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Old 06-16-2012, 08:49 PM   #101
nel621
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No need to remove the windshield if you have the entire dash out.Also helps to have the seats out.Don't be brave and try to remove that windshield yourself.I will be redoing my 79 coupe with the vinyl top and the upholstery place will have a glass company come over to remove the front and back windows.Not only is the glass a problem but the chrome trim on the glass is also a concern.
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:22 PM   #102
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The Bertone windshield is, indeed, a very unique item, and perhaps very difficult to replace. While there is no sign of rust around the windshield the seal shows signs of age deterioration. It was my hope to remove the windshield and replace the seal when painting. My son worked for a restoration parts company while going to collage and I know all this detail stuff is generally available, either as NOS or reproduction, for Mustangs and Camero's of this ere.

It is not for Volvo's.

I have a clue that custom windshields can be made but they may be a few bucks more than standard stock items.

This is a big road block but gotta keep on.

She is not running any better after the throttle cable exercise, but the throttle pedal feels better. Went down to the point of cleaning the throttle plate contact with the bore.

Tried to take the idle air control off but wimped out before stripping the 5mm Allen bolts.
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:34 PM   #103
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Before scrapping an 80 bertone I removed as much of the unique trim as possible.The last thing were the front and rear windshields.Let's just say I should have hired a glass company.I was super gentle wiith it but no luck.I really wanted those 2 windows.The front one does show up on ebay every now and then.Not the rear.
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:06 AM   #104
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A while back, my blower motor failed -- about 6 months after we pulled the dash to do the heater core. Mine leaked into the a/c condensate pan and simply dripped out the drain tube. Nothing inside the car. Got good at pulling the dash. Not something I ever wanted to say.....or to actually get good at.

If you decide to wait, suspect it will take a cut-off valve in both the supply and return lines; or you could just loop the lines up front. I blew the hose off on the dyne on mine one time -- and looped them to get myself home.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:04 PM   #105
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I have been screwing with the injection on this car for at least a couple weeks now without any real success. Here are my experiences to date to remind me of all the little things I have found and fixed or perhaps broke.

Constructive criticism and comments appreciate.

Leroy, the Master Oil Change Technician that worked extensively on this car before me left a trail of missing washer, broken bolts and incorrect parts which have compounded the issues.

The first time I tried to start the car the fuel pump did not work. Found that the fuses were corroded in their holders. Cleaned/replaced them. I had a stock of Volvo fuses from many years ago. Then the fuel pump (FP) would run erratically and I changed the FP relay with a used one which also displayed erratic results. Removed the relay cover and cleaned the contact with 600 W/D paper. That seemed to fix that.

Then I found that the fuel distributor leaked from an attempted rebuild by Leroy. Sent the original distributor to JayTan for rebuild and calibration. $270, best deal on the Net if it really works.

At this point I found erratic power to the Lambda module. Took the System Relay apart and found a lot of corrosion. Cleaned it best I could and cleaned the contacts with the above W/D paper. That seemed to fix that.

The engine started at this point but ran with high rpm (1500) indicating a leak in the intake system. It started, ran and revved well but it had no power. Any significant throttle caused it to bog down in drive or reverse. While it would rev to red line it would not pull a hill. Exhaust does not seem restricted.

Not knowing if the Lambda module really worked and tripping upon a real bargain I purchased a correct PRV module (0 280 800 005) from a working PRV for $20. When replacing the one in the car I found that Leroy had installed a 4 cylinder module (0 280 800 033). That may have worked but perhaps not optimally.

Then found that the O2 sensor would not produce the required voltage. Max tuning of the CO screw in open loop only produced about 0.5v. Open loop means that the O2 sensor is disconnected from the Lambda module. Replaced with an OTB (other than Bosch) 02 sensor. That one produced 0.96v at max CO tuning.

At this point the engine started well, revved well, had no power and bogged with throttle.

Found an 1/8" 'T' connector that was broken and replaced. Found one of the 1/8" climate control vacuum hoses disconnected. Neither affected the engine condition.

Then I started dissembling/reassembling the entire air supply.

Found that the gasket between the upper and lower Air Flow Valve assembly was not well seated. Replaced.

Found that a bolt holding the 'ram horn' to the throttle body and to the intake manifold was too long, bottomed into the blind hole and did not seal one half of one side of the connection. Thanks Leroy! The bolt belonged in the throttle linkage assembly. Replaced the original gaskets that had been disturbed but not replaced.

Found that Leroy left out a couple of the washers on the throttle body to air flow assembly. Not a big problem but evidence that he had been there.

Disassembled the distributor and found new spark plug wires and rotor. The advance plate moved easily but the shaft oil pad was completely dry indicating that the distributor had been open but by not by anyone that knew about Volvo maintenance.

After all this effort and with careful attention to ensuring that all potential vacuum leaks are addressed the engine exhibits, by high rpm, even more vacuum leaks. RPM is now at 2k. Note that this chance from 1000 to 2000 rpm is in the wrong direction and I do not know why.

With advice from my new BFF, John Lane, adjusted the CO screw to produce 0.7v this afternoon. The voltage was not really stable but varied from 0.5 to 0.8v based on very tiny adjustments to the CO screw. Removing the 3mm Allen wrench caused the voltage to vary significantly so I had to adjust, close the 3/16” port, measure and adjust again . . . several times.

Still no cigar!

Bottom line is that the engine starts, runs, revs very well. Idle is 2k rpm. No power, bogs down with throttle operation.


Any suggestions appreciated.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:52 PM   #106
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I meant to add the pictures of all the other restoration efforts. Much of the missing time has been spent cleaning and otherwise putting everything back as new.



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Old 06-22-2012, 11:15 PM   #107
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I know this might sound weird, but how about posting a pic on inside of trunk area, especially the "wheel houses" or wheel humps in the trunk. PLEASE?
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:24 PM   #108
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No problem! . . . . Why?

Tomorrow . . . its dark outside.

The '81 Bertone did have butt cheeks and a full size temp spare. My '80 had no cheeks and the deflated spare.

What else are you looking for?
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:25 PM   #109
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Just a shot in dark but are all the vacuum hose where they are supposed to be? Checked the timing?Fuel air mixture correct?Sparkplug wires where they are supposed to be?Just double checking all of Leroys' work.Plus I take it you have the Volvo green books for the B28f.
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:27 PM   #110
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Where are your wiper arms? Painting?
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:37 PM   #111
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No problem! . . . . Why?

Tomorrow . . . its dark outside.

The '81 Bertone did have butt cheeks and a full size temp spare. My '80 had no cheeks and the deflated spare.

What else are you looking for?
I want to see 260 C carpets on the wheel houses in trunk. I'm not talikg about "butt cheeks", but rather rear wheel 'houses" or wheel wells from trunk side.

Last edited by smokeyfan1000; 06-23-2012 at 01:34 PM..
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:41 PM   #112
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I have checked, but not double checked the vacuum hoses. Tomorrow.

I do have all the appropriate Green Books.

Gave the timing light away about 25 years ago. I think my son-in-law got it caught in the belts. Glad I wasn't there. Just received the new eBay dwell meter which I gave away about the same time.

The F/A ratio is measured by the O2 sensor voltage which I understand should be tuned to 1% or less CO. Since I do not have a CO meter have been advised that is a 0.7v from the O2 sensor in open loop. I have adjusted to that.

The wiper arms are on the restoration bench. Now, that is observant!
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:30 PM   #113
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Here are the trunk interior shots. Let me know if you want anything specific.

You must note that I have not started on cleaning the carpet.

[edit] After re reading your question the pics probably do not display the area you have a question about. I will post additional photo's later this evening or tomorrow. My carpet appears to be complete if not particularly clean. If you need me to make patterns of the sections I would be happy to.











Last edited by TestPoint; 06-23-2012 at 04:51 PM..
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:35 PM   #114
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I think Smokeyfan1000 wants to see pics of these 2 pcs. of carpet installed.
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:07 PM   #115
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Her you go Smokeyfan1000
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These are in my 90 240DL
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:04 PM   #116
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Sorry about being slow . . . if you need patterns let me know.



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Old 06-23-2012, 09:38 PM   #117
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Thanks nel621 & Testpoint for the carpet pics.

. I recently added carpet panels to my 91 240. And was wanting to see if the 262C Bertone's wheel wells & it's carpet pieces/covers were the same as/would fit, a 240.

Appears they are exactly the same or very very close to same . I need a set of wheel well carpet covers in black to complete my 240's trunk carpeting.

Scroll down the link's below page @ 3/4 of the way down the page, and you'll see why I'm wanting black 262C bertone wheel well carpet covers.

It will complete my trunk carpet adventure. LINK> http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...an1000&page=18
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:04 PM   #118
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The aluminum engine and its components are very corroded and I was hoping to media blast them back to something approaching new. This is the results of a trial with just an abrasive. Not completely what I had hoped for. Anyone got better results with soda, glass beads or other media?



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Old 06-26-2012, 08:42 PM   #119
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Although more work, you would have gotten more of a shine by just polishing it with steel wool.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:13 PM   #120
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I like the 'after' look. Squirt it with some 300F Eastwood Clear satin to prevent oxidation.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:59 PM   #121
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The 'before' was after a 3M black pad. That was going to take more like an air driven wire brush than steel wool. I saw clear coated media blasted aluminum at the shop that did the work and didn't really like the look. Did find a really professional looking custom auto shop in the back woods of North Georgia. Impressed me!

Now . . . back to the engine. I believe that the high idle was due to the throttle body vacuum tube dislodged at the last minute on the last installation. Now starts quickly, idles smoothly at just below 1k rpm, holds the rpm in gear but bogs down when throttle is opened.

Got my brand new 30 year old Craftsman Engine Analyzer connected to the Lambda test lead and measure a swing from 15% to about 27% on the 6 cyl scale at idle. That sorta corresponds to the O2 sensor voltage swing of 0.5 to 0.8v that I saw a few days ago. The idle does swing 50 rpm but not nearly much as represented by the O2 sensor voltage.

The 'fault' chart keeps pointing me back to CO adjustment but eBay has not come up with an appropriately priced meter. John Lane says adjust to 0.7v for an 1% CO. Mine will not stay stable below max voltage. Trying to adjust to 0.7v results in the above referenced swing.

I think I have acquired the parts necessary to create a fuel pressure gauge. Tomorrow . . . tomorrow.

Question of the day:

The custom shop owner is a really nice guy and estimates that the total cost of doing what I described to him can be done for $60 - $80. Should I pay to have this done or go buy the Harbor Freight blast cabinet and media for about $130?

Last edited by TestPoint; 06-26-2012 at 10:46 PM..
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:09 PM   #122
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It's a toss up.Save time,money and space if you farm it out.Don't you have enough on your plate trying to sort stuff out?The up side is you can have a new toy[blast cabinet] for future projects.
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:04 AM   #123
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You could also get some nasty parts/carb cleaner dip like berrymans, just soak that part for an hour and it will look brand new.
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Old 06-27-2012, 10:36 AM   #124
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A weak solution of Muriatic Acid will also clean up aluminum. Don't use it full strength or let it sit too long on the part or it will eat through. I've used it on my intake mani's and throttle bodies for years. I second hitting it with clear coat to preserve the clean and it will also clean up easier in the future.
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:35 AM   #125
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Black wheels look great!
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