home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-09-2020, 12:17 PM   #26
R32RennSport
Outlaw Amazonian
 
R32RennSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Atascadero, CA
Default

Great work so far! Looking forward to hearing about your adventures!
__________________
Steven

1966 Volvo Amazon, 2004 VW R32 Golf
R32RennSport is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2020, 10:07 PM   #27
escondidoron
Board Member
 
escondidoron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Escondido, California
Default

Today was pretty productive. I made the mounting brackets for the A/C condenser.





They're in the oven with some black Hammerite paint curing. Once I get an electric fan mounted to the condenser I can install the assembly.
__________________
Regards,
Ron

'73 145
'16 V60

“A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In solitude alone can he know true freedom.” - Michel De Montaigne 1588

escondidoron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2020, 05:10 PM   #28
jrv6a
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Default Thanks

Thanks for posting all of this. I've been a little unmotivated with my 145, but your thread got me back up and moving again.
jrv6a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2020, 12:38 AM   #29
escondidoron
Board Member
 
escondidoron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Escondido, California
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrv6a View Post
Thanks for posting all of this. I've been a little unmotivated with my 145, but your thread got me back up and moving again.
Wow. Very cool. I've never thought of my automotive activities as being a motivator for someone else.

I ordered up an electric fan from Amazon yesterday. It should arrive in a few days. Once in hand I'll make mounting brackets and install the condenser assembly.

I'm starting to think about the A/C plumbing. I'm considering mounting the receiver drier way
up front on the passenger side of the condenser. Out of sight for a cleaner look. I'm researching charge fittings now. If I can find a clean block or blocks for the charge fittings that will be a big help.

Anybody have any suggestions?
escondidoron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2020, 08:41 AM   #30
lookforjoe
Board Member
 
lookforjoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockland County, NY
Default

Nice wagon! Looks like it's in good overall shape bodywise - perhaps a respray at some point? Looks like overspray on the door latch deflector/guide in one pic. Haven't owned a 140 since the 80's - I do recall the fun & games swapping 240 interior & trim parts and dealing with SAE/Metric overlap to make things work though.

Since you are going to the trouble of installing AC, I would suggest you use the accumulator/orifice tube and NOT the receiver/drier / expansion valve setup. It never did provide the best cooling. You can buy aftermarket orifice tube (Cold Hose, Nostalgic AC, Vintage AIr, etc.) assemblies that can be crimped into the #6 line, in place of the R/D.

The only thing I noticed in all the excellent bringing-it-up-to-snuff work you've done is the use of standard hose clamps on the fuel rail & injector hoses. I would suggest that is a bad idea long term. If they haven't already cut into the new hose, better to replace them with the closed clamps you have used elsewhere in the system, and/or use oetiker clamps, since you won't be touching them on a regular basis anyway.
__________________

My XR July2013 - 446AWHP @ 8K rpm Feedback Thread
lookforjoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2020, 01:05 PM   #31
escondidoron
Board Member
 
escondidoron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Escondido, California
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
Nice wagon! Looks like it's in good overall shape bodywise - perhaps a respray at some point? Looks like overspray on the door latch deflector/guide in one pic.
Thank you. Yes, the original owner had a lower body respray to deal with multiple door dings, etc., in single stage about 20 years ago. While decent, I would call that paint work about a twenty footer.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
The only thing I noticed in all the excellent bringing-it-up-to-snuff work you've done is the use of standard hose clamps on the fuel rail & injector hoses. I would suggest that is a bad idea long term. If they haven't already cut into the new hose, better to replace them with the closed clamps you have used elsewhere in the system, and/or use oetiker clamps, since you won't be touching them on a regular basis anyway.
Xlnt observation. I too very much prefer the NORMA clamps over the typical US-style slotted screw clamps for the reasons that you have mentioned. I also like the spring loaded Oeticker screw clamps that maintain constant tension. When I started on the underhood effort it was simply to deal with the perished motor mounts. I had already ordered all of the miscellaneous bits and pieces (including all new NORMA hose clamps for the coolant lines) when I decided to renew the fuel lines. Basically I was too cheap to place another order for just the fuel line hose clamps so I used what I had on hand. I didn't want to pay as much for shipping the clamps as the cost of the clamps! I have since ordered up a fresh stock of NORMA clamps to keep on hand and replaced the slotted clamps.

As an aside it may be worth noting why most OEMs use spring clamps wherever possible on hoses:
1) Reliability. Spring clamps provide a reliable sealing force once installed. The sealing pressure of screw clamps is dependent on the tightening torque applied by the person on the assembly line doing the installation. Too loose and the hose leaks. Too tight and the hose can be damaged, or worse, the screw stripped leaving the connection unreliable.
2) Cost. Simple wire or stamped flat spring steel clamps are the cheapest, both in terms of part cost and labor cost, yet still effective way to ensure reliable sealing upon installation and eliminate human error WRT tightness.

Just something to think about the next time you're removing one of those cheap spring clamps and cursing the difficulty when using a pair of pliers.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
Since you are going to the trouble of installing AC, I would suggest you use the accumulator/orifice tube and NOT the receiver/drier / expansion valve setup. It never did provide the best cooling. You can buy aftermarket orifice tube (Cold Hose, Nostalgic AC, Vintage AIr, etc.) assemblies that can be crimped into the #6 line, in place of the R/D.

Good suggestion and one that I had not considered. I'm going through the flush process on the compressor and evaporator this week. I'll take a look at packaging constraints and take a look at this option. The cost of an accumulator and orifice tube are certainly within reason.

FYI another xlnt source in addition to the hot rod aftermarket A/C suppliers is Arizona Mobile Air. Very helpful and a large selection of generic components.


Very nice looking MR2. You might appreciate checking out my friend's mid-engine toy, Midlana.
escondidoron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2020, 10:37 PM   #32
escondidoron
Board Member
 
escondidoron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Escondido, California
Default

I was able to get back to work on the Banana today a bit. The fan came on Wednesday and I was able to draw up some mounting brackets. With the fan in hand I decided that the lower fan-to-condenser bracket could do double duty as the lower condenser-to-body mount as well.


Here's what the fan brackets look like on the condenser:


I tried to minimize it but there is a little bit of air flow blockage. This is mandatory as the fan's mounting tabs are slip fit items that require compression between the fan body and the mounting surface for a secure fit. There are 2 pieces for each mount with the essentially straight piece for each mount being a spacer so that the actual mount has about 0.06" clearance to the condenser surface to minimize the risk of long term abrasion and subsequent failure of the condenser.

Here's the whole rig assembled ready for installation:


And installed. The brackets to mount the condenser use existing Volvo screw locations with the radiator mounting bolts and the lower front valance inner screws doing the job for the condenser. I replaced the radiator mounting bolts with 3" long studs with about 2" of the studs sticking through the radiator core support towards the grille. I cut tube nuts to length and installed them on the front side to set the fore/aft position of the condenser and also secure the stud so that the radiator and/or condenser and be removed independently.


The original radiator duct cover fits back in place just as it came from the factory:


Next up is to fit up the pulleys and fabricate a mount bracket for the Sanden style compressor.
escondidoron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 11:07 PM   #33
escondidoron
Board Member
 
escondidoron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Escondido, California
Default

I had some time available today so I rebuilt the Pick-A-Part HVAC assembly I pulled from the '89 240 sedan donor a few weeks back. The rebuild / overhaul consisted of a new heater core, blower and expansion valve along with cleaning everything up. I also flushed and pressure checked the evaporator along with new o-ring seals. Hopefully all of the old crud has been washed away. I re-coated the exposed copper plumbing at the evaporator and expansion valve using the 2" wide bituminous insulation tape that my local radiator shop uses for such things. If you haven't had the opportunity to work with that stuff, all I can say is that it sure is sticky!

The temperature is supposed to stay cool here, in the mid 80s, for the weekend. So tomorrow I'll start on the installation. I.e. I'll remove the dash and see how far I get on the new installation. I need it to be mobile on Monday to get back to work! Scope creep has set in even before starting. I bought several rolls of foil backed insulation, both thermal and acoustic. Since I'm removing the seats and carpet to make it nice and roomy while I'm removing the dash, there won't be a better time for that upgrade. Your basic 'While I'm in there.....' addition to the project.
escondidoron is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:41 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.