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Old 01-13-2020, 03:50 AM   #26
roastyleg
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Hey man. Have you sorted the car? Would love some more feedback on how it has been.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:27 AM   #27
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Mine isn't behind a redblock (Turbo 5.3 LS), and it's not in a 7/900, but after putting a few thousand miles on it, I'd suggest you look over the CD009 ratios and ponder a rear axle ratio swap.

I left my 3.73 rear axle alone for the time being (originally an automatic trans 240) - and I'm not going to bother changing because I have a Ford 8.8 waiting to go in. Even though the Nissans that used the CD009 used something close to a 3.53-ish rear end, the gearing is pretty short with the 3.73. To the point the gaps between the gears feel pointlessly short, and even in 6th gear, the motor's spinning faster than it needs to at (fast) highway speed. Hell, half the time now I'll just do a 1-3-5 or a 1-2-4-6 shift pattern.

Just something to think about - play around with a gearing calculator and probably budget for an axle ratio swap. I'm pondering something in the low 3's for the 8.8.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:36 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastyleg View Post
Hey man. Have you sorted the car? Would love some more feedback on how it has been.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
Mine isn't behind a redblock (Turbo 5.3 LS), and it's not in a 7/900, but after putting a few thousand miles on it, I'd suggest you look over the CD009 ratios and ponder a rear axle ratio swap.

I left my 3.73 rear axle alone for the time being (originally an automatic trans 240) - and I'm not going to bother changing because I have a Ford 8.8 waiting to go in. Even though the Nissans that used the CD009 used something close to a 3.53-ish rear end, the gearing is pretty short with the 3.73. To the point the gaps between the gears feel pointlessly short, and even in 6th gear, the motor's spinning faster than it needs to at (fast) highway speed. Hell, half the time now I'll just do a 1-3-5 or a 1-2-4-6 shift pattern.

Just something to think about - play around with a gearing calculator and probably budget for an axle ratio swap. I'm pondering something in the low 3's for the 8.8.
I have a 3.31 rear gear with pinion ready to go if anybody needs one... I'm going with an S14 rear subframe swap on my build so I don't need it anymore.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:42 AM   #29
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I have had mine in now fsince Aug 2018 and about 5-6 races. Typically our races are 14 hours, a couple are 24. It has worked flawlessly, never once heard a grind between shifts. Once we get on the track we only use 3rd-4th-5th and rarely 2nd. We have never used 6th.

We need to figure out something for the reverse lockout, without one it is difficult to find 5th and every driver has ended up in 3rd a few times by accident.

Vastly different than the tired M46 we had that made nice crunch sounds between gears.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:50 AM   #30
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I have had mine in now fsince Aug 2018 and about 5-6 races. Typically our races are 14 hours, a couple are 24. It has worked flawlessly, never once heard a grind between shifts. Once we get on the track we only use 3rd-4th-5th and rarely 2nd. We have never used 6th.

We need to figure out something for the reverse lockout, without one it is difficult to find 5th and every driver has ended up in 3rd a few times by accident.

Vastly different than the tired M46 we had that made nice crunch sounds between gears.
You could always get the Serial Nine shifter? It has a reverse lockout. That's what I bought for my 740. Might not work on a 240 though without cutting back the trans tunnel a bit.
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:08 AM   #31
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You could always get the Serial Nine shifter? It has a reverse lockout. That's what I bought for my 740. Might not work on a 240 though without cutting back the trans tunnel a bit.
I have a 740. I'm too cheap to buy the Serial Nine right now.
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Old 01-13-2020, 04:56 PM   #32
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Well that’s something to think about. I have 4.11 in car atm because I have a t5z in there. What’s the lowest ratio Volvo diff?
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Old 01-13-2020, 05:02 PM   #33
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Well that’s something to think about. I have 4.11 in car atm because I have a t5z in there. What’s the lowest ratio Volvo diff?
What is the diff under your car?

Check this:

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=193968
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Old 01-21-2020, 06:48 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by roastyleg View Post
Hey man. Have you sorted the car? Would love some more feedback on how it has been.
Car is running again. I agree that a 3.5 would be good, i to sometime run 1,3,5 shift pattern in light traffic at the lights if im at the front of the que.
I personally wont change though, i may go 8.8 but not before the end of the year. The reason is the same as the decision for my change to this over a t56. I wanted the very short 1st, and close ratio for dragracing. (Though im to scared of my diff blowing for that yet)
Its fine to drive but it is quite noisy, (only on deceleration sounds like they just have large backlash) they aparently quiet down with redline fluid, i have castrol fluid in it. All the Z guys reccomend nothing but redline. It prolongs the life drastically and saves the synchros.
I have met a few guys with good power Z's and they do still blow synchros if you dont have top quality fluid in them and over 300ish hp.
AdamLz has snapped an input shaft in a 4th gear clutch drop burnout. So they are proving incredibly strong when well looked after.

Personally i like it, my bracket adaptor worked very well.
If anyone ever wants the drawing they can DM me and ill email it to you. i would like to stress again THERE IS NO NEED FOR CUSTOM TRANS MOUNT IN A 7/9. you can move the manual trans mount to the auto location and use the adaptor plate i made.

The only issue i have had was with the new clutch and flywheel. My master and slave diddnt like it and burst seals, the both got rebuilt then needed retaining circlips put in and longer actuator rod to stop it pushing to far. But other than that its been good.
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Old 01-21-2020, 06:52 PM   #35
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Spend the money on the serial 9 shifter.
Its on my desperately want list but i have to much on the go to buy it.
Its the only lame thing about the car, mine works fine but its not smooth as geometry isnt perfect.
Also S1 sequential is making a shifter for the CD009 so that will be awesome but also probably $1500 USD
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:19 AM   #36
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Spend the money on the serial 9 shifter.
Its on my desperately want list but i have to much on the go to buy it.
Its the only lame thing about the car, mine works fine but its not smooth as geometry isnt perfect.
Also S1 sequential is making a shifter for the CD009 so that will be awesome but also probably $1500 USD
If Yoshifab could finally get his shifter adapter available ther would be a cheaper alternative around. I don't know where he's at with that. Maybe you could shoot him an email about it?
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Old 01-23-2020, 01:43 PM   #37
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If Yoshifab could finally get his shifter adapter available ther would be a cheaper alternative around. I don't know where he's at with that. Maybe you could shoot him an email about it?
Nah mine works fine, its just not as good as i want it to be. Any adaptor will be the same or very similar to what i have.
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Old 01-30-2020, 07:47 PM   #38
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If Yoshifab could finally get his shifter adapter available ther would be a cheaper alternative around. I don't know where he's at with that. Maybe you could shoot him an email about it?

YoshiFab has one done and there is a video he just posted with a reverse lock out
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Old 01-31-2020, 06:35 PM   #39
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I have seen this Yoshifab shifter and will be testing a prototype of it at my next race at the end of this month.
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Old 03-10-2020, 11:48 AM   #40
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As a follow up, Yoshifab made me a pre-production version of their CD009 7/900 shifter. It worked great in my last race, no more missed 5th gear shifts. Reverse is reached by pushing down to defeat the lockout. I don't know when the production units will be ready. If you need/want one, I would suggest sending Josh an email. I know there is at least one other installed.
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Old 03-10-2020, 01:44 PM   #41
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I'm not all that happy with my top-mount CBF shifter. I already broke one plastic shifter pivot ball while gently (seriously) tightening the lever down onto it. He did send a free replacement, but the way it works is that it's held in place via a pin on the shaft, and then pins in the case fit in as well. Which gives it two places for slight clearances to allow the shifter to wiggle/slop. And I'm using an offset lever (provided by him) to put the shift knob further back/to the right, and that just serves to amplify the slop.

It's not like stirring chunky soup with a wooden spoon, not TERRIBLE, but at the same time, I sort of would like a nice tight rifle action/Miata shifter snick-snick-snick. And that's not what I have.
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Old 03-10-2020, 01:59 PM   #42
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I'm not all that happy with my top-mount CBF shifter. I already broke one plastic shifter pivot ball while gently (seriously) tightening the lever down onto it. He did send a free replacement, but the way it works is that it's held in place via a pin on the shaft, and then pins in the case fit in as well. Which gives it two places for slight clearances to allow the shifter to wiggle/slop. And I'm using an offset lever (provided by him) to put the shift knob further back/to the right, and that just serves to amplify the slop.

It's not like stirring chunky soup with a wooden spoon, not TERRIBLE, but at the same time, I sort of would like a nice tight rifle action/Miata shifter snick-snick-snick. And that's not what I have.
Plastic does not seem like a good solution. The top mount solution looks a lot more complicated.
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Old 03-10-2020, 02:29 PM   #43
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Plastic does not seem like a good solution. The top mount solution looks a lot more complicated.
Even the shortest rear mount wouldn't work well in a 240. The fit would be better in a 7/9 series.
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