the clutch hydraulics into the rest of the car, you simply cut the strange little tab on the brake reservoir open and connect a hose between there and the master cylinder while all your brake fluid falls out. It's difficult. I cut the reservoir in such a way that left a little bit of the barb remaining and used a pair of little green Volvo spring clips that were in the garage to retain the hose. Then it was time to bleed the clutch. We found the best method was to pump the clutch pedal ten times and then bleed, followed by manually returning the clutch to its resting place. It was time consuming and took a lot of brake fluid. Then, we installed the driveshaft, and as it was getting dark it was finally time to run the car again.

I started the car for the first time since the swap (about two months) and it... acted really strange for a bit. It smoked. It made sounds. But then it got up to temperature and all that nonsense stopped. It hasn't done it since. No sweat, I guess.

I drove it a couple hundred miles the next week or two. Then, while starting the car in Lowell, the clutch lost pressure and the car jerked forward. Strange. I was able to pump a few times and regain pressure, before losing it again. Hmm...

I looked under the car. A puddle under the slave cylinder. Not so good. I found that the boot had swollen full of fluid and was acting as an impromptu seal. I waited for favorable traffic patterns, then limped the car home. I drove some 40 miles only using the clutch seven times. This thread ensued: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=349437

It was resolved that my slave cylinder was no good, and "while we were in there" it would probably be smart to space the pivot ball out a little more. I found a spacer at my local Ace Hardware that measured in at 1/4" and stopped me from using a big pile of washers, which would have been terrible. More clutch bleeding ensued, but the car hasn't had a problem since. Hopefully this write-up is good enough to be used as a reference for those who are interested in this swap and have questions like "where do I get parts?" or "how much will it cost?"

Thanks for reading!


Parts featured in this post:
Transmission mount, Febi Bilstein 1328900, $14.08
Shifter bushing, Volvo (x2) 1209638, $2.82
Shifter o-ring, Volvo 1232595, $4.99
Shifter bushing, Volvo (x2) 3520197, $2.82
Clutch line, Volvo 3520525, $103
Clutch line bumper, Volvo 1330129, $7
Slave cylinder, FTE 1273681, $89
Volvo 850 shift knob, eBay, $70

GRAND TOTAL TO PUT AN M90 IN YOUR 940 THE "RIGHT" WAY IN THE US: $1738.83

maybe you won't have to buy a second slave cylinder and shift knob though
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Old 02-05-2020, 09:10 PM   #31
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And if you're curious about the man-hours involved, it took about two months working after work/school for two people, mostly because it rained the whole damn time. If you were particularly industrious and prepared you could do it in a weekend.
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Old 02-06-2020, 01:18 PM   #32
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Well done, both the work and the write up...
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:07 PM   #33
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Stiff front springs arrived in the mail today! Well, stiff in a relative sense. They're OE Volvo p/n 1329826, with 14.8 mm wire and ~370 mm free length. Looking forward to the chassis improvements I have planned for springtime, anchored by the springs, IPD front bar I already have installed, and 960 front braces. In the rear I've got wagon/HD springs and KYB Gas-a-justs. My rear IPD bar will likely not see use on this car and is for sale. Maybe not. Hmm...

(In addition to the 15G, Enem V15 Turbo cam I scored for $100, and exhaust I still need to buy!)
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:24 PM   #34
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Keep the rear bar until you've tried it. It may contribute to some more inside wheel spin, but it also is a nice feeling when the car wants to rotate easier.

Get that cam in there and enjoy it. Definitely a score!

Are you going to chop those lengthy springs at all, or keep them full height?
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:47 PM   #35
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^^
Keep the rear bar. Greg’s 740 handled very nicely with IPD bars all the way around until he went to 625 pound front springs and 350 pound rear springs. Then he had to go to a much smaller diameter rear bar or the car would swap ends for almost no reason at all.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=Project+Volvo

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Old 02-13-2020, 08:10 PM   #36
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Hmm, interesting stuff. I'll have to try the rear bar then, at least. I wish this car had a real diff, it was unloading the rear pretty aggressively last time I autocrossed it but of course that was before the IPD front bar. I also have been running marginally higher front tire pressure than rear (38/34, on my Nokian snows now haha) which seemed to help some too.
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Old 02-13-2020, 08:30 PM   #37
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Does your G 80 locker still work? The car shouldn’t be spinning the inside tire if that G 80 still works properly.
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Old 02-13-2020, 08:58 PM   #38
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It works at low speeds and from a stop, but not over about 30 unless it was last loaded under 30.
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Old 02-13-2020, 09:07 PM   #39
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Then the answer to that is to do the G 80 locker mod which is quite simple. Then, it will lock at any speed. Just be careful driving it on the street.

The G 80 has counterweights that keep it from locking above 35 mph. If you reduce the weight on those counterweights you raise the speed at which it will lock. Once it locks, it does not unlock until you let off the gas/load.

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Old 02-14-2020, 12:00 PM   #40
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I'm surprised that 240240 hasn't been in here making some disparaging anti-7xx/911 remark.

Well done though.
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Old 02-15-2020, 09:34 AM   #41
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Quote:
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Stiff front springs arrived in the mail today! Well, stiff in a relative sense. They're OE Volvo p/n 1329826, with 14.8 mm wire and ~370 mm free length. Looking forward to the chassis improvements I have planned for springtime, anchored by the springs, IPD front bar I already have installed, and 960 front braces.....
Were those OE Diesel springs? I wasn't aware the 7/9 had a HD spring upfront with a redblock...... so just guessing at the source.
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:23 PM   #42
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Were those OE Diesel springs? I wasn't aware the 7/9 had a HD spring upfront with a redblock...... so just guessing at the source.
They're listed for 85-87 760 Turbo, Diesel, V6 with certain chassis codes on the build plate. I sourced them on eBay and had pretty much no luck finding them new. With the thicker wire and slightly shorter free length (the OE ones in my car are listed at 13.8 mm x 385 mm) I'm wondering if they were a part of a factory sports handling kit of some sort, or maybe European market equipment. I found them digging through all the front springs listed in the 740/940 parts catalogs on gcp.se.
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Old 02-20-2020, 07:36 PM   #43
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V15T is in.
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Old 02-20-2020, 11:03 PM   #44
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w00! When do you get to drive it? Hah
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Old 02-20-2020, 11:14 PM   #45
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We'll see how it does during tomorrow's drive to school. Maybe I'll get up early and take the back roads (or as back-roads as this side of Massachusetts gets).

I'm running the IPD rear bar too. Pretty significant dynamic difference, really wakes the car up a lot. Maybe too much, if I didn't already know I was planning on adding front spring. One of the 960 front crossmember braces is in but the other one's on backorder so those will have to wait for now. To complete the handling improvement suite(?) I'll be picking up a set of Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s to put on the set of Hydras I got off a parts car.
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Old 02-22-2020, 02:04 PM   #46
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Initial thoughts?

I'm pretty sure this thing is magic. The powertrain flexibility the V15 affords me is absurd. At the cost of a marginally rougher idle (only obvious on cold starts) I get a palpable increase in torque from ~3700 to redline. It's finally happy running past 5000 rpm and I can still lug it down around 1500-2000 at cruise without any weird vibrations or general nastiness. It has a "factory special" kind of feel to it now, like a 940R or something.
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Old 02-22-2020, 03:38 PM   #47
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Your Autocross season should be greatly improved this year. Do the G80 mod and your 940 will come alive.
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Old 02-28-2020, 09:22 PM   #48
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Both 960 crossmember braces are finally here, not the one that goes between the radius rods but the front pair. Not sure if I'm a believer yet but we'll see after I install them. They were pretty affordable, some $18/ea from Volvo although one side was on backorder.

Fuel economy with the V15 seems to be nearly identical to the T. Cool.
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Old 02-29-2020, 08:52 AM   #49
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Did you install those HD front "diesel fit her" springs? Curious if you did, and the before/after ride height and apparent stiffness. It would be interesting to know the wire diameter difference between the stockers and those springs.

Good news about the V15 cam...... I've run the IPD Turbo cam for years, and also long suspected that it wasn't as good as the TB lore led us to believe. While the IPD cam is surely better than the T, I've had a K cam for years that I've always threatened to run IF I had any reason to go back into the 8V head on my DD. Fortunately, it pulls great with the 19t, so I don't see that happening right now.

Keep those updates coming.......
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Old 02-29-2020, 07:33 PM   #50
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The springs are not in there yet, but I've measured them at 14.8 mm wire diameter vs the 14 mm of stock. Free length is 370 (or 375, just checked with my tape measure so nothing too scientific) vs the parts catalog's claimed 385 mm for the ones that are in there. I suspect the shorter free length and stiffer rate likely cancel out with regard to ride height especially when considering my front springs are probably at least mildly sagged. We'll see. Too cold to do anything outside today.
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