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Old 05-18-2020, 09:13 AM   #51
IansPlatinum
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Boat will be receiving a 1" extended kaplhenke front coilover set, but I had to check some important parameters first. Most notably, how much angular displacement do I have left in the ball joint, and will it bottom out at full droop with the extended strut housings?

Here's my investigation:

The ball joint has a maximum angular displacement of 35 degrees relative to the normal of the control arm plane.

With stock suspension at full droop, I measured the control arm to be 17 degrees to horizontal, and measured the ball joint to be at 25 degrees of angular displacement from the normal projection of the control arm plane.



I also measured the control arm to be roughly 12.5" from pivot point to ball joint center.

So, neglecting changes in strut angle (max 3 degrees added camber?), we can calculate the new control arm angle from a 1" increase in strut length:

sin^-1[((12.5*sin(17 deg))+1)/12.5] = 21.8 degrees.

So I can expect a maximum of 5 degrees increase (21.8-17) in control arm angle from extending the strut housing 1".
If I set a front negative camber of -3 degrees, I should still be in the clear, but barely. I doubt I'll need that much camber to compensate for the positive camber shift of raising the front 1"
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Old 06-22-2020, 12:32 PM   #52
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Not much new with boat, other than a few road trips and new alternator.

Ditched the denso for a bosch 100a. Much better charging at idle now. Had to use longer belts though.

Here're some photos I never posted from the OHV park



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Old 06-22-2020, 12:54 PM   #53
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Good pictures. Great idea on ditching the Denso(they are all junk, I don't why people keep recommending them).
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Old 06-22-2020, 01:34 PM   #54
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Good pictures. Great idea on ditching the Denso(they are all junk, I don't why people keep recommending them).
Thanks.

Yeah my denso stopped charging at idle when hot.

The bosch is bulkier but has been delivering consistently in the 13.5V range when hot idling & all electronics on.

I think people probably recommend the denso because they never get 105*+ F days where they are. My denso worked fine in sub-90F weather, but that isn't going to cut it for about a third of the year in TX
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:36 PM   #55
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Hi, Have you considered a chevy alternator?
they are dime a dozen and they push 105 amps and 14,5 volts. I used the one from a chevy Savana in my project and it worked fine until i crossed a wire with the fan and blew the regulator. So I went or a bigger one that I think it pushes 140 amps.
They are almost like yours

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MpUAA...Bjg/s-l300.jpg

http://www.vlvautoparts.com/vlvautop...ts/51.3193.jpg

Maybe the pulley might work and you can run plenty of power from them.
Good luck and Godspeed in your project
DZ
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:46 PM   #56
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Quote:
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Hi, Have you considered a chevy alternator?
they are dime a dozen and they push 105 amps and 14,5 volts. I used the one from a chevy Savana in my project and it worked fine until i crossed a wire with the fan and blew the regulator. So I went or a bigger one that I think it pushes 140 amps.
They are almost like yours

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MpUAA...Bjg/s-l300.jpg

http://www.vlvautoparts.com/vlvautop...ts/51.3193.jpg

Maybe the pulley might work and you can run plenty of power from them.
Good luck and Godspeed in your project
DZ
When the bosch goes, I'll check this out. Thanks for the tip
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Old 07-06-2020, 12:01 PM   #57
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Did a small but necessary roadtrip mod for the 240: left elbow pad

The stock armrest is very hard & not very nice to the ulnar nerve on long road trips.

I cut a secton of foam from an old 850 seat cushion, and cut up some vinyl from my old 240 seat cover.









Comfy and doeasn't look too out of place. The command strips I used to adhere it lasted a whole 12 hours though. Need to find a heat resistant adhesion method



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Old 07-06-2020, 03:55 PM   #58
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Really elegant looking solution. I need to do something similar but on the windowsill of my wagon. I’m used to having a thicker width door card which is where I generally rest my elbow so something like this would be a great benefit to me on the upper sill location.
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Old 07-06-2020, 04:25 PM   #59
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That's a really nice idea there. We don't even have a center armrest for ours. A place to put my elbows during any longer drive would be nice. Good work!
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Old 07-06-2020, 07:12 PM   #60
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That's a really nice idea there. We don't even have a center armrest for ours. A place to put my elbows during any longer drive would be nice. Good work!
Neither did I until today.

I present, road trip necessity #2:

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Old 07-06-2020, 09:58 PM   #61
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That's worth it for the cup holder alone. Nice score.
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Old 07-12-2020, 11:46 PM   #62
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More OHV park this weekend. This time with extra spring boosters in the front and 20" eibach springs in the rear







New height:



I'm so happy with this articulation. Ben's sphericals & johnny joint torque rods make it so easy. Rear bar delete is essential for this kind of stuff. Still comfy on the road though.

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Old 07-13-2020, 10:15 AM   #63
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Wow Ian!
Extreme articulation!
Running the LLV Mail truck 195/75R15 Wranglers?
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Old 07-13-2020, 11:08 AM   #64
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Quote:
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Wow Ian!
Extreme articulation!
For a Volvo

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Running the LLV Mail truck 195/75R15 Wranglers?
195/75R14
Yes sir! Expensive little bastards
I got them from someone who bought them at government auction, so half price for me.
As the LLV gets phased out though, they'll probably stop being produced
Gotta grab a spare set to hoard. I love them. Surprisingly quiet on the highway, super deep tread, and the 5th wheel spare still fits in the OE spare tire compartment.
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Old 07-13-2020, 11:29 AM   #65
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You continue to amaze! That looks extremely capable. Judging by the rest of this thread, I'm able to take your word for it's street manners as well.

I took Moose camping over the weekend as well. I really want to steal your canopy idea. lol
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Old 07-13-2020, 11:43 AM   #66
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For a Volvo



195/75R14
Yes sir! Expensive little bastards
I got them from someone who bought them at government auction, so half price for me.
As the LLV gets phased out though, they'll probably stop being produced
Gotta grab a spare set to hoard. I love them. Surprisingly quiet on the highway, super deep tread, and the 5th wheel spare still fits in the OE spare tire compartment.
I used to run them, the set I had were recaps, and one separated as recaps do...
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Old 07-13-2020, 12:54 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by volvowagoon View Post
You continue to amaze! That looks extremely capable. Judging by the rest of this thread, I'm able to take your word for it's street manners as well.

I took Moose camping over the weekend as well. I really want to steal your canopy idea. lol
Thanks. You should, the canopy is a perfect addition to the camping brick. 8.2' x 8.2' ARB canopy. About $300 new.

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I used to run them, the set I had were recaps, and one separated as recaps do...
Glad I didn't go with the recaps. That was the conclusion that my research led to, that they would probably separate.
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:15 PM   #68
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Video of the shenanigans:




It's pretty tame stuff for the most part... not trying to thrash my car. I was also avoiding the water because they said some of the areas were deep, and I didn't want to have to summon anyone to pull me out, due to COVID & all...

Overall, I'm just impressed that a little swedish station wagon can be so capable, all things considered
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Old 07-15-2020, 11:12 AM   #69
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Any plans for the rear valence? On a '89 245 I used to have, I deleted it and the attached rubber mudflaps (cut out of truck flaps) to the fender lip itself. I put a bit of color matched tape over the hole left in the butt cheek area. Looked alright. I'm thinking of doing something similar again, but using black matte vinyl to wrap the area where the valence was, or filling the hole and painting the area black or grey to match the lower door cladding.

Too bad those tires are so expensive, I want a set... Your's look real good with those steelies.
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Old 07-15-2020, 11:20 AM   #70
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Any plans for the rear valence? On a '89 245 I used to have, I deleted it and the attached rubber mudflaps (cut out of truck flaps) to the fender lip itself. I put a bit of color matched tape over the hole left in the butt cheek area. Looked alright. I'm thinking of doing something similar again, but using black matte vinyl to wrap the area where the valence was, or filling the hole and painting the area black or grey to match the lower door cladding.
I like the rear valence. I do want to scuff & paint it with some SEM exterior trim paint though. The faded grey is getting old.

I am considering custom mudflaps though. The volvo ones are pretty tiny. Love the way they look. I had a similar thought about a universal mudflap kit, & cut to fit. I'd probably still mount them in the stock location though.

As for the exposed rear fender lip that is normally covered by the plastic mud guard, I'm thinking about putting a black vinyl wrap just on the little section, to protect it & to aesthetically blend it better.

Now the front valence, I have been day dreaming a bit about rework. I'm not sure what it needs. But it is scraping at the OHV park, so that needs to be addressed. I don't like the look of the car without it though. I'm considering buying a spare and maybe cutting away the lower 2" that extends forward... just to experiment. Maybe it'll look good, maybe hideous.

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Too bad those tires are so expensive, I want a set... Your's look real good with those steelies.
Gracias. Check your local FB marketplace / craigslist. I know there's a guy selling used ones in Houston for $120 a set. Maybe you'll stumble across a similar deal. They have ridiculously deep tread (for a tire that would be put on a volvo). something like 17/32" new. So used ones are typically still grippy & capable
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Old 07-18-2020, 03:20 PM   #71
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Today i'm tackling some engine bay rust. Nothing too extensive luckily (Thank you, Texas), but needs to be dealt with regardless. I've known since the time I bought the car that a PO had a battery explode and spew caustic acid in the engine bay, stripping the paint in many places under the battery tray. That, and for some reason (maybe related to front end collision in 2009?) there is a bit of rust poking through beneath the hood hinges. Boat will be out of commission for a while while I start this and potentially start tackling some other needed maintenance simultaneously:

-AC system
-transmission swap
-front coilovers







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Old 07-19-2020, 09:38 PM   #72
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I got carried away




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Old 07-19-2020, 11:30 PM   #73
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Constantly raising the bar and doing so effortlessly. I need to come over and we can do the same thing to mine
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Old 07-19-2020, 11:34 PM   #74
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Constantly raising the bar and doing so effortlessly. I need to come over and we can do the same thing to mine
You are more than welcome!

You can also borrow the shop crane when I'm done, probably won't need it for a bit
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Old 07-20-2020, 11:50 AM   #75
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OH ****!

I did not see that coming! If you really want to do the engine bay correctly, this is certainly the best way. What transmission are you considering?
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