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Old 07-03-2017, 08:17 PM   #51
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As I mentioned in an older post, I had ordered some tie rods and other items from Rock Auto that had were on clearance at the time. It was the last tie rods that the had in stock and a good deal to boot. They were Beck-Arnley brand, who used to repackage a lot of NOS parts or use good aftermarket suppliers. Figured they would be better than some of the modern Chi-Com parts.
Went out to install them, and guess what.....
They are both left hand tie rods. Damn! I never paid attention.
Oh well, IPD to the rescue. Should have the correct passenger side one in about a week.
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:07 PM   #52
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I had posted in the past about how the original D-Jet wiring harness had been previously repaired, and I plan on redoing it. I thought about what I could do to install a multi pin connector of some sort instead of just splicing the wires.
I did some googling and came up with these:



Painless Wring offers several sizes from 2 wire to 15 wire connectors. They come with male / female connectors and the connector pins. I bought a couple of 12 wire connectors. When finished, it will be similar to the connection for the main engine harness on the latter model 240's.
I'm going to run to Lowe's 1st thing in the morning to pick up a pack of wire labels so I can cut the wires and label them, and make sure they mate up correctly.
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Old 07-23-2017, 10:27 PM   #53
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Great work and nice build! I really like the look of the 73' 140s.
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:46 PM   #54
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Haven't updated this in a year. Wow!
Finally decided to go out and assemble the M40 gearbox today. Got it back together, I hope it's right!
I will go out a little later and install the shift rods, shift balls / springs, and the shifter cover. No pics, there are plenty online of M40's.
Good news for my other car, a 1966 Buick Wildcat convertible..... I'll be picking up a pair of nice rust-free fenders for it tomorrow evening.
More to come. I plan on taking the block & crank to a local shop next week also, to check them out and let me know what I need. I also need them to remove the oil galley plugs, I could not get them out. Hopefully it comes back that I can use standard pistons, I picked up a set from Rock Auto on clearance last year ($50!). They are Beck-Arnley, which used to rebox high quality parts.
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:37 PM   #55
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Installed the shift forks and rods, and the shifter cover with a new tunnel seal. The tunnel seal is for a 240, but should work on my late 142.
I think it's time to clean off my work bench. Now the this is back together, I'm going to put up some shelves and an LED light below them.
I'm also going to make a cradle for this, I'll use some plywood and 2X4 so I can bolt it to it and put it on a shelf till it gets reinstalled. Then I hope I did everything correctly!

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Old 07-29-2018, 08:57 AM   #56
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Scored a vintage AMCO leather shift knob off of Ebay. They're quite a bit pricier than back in the early 80's when I worked at European Car Parts in STL.

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Old 04-04-2019, 08:02 AM   #57
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Not much has been going on recently, so I decided to do some work on the car.
Rebuilding the auxiliary air valve. Component & reassembly picks coming tonight.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 04-04-2019, 07:30 PM   #58
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Reassembly of the AAV. Hope it works after all of this. Going to let it sit overnight before testing.











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Last edited by sksmith; 04-04-2019 at 07:39 PM..
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Old 04-04-2019, 08:27 PM   #59
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the crossmember is perfection!
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:45 PM   #60
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Thanks Shaned.
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Old 04-05-2019, 10:12 AM   #61
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Lookin’ good!
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Old 04-05-2019, 12:38 PM   #62
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Thanks Derek.
Visited a machine shop near me for lunch. Now I need to put the trunk liners back in my daily 330i. Changed the struts & shocks a couple of weeks ago. Getting to the rears required removing the liners. Getting them out wasn't bad, getting them back in is a pain in the ass. Guess I'll be doing that tomorrow so I can load my block, head, crank, etc. so that everything can be cleaned / checked before I order bearings. I picked up std. pistons off Rockauto on clearance, hope I don't need to oversize the bores! I couldn't pass them up for what they sold for.
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:38 AM   #63
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Block, head, crank & rods delivered to the machine shop (finally!).
Going home tonight to start removing the rear end for cleaning.
More updates will be coming.
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Old 04-11-2019, 01:36 PM   #64
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Intake manifold before & after. Looking for my cold start valve gasket. One doesn't come in the head gasket set, going to check the bottom end set.
Now, for the intake porn......
Before:








After:









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Old 04-11-2019, 10:06 PM   #65
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And starting on the rear axle.



Wow, ****ty photo!

Steve

Last edited by sksmith; 04-17-2019 at 07:59 PM..
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Old 04-12-2019, 08:19 AM   #66
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Intake manifold looks great; what did you use to get it looking like that?
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Old 04-12-2019, 06:23 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by didenpx View Post
Intake manifold looks great; what did you use to get it looking like that?
First, I cleaned it with a citrus cleaner, can't remember which one. I soaked it in our laundry sink over night and then rinsed it really well.
Then I ran it thru the dishwasher (this took some coaxing.... ).
It still wasn't clean enough for me, so I sprayed it with Easy Off oven cleaner. I let it sit for awhile, then sprayed the runners & inlet again. I stuck a kitchen brush into it & scrubbed those. They still have some carbon, but I got them clean enough.
After about an hour or so, I sprayed it off with a Chinazon high-pressure hose attachment.
Then I put it away for a couple of weeks.....
I took off work yesterday & today, so I got it out, plugged all of the inlet holes & sandblasted it with glass bead.
I blew it off with compressed air, made sure to get any that may have gotten past the plugs into the runners. Then cleaned it with Eastwood PRE and gave it a couple of coats of VHT High Heat Satin Clear paint.
The rest of the nipples, throttle plate, yada yada yada, were soaked in lacquer thinner then bead blasted. I used a brass wheel on my drill to shine them, cleaned them with denatured alcohol, then painted them with VHT High Heat Gloss Clear paint.
I used some Teflon tape on the nipples.
Thanks for the complement!!!
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Old 04-12-2019, 06:41 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sksmith View Post
First, I cleaned it with a citrus cleaner, can't remember which one. I soaked it in our laundry sink over night and then rinsed it really well.
Then I ran it thru the dishwasher (this took some coaxing.... ).
It still wasn't clean enough for me, so I sprayed it with Easy Off oven cleaner. I let it sit for awhile, then sprayed the runners & inlet again. I stuck a kitchen brush into it & scrubbed those. They still have some carbon, but I got them clean enough.
After about an hour or so, I sprayed it off with a Chinazon high-pressure hose attachment.
Then I put it away for a couple of weeks.....
I took off work yesterday & today, so I got it out, plugged all of the inlet holes & sandblasted it with glass bead.
I blew it off with compressed air, made sure to get any that may have gotten past the plugs into the runners. Then cleaned it with Eastwood PRE and gave it a couple of coats of VHT High Heat Satin Clear paint.
The rest of the nipples, throttle plate, yada yada yada, were soaked in lacquer thinner then bead blasted. I used a brass wheel on my drill to shine them, cleaned them with denatured alcohol, then painted them with VHT High Heat Gloss Clear paint.
I used some Teflon tape on the nipples.
Thanks for the complement!!!
Steve
That was a lot of work but it paid off. I've got mine set aside and have yet to really start working on it...maybe next week. Thanks for the tips!
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Old 04-13-2019, 09:47 PM   #69
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Differential is out. Had to cut one of the lower control arm nuts, it was stuck! I don't own a real torch, so I tried my MAP that I've used for some plumbing but it didn't get it hot enough.
Pulled the old exhaust and sat it by the alley dumpster. It should be gone tomorrow, the scrap metal scavengers will get it.
The underside is really clean on this. The shock mounts are rust free, as is the whole underside and wheel wells. Soaking the front rear control arm nuts / bolts in Kroil overnight. I hope I don't have to cut any more, that was a PITA!
Some pics....










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Old 04-14-2019, 01:44 PM   #70
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Nothing too exciting today. Got the upper & lower rear control arms out, the parking brake cable removed, & the brake proportioning valves out.
Here's where anal-me allows a little more scope creep. I'm going to remove the brake & fuel lines and clean them / clear coat them.
I need to press out the control arm bushings, but it got cold today (upper 30's) and I'm feeling lazy today. Besides, it's warm in the house and the Yankees are playing the White Sox, so I'm relaxing the rest of the day.
The scrap metal scavengers already got the old exhaust, figured it would make it till Monday but thought wrong!
Here are some boring pics of the fuel & brake lines. The car was undercoated after these were installed. All of the brackets / lines are covered in it. I'll cap the ends and scrub them with kerosene and a Scotchbrite pads, like I did the front lines.









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Old 04-17-2019, 08:07 PM   #71
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Did what I've been dreading....... Drained the fuel tank. Flipping gas running up my arm, stinks, I hate dealing with it!
Ordered some plug sockets, of course I didn't get a set that goes large enough to remove the tank filter.
Back to Amazon.....
One thing I wasn't planning on replacing, because it works, is/was the fuel pump. When I removed the shield, it looks like it is leaking. I'll have to give it a good inspection when I take it off.
Might have to look for one at some point, don't need it right away.
Steve
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:01 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sksmith View Post
One thing I wasn't planning on replacing, because it works, is/was the fuel pump. When I removed the shield, it looks like it is leaking. I'll have to give it a good inspection when I take it off.
Might have to look for one at some point, don't need it right away.
Steve
Steve - check in with Planetman for a fuel pump solution that won't leave you hunting for one of the Bosch units....I went with his solution.
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Old 04-18-2019, 07:40 AM   #73
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Paul,
Yeah I will definitely check with Hiperformance.
I've read that the Datsun 280Z pump is basically the same pump also. But that's going to be down the road a bit for me.
Thanks,
Steve
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:27 PM   #74
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Removed the fuel lines & cleaned off all of the undercoating with kerosene. Works pretty good, but man, my hands are sore. I used to play drums & now starting to get arthritis. Time to go get some Aspercream!
Anyway, I'll finish cleaning them and the brackets the a brass wheel on my drill, then shoot them with some high temp clear.
Steve

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Old 04-23-2019, 07:12 AM   #75
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No pics but big progress last night.
My trunk lock somehow locked and the key no longer works. In all attempts to open it, so I can remove the fuel tank, I thought "remove the rear seat".
Easier said than done!
I have read "remove the seat bottom, bend out the tabs, and just push up". Well, I don't know if my car is an anomaly, but that isn't the case.
The seat back has hooks that fit into the package shelf steel, with rubber grommets in the steel. Everything I've seen / heard was that there are clips secured to the rear bulkhead & the seat clips onto them.
I pushed & pushed before I finally figured out what the hell was going on. I inadvertently tore up the fiberboard package shelf cover before I figured this out. Nothing that can't be corrected, but still....
So finally, the seat is out. I had been told on the FB 140's site that I could unlatch the trunk with a coat hanger. This may have worked, except I still have the fiber trunk covers in place. Couldn't see the latching mechanism.
But I could see the two 1/2" bolts holding the trunk lid strike plate. I had to use every 3/8" extension that I own to reach into the trunk just far enough to remove those bolts, and viola! The trunk is open!!
Tonight will be removing the fuel tank.
Oh, before I started this, I power washed the belly of the can with Purple Power followed by high pressure water. Once the fuel tank is out, I'll be finishing the underside.
Then the new exhaust, the cleaned fuel / rear brake lines, & differential go in.
Steve
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