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Old 07-15-2016, 02:34 PM   #76
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What travel front?
not enough... i dont know, like 210mm or something.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:10 PM   #77
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Fuel pump died, i fixed it. Exhaust broke in half, i fixed it. Just waiting for something else to break.
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:26 PM   #78
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Heater core. Because **** your couch.
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Old 08-13-2016, 01:36 AM   #79
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I just realized something. I have taller profile tires on the white 245 than what you're running... Using 205/65R15's. So, pretty close to the stock 185R14's in diameter... Might fill in the wheel arches a bit better than the 205/55R15's. On the roads out here, it does pretty well, both on asphalt and gravel.

Anyway, glad to see that you got the 245 back.

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Old 09-03-2016, 01:44 PM   #80
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Heater core. Because **** your couch.
you shut your face, i already had to do the blower motor.

I put some 940HDs in the back with a softer spring rate, 16" x 125lb. Rides nice. Front strut mounts are blown out, going with BNE select plates this time.

I need to build a full exhaust the stuff thats on there is falling apart.
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Old 11-04-2016, 06:59 PM   #81
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Installed poly torque rod bushings, Installed BNE Select strut mounts, bought rotors, need to buy new lines, need to buy pads, need to buy tires. Shes taking on my money, boys.

I went with position "3" for the strut mounts which gives me the most positive caster. However you can not rotate the mount out very far due to some interference between the billet aluminum plate and the inside of the strut tower. Its forcing me to have way to much negative camber due to the fact that my control arms are also extended. I might have to move it to position 1 just so i can tune out some of the negative camber. Sucks because i really wanted the added caster. I might just hack some aluminum off this thing so i can dial the camber out.






Last edited by Jerd; 11-04-2016 at 07:04 PM..
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:41 PM   #82
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I will gladly trade control arms with you.
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Old 11-05-2016, 12:18 PM   #83
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If i did it again i would do 420/220 @ 520mm/sec with a 300lb-325lb spring.

I retract this statement. Im actually learning that the compression damping of 350 is about right, i think what im really missing is rebound damping and slightly more spring rate.

If i could do it again i would go 375/200 @ 520mm/sec w/ a 300lb spring.

Last edited by Jerd; 11-08-2016 at 12:49 AM..
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Old 11-05-2016, 01:28 PM   #84
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So how about the T5?
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Old 11-06-2016, 01:37 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by Jerd View Post

I went with position "3" for the strut mounts which gives me the most positive caster. However you can not rotate the mount out very far due to some interference between the billet aluminum plate and the inside of the strut tower. Its forcing me to have way to much negative camber due to the fact that my control arms are also extended. I might have to move it to position 1 just so i can tune out some of the negative camber. Sucks because i really wanted the added caster. I might just hack some aluminum off this thing so i can dial the camber out.


You have a few options, you can swap the plates left and right so that way it moves the top of the plate out. Thats probably ideal considering you extended the control arms.

Another option is you can trim the plate to get more positive adjustment as is.

You should be able to stay in position 3 though if you want the caster.
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:58 AM   #86
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You have a few options, you can swap the plates left and right so that way it moves the top of the plate out. Thats probably ideal considering you extended the control arms.

Another option is you can trim the plate to get more positive adjustment as is.

You should be able to stay in position 3 though if you want the caster.

I might try swapping sides, but i think i eyeballed it and realized it would be a substantial difference. I will more than likely trim them to fit my particular setup. I think in position 3, with the plates swung full outward, i should have the amount of - camber im after. Obviously this is not the typical setup, i doubt other people are searching for less - camber with these plates.

Really enjoying the added caster btw. Even with my scrub radius, and a rough toe alignment, the car is really trying to drive straight. Haven't had it on a loose surface yet, but im looking forward to it.

Love having a solid strut mount again. Should have done it sooner.

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So how about the T5?
I sold that, probably just going m47... I dont have any power plans for this car, it will forever be slow.
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:43 AM   #87
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New brakes and tires. 205/60/15 cheap all seasons.
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Old 01-19-2017, 02:15 AM   #88
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Last edited by Jerd; 04-29-2019 at 03:15 PM..
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Old 01-19-2017, 02:43 AM   #89
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Hi Jurd
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Old 01-19-2017, 05:39 PM   #90
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do those ziptie chain things rip off under aggressive spinning?
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:30 PM   #91
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^Usually no. They're just a nylon version of the metal clips that keep the end of the cable from sticking out sideways. If you don't have proper tension on the chains, they might break. I don't remember that happening with the set we had for our old '81 Accordion, which did have them, instead of the newer style metal ones.

Anyway, hope to see this beast in Issaquah on the 12th...

-J
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:30 PM   #92
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Sitting since July 18. Battery @ 9 volts. Jumped it, wouldn't run worth a ****. Added 5 gallons of fresh gas, it ran, but really rough. Any time id jab the throttle it would cut out or die. Removed the air filter and it ran great, gave that a good clean and slapped it back on. Trans fluid was low and a small puddle under the car would be a good indication of where it went, topped it up. Registered and insured it. It was driving fine then started dieing randomly / not starting. I noticed the fuel pump was off (its loud as **** so its noticeable when its not on). Took the fuel pump relay apart and cleaned the contacts, haven't had any problems sense. Battery voltage was sitting around 12.1v after driving it for about an hour or so, i knew it needed a good charge so i went to harbor freight and bought a charger. Looking forward to driving this again. Needs a new exhaust really bad, lots of holes.
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Old 03-24-2019, 12:26 AM   #93
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Right on.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:13 AM   #94
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Glad to see this car isn't razor blades!
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'81 242t, DD, project, epic funmobile.
build thread; http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=251729
'92 244. 601 red, stock, awesome.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=292524
'92 245. 601 red, b230ft/aw71, 16t.
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Old 04-06-2019, 08:47 PM   #95
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Thanks guys.

My new found motivation...

Stitched the passenger side seat back together.


Installed some 50mil sound deadening in the font doors and new Skar audio 5.25" comps.



Poly bushings in the panhard.


Replaced the passenger side rear lugs from when the wheel fell off. Reinstalled 1.3" wheel spacers with the correct length shouldered lug nuts.


Going to do a 2.5" over axle exhaust once i decide on a welder...


Raised the rear up about 1"
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Old 04-13-2019, 05:01 AM   #96
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how much of a difference did the sound deadening in the door make?

do you miss the golden eagle? i do.
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Old 04-13-2019, 01:30 PM   #97
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how much of a difference did the sound deadening in the door make?

do you miss the golden eagle? i do.
As far as cutting down on road noise just doing the doors did pretty much nothing. Closing them sounds more solid... For 80-200hz driver reproduction it made a pretty noticeable difference. I think doing the roof will make a big difference in sub 80hz frequencies. I’m sure the floor would probably help reduce road noise. I have seen where people get 100% coverage on all panels with this stuff and said it made a big difference. I don’t think I’ll attempt that but I do plan on adding more.

Yah I miss it, learned a lot on that car. Had a lot of good times in it.

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Old 04-29-2019, 03:10 PM   #98
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Finally have a Tig welder at home now. Ran more 1/2" emt and pulled some 8awg thhn for a dedicated 50A circuit. 225A should be enough for most anything i need to do hopefully.


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Old 04-29-2019, 03:39 PM   #99
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That looks like such a nice setup
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Old 04-30-2019, 12:54 AM   #100
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Your garage is cleaner than Harlards.


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