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Old 03-24-2012, 10:25 AM   #51
itb-volvo
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Well all systems are go. I drove it all over town yesterday while the sun was out. Car ran great. Got it alined while I was out just to double check. Let me tell you you get some interesting looks while you are driving around. As for the splitter I think it will be fine but you never know I guess. If not I will build it stronger next time. It will be interesting to see if it will be easy to run more consistent lower lap time compared to last time. Some of it will be the brake upgrade but I think if we do run lower time a big portion will be the earo. I'll post a couple of pictures in a day or two with the finished product.
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:15 PM   #52
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I don't know if the brakes will cause us to do a lower lap time, I never experienced fade. Then again, we may have better braking because the car has slightly better weight balance now.

We don't want the splitter to come off, that'll cause some major damage to stuff if it does come off! Did you already attach stuff for additional vertical support up front?

Do we need any more brake fluid as back-up? We need to check the rear pads to see how much life they have left. They're likely fine, but we want to be prepared. I can't remember if we have any back-ups aside from some that are mostly worn. And the new pads, of course.
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:35 PM   #53
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If you do get fade you'll know. The pedal will get really hard but the car won't stop as apposed to boiling the brake fluid when the pedal will get mushy an drops (also ). Either way, you'll be looking for some way or something to scrib off some speed. BTDT
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:13 AM   #54
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Don't forget to follow along tomorrow as we take on the new Ridge Motorsports track in Shelton, WA!

https://www.facebook.com/GeneralLeif

The race starts at 8AM and ends at 10PM! You can follow it along on our FB page that we will update throughout the race and also even watch some video live!

"ChumpCar debuts this weekend at the West Coast's newest track...The Ridge Motorsport Park in Shelton, WA. Watch the racing action live at www.pirlive.com or later on-demand at Live Timing at www.racetrackslive.com. Five camera crews will be covering every angle of of this 14-hour ChumpCar action!"

I guess there will only be 100 or so slots for people to watch the live video, so if you don't get in the first time you can keep trying.

The specific race info: http://chumpcar.com/register/supplementalrules/44.pdf

Wish us luck!

Last edited by klr142; 09-14-2012 at 01:12 PM..
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Old 04-24-2019, 12:51 PM   #55
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Bump... Time to change the name of this thread! We don't race with Chumpcar(now Champcar) anymore, we're mostly a Lucky Dog Racing League competitor now. www.racelucky.com

Check the Facebook page for more info! We're still running this thing here and there. I should post the updates in here as well, and current engine setup... It'd be easy to keep a log of lap times for events in here and the setup. That way we'd have a better log of what's what and why our times were what they were and so on! Jeez, I've slacked in the past many years.

We're hoping to do a track day next Friday with our first race of the season set for the end of May at Pacific Raceways in Seattle. They just repaved and changed a large portion of the track that was pretty dangerous(fun!), so times should pick up a lot. When we were at this track last year, our hot rod 2.6L B23 with the 405 head that we got from Asher(and previously was run in RSI's Chumpcar) blew up in the practice/qualifying session before the race started!!!
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:03 AM   #56
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Git sum!
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:25 PM   #57
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Woah, blast from the past and look at that BODY ROLL! I don't know who was in the car at the time, but they owe us a new tire after that flat spot. Can't wait to go back at the end of this month!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PV5M...&feature=share
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:12 PM   #58
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Setup notes for the track day tomorrow at PIR.

Engine:
-B230F .030" over(lower compression on cylinder 4, maybe dirty rings, will recheck)
-405 head with mild port work and stiffer springs, stock valves, .123" shaved, exhaust valve unshrouded and chamber re-shaped slightly to lower compression. Also added a single groove to the large quench pad for good measure(maybe). Chamber size roughly measured is 44-45cc.
-B21F K-jet intake manifold with injector bungs added.
-ENEM K13 camshaft with .015-.017" valve clearances. I think the camshaft timing gear is set at 3° advanced with the gear set as close to the factory timing mark as possible. With it 3° advanced it looks to point closer to the stock timing mark.
-850T orange top injectors, just cleaned by Dr. Injector.
-Nathaninwa throttle body adapter/elbow to 960 throttle body which is very sensitive off idle. Part of that is due to where in the load maps the car is pulling data from and the high idle, so as soon as you touch it the ignition timing wants to jump up high. I've tamed it down some by reducing ignition timing at lower rpm where we don't really drive much(low rpm cruise).
-012 AMM with custom tuning in 146 EZK and 933 ECU.
-Factory B21-B230 exhaust manifold with mild port clean-up going into a custom 2-1 downpipe with a flare/cone after the merge up to a 3" back setup with a super turbo junk muffler to keep the volume down(need to redo the entire exhaust aft of the downpipe at somepoint, it's "rough").
-82° C B20 thermostat.
-Valvoline VR1 racing oil, 10w30.
-Stock oil pan at the moment with an Accusump for help if needed.

Drivetrain:
-Ford T5 rebuilt with a 2.95 first main gearset and a .80 fifth gear(just had it done). Steeda shifter with the shift lever straightened. Cheap rubber trans mount. Fresh Redline D4 ATF.
-4.56 rear end with a Truetrac LSD(just had it set up). Fresh Redline gear oil.
-Factory smaller rear driveshaft with front section modified to have the T5 slip on the front joint. Using a semi truck center support bearing wedged in place to keep the double slip section from walking too much.
-Custom, solid "link arm poly bushing" engine mounts built last year. They're obnoxious, and turned the body into a loud speaker for engine vibrations so even though the exhaust and intake are relatively quiet, inside the car hurts your head and makes your hands tingle when you get out after a long stint.

Suspension:
-IPD front swaybar? IPD rear swaybar with adjustments but links to chassis are at a relatively steep angle. Set in softest setting for the most vertical links(still no where near vertical).
-Old, off the shelf Bilstein HDs that are too soft and/or blown. The front doesn’t feel too bad with just a bounce test, but the 240 rear shocks definitely aren’t stiff enough.
-225lb rear springs, 950lb 8” fronts.
-Delrin bushings and reinforced swaybar mounts on front control arms.
-Boxed rear trailing arms with newer Volvo rubber bushings throughout.
-Adjustable stock panhard rod with at least one or both ends in poly, can't remember.

Brakes:
-Vented 164 front brake rotors with 240 ATE front brake calipers and stock Volvo 240 pads.
-Stock 140 Girling rear brake pads with Volvo 140/240 Girling pads.
-Modified front backing plates with ducting from the front bumper openings.
-Removed rear backing plates, no e-brake parts and very poor ducting(far from rotor) made from early 140 defrost vent/tubing.
-SS lines throughout, rear brake bias valves adjusted for a little more rear bite.

Body:
-Fiberglass front lip spoiler
-Aluminum decklid spoiler.
-Plastic rear quarter windows pushed out at the back to vent and match the rain gutter.
-Plastic rear window.
-Plastic wind deflectors on either side of the windshield pushing air over the rain gutters
-Rally roof vent.

For the no chicane setup at the PIR trackday tomorrow, we'll be running super light weight 15x7 SSR, FWD offset wheels with some old 225/50-15 R-comp tires from RSI's "plum" ITB car from a few years ago.

What else? Stuff. And more stuff. 9 years of racing this thing stuff.

Come on out if you're not working! Our last session is at 2:40pm, so you want to be there well before that.

Last edited by klr142; 06-06-2019 at 02:57 PM..
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Old 05-09-2019, 02:44 PM   #59
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Track session success! I wasted a session by loading the wrong BIN when I went out onto the track for one of them, but by the last and fourth session I had the AFR close enough to where I want it. Only problems were a little oil leak at the Accusump that we already knew about, worn out/weak shocks that we already knew about, super old tires that we already knew about, and a fuel leak at the top of the cell when full that we didn't know about...

Running PIR without the chicane, without real aero work(aside from the front/rear spoilers) and the slightly taller tires I was reaching around 6100rpm at the end of the front straight(120mph) and 5800 or 5900 on the back straight(115mph) in 5th gear. So, it has plenty of room to run if we can get a little more power out of it, have better aero efficiency and are drafting a faster car.

Rough best lap time of 1:27/28 with a stopwatch feature on a phone in the grandstand.

The engine had good power throughout the powerband, pulled fine to over 6500rpm, and pulled decently enough in 5th gear where normally a 3rd gear would be used for maximum attack if we needed to do some drastic fuel saving.

With 225/45-15 RS4s that have more grip, we'll probably be just over 6400rpm at 120mph with room to go before hitting the limiter at 6700-6900(not sure what I want yet). In 3rd gear though with those shorter tires and more grip, we'll be hitting the rev limiter in 3rd going around turn 7 and it probably won't be useful in turn 12 either, unless we rev it out to 6900-7000rpm. According to LH my rev limit was set to 6920 but the tachometer was only saying around 6750 or so if I remember correctly(only hit it once). Time will tell but 6900rpm is 129mph with the shorter tires, so that's good enough. With the taller tires we can focus more on fuel saving and keep the RPM down a little bit.

Time to get some of the things sorted out before the race at the end of the month at Pacific!

First up, fixing leaks and maybe getting shocks... I have some feelers out about the GAZ stuff that should be perfect, but likely out of our price range at the moment. I'll look into getting some cheaper off the shelf stuff such shortly.

Shocks?: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=349025

More pictures and video on our Facebook page!



Speed/rpm chart with our transmission and rear-end using a 23" size tire on the left(205/50-15 or 225/45/15. 205/45-16 would be 23.25".) and a 23.9" tire on the right(225/50-15, 205/55-15 or 225/45-16. 205/50-16 would be almost 24.1" and maybe good for a rain tire):

Last edited by klr142; 05-09-2019 at 04:31 PM..
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:17 PM   #60
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Doing some prep work for the race at the end of the month!

Cut a hole in the hood for a radiator hood vent, swapped on some R-Sport Rally spec shocks that are likely too stiff but it’s what we have for now, fixing the oil leak hopefully(everything looked ok??) and going to pull apart the fuel cell that was seeping when full.
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Old 06-05-2019, 03:14 PM   #61
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Car setup for the 6/1-2/19 Lucky Dog Racing League event at Pacific Raceways. Changes are highlighted in red!

Engine:
-B230F .030" over(lower compression on cylinder 4, maybe dirty rings, will recheck)
-405 head with mild port work and stiffer springs, stock valves, .123" shaved, exhaust valve unshrouded and chamber re-shaped slightly to lower compression. Also added a single groove to the large quench pad for good measure(maybe). Chamber size roughly measured is 44-45cc.
-B21F K-jet intake manifold with injector bungs added.
-ENEM K13 camshaft with .015-.017" valve clearances. I think the camshaft timing gear is set at 3° advanced with the gear set as close to the factory timing mark as possible. With it 3° advanced it looks to point closer to the stock timing mark.
-850T orange top injectors, just cleaned by Dr. Injector.
-Nathaninwa throttle body adapter/elbow to 960 throttle body which is very sensitive off idle. Part of that is due to where in the load maps the car is pulling data from and the high idle, so as soon as you touch it the ignition timing wants to jump up high. I've tamed it down some by reducing ignition timing at lower rpm where we don't really drive much(low rpm cruise).
-012 AMM with custom tuning in 146 EZK and 933 ECU.
-Factory B21-B230 exhaust manifold with mild port clean-up going into a custom 2-1 downpipe with a flare/cone after the merge up to a 3" back setup with a super turbo junk muffler to keep the volume down(need to redo the entire exhaust aft of the downpipe at somepoint, it's "rough").
-82° C B20 thermostat.
-Valvoline VR1 racing oil, 10w30.
-Stock oil pan at the moment with an Accusump for help if needed.

Drivetrain:
-Ford T5 rebuilt with a 2.95 first main gearset and a .80 fifth gear(just had it done). Steeda shifter with the shift lever straightened. Cheap rubber trans mount. Fresh Redline D4 ATF.
-4.56 rear end with a Truetrac LSD(just had it set up). Fresh Redline 75w-90 gear oil(should we go thicker?).
-Factory smaller rear driveshaft with front section modified to have the T5 slip on the front joint. Using a semi truck center support bearing wedged in place to keep the double slip section from walking too much.
-Custom, solid "link arm poly bushing" engine mounts built last year. They're obnoxious, and turned the body into a loud speaker for engine vibrations so even though the exhaust and intake are relatively quiet, inside the car hurts your head and makes your hands tingle when you get out after a long stint.

Suspension:
-IPD front swaybar? IPD rear swaybar with adjustments but links to chassis are at a relatively steep angle. Set rear bar in the middle setting(still need to relocate the body mounts so the links are more vertical).
-Vintage R-Sport "Rally" spec shocks all around. 552189 fronts and 552190 rears.
-225lb rear springs, 950lb 8” fronts.
-Delrin bushings and reinforced swaybar mounts on front control arms(angle iron added to forward edge).
-Boxed rear trailing arms with newer Volvo rubber bushings throughout.
-Adjustable stock panhard rod with at least one or both ends in poly, can't remember.
-Corner weighted the car with Marc in the driver's seat. Removed a 1/8" spacer from the left rear upper spring perch to increase weight on LF and RR to improve corner weight to better than 50.6%(I think with swaybars disconnected). Front/rear weight is 51.3%/48.7%. Left/Right is 51.6%/48.4%. Total weight with Marc was 2540lbs with at least half a tank of fuel.

Brakes:
-Vented 164 front brake rotors with 240 ATE front brake calipers and stock Volvo 240 pads.
-Stock 140 Girling rear brake pads with Volvo 140/240 Girling pads. Front and rear pads were worn out after Saturday's 7hr race(unknown starting thicknesses). Installed new Volvo pads for Sunday's 7hrs. Pad thickness after the race is 7-8mm up front and 4-5mm in the back. Need more rear cooling.
-Modified front backing plates with ducting from the front bumper openings.
-Removed rear backing plates, no e-brake parts and very poor ducting(far from rotor) made from early 140 defrost vent/tubing zip tied to the lower trailing arms.
-SS lines throughout, rear brake bias valves adjusted for a little more rear bite.

Body:
-Fiberglass front lip spoiler
-Aluminum decklid spoiler.
-Plastic rear quarter windows pushed out at the back to vent and match the rain gutter.
-Plastic rear window.
-Plastic wind deflectors on either side of the windshield pushing air over the rain gutters
-Rally roof vent.
-Cut a hole in the hood and built a duct from mid-radiator on up to vent the radiator.
-Marc also made aluminum headlight panels, left one drilled and dimpled for inlet to our airbox. No front lights.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's a quick write up for the weekend, more info on our FB page of course.

We had a successful outing at Pacific Raceways this past weekend with Eric Mollerstuen, Marc and I joined by Gil Markham who owns the #820 Snap Oversteer MR2. We finished 12th overall on Saturday and 7th in class even though we started the race 2 laps down and weren't exactly trying hard. Sunday we were in 12th overall again but 5th in class(a C and some A class cars cleaned up their act!). Our Facebook page has a lot of the race updates for the weekend with some pictures and out of car video as well. Eric may have some in car video from Sunday we'll look into later.

The car ran and handled like a champ, except there is an issue with the tuning that had it running richer than it was back at the PIR track day last month. My attempt to make it run leaner for Sunday ended up making it run richer and we ran out, or almost ran out of gas in 3 of our 4 stints that lost us around 6 laps total and kept us from fighting for a B class 3rd place finish and 9th overall. I was hunting down 11th at the end of my stint when I ran out of fuel coming to the back of the track, grinding to a halt maybe 20-30 feet from the pit entry with just over 2 laps of time remaining. I ended up riding the starter to get out of Little Indy to let the race finish under green and prevent getting hit. I was using 5th gear through Big Indy(T2), as well as through turns 5A, 5B and 6 on up the hill to conserve fuel but it wasn't enough. The car didn't have a ton of power up the hill, but it didn't seem like I was losing much as long as I kept my speed up through 5B where the car struggles a little to get turned in and over the apex curbing. An early turn in and roll on the throttle there was working for me. The gearing was short and probably good for a sprint there with the rev limiter pushed up, but slightly taller tires(23.9/24" instead of the 23") would've been better for economy and when the car picks up some more HP.

We were able to get the shifter bent straight and it was much nicer. The gas pedal was a little farther from the brake pedal than preferred so Saturday we made a little plate to make it larger and closer to the brake pedal. It became apparent on Sunday that the brake pedal was getting below the throttle and it wasn't the great improvement we hoped for, though. Adjustments will be made for PIR.

The car handled very well with the new R-Sport Rally shocks, and it still felt soft even though they're much stiffer than before with the car happy to drive anywhere at any time. It was very controllable at the limit and neutral, you can steer it nicely with throttle, just how it should be. It was one of the fastest cars coming out of 3B! The stock Volvo brake pads did us well, never fading, very progressive and somewhat hard to lock up with the small brake booster on there. They were gone after Saturday's race so we put on a new set for Sunday and will have to check how much pad we used in a full day of green flag racing at Pacific. The Saturday pads had been used for a track day and possibly some racing last year, I can't remember off the top of my head when we changed them last. The rear tires heat up a lot more than the fronts with the rear swaybar installed(medium setting was used this weekend), but I think the tire temperatures showed we had things pretty dialed in for the outside tires at Pacific.

For the tuning, I will have to check some things to see if there's something else amiss that caused my Saturday night adjustments to not have the desired effect on Sunday. I need to get in touch with someone about some dyno time to try and dial it in better. Any contacts for reasonable dyno time in the next month that you guys know of around PDX?

A surprise of sorts was that the oil pressure, while low when hot at 43psi or so, never dropped noticeably in any of the turns. We never had to turn the Accusump on and we don't have any baffling in the current oil pan. The oil was 10w30 Valvoline VR1, so we will go back to something a little thicker to get the peak hot oil pressure back up a little higher. A warm compression test post race showed 205, 210, 205 and 193psi, cylinders 1-4 respectively. The #4 cylinder has been low since we started using this block last year after the Pacific engine failed, but it seems to actually be improving or at least holding steady compared to earlier compression tests.

I'll add more info in later, but in the meantime, check out the General Leif's Facebook Page!

Last edited by klr142; 06-12-2019 at 07:42 PM..
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:27 PM   #62
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I'm waiting to hear back from KO Racing to see about some dyno tuning time before that race. Hopefully we can dial in the camshaft timing, ignition timing and fueling better so we can go more than 1hr and 45 minutes on gas!

I am also curious if we should be running something thicker than the stock recommended 75w-90 gear oil in the rear differential... We will try and take some temperatures at the July race.

Speaking of the July PIR race, who's coming out to watch and play? We could always use some more crew and we may be looking for a fourth driver as well... They just released the updated schedule and are going to have two 45 minute sprints Saturday evening in addition to the 7hr enduros on Saturday and Sunday! Sweet, more racing time!

https://www.facebook.com/raceluckydo...location=group


Last edited by klr142; 06-11-2019 at 05:37 PM..
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:07 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klr142 View Post

I am also curious if we should be running something thicker than the stock recommended 75w-90 gear oil in the rear differential... We will try and take some temperatures at the July race.
We use synthetic 75w-140 gear oil in the rally cars and change it at the end of every day. It comes out pretty burnt. The 1030 and 1031 diffs just don't have the oil capacity needed. With the 4.88 diff it would get a little loud after 2 days of racing on the same oil.

The cars that use ~3qts in the diff can get at least 2-4 days of racing before gear oil changes.

El cheapo synthetic gear oil seems to last just as long as the expensive Redline. This is just going by the color of the gear oil only.
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Old 06-12-2019, 01:16 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
We use synthetic 75w-140 gear oil in the rally cars and change it at the end of every day. It comes out pretty burnt. The 1030 and 1031 diffs just don't have the oil capacity needed. With the 4.88 diff it would get a little loud after 2 days of racing on the same oil.

The cars that use ~3qts in the diff can get at least 2-4 days of racing before gear oil changes.

El cheapo synthetic gear oil seems to last just as long as the expensive Redline. This is just going by the color of the gear oil only.
What limited slip are you running?


Here's the conversation between David at Red Line Synthetic Oil and I yesterday:

Me:
I endurance race a 1971 Volvo 142 and am curious what you suggest for rear differential fluid. We do have a limited slip and normally run the 75w-90 gear oil, but I know it gets really hot and I want to be preventative if I can as there is no oil cooler for it. I am thinking about switching to the 75w-110 oil instead, but I don't know if the lightweight shockproof oil is an even better solution?
Quote:
Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, the 75W90 would be recommended and a good choice in your differential.

Do you know how hot the fluid operates?
The higher viscosity 75W110 would be an option to maintain some additional viscosity under elevated temperatures, though the higher viscosity will operate warmer.

The ShockProof gear oils would be recommended and better suited to racing and some speciality applications.
Me:
This is a racing situation actually which is why I brought up the ShockProof. 6hrs long is usually the short race, with the longer ones sometimes being over 10hrs. We once did a 36hr race - never again!

I don't have a temperature reading at the moment but I will try and make an effort to get one at the next race in just under a month.
Quote:
The LightWeight ShockProof would certainly be a good option for the race differential, it doesn’t contain as much friction modifier as necessary to control chatter on the street but would provide additional lockup from a clutch type limited slip on the track.
Me:
I will try and get some temperatures and get back to you at the next event. We will be putting some 75w-110 in for this, unless you suggest going with the Lightweight ShockProof instead? Is the viscosity difference when warmed up significant between the two?
Quote:
Temp strip reading would be interesting.

Either the 75W110 or the ShockProof LightWeight could be used, two distinctly different products.

The LightWeight ShockProof would have a viscosity at operating temperature similar to an SAE 80 gear oil, just over half of the 75W110. The LightWeight ShockProof would definitely have a lower viscosity, less drag, one of it’s benefits.
Me:
Ok, I'll look into getting one of those. That would be easier than reaching under there during a race to use an infrared thermometer.

The 75w-90 GL-5 fluid is what's recommended as standard. In our situation, because we can run whatever we want, should we go with the Lightweight ShockProof instead of the 75w-110? If they're two distinctly different products, what should we be running? It sounds like we should, but does it offer the same/better protection? Does it have a shorter lifespan? We do 3-4 events a year and in theory would like to get away with changing the fluid just once a year, but I don't know what a reasonable lifespan really is.
Quote:
Or probably a little easier than running behind the car going around the track…

For lower drag as well as good protection the ShockProof is typically the first choice.

Unless you have experienced issues you are trying to address, the Lightweight ShockProof would be my recommendation in your race differential.

The fluid life would be very good for either fluid, in a race car changed as a maintenance item.
So, should I go with the Lightweight ShockProof?
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Old 06-12-2019, 01:33 PM   #65
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It's the supra clutch pack LSD in a 8" Toyota housing now. Before it was a 1030 w/ 4.88 gears and a Spartan locker.

The Lightweight Shockproof would be a good starting point if you have a torsen or helical diff. I've never tried it with the clutch pack LSD.
It seems that the added friction modifiers might not be the best in a clutch pack LSD?

Have you thought about running a cooling duct or scoop to blow air on the diff?

Last edited by culberro; 06-12-2019 at 01:56 PM.. Reason: Oil derp.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:43 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
It's the supra clutch pack LSD in a 8" Toyota housing now. Before it was a 1030 w/ 4.88 gears and a Spartan locker.

The Lightweight Shockproof would be a good starting point if you have a torsen or helical diff. I've never tried it with the clutch pack LSD.
It seems that the added friction modifiers might not be the best in a clutch pack LSD?

Have you thought about running a cooling duct or scoop to blow air on the diff?
Cool. It is a Truetrac so we will give the LW ShockProof a try. We have an aluminum diff. cover so we'll see about adding some fins to that and then maybe adding a little scoop onto the bottom of it to blow air through the fins would be a good idea!
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:00 PM   #67
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I’d skip adding fins, and just add an air scoop or a duct blowing at the diff.
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Old 06-13-2019, 01:48 AM   #68
klr142
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Why skip turning it into a heat sink? There is already air flowing under the car, adding a little kick up to help direct air over the diff cover won’t do much if there aren’t fins there to give the air something to cool down...?
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:28 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Why skip turning it into a heat sink? There is already air flowing under the car, adding a little kick up to help direct air over the diff cover won’t do much if there aren’t fins there to give the air something to cool down...?
The ROI on cooling vs time spent is probably going to be better with a scoop and/or duct.
I also don't want to weld aluminum fins onto a diff cover for you
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:31 PM   #70
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http://g2axle.com/pages/view/brute
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:54 PM   #71
culberro
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How dare you point out that there are a few different companies making finned aluminum diff covers.
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:57 PM   #72
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https://yourcovers.com/diffcover_5058.php

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-32021/overview/

The problem with finned covers is panhard bar clearance.
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Old 06-13-2019, 03:49 PM   #73
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Covers! Thanks guys!
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Old 06-13-2019, 06:38 PM   #74
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Was that an AI rep you were conversing with from Redline?

Great job on the car! I love this race car.
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Old 06-15-2019, 03:38 AM   #75
klr142
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Lol, he was not a robot and thanks!

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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
The problem with finned covers is panhard bar clearance.
Indeed!

Has anyone run one of these before?

We’ll just call it good with the ShockProof and may work on getting more airflow to it. It does state on he bottle that it reduces temps and I can’t say with certainty that we’ve had a failure due to heat yet.

Last edited by klr142; 06-17-2019 at 08:00 PM..
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