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Old 02-08-2019, 12:49 PM   #1326
t8fanning
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Erik is right. I just installed one of those aeromotive double pumpers in my buddy's car and they're big. It would take a fair amount of cutting in the trunk and tank to get it to fit with access in a 240. A 525 will fit in the stock sending unit with a little modification and should flow plenty for you.
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:52 PM   #1327
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If I've learned anything, it's that my goals tend to grow over time. I'm just assuming that at some point I'll replace the smaller turbo and 3" exhaust and try to get more power out of it.
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Old 02-08-2019, 01:12 PM   #1328
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I have 2 525s in the stock sump. No issues here. But at the ending of the day it is your car and your money.
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Old 02-08-2019, 03:34 PM   #1329
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If you shop right, you can get one of those dump pump setups for $560 or so. Super easy and clean install with AN fittings built into it. No need to **** around with the stock sending unit.
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:23 PM   #1330
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Yeah, I got it for a pretty good price. Certainly far less than 'new' cost, someone bought it, unpacked it, didn't use it, sold it on eBay.

As far as fitting it on the tank... I'm not sure I see the issue? It's very low profile outside the tank, no taller than the AN fittings that screw onto it. Certainly shorter than the stock sender. I'm not going to bother chopping an access panel to get to it from inside the car, although maybe I'll regret that later. I'm just going to pull the tank, install, put the tank back in.

If a pump ever fails, at least I've got another one - if it's the secondary pump I just move a wire on the relays and drive it home on that pump instead.
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Old 03-11-2019, 03:07 PM   #1331
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After a long while of not touching this even a little (cold wet weather, even in a garage it's no fun working on cars in the damp coldness), I did a bit over the weekend.

- Finished up the shifter - put the boot back on, shifter knob, etc. And the lever is a little bit on the short side, I may end up lengthening it a little. But nice short snick click snick throws.
- stuck a steam vent kit on, bolted the intake down with new gaskets (after cleaning a bunch of sandy dirty crap out of the inside)
- built some PS lines
- cleaned the TB - same sort of sandy crap there too. Run without an air filter? Who knows, the intake came from Kuwait, the seller sells all sorts of LS stuff from there.


I had vague plans of pulling the gas tank out and putting the new pumps in it, but... motivation was lacking.

Ordered a radiator and fans for it today.

Momentum should pick up on this with more daylight in the weekday evenings and improving temps.

I still need to crawl underneath and measure for a driveshaft and get that in the works. The driveshaft place here is pretty quick - they made my T5 one-pc in only a couple of days.

I have all the line and fittings to make the fuel system. AN8 from the pumps to a Y - AN 10 thru a filter and up to the front, Y into AN8 to the fuel rails, AN8 out of them to the FPR, AN8 return back to the tank. Running 1 pump off boost, both on.
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:13 AM   #1332
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I keep on being busy when the weather is nice. Trail building season is in full swing. The 4Runner, usually never needs any attention, but's it's needed some (swapped front diff and replaced ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends). We bought (well, more like accepted as a gift, more or less) our neighbor's '02 Highlander with a bad cylinder (30 psi on #2) - plans are to swap motors and sell it on for phat profits. And trying to sneak in bike rides. Enough excuses out of the way?

OK, got the driveshaft built and in place. Big honking 1350 u-joint up front, still a smaller one in back since they don't build anything larger that still bolts to a Volvo axle. And really, the Volvo axle wouldn't survive putting down too much torque anyhow. Driveshafts Unlimited in Arnold MO for the win. Told them what's up front, what's out back, and a measurement and a couple of days later I have a custom driveshaft. $300. w00t.

Under the hood, some tedious work that, after done, doesn't seem like much of anything happened. Mostly made up some spark plug wires that wrap around the end of the header and back over to the coils. The headers I have do *NOT leave much room for plug wires at all. You'd think whoever built them would think about that, but no. I got some cut to length Accel wires with ceramic right angle plug ends.

And wrapped the headers with some black header wrap. On the driver side there's just a lot of stuff running near them - brake lines, power steering lines, clutch line, etc.
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Old 04-08-2019, 10:57 AM   #1333
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John, is this the kit you're running? https://www.cxracing.com/MF-KIT-LS-MSTG7993-ONLY

Are you using STS mounts, or did you fab your own?
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Old 04-08-2019, 12:14 PM   #1334
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I feel ya on the excuses. I have about 100 and I still feel like I'm running WFO.
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Old 04-08-2019, 12:31 PM   #1335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84.242 View Post
John, is this the kit you're running? https://www.cxracing.com/MF-KIT-LS-MSTG7993-ONLY

Are you using STS mounts, or did you fab your own?
That is it. And I am using the first gen of the STS mounts. To make things work better on both ends (the CD009 sticking on the rear, and the turbo and crossover pipe on the front) I scooted the motor forward 1 1/4 inch using a relocator bracket that the Hummer version of the engine I'm using came with on the passenger side - I just got another one and used it on the driver's side too.

I needed to make some clearance for the turbo on the passenger side of the inner fender - and then a small ding in the crossover pipe where it got too close to the sway bar mount. But it all fit in quite nicely. All I had to do was cut and rotate part of the crossover pipe to move the wastegate a little bit.

Even the downpipe seems like it will fit nicely.
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Old 04-08-2019, 01:46 PM   #1336
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That is it. And I am using the first gen of the STS mounts. To make things work better on both ends (the CD009 sticking on the rear, and the turbo and crossover pipe on the front) I scooted the motor forward 1 1/4 inch using a relocator bracket that the Hummer version of the engine I'm using came with on the passenger side - I just got another one and used it on the driver's side too.

I needed to make some clearance for the turbo on the passenger side of the inner fender - and then a small ding in the crossover pipe where it got too close to the sway bar mount. But it all fit in quite nicely. All I had to do was cut and rotate part of the crossover pipe to move the wastegate a little bit.

Even the downpipe seems like it will fit nicely.
That's pretty wild, thanks for figuring that out.

Pictures of the kit aren't very clear - how's your clearance by the passenger side manifold? Think the 4th Gen F-Body A/C compressor could still fit there? Looks like I'd have to move the wastegates but how close is the manifold to the block?

Is the collector divided for twin-scroll or open?

Last edited by 84.242; 04-08-2019 at 01:53 PM..
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Old 04-08-2019, 01:53 PM   #1337
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I don't think there's any room for an A/C compressor. The manifold runners drop down and come forward to a collector underneath that corner of the motor, and then the outlet drops down even further to curve up into the bottom of the merge fitting. But I haven't really looked at that too closely.

It's twin scroll, left/right sides are split, into a dual scroll turbo.
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Old 04-08-2019, 01:58 PM   #1338
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I don't think there's any room for an A/C compressor. The manifold runners drop down and come forward to a collector underneath that corner of the motor, and then the outlet drops down even further to curve up into the bottom of the merge fitting. But I haven't really looked at that too closely.

It's twin scroll, left/right sides are split, into a dual scroll turbo.
Thanks John, heck for the price they want for it I think it would make sense even if I scrapped the entire passenger side

Good luck with your build, this is gonna be pretty awesome when its all wrapped up!
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:19 PM   #1339
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Quote:
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I don't think there's any room for an A/C compressor. The manifold runners drop down and come forward to a collector underneath that corner of the motor, and then the outlet drops down even further to curve up into the bottom of the merge fitting. But I haven't really looked at that too closely.

It's twin scroll, left/right sides are split, into a dual scroll turbo.
Stick the ac compressor high. There are a few different types of mounts
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:31 PM   #1340
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Sometimes I wish I'd just gone with a supercharger. All the boost built into the valley, out of the way, just two skinny pipes to fit out on either side, the whole front end opened up for accessories. Ah well, turbos are more fun.
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Old 04-08-2019, 10:32 PM   #1341
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Sometimes I wish I'd just gone with a supercharger. All the boost built into the valley, out of the way, just two skinny pipes to fit out on either side, the whole front end opened up for accessories. Ah well, turbos are more fun.
its going to be great when mine goes from the shelf to the engine.
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Old 04-24-2019, 02:03 PM   #1342
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Modest progress, everything else in the world has been keeping me busy. The sort of progress that looks like you really haven't done anything.

But the engine harness is on. The headers and crossover pipe are wrapped and bolted on 'for real', not just hanging there by a single nut. Wastegates are on, but not plumbed to boost yet. Put a throttle cable on it, verified that it opens the throttle 100% of the way. Was there something else? Maybe... Mostly waiting on a radiator to arrive now. Due to brain fade, I got one with the low pipe on the passenger side, high pipe on the drivers. And down low on the passenger side... is a turbo. That was NOT going to work, not even a little. So I had to return that and exchange it for the mirror-image version, that's still in the mail.

And the 'fix it and flip it Highlander' thing we bought from the neighbor? After finding the 30 PSI compression test, I poured a little oil down the hole and tried it again, absolutely no change. Hmmm.... that's promising. A shop had diagnosed it with a 'scored cylinder/bad piston - needs a $6K engine swap', but an unchanged wet compression test didn't support that theory. I tried a shadetree leakdown test - attaching a compressor hose (hooked to one of the 4Runers on-board-air compressors, lol) to the compression gauge hose. And then rather casually turning the motor around until it wasn't hissing out an open intake or exhaust valve. This wasn't very helpful, I heard hissing most of the time, but it was very hard to tell where it was going. But: I was NOT coming out of the PCV hose (or oil filler cap).

One last shadetree test to verify the growing consensus: I replaced the plugs on the front head and started it up with the oil cap off. No real noticeable draft from the oil filler cap. Revved it - same. Had my wife come out, put it in drive, and step on the gas some - not even then. Whatever's wrong - it isn't the cylinder/piston.

So I whipped the front head off, which really isn't all that hard. The rear head? 69.5% more of a PITA, I'm sure. But the front one is cake. And... little chunk missing off one of the exhaust valves on #2.

So yeah... the $500 'needs an engine' Highlander is starting to look a bit more profitable, with a lot less labor involved. Sweeet.

Even sweeeeter? A 2004 Highlander VVTI V6 literally showed up at Pick-n-Pull like a day later. PnP is great because they, unlike all the other local junkyards, has web-available car inventory. So we went by and snagged a good (enough) head for $65. It was even a sale weekend. Lol.
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Old 06-05-2019, 08:29 PM   #1343
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Not a whole lot of progress to speak of.

Starter: I found out my cheap Camaro starter wasn't going to fit. Too long. It might have been possible to remove the engine mount on that side, fit the starter, then put the mount back on, but not enough room for it to fit in at an angle, then into place. So I googled around, found out truck starters are shorter by an inch or two, got a cheap one, that bolted in just fine.

Put the goldbox wiring harness on. I just need to add a couple more wires to the loom - alt warning light, engine temp gauge, oil pressure light and gauge. I to a radiator hose fitting and drilled and tapped it for the Volvo temp gauge sensor, and got an adapter for the VDO oil pressure and light sender I had been using on the `16V - it fits in the place where the LS oil pressure sensor sat.

And I got the radiator hoses and intercooler hoses/piping done. It's pretty snug around the front of the motor - between it and the slightly thicker than normal radiator (Nothern 209622) - I got the 'Ford/Mopar' style so the high and low radiator inlets would be on the correct side - I have a turbo down low on the passenger side where the 'Chevy' style has the low outlet.

Some pics:


Cold side intercooler piping. Not a huge amount of room because I scooted the motor forward an inch or so. I still have to put a remote PS reservoir somewhere.


Hot side - wrapping the 3" piping down under the headlight, then up to the intercooler. It's the same bar and plate intercooler I was using with the 16VT.

Last edited by JohnMc; 06-05-2019 at 08:42 PM..
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Old 06-05-2019, 08:48 PM   #1344
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Still need to:
- finish the downpipe - I got a 3" oval 90-degree bend to make fitting it between the starter and frame a bit easier.
- heater hoses - I plan on running the 'hot' hose through a pressure reservoir and using a non-vented cap on the radiator. Also, LS motors apparently need coolant flow through the heater circuit all the time, even if the heat is off, I looked around and found an automatic bypass valve ( https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-.../dp/B004AF34DQ ). If the heater valve is open, a spring pushes the valve to make coolant flow through it. If that shuts off, it senses the pressure and the spring allows the coolant to push the valve open and it loops directly back. You can just add it anywhere along the heater lines - wherever it's out of the way and both lines are close to each other.
- Fuel lines - still haven't pulled the tank. I'm considering just hooking it up to the DW300 for a little bit - just to get the thing running and mobile, shake a few bugs out, then pull the tank and put the dual pump setup in it.
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Old 06-05-2019, 08:56 PM   #1345
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That auto bypass valve makes me nervous. Couldn’t you find a four port heater valve?
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Old 06-05-2019, 09:00 PM   #1346
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It's a stock part on some cheap ass GM cars. Sort of like the motor.
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Old 07-08-2019, 04:39 PM   #1347
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It's been miserable weather here. Hot and humid. And when it cools down some, mosquitoes from all the rain we've been having since forever. Abd bike riding season is in full swing, so all in all, the wagon doesn't get worked on much.

I temporarily half-assed the fuel system - just to get it started up and driving around for the short term, before I pull the tank out and stick in the 'big' dual pump system and larger lines to and from the engine. I just got some adapters for the current smaller system and made all the lines to the fuel rail and from it to the bigger FPR, then back down to the small original return line. It has a DW300 pump in it currently, should be OK for reasonable use.

And I spent yesterday sweating out about 5 lbs of sweat and welding up the first 2/3rds of the downpipe. I thought at first that I wouldn't need to mess with the downpipe that came with the Fox body kit too much - but with everything in place that space I thought I had evaporated. So I'm welding up an ovalized 90'degree bend to get down between the starter and front subframe. I got the top part - from the turbo, around the strut tower, down along to the engine, to a V-band clamp, and the ovalized adapter on the other side of the clamp. Now I just need to chop off the upward part of the ovalized 90 degee bend and weld it to the adapter, and then get the back part of it to hook up to the rest of the existing 3" exhaust system.
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Old 08-03-2019, 09:13 PM   #1348
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Slow progress taking place when I'm not out riding my bike. Which is, frankly, more fun.

Finished up the engine harness work on the engine bay side - added all the needed wires, reloomed it all, stuffed all the wires into the passenger footwell to work on later.

And finished up the downpipe. Down through the narrow area between the starter and front suspension, around and back to the existing 3" free flowing 2 muffler S.A.M. exhaust system I was using with the 16V motor.

Still need to work out the remote PS reservoir, a coolant expansion tank plumbed into the heater circuit (no room on the driver's side, it needs to be over on the passenger side somewhere). And the turbo oil drainage, I have a surge tank and a pump, planning on dumping it up into one of the valve covers.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:08 AM   #1349
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Got the PS reservoir done, and the heater/expansion tank/etc stuff done.

Tried pressurizing the fuel system last night. As expected, a few drips here and there on the fuel rails, snugged the fittings tighter, no more drips. Then i tried running the fuel pump again, PSI went up to ~40 psi. Then trickled down to 0 again in about 10 - 15 seconds. WTF? Looked for leaks around the engine bay, nothing. Bone dry. Did this again, and heard dripping from the rear of the car. For some reason, pressurized fuel is leaking from on top of the tank. Stainless AN lines going to a bulkhead fitting on the fuel sender, with a DW300 inside (the old setup that was feeding the 16VT motor). The back end of the car is stuffed in the garage, can't really get into it to pull the cargo floor out and take off the little hatch to see what happened there. But that's strange, I certainly haven't touched the fuel system since I parked it and took the 16V motor out.

Ah well, it's getting close, I guess I'll just pull it out of the garage and park it in the driveway for the last bit of work. Still need to do the turbo oil drain setup. And run a couple of more wires in the engine bay (battery cables, wire to the alternator, etc). And somehow I forgot to wire up the reverse lights, ordered a pigtail for the trans switch. And then some wiring work in the passenger footwell, removing the 16V's MS3X and hooking the Gold Box up.

Then fill it with fluids and fire it up.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:34 AM   #1350
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Something must have blocked the fuel tank vent
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