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Old 06-13-2019, 12:27 AM   #151
122power
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Wilwood forged superlight internals (1.62 bore) in the front with 11.75" x1.25" rotors, and some dynalight 4 piston (1.12 bore) on 11x0.8" rotors out back.

MCs are 3/4" front and rear, with a Tilton bias bar added into the stock pedal box using a 6:1 ratio. I'd probably go 5.5:1 next time.

Stay tuned for a brake kit using these calipers from STS... they'll fit withing an OEM 16" wheel or most aftermarket 15" wheels.

There are some pictures of the pedal box and firewall plate in this album:

Rally Racing
Nice photos! Have a build thread? Always like your posts and info that you post up!
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Old Today, 05:00 PM   #152
Duder
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More thoughts about brake boosters - I just found this Australian remote booster, the PBR VH44. No idea if this is a decent product or not but this (or something like it) may solve a few problems at once for me here. It would allow vacuum boosted brakes for simplicity's sake, without the need for any electric or electro-hydraulic boosting apparatus. The fact that it's de-coupled from the master cylinder would let me choose the best MC for the job in regards to volume ratios vs. the calipers. I think it may also be compact enough to hide it under the inner fender, ahead of the front wheel on the driver's side.



I'm writing this up now mostly as a reminder to myself to look into this more!
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Old Today, 05:42 PM   #153
Tfrasca
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That's interesting. So the remote booster just gets plumbed in-line from the master to the junction block? I'm also sort of always looking for good options to remove the stock booster.
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Old Today, 06:12 PM   #154
vwbusman66
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Jaguar did a similar thing with much of their 60's and 70's stuff.
Most familiar to me is the 3.8S/4.2S cars. They had a master on the firewall, then a remote booster and "solenoid" plumbed in to improve power.
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Old Today, 06:25 PM   #155
hiperfauto
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Won't you need 2 of the boosters to have power brakes on all 4 wheels?
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Old Today, 08:51 PM   #156
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I'm guessing the master on the firewall is just a single circuit and its only job is to jab at the back of the booster, just like the rod directly from the pedal normally would, and then the master on the remote booster has a normal-ish F/R split. PBR is reasonably well known for pads, so it might not be garbage, lol. I wish I'd known of something like that back when I had a 140 I was dreaming about engine swapping
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