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Old 03-22-2015, 06:31 PM   #176
Stiggy Pop
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Wiring wiring wiring. Lots of playing with wires. Since this is my first real wiring project and first real MS install it took me a while to get a rhythm. Had to run wire and crimp connectors for all of the coils, injectors, and sensors. Lot of work but I'm happy with how it came out. Everything is terminated and working now, so I'm going to go back and do all of my tidying/wrapping/looming.



I needed a place to mount the fuse and relay panel, microsquirt, and MAP sensor inside the car. I already have the big ABS brain up on the firewall so it's a bit tight. There was just about enough space up to the left so we made a mounting surface. We decided to use a rigid nonconductive composite material aka a plastic cutting board found in the basement. It ended up being just the ticket. The upper left bolts are through the firewall panel, picking up the existing holes that hold the bottom of my AC delete plate. Bottom bolt picks up a tab off of the bracket holding the ABS brain. Nice and solid, like it.



Just enough space. Again, I'll wrap up and support the wires. This gets everything nice and tight up behind the dash.



Now I really wanted to start the car so I had to finish the fuel system. I swapped sending units to the one with the A340 pump and ran new 10awg power wire to feed it. Swapping it in was easy, WAY easier then doing it on a 7/9! I ended up just mounting the stock filter right to the underside of the car, and ran Aeroquip -6 pressure hose alongside the stock return line. Went together well.



Runs up the firewall and feeds the front side of the rail. I'm going to put a small stud on the bottom of the intake so I can get a clamp there to hold the line up underneath it.



Then out the back of the rail, up along the firewall behind the brake booster and over to the FPR in it's new location in the corner (I also stuck the headlight flipper relay over there). Return is out the bottom and snakes down to pick up the stock steel return line, which I had to cut ~6" off to accommodate the new location. This is waaay cleaner than what I had before!





We were really happy when everything powered up and fuel lines pressurized with no leaks. It may have taken a while, but it's worth it when things are right. I powered up the Microsquirt, loaded some firmware and verified my basic sensors were reading. I tried to load a modified version of my old ms2 tune that Kenny sent which returned some firmware mismatch errors. I loaded it anyways, jammed the stock plug wires into the ls2 coils and tried to start it. I had an rpm signal coming in which was a good start. Coils were firing, and smelled like fuel so was hoping to get it going. I ran through the little Odyssey battery and hooked up a spare Optima which also proved a little flat. Couldn't get it going so quit on it and sent some logs to Kenny for input. He saw some sync loss under cranking, and said try again with a fresh battery. Also pointed me to the CORRECT firmware which made loading the tune much smoother . I like the megasquirt stuff but finding up-to-date documentation SUCKS.

SO, came back a day or two later with a charged battery and stuff to make proper plug wires since the spark coming from the stock wires jammed in didn't look very hot. I bought some wrong parts and it was a bit of a pain, so here's what I used in case anyone else is curious what works.

- 6' MSD 8.5mm superconductor wire (6' is the smallest roll they sell): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- 90* MSD coil boots for an LT1 (others may fit, this is what I found that works): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
- Straight MSD spark plug boots (these are cool because they are made to bend to any angle after assembly): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- I bought a set of plug wire dies for my crimper and still ended up using this - for $10 this is an awesome little tool. Has guides for stripping the wire, and then you just squeeze the crimp in a vice. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Once I figured out the crimps that part went pretty smooth. getting the terminals and wires into the boots was a bitch. I lubed things up with dielectric grease and it was a fight to push the wire through the boots. But don't worry it seems to be much easier to push them back the other way, so it's easy to just push the terminal down the boot when you're trying to make your connections . Wasn't fun but they fit well and make good *click* connections on both ends. The coils are tight to the downpipe, so things are just going to be close no matter where they go. I'll use the fiberglass boots and hope for the best.

Super short wires



With the wires done and the battery charged we tried again to start it. Cranked and cranked and cranked and wasn't getting anything. Was getting ready to quit on it and it came to life. Ran a little rough at first but smoothed out and was fine! Came up to temperature, idled down to 950 like before, inputs working. This was a big celebration moment! Really happy and satisfied to see the car start after all of that work. From others' experience, it seems like I may end up needing a resistor across the VR signal to the microsquirt, in order to play nice with the stock CPS. I'll have to find out later, for now it's a bit stubborn to start cold but runs smooth and revved as high as 4100rpm just sitting in the garage.

Now I just need to build the new cold side IC pipe and work out the throttle cable in order to be ready to take the car on some short shakedown runs. Eager to see what things are like with the new ignition and new intake manifold! I bought a Lokar throttle cable that I can cut to length, but I need to take it to a bike shop or something to see how to get barrel connector on the end of the cable to work with the throttle spool.

Spent time this weekend on the IC pipe. There was an easy way out of this, which was a silicone 45* off the TB, then one piece of 45* pipe in between. After some thinking we decided that it would end up nicer and more "finished" looking to do all of those bends in pipe. This meant making the piece was a lot more involved. I had bought two 45* bends, and they're not cheap - like $25 a piece - so we were working with that. It ended up being one 45 cut down to pretty much minimal length then with a pie cut out of the inside to tighten the radius, which made it so the other piece of 45 lined up with the mouth. Took a fair bit of cutting and fitting but it came together great in the end. There will be two ports up on the underside by the throttle; one for the IAT, and one for adding an idle valve down the road. The BOV will be down by where the hose clamp is, clocked down on the pipe so it will be mostly hidden out of the way.





Very happy with how it came out. Will drop off with the welder this week, so looking forward to getting it back as one piece and taking the car for a ride! The whole wiring/ecu swap is pretty much there now (battery cables left to do), so time to wrap things up and do some tuning. I am going to revise my air intake, considering buying a cylindrical airbox that can sit where the intake pipe is now, then plumb down for fresh air in the lower inner fender area. I can also now turn my attention back to the interior, getting the Recaro's in (yay!), door panels on, center console put back together, steering wheel swap etc.

There is a car show at www.eeuroparts.com on 4/26 which is a half a mile from my office and also my favorite parts vendor. I'm looking forward to bringing the car, so I'm going to use it as a goal to get as much of the above-mentioned done as possible. SPRING FEVER.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:13 PM   #177
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awsome, love seeing the updates. I vote you change your user name to "Mr.Clean".
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Old 03-24-2015, 02:51 PM   #178
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Thanks! I appreciate it. I have had a certain picture of the car in my head for a while now, so it's cool to see the bigger pieces of that getting into place.

Senior sent me these pics this morning and had to put them up. Dropped the pipes off with our welder-friend yesterday, he had the thing ready for us this morning. How awesome is that! Not to mention the work is really beautiful, I love finely welded alooominum. Small piece in the grand scheme, but I'm excited about it. It's a good match to the intake and shows some attention to detail/quality.









mmm purrrtyyy. Almost a shame the work around the bungs will be out of sight on the underside!

I'll test it in the car tonight to see if it's all set (may need to trim one leg back just a bit). Then I can bring it down to a local shop that has a bead roller.
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Old 03-24-2015, 06:52 PM   #179
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I'm voting 500+ at the wheels when she's all dialed in!!! Sweet ride my friend!!
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Old 03-24-2015, 07:27 PM   #180
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Awesome build.
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:01 AM   #181
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Don't forget to put a bead on that cold side pipe.
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:03 AM   #182
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I'm voting 500+ at the wheels when she's all dialed in!!! Sweet ride my friend!!
Thanks Paul! I was just talking to my Dad last night about what the restriction in the system would be. I think realistically it's probably me and the fact that I'm not a tuner, so it's whatever Kenny can do through logs. Really don't know what to expect from it, but it should be a damn strong foundation. My Dad also said "if your smelly old Volvo beats my Z06 I'm going to be really upset" . Maybe his c5, but the c6 has some work done now so don't think he has anything to worry about.

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Awesome build.
Thanks!

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Don't forget to put a bead on that cold side pipe.
Yep, I'll get that done before I run it. Actually hoping I can make it up today to a local Buick/GNX shop that can roll a bead for me.

I started working with the Lokar throttle cable last night. The Lokar cable wants a 5/16" hole, so I made a little aluminum plate to bolt to the stock location with the appropriately sized hole in it.



The Lokar cable has a clevice on the pedal end of the cable that fits over the stock 240 pedal which is good. The clevice is a bit too shallow to reach the hole, so I had to open the hole in the pedal arm up a bit towards the back to reach the clevice. I also had to knock the top corner of the arm down with a file to allow the clevice to rotate around the arm as the pedal moves. With that end worked out I cut the cable housing (it's a braided stainless housing, so wrap in tape and cut with a cutoff wheel) and started looking at the throttle side of the cable.

When I bought the manifold I talked to Nathan a bit about this style manifold and throttle cables/spool. He ended up sending me the spool shown below. I'm not sure what it came from, but it's definitely been modified. Unfortunately, it looks like the spool is too small as it's opening too quickly.



We did some measuring and basic geometry and it looks like ~2.5" was the right size. I went home and checked the YoshiFab throttle spool I had on the old setup and it's right on 2.5" so that's a good start. I'm hoping I can use that to get me going, then I'd like to look for/think about coming up with a different solution. The yoshi deal is two separate pieces that just get sandwiched together and I had some issues with the pieces slipping relative to each other, even with the nut hogged down pretty tight. It's also a bit on the ooogly side, but if I can run with it for now I'll be happy.

I'm using the Volvo 3" throttle bodies, I think I have one from a 960 and one from a v90? (one has charcoal canister nipples, one does not). When I was playing with them the other week I had issues with the stock return spring - specfically I had one of the cheesy tin spring plates go round, so it was just spinning on the shaft. The material is so thin it went round very easily - happened while I was just clocking the spring back in, no excessive forces applied. I'm a little hesitant I may have the same issue when I start disassembling again. Anyone encountered similar, or needed to do something different with it? We started talking about adding a secondary light return spring, because the idea of the thing spinning on the shaft and leaving me with WOT is pretty scary.
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Old 03-25-2015, 05:09 PM   #183
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Sunday I got started on the fuel system, and making use of this expensive pile of aluminum and hose.



I was a little miffed when the local speedshop substituted the Russell fittings over the Aeroquip I asked for since it's what he had available. Now that I've made up a few hose ends I'm over it, they seem to play nice with the AQP hose I've grown to love.

I got the modified fuel sending unit swapped in with the Aeromotive A340 pump. I had no idea how easy 240 guys had it with this job. Ever done one on a 7/9? Huge pain in the ass in comparison. So it'll be the A340 in tank, -6 on the feed, stock filter with adapter fittings, -6 to rail, to FPR, then the stock return line back to the tank.

Here's the filter setup for -6. Fittings are m12x1.5 and m14x1.5.

Do you have some more info about the in-tank pump? I'm swapping a B230F into my 242 (originally a B19A), so i'm trying to find a neat pump solution.
I like to use a late model fueltank+new in tank pump, and skip the original pump under the car (and first in-tank pump). So you setup looks very attractive to me.
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Old 03-25-2015, 06:13 PM   #184
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Do you have some more info about the in-tank pump? I'm swapping a B230F into my 242 (originally a B19A), so i'm trying to find a neat pump solution.
I like to use a late model fueltank+new in tank pump, and skip the original pump under the car (and first in-tank pump). So you setup looks very attractive to me.
Sure, pump is an aeromotive 340. This site had the best data http://realstreetperformance.com/Fue...ison-Test.html



I'm running 45psi pressure (~3 bar). I have a '92 fuel tank in the car, I actually don't know what year this sender I bought is but it looks the same as '92 sender that was in the car. I bought it modified, but it looks to be a pretty straightforward exercise. The bottom of the sending unit was sliced to accommodate the fatter pump, and the two halves clamped together. Larger (10awg) power wire was run down to the pump, and this new wire was passed through the top of the sending unit with a small grommet. I ran dedicated 10awg wire to it that went battery>30amp circuit breaker>relay>30amp fuse>pump.

Just dropped right in. It is nice having the one pump. It's definitely louder than stock, but obnoxious. Will move plenty of fuel so works for me.
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Old 03-26-2015, 05:05 PM   #185
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Great work!
You remind me of me..except you put nicer things in your car and im a broke a$$

Keep it up. hope to see what this makes as well...
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:10 PM   #186
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OK good news: the Yoshifab throttle spool that I had from the other car is 2.5" working diameter which gives me the proper throw for the stock 240 pedal.

Bad news: getting it to actually work was way, way more involved than I thought or wanted it to be.

The throttle saga: I'll start with the cable and what I needed to do for it to work. I feel like Lokar over charges for what it is, but it is a good solution so I can't really knock it. That said, it was not quite a "cut it to length and throw it on" deal.

This is the cable I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The pedal end has a pre-made clevice that will work on a 240. The throttle body end is made for a carb linkage type of deal and is useless for us. This is what they list as universal though. The clevice is not actually deep enough, so it comes up short of the stock hole on the pedal arm (just barely, looks right but the pin won't go through). I had to open up the hole towards the back of the pedal arm in order to get it on. I then had to file the top corner of the arm a bit so the clevice could actually rotate around instead of being locked in and bending the cable.

That was easy, cutting things to length was easy, the struggle was getting a damn end for the cable. The stock cable has a little barrel connector on the end of the cable which I measured to .200"x.350". The Lokar cable is .065" (or about 1.5mm). I had basically written this off as no big deal, I'd just go to a bicycle shop and get some ends and off we go. NOPE. bike shops were worthless (tried 3 of them). I could get something online but I was trying to get a part in hand to work with over the weekend. Lord Athlon gave me the best tip which was a style of barrel that uses a set screw to clamp the cable. I took that inspriation to a hobby shop thinking of RC planes and control cables, strike 4. I tried Home Depot and Lowes, 5 and 6. I tried a chopper shop but they were closed so that's not their fault but still strike 7. I tried one last bicycle shop out of desperation and he sent me up the road to a CanAm dealership (for those keeping count, the 9th stop I made on this errand)

SCORE! This stupid thing was the answer


This is, evidently, a commonly used part that just turned out to be incredibly hard to ask for (no specific name, just barrel cable end) and even harder to find locally. As mentioned this came from a Can Am/Triumph dealer, here is a direct link:
http://get2itparts.com/index.php?mai...keyword=490500

if you want to solder one on, I would buy # 620-25662 and open up your spool the extra .035"
http://www.flandersco.com/action.las...gory=CablePart

So there you go. I pulled out my hair so you don't have to. Do yourself a favor and just buy one in advance and save the hours of driving around searching.

Rant over. On to the spool which was actually more of a puzzle.

This Yoshi spool I had was causing me some issues last year because it is made of three pieces, two outer plates and the inner disc where the cable rides. The inner disc is spot welded to one of the outer plates, the second outer late is loose and only held in index by the clamping force of the nut on the shaft. I made it TIGHT last year, and still had the loose plate spin meaning I didn't have throttle control. The thought of that issue combined with my reservations about the return spring meant I needed a better solution.

Here's the issue with the return spring. The spring is held into this cheesy stamped steel retainer. The retainer has a rectangular opening to match the throttle shaft, and is held in place sandwiched between the shaft shoulders and the throttle spool. Here is the issue I was having; as I was playing with spools and TB's last year, I bolted a spare return spring down and it just instantly rounded out, leaving the spring spinning on the shaft. Take a look at my "good" return spring and you can see the problem:



What's happening there is that as the spool is tightened, the plate for the spring gets pulled up against the shoulders of the shaft, and that was neatly punching them out. That means I'm one *tink* of sheetmetal away from a completely out of control car. Scary.

As we were playing with things on Saturday, we figured out the real source of the problem. This was interesting because it was actually a design issue with both the Yoshi throttle spool, and the one that Nathan sent. The mistake both guys made was that the squared off hole is spaced away from the throttle shaft by a round hole (a washer on nathan's, the round hole of the outer plate on Yoshi's). So, as you pull your spool on tight, you are forcing the retainer plate down on the shaft past the squared shoulders, so the inside of a spool turns into a nice punch to make a round useless return spring. In this pic, you can see where the squared edge is recessed, and the plate would be sucked in through the round hole, giving you the weak and deformed area seen in the pic above.



Also in that pic you can see where we headed for a solution. We had talked about just welding the plate on so the spool would be one piece, solving my slipping issues. That still left me with the design flaw for the return spring side. We ended up with a pretty good solution, which was to drill straight through all three pieces of the throttle spool and pin it with tension pins. First time using them like this and it worked out really well. Additionally, it meant we could send the pins through the spring retainer plate. So we've got two pins which hold the halves the spool together, and also pin the spring plate from rotating. (notice it's a round hole now)



With the spring pinned, I didn't have to worry about the shoulder/rounding out issue. BUT when bolted on the TB this way, the spool pulls in too tight and rubbed on the TB. So, I had to space it out again, and that meant I needed something that would ride on the shoulders of the shaft (so no washer). We ended up taking a spare v90 throttle lever and cutting the square section out of it, then knocking the thickness down by half on the grinding wheel so it wouldn't be pushed out too far.



Voila, custom throttle shaft spring retainer plate spacer (tm). A good tip from personal experience: when you spend a day fiddling with the throttle spool, and you make a custom spacer that determines everything's position, don't set the spacer on the garage floor next to the parts washing bucket then forget about it for hours. That was a panicked ten minutes before I saw it sitting there...

This worked out well. The spool was in the right position on the shaft, held together for real, and the return spring was pulled up nice and snug between the spool and my spacer, as well as being pinned to spool for rotation. There was ONE LAST issue with this kludgey setup, which was that I now had like 4 threads of the shaft sticking out. I went and got a thin stainless steel jam nut which was enough to pull in flush with the end of the shaft. My Dad drilled through the flats of the nut, then through the end of the throttle shaft, and we were able to cotter pin it in place. Wicked in a few drops of red loctite for good measure and that thing is on there and not going anywhere. Spool may never come off again, at the least if it comes off something much nicer and custom made is taking it's place. For now, I can put the end on my throttle cable and be done with this headache.

Pain, but it did come together and is safe and functional.



This and the IC pipe were what I needed to go try the car out with the micro install, so I may get to drive the car tonight and see what's up. I spent a fair amount of time this weekend tidying up wires, doing some wrapping and bundling. It's looking much more finished, and I'm looking forward to finding some issue and having to cut back into the damn thing . I'm going to order a bunch of Roundit 2000 and consolidate the looms in the split braid so things will look nice. I'd like to push the loom down below that firewall lip like it is stock, but there is basically no room with the coils so have to see what I can do. I'm kind of over caring about wires right now...



I also wanted to clean up the intercooler pipe before it went on so I wasn't pulling it out again. This was last night's elbow grease project:

before:


after:


I'm strange in that I actually really like polishing aluminum. It's kind of meditative if you do it with the right attitude, and the results are so rewarding! This is all by hand so it's not a perfect mirror finish, but pretty damn good. Process was 320 > 400 > 600 > 00 steel wool > 000 steel wool > 0000 steel wool > regular Mother's aluminum paste polish. 75% of the work is the 320, and the rest is just getting it smoother.

One last shiny thing to share: I've been wanting to revise the intake. The air filter is too small, the location not ideal, and to be honest I never liked the giant shiny 4" aluminum pipe. I had thought about a heat shield around where the filter sits, or punching the filter through and down to in front of the inner fender to get fresh air to it. I was iffy on how well I could execute either idea. the SAAB 9-5 has a big round cylinder air filter down in the inner fender and I was thinking if I had something like that in-line, I could just put a fresh air duct down low with the filter up in the bay.

As luck would have it such a thing exists, and not only does it exist it's made of CARBON FIBER. And who doesn't love carbon fiber? We won't address how much of this purchase was motivated by "mmm... carbon fiber", we'll just call it a good answer to the problem. It's a BMC airbox and it's awfully pretty for an air filter.

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Old 03-31-2015, 04:26 PM   #187
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Photos of that filter on please!
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:15 AM   #188
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Photos of that filter on please!
Yeah I had to stick it on just to see it in there! It's really nice looking. It's kind of a silly amount of money to spend on an air filter, but I just went and looked at what people pay for CAI kits for like a Subaru or a Focus and I don't feel so bad anymore.

Lately my Dad has been closing the hood at the end of the night, else I end up standing there staring for 15 minutes instead of going home



The engine side is actually 100mm but it looks like a 4" coupler should work OK.



Perfect size for the area I'm working with. I'd like to get it angled back towards the coolant bottle more, which will give me more room to work with. Just not sure yet how I'll do that. We could do a straight coupler off the turbo, then make a 4" aluminum pipe to the angle of my liking. The only thing with that is that I'm kinda liking it all black, rather than the mondo metal intake tube. Ideally the mouth sits like ~3" further back, then I just send the intake duct down into the inner fender. I'll fiddle with it this weekend some and mock things up and see what I like.

Car runs. I put the IC pipe on Tuesday and got the throttle cable back together. By then it was around 8pm so I was out of daylight. I haven't got my headlight harness done yet, so had no lights. I REALLY wanted to go up and down the road though, so I went up to the top of the street and back in pitch black (super quiet rural road). I'm pretty happy that things are looking pretty good post ECU swap. I actually think that the idle and throttle response feels better with the new ignition setup (maybe the intake manifold is helping throttle response too). The big thing I wanted to know was will I get crank signal sync loss at higher rpm and the answer is YES. I got up to 4500rpm in 2nd (in the dark, didnt like it) and it just all breaks up and acts like a rev limiter: BOPBOPOP. From what others have done it looks like a resistor across the +/- CPS wires should clear it up. I'll experiment with that and hopefully the car is truly driveable this weekend. Interested to get a worthwhile log off to Kenny so he can see how things are with the new setup.

Popped the passenger seat out and started checking out the Recaros, really excited to have real seats in the car! 240 seats SUCK, sorry. Pretty useless for real driving. The Recaros have Integra sliders and the whole deal is very basic. We put power GTO seats in my old 945 and this swap looks like it will be much much easier than that. So getting seats in and some of the interior done will be the next focus.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:37 AM   #189
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Dang Mike! Looks good. I have seen this intake before and wanted to run it and out through a hole in the fender but I was limited by funds so passed. Looks good though.
My car currently has the same issues running as yours but I believe it's for a different reason. Hope you get it sorted. Good work. I would leave it where it is
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:43 AM   #190
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looks like a BMC CDA...

Although there are copies out there

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...oam/simota.jpg
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:50 AM   #191
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looks like a BMC CDA...

Although there are copies out there

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...oam/simota.jpg
that's correct, thought I included the actual info! It's a BMC CDA, PN is ACCDA100-150. 150mm dia, 200m length, 100mm outlet on the engine side (their intake duct is 82mm).

It ended up being like $50 cheaper to get it from these guys in the UK vs any US source, and it arrived in under a week.
http://www.ppcgb.com/products/bmc-in...t-accda100-150
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:28 AM   #192
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Haven't really had a chance to drive but have been trying to keep taking things off the list. I want to turn my attention back to the interior and the seats were at the top of the list.

We started by pulling a stock seat out, and taking the mounting rail off the bottom of the Recaro. The Recaros were on Acura Integra mounts which are pretty basic, and not too far off for adapting to the Volvo mount points. First thought was to just make brackets off the Acura mounting tabs, but after looking closer at the 242 seat it looked like we could do something off of the Volvo mounts. I ended up prying/cutting/hammering the stock 242 slider rails apart, so that we just had the two rails that actually mount to the body of the car. Then I took the Acura Recaro mounts and cut every mounting tab off so it was just a basic square, flat bracket. With the Volvo rails mounted the Recaro bracket now sat nicely on top. I spent some time getting things all square, then drilled holes through the flat stock at the front to pass a bolt through to the front mounting points. I did some test fits to check seat position, then bolted things down and tacked it together in the car (didn't burn any big holes in the carpet, yay!).

Pulled them out and finished the welding, which came out very nice credit to Mike K Senior. This ended up being a really smooth, clean install. Couldn't ask for it to be any better really and no worries about funky brackets and safety, not going anywhere now.





The stock Volvo rails are U-shaped, so I cut spacers for the bolts in the front mounting points. Everything fits well and the seats are in a good position. The seats go about as far back as the Volvo seats did, and also basically slide right up to the dashboard so getting in the back will be easy.



The seats themselves were kinda scuzzy from a couple years in the PO's garage.



Did a shampoo scrub and wet vac and they came out pretty much perfect. There's not a single stain on them which impressed me. I need to fix the cut on that inner bolster and get one reclining knob, otherwise I'm really happy with the deal I got on these.



Feel great inside the car! What a difference. I've never had such an aggressive seat and I think I'm going to really like it. Good thing I'm skinny, cause they are seriously narrow. Friends and relatives will grow to hate me as I instruct everyone to lift themselves OVER the bolsters getting in and out of the car instead of crushing them. It actually is not that easy to do with how tall the lowers are. Loving the way they look, and it's nice to see the interior shaping up a bit. It'll be very black inside, but it will be clean and sleek I think.



Also while we had the welder out making seat brackets we hit both of the doors, which had small cracks at the top of the inner door skin. From reading other posts on here it sounds like a pretty common 242 issue.



Now I can make some kind of vapor barrier and get the refurbed door panels on.
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Old 04-07-2015, 11:56 AM   #193
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Old 04-13-2015, 12:58 PM   #194
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Fighting a bit to get the car driveable. Got some good interior work done this weekend, but I drove it ~10 miles to get gas on Saturday and it's running like ****.

Been extremely difficult to cold start since all of the work done this year, and once I drove it I realized my idle and cruise AFR's were extremely rich, I was seeing in the 9:1 range off throttle downhill. Idling in the 10's, albeit smoothly and consistently. As soon as you give it a bit of throttle it swings lean and pegs the wideband at 16:1 (max lean reading on the NGK). With a little positive pressure things come down to more normal levels, but lean back out to the point I wasn't comfortable putting too much into it. Almost as if it's working backwards, too much fuel off throttle, pulls all the fuel when I need it. I tried to get it started yesterday and couldn't even get it to fire, plugs were wet so I'll put a new set of plugs in it before I try to run it again.

Since it's still a 'black box' to me, I tend to get hand-wringy about the ECU stuff. I sent logs off to Kenny and he had the same thoughts we were having in the garage yesterday - something off with the fuel pressure? I had the regulator apart to mod it for the -6 fitting, so there's potential for things to have changed. I know it went back together correctly, and I'm seeing no fuel out of the vaccuum port, so there's no obvious signs that it would be behaving like this. It has a gauge on the regulator body, so I can check base pressure, but I can't see what's happening when I'm driving the car.

Plan is to get a new set of plugs from eeuro on my way home today, and see if I can verify a base pressure reading under extended cranking (assuming I can't get it started). Beyond that, I guess I'd need to run it and get a gauge somewhere where I can watch it while driving.

If it's not the regulator I'm at a loss for mechanical issues. At this point I HOPE to find the regulator bad, so I can just get a new one ordered and look forward to getting things running. Fingers crossed!
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Old 04-13-2015, 01:23 PM   #195
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engine off pump running should show 45psi on the gauge. if you want, you can get a lenth of hose and see if you can pull a vacuum/apply some pressure to the regulator and make sure the gauge moves the way it's supposed to, that should indicate if the regulator is working the way it's supposed to. When you put everything back together, you did put the rail outlet into the fpr inlet port, and the fpr out port goes to the return in the tank, correct? Some regulators have multiple inputs and only one outlet, getting that mixed up would have some interesting side effects.

looking at some of the cold start attempt logs, the cranking pulsewidths are not out of line with what should work, and certainly the pulsewidths when it's indicating crazy afr's aren't out of whack either.
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Old 04-13-2015, 01:34 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
engine off pump running should show 45psi on the gauge. if you want, you can get a lenth of hose and see if you can pull a vacuum/apply some pressure to the regulator and make sure the gauge moves the way it's supposed to, that should indicate if the regulator is working the way it's supposed to. When you put everything back together, you did put the rail outlet into the fpr inlet port, and the fpr out port goes to the return in the tank, correct? Some regulators have multiple inputs and only one outlet, getting that mixed up would have some interesting side effects.

looking at some of the cold start attempt logs, the cranking pulsewidths are not out of line with what should work, and certainly the pulsewidths when it's indicating crazy afr's aren't out of whack either.
Confident I got it plumbed right at least, it's single in single out (plumbed in the same direction as the old setup). Good suggestion on checking it, I'll do some testing tonight and see if I can find anything. It's suspect #1 at this point.
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Old 04-14-2015, 09:00 AM   #197
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Im thinking those Recaro's would look better in my car...

ON a real note... I see you have the AN fitting coming outof the filter, are you running just a hose to the sender or did you modify the sender to somehow adapt with an AN fitting there? any pics?
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:28 AM   #198
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Im thinking those Recaro's would look better in my car...

ON a real note... I see you have the AN fitting coming outof the filter, are you running just a hose to the sender or did you modify the sender to somehow adapt with an AN fitting there? any pics?
I'm obsessed with these seats makes the car feel a lot different vs being perched up on the stock benches sliding around all willy nilly. Much more secure.

Sorry I really failed at taking pics of what was up with the sending unit. I didn't mod it myself, but yeah it's just the sending unit outlet with a -6 bung welded on, pretty simple works great.

Did some diagnostics yesterday, taking Kenny's suggestion of applying vac/press to the top of the FPR diaphragm. We hooked up a remote gauge on a lead and had the pump running and was able to verify that base pressure was set fairly accurately, actually just a wee bit on the low side. We hook a vac line up to the regulator and tee'd in my boost/vac gauge and a length of hose to push air through. We put ~20psi pressure into the top of the regulator with a motive power bleeder and fuel pressure sat at 45psi. The easiest way we had to pull vacuum was a syringe plunger, using that method we saw fuel pressure drop about 4psi under vac, and flex but not really move when pushing pressure in. Hmm.

Since we had a gauge to watch comfortably now, I went to start it. Right away found something unexpeted and interesting - I am intermittently dropping fuel pressure under cranking. Pump would prime to 45psi, then as soon as I started cranking it fell flat. During cranking it bounced up a few times, but it was pretty obvious why the car wasn't starting. I jumped the fuel pump relay socket so the pump was running constantly and the car started basically right away. So, we know there is one issue to chase down.

With the car running I stuck the fuel pressure gauge under the windshield wiper and went for a drive. As before, idle and cruise AFR's are extremely rich. When cruising I saw a consistent fuel pressure around 40psi so nothing was jumping out at me as being a cause for all of the fuel. When I tried to get into boost and the car spikes lean fuel pressure still sat around 40psi. To be honest, I really didn't know what this meant. But we had data so that was good. I sent a rambly email to Kenny then started actually reading and learned quickly I should be seeing a 1:1 slope for MAP vs. FP, where I was getting static pressure under throttle. This all adds up to me as being a regulator issue, at least for the lean condition under throttle. I'm not sure why the idle and cruise are so rich with appropriate pressure, but at this point I'll address the FPR before I give it more worry. Almost seems like the regulator is jammed or sticking. It was very simple to take apart, and I know it went back together in the same way, so will be interesting to see if I can find an issue when I take it apart.

Just put in an order with Summit for an Aeromotive regulator and some more fittings. That will be here Friday, so if I find my Cosmo is junk I can get it swapped out this weekend and be in better shape to drive. If I put a new regulator on and still have the richness down low I'll have to work with Kenny to try and understand what is going on.

Tonight's plan is to get into the wiring and figure out why I'm losing the pump under cranking. Hopefully I can find and fix the issue relatively easily, and there's not some fatal flaw in my power wiring. When I had the car running with the relay in place on Saturday is ran consistently for 20 minutes, so I know it's only dropping under cranking.

Less than two weeks to get it in decent shape for the eeuroparts show. Starting to feel the pressure now.
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:48 AM   #199
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if it loses sync during cranking it'll turn off the fuel pump, but I don't think I saw any sign of that in the logs. I'll look closer at the timing of events to see if maybe it doesn't catch the cranking signal very well.

if the fuel pressure was whacky before I may have bumped everything out of boost to try and get the afrs back in order, that'd explain the creamy richness after the fact.

but I mean come on? who doesn't want their car idling around 10:1 afrs? ;)
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Old 04-14-2015, 12:00 PM   #200
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yeah the cranking sync thing is back
it drops and picks up and drops and picks up during cranking

2 = missing tooth at wrong time

in the running and driving log, it was pegged at 2, but there were no sync losses during that log.
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