242 Turbo LS blah, blah, blah

[threewagons]

Yeah, even when mig welding the general rule of thumb is to remove any modules or ground straps within 18-36 inches of where you're welding. And disconnect the battery of course.

[v8volvoman1]

Very nice build. Sounds like a few lessons learned were had after the engine let go.

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by kcpaz

I never really liked the look of the coffin hood cars, so I sourced a flat-hood conversion and some quad-rounds

The car will look great when you're done, with all the nice touches you're adding - the headlights, I think it's funny how everyone wants the flat hood/round light setup - those look like more of an afterthought of how to deal with the US regs than the quad Wagner bulbs ever will - all that black void around the bulbs...

[kcpaz]

Originally Posted by lookforjoe

The car will look great when you're done, with all the nice touches you're adding - the headlights, I think it's funny how everyone wants the flat hood/round light setup - those look like more of an afterthought of how to deal with the US regs than the quad Wagner bulbs ever will - all that black void around the bulbs...

For me, it has to do with the fact that I’ve always loved the front end styling of the E30 BMW’s, and the flat hood/quad-round set up is like Volvo’s version to me.

[white855T]

Originally Posted by lookforjoe

The car will look great when you're done, with all the nice touches you're adding - the headlights, I think it's funny how everyone wants the flat hood/round light setup - those look like more of an afterthought of how to deal with the US regs than the quad Wagner bulbs ever will - all that black void around the bulbs...

Not a fan of single round. I love both double square and round. The round e-code lamps are better for sure especially if you add a relay. Its like having modern headlights.

[kcpaz]

Had a randomly warm day today, so I started stripping the paint. Chemical strippers did absolutely nothing to the OEM paint, so I'm abrasive stripping everything. Found a few hidden dents under some body filler but nothing terrible. As I suspected based on the paint checking, the car was resprayed at some point from the belt molding up. Not wanting to risk any adverse reactions between the original paint and new top coat, I decided bare metal was the way to go.





Still a long way to go, but this was a good start. Need to remove the rest of the glass, door handles/locks, wipers, bumpers....

[threewagons]

I'd definitely epoxy prime it when you're done stripping

[kcpaz]

Originally Posted by threewagons

I'd definitely epoxy prime it when you're done stripping

Was planning on an etch primer prior to starting on the body work.... but I haven't worked in the restoration industry for almost 15 years so my knowledge is probably outdated. A quick google search turns up mixed opinions. Some say use it prior to epoxy, some say don't. In the past I've used DuPont 2450S epoxy primer, which is supposed to be a DTM primer, but I've always "hedged my bets" by starting with an etch (DuPont 615S)

[threewagons]

I'd strongly encourage you to use epoxy, it's the closest thing you can get to e-coat. Etch-prime is old school, the chemicals are nasty, and it doesn't actually seal the metal. It's more for adhesion than corrosion protection.

2k epoxy has excellent adhesion and excellent corrosion resistance. You don't seem like you're skimping on quality stuff, but you get what you pay for with automotive coatings.

PPG has a nice restoration guide here https://ppgrefinish-na.uberflip.com/...guide-2018/41?

[kcpaz]

Originally Posted by threewagons

I'd strongly encourage you to use epoxy, it's the closest thing you can get to e-coat. Etch-prime is old school, the chemicals are nasty, and it doesn't actually seal the metal. It's more for adhesion than corrosion protection.

2k epoxy has excellent adhesion and excellent corrosion resistance. You don't seem like you're skimping on quality stuff, but you get what you pay for with automotive coatings.

PPG has a nice restoration guide here https://ppgrefinish-na.uberflip.com/...guide-2018/41?

After doing some quick research and consulting with some of my friends who are still in the business, it seems that you are correct. Thanks for the heads up. Based on what my friends said, I’ll also be switching to PPG as you suggest.

[threewagons]

Originally Posted by kcpaz

After doing some quick research and consulting with some of my friends who are still in the business, it seems that you are correct. Thanks for the heads up. Based on what my friends said, I’ll also be switching to PPG as you suggest.

I'm partial to PPG products as well but all of the big names have good paint systems. Just choose one and stick with it from primer to clear coat.

[Stiggy Pop]

what did you use to cut the paint back? Just a DA?

[threewagons]

it looks like a 3 inch grinder with a scrotchbrite disc

[kcpaz]

Originally Posted by threewagons

it looks like a 3 inch grinder with a scrotchbrite disc

4.5" stripping disc. Think 3M Clean&Clean on an angle grinder. Obviously you have to be very careful regarding heat, pressure, and movement.

[threewagons]

For sure, even stripping with a da can warp metal if you're not careful.

[kcpaz]

I've been wanting to do, but avoiding task of the "buttcheek" delete on this car for a while, but I need to get things in primer, so I need to get the metal work finished ASAP. Pretty straight forward process, other than the battery mounts that I had previously welded in on the passenger side. Required some annoying cutting and grinding in a very tight spot, but I'm glad that it's done. I have been going back and forth about shaving the drip rails on this car, but I think I've decided to keep them in the name of keeping the vintage look of the car. Maybe I'll change my mind last minute....










Otherwise, Lots more grinding, paint stripping and sanding. My list of rubber and plastic items that need to be replaced keeps growing. I'm thankful for a rust free car, but the soft parts are going to nickel and dime me to death.

[Texas240]

Curious to see how this butt cheek removal turns out as I just picked up a 79 242 GT that needs a full restoration.

[2turbotoys]

I don't like the butt cheek removal but understand why people do it. Nice work though.

[Harlard]

Prime showcase of all the skills I wish I had, but don't.

[kcpaz]

Originally Posted by 2turbotoys

I don't like the butt cheek removal but understand why people do it. Nice work though.

The left one was rusted where the spare tire was contacting the sheet metal, and since this car will never carry a spare tire in the trunk again, I have no motivation to retain the bulges. I know some people like the look, and some people don't. I personally think the butt cheeks are ugly and look like an afterthought, but to each his own. On my 242GT, I'll probably leave them when I finally do the restoration, but I have more interest in keeping that car original in appearance that I do this car.

[2turbotoys]

I hear ya, I have a hard time giving up the storage room though. Can fit all kinds of stuff in those.

[kcpaz]

Originally Posted by 2turbotoys

I hear ya, I have a hard time giving up the storage room though. Can fit all kinds of stuff in those.

I totally understand that. On the random grocery shopping trip, I used to put a gallon of milk or laundry detergent in this spot. For this car though, I think it's safe to say I threw trunk utility out the window when I mounted a battery, surge tank, and flex fuel sensor back there.

[2turbotoys]

I put the surge tank in the original battery location. I do plan on putting the battery and a ton of stereo gear back there though so I'll want every square inch I can save haha.

Like I said, nice work! Interesting to keep the flex fuel feature.

[kcpaz]

Originally Posted by 2turbotoys

Like I said, nice work! Interesting to keep the flex fuel feature.

Flex fuel is the best. E85 is/was way cheaper than 91 octane… and the extra 120ish horsepower isn’t bad either 😈

[2turbotoys]

Hell ya! Too bad I have to drive 45 minutes to buy any.