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Old 02-06-2019, 03:24 PM   #26
Chilm
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Thanks for the info Swedbrick,

a diy kit sounds interesting, count me in if you have one
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Volvo 945 - Blue Pearl - LPT Polar 2.3 Limited Edition
B230-FK Turbo - 90+ ported - 15G Ported - Airintake
Erland Cox Regrind - Blabla Chips - 3 inch exhaust
MBC on 0.95 - Wasted Spark - Sponsored by my wife

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Old 03-20-2019, 12:49 PM   #27
Swedbrick
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Post A bunch of little fixes

Since the car is finally out of winter storage again, I got to work on a bunch of little fixes on the car I had noticed after getting it running on LH for the first month.

The first fix was the car nearly dying at the stop light if you weren't gentle on the brakes, I suspected the pump having fallen of the hanger, however the issue was in the return tube on the pump hanger. It was aimed in stock position to just outside of the stock bucket in the tank, and the new pump would suck it dry by pumping it all out. This was fixed with a little readjustment of the rotation of the return tube.


The next fix was getting a better fuel pressure regulator installed since I got a lambda code and noticed the car running rich with the bigger walboro pump. I got myself a chinese version that would work, and instantly tore it apart to replace all the orings with quality items (since one of the original ones on the one my brother bought was installed incorrecly), cleared the chips I was warned for and took all of the fittings out, since they were sealed with epoxy. I retapped the threads to get the coating off, added permatex and put the thing back together


Tore apart for cleaning and improvement


The wrongly installed o-ring


With the fuel pressure regulator now fixed, I got to figuring out a way to adapt it to the stock fuel rail for now. I welded a piece of steel to the chopped off end on the original FPR, and drilled and tapped it to fit the npt thread on the reg as a mock-up, I also made a nice bracket and painted it black.


It fit in place like this:


After testing, seeing the needle bounce in all sorts of weird manners and wondering for a while what I managed to mess up, I realized I swapped the in and output of the regulator So off it came again, and a new bracket was made


I then measured the distance, triple checking everything, and got an adapter piece made ready to be tapped to adapt the rail to the regulator for good.


This solved my fuel pressure issue, and I only got the lambda code for idle, for which I expect the leaky exhaust and the ignition system to be to blame. I also made the mistake of installing iridium plugs before upgrading the stock system, which promptly fried the (I assume) already worn rotor, being part of the bad idle problem.


To solve this I swapped back to copper plugs, put on a different rotor and cap I had laying around, and to resolve another expected issue, performed a vacuum leak check with brake clean listening for an change in rpm as I sprayed around all inlet air seals of relevance. Suprisingly no leaks were found The car still idled rough, but better.

I took a look at the plugs once more, and they showed rich


To get this part solved I am planning on getting to a sealed exhaust soon, as well as considering some other interesting options involving COP ignition since I have access to some extra b6304 coilpacks, if I can find space with respect to the turbo manifolds which will be getting a redo soon.


As a conclusion to my day of working through a list of small fixes, I made up a 8mm shim for my center bearing, since the sound of my driveshaft bottoming out, was starting to hurt Luckily this did the trick and the car is much less clunky now


Any tips on other checks I could do for my rough idle would be much appreciated The MAF, IAC and throttle body where cleaned before installation, and I will try to check those soon, but I suspect the issue is elsewhere. Unplugging the MAF results in an even rougher idle, so I'm pretty sure it is not my suspect.
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Last edited by Swedbrick; 06-03-2019 at 01:58 PM.. Reason: fixing the images
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilm View Post
Thanks for the info Swedbrick,

a diy kit sounds interesting, count me in if you have one
Hi Chilm,

I'm currently still setting up a little company to get something like this on offer, hopefully I'll get it made before summer, but it might take a while to get it to work to my liking I'll will most definitely contact you when I have them at the ready.
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Old 03-20-2019, 05:06 PM   #29
Chilm
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Originally Posted by Swedbrick View Post
Hi Chilm,

I'm currently still setting up a little company to get something like this on offer, hopefully I'll get it made before summer, but it might take a while to get it to work to my liking I'll will most definitely contact you when I have them at the ready.
Great... I'll wait
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:36 PM   #30
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Default Rust repairs, and another track session

Hi all, it's about time for another little update on the project.

As part of getting all of the door seals and windows seals fixed on the car, I got a set of side window seals since the old ones were pretty far gone.


The rust I suspected to find was actually the lesser problem, since due to a badly done respray of the car by a previous owner, the paint had separated from the window edge, which had been covered up with silicone sealant instead of an actual repair. This left the rust to propagate, and resulted in the rear window being so loose, that I could push it out by hand


After removing the window and committing to the long road to fixing the rust, I also decided to fix all of the rust spots on the top of the car, including a spot on the a-pillar and a little hole under the left side window strip.


First off the bad paint job and rust got sanded down and rust converter was applied. After which I proceeded by filling all of the bad spots and factory seams.




A few layers of primer after that with many hours of sanding, and the top coats could be applied.


I used paint matched 173-2 with 2 clear topcoats. For now the paint will be left to harden since it is acrylic paint, and will be blended in soon with a possible paint restoration for the whole car.




The trim got put back on, and the preparations for another track day at Zandvoort circuit began (all of this had to happen in about a month mind you:p). First up, a new steering wheel, for which I had to add a 3D printed ABS section to the hub adapter I bought, since it did not include a proper dust seal as the original wheel had







Made it to the trackday okay, even got to see the sunset without laying under the car.


Unfortunately due to a car spinning in front of me on track, I destroyed the edge of my right front tyre on the gravel since I still hit the chicane at some speed. I did have a good laugh with the owner of the corvette however, who was confused by the old Volvo keeping up with him on track


Video of Corvette spinning:p


I also managed to get my hands on some new goodies for the rear axle, which I'll be putting in this weekend


More updates on the track brick to follow soon!


P.S. finally figured out image sizing
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