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Old 04-11-2019, 10:04 PM   #176
77volvo245
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All stock 240 wheel wells are offset from the rear wheels. Are you running adjustable torque rods?
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Old 04-11-2019, 10:21 PM   #177
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I have them, but they aren't installed yet. I have every adjustable suspension part available that I could find, the only ones not in my hands yet are Bens adjustable rear trailing arms and rear JRZ Pro coilovers. I have everything else that I could find. None of it is installed yet tho. Waiting to get it on my buddies lift, my garage floor is ancient asphalt with pot holes.
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Old 04-12-2019, 07:43 AM   #178
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The rear axle swings through an arc. At stock ride height, the wheels sit more or less in the middle of the wheel well. As you swing through the arc to full compression, the axle moves towards the back of the car. That's why when you lower one, it offsets the wheels towards the rear -- which just happens to move them closer to the part of the wheel well that is most likely to interfere with the bigger wheels and tires. I trimmed that part of the wheel well lip for more clearance on mine. Some folks shorten the lower rear control arm a bit to move the wheel center back towards the front of the car at a lower ride height. Others drill out the spot welds between the inner and outer fender and jack the lower/rear of the outer fender further away from the body/butt-cheek - then weld in a "filler" strip to close up the gap to gain a lot more clearance. Adjustable (or adjusting) the upper control arms changes the pinion angle, but won't do much of anything to center the wheel in the opening. Of course, adjusting the Panhard can help center the axle from side to side if you find you're closer on one side than the other.
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Old 04-12-2019, 07:56 PM   #179
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Thanks for the great explanation! There's nothing left to trim, I already did that. I'm holding off on doing anything further until I have all the parts in place, nothing will be the same so I don't really know how far to take things. I did order 1/2" spacers that fit on top of the rear spring, so that will get me around for now.

In other news, I contacted the engine builder for a few reasons, mostly what the trucks VIN was so I can order parts easier. My original contact there was fired, one of the reasons was he didn't document things very well. I asked what was done to build my engine to take boost reliably and he (the original guy) said Texas Speed custom VCM cam, tune, 42lb injectors (need replaced for boost), ARP hardware, dished pistons, and here is the important bit H BEAM RODS! It doesn't have those, I looked today.

My new contact told me they always use the newer style heavy duty I beam rods, good for over 1000 hp, and sure enough that's what's in there. Now I have to check that it has the dished pistons...the inspection camera wasn't working so I have to get a new one. Another annoying thing is that the engine was painted, who paints an aluminum engine?

My new contact told me that the cam upgrade includes 0.660 lift LS6 valve springs and hardened push rods, so that's good.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:12 PM   #180
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I'm going to be a little careful with my wording on this update, I'm not very happy at the moment...Because of the above post I felt I needed to look at stuff a bit closer. I got my bore scope and took some pics. I was repeatedly told I had dished pistons. Obviously I do not. I question if the pistons are even new, if they are they have an appalling level of quality control, tons of little imperfections.





I was able to read the part numbers on top of the piston but cannot find them through Googling:
12090
350 16
305 A8

I am hoping they will attempt to make this right, I know they can only do so much, but I should at least get some money back. Installing the pistons I want is going to involve disassembling the motor, machine shop measuring since no one knows how much the bore was increased, basically rebuilding my freshly rebuilt motor because their guy lied to me and made me pay for parts that I obviously did not get.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:55 PM   #181
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Given all that and the paint - you sure the block is aluminum?
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Old 04-20-2019, 10:04 PM   #182
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I had the same concern! It is aluminum, I triple checked with magnets, the heads have the proper 799 casting marks also. I would be throwing a dam fit if it wasn't, I wouldn't be posting here, I'd be on a road trip to kick some ass haha.
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Old 04-20-2019, 10:13 PM   #183
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Also, any ideas on how to handle the situation would be appreciated, different perspectives and all that. I am going to contact them and calmly explain that I did not get what I paid for, and that I can provide several emails and text messages to back up my claim, and ask how they propose to solve this issue. I would ask for the cost of Cometic gaskets to lower the compression for my turbo build, but the pistons currently in the engine are unacceptable. They are known to be crap from everything I have read.
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Old 04-21-2019, 12:31 AM   #184
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Get a junkyard engine to keep the project going and talk to a lawyer.
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Thank you very much everybody... i now feel sufficiently retarded and will go cry in the corner...
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Old 04-21-2019, 10:09 PM   #185
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The stock engine is still installed, running on MS, so thats not a problem, the L33 is on an engine stand still, but ya, it might be lawyer time. I am going to give them 1 chance to make it ok, IDK how that is even possible now since the wrong pistons were installed, even though I have emails, texts, and a youtube vid labeled "turbo ready",it need to go to a machine shop to ensure we get the right pistons, which means taking apart my freshly rebuilt motor. I will email them tomorrow and we will see if lawyers need to be involved. Hopefully they will realize its cheaper and easier to give me my $ back than to deal with the lawyers.
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Old 04-21-2019, 11:28 PM   #186
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Does it have the 5.3 lettering on the block?
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Old 04-21-2019, 11:34 PM   #187
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I was under the impression the L33 motors were gen 3 24x aluminum blocks with gen 4 rods and flat top pistons from the factory, which is why they cost so much. If you paid for a forged piston I see the problem but if it's just a concern of compression ratio I wouldn't worry about it. I think the l33's were like 9.9 vs the normal dished piston 5.3's being 9.5. As long as the ring gaps were opened up it shouldn't have a problem making tons of power. I would almost prefer the flat tops to make it a little nicer to drive out of boost.
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Old 04-21-2019, 11:47 PM   #188
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Originally Posted by 55superbeetle View Post
I was under the impression the L33 motors were gen 3 24x aluminum blocks with gen 4 rods and flat top pistons from the factory, which is why they cost so much. If you paid for a forged piston I see the problem but if it's just a concern of compression ratio I wouldn't worry about it. I think the l33's were like 9.9 vs the normal dished piston 5.3's being 9.5. As long as the ring gaps were opened up it shouldn't have a problem making tons of power. I would almost prefer the flat tops to make it a little nicer to drive out of boost.
They almost look like lq9 pistons
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:33 AM   #189
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The gauges have so many wires because they have data logger outputs as well as a high or low trigger. If you're doing all the logging/failsafe stuff in your ecu you probably won't use most of the wires.
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Old 04-22-2019, 06:41 PM   #190
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It has 5.3 lettering on the block.

I'm sure the ring gaps were not opened up, but that is something I could check/do without a major hassle. Unfortunately I don't know what I paid for because they guy never answered my request for a parts list, never wrote it down anywhere, and apparently they can't find their receipts, probably because the receipts don't exist.

55superbeetle, that explains why I keep getting those two compression ratios when trying to determine the stock ratio, I have heard both numbers with no explanation of which is correct. Thanks! It does have Gen 4 rods, if what I read about identifying them from the shape of the end cap is correct. I feel a little better after reading the ring gap thing, it just seems 9.9 is a little high for boost, but I am far from an expert on that. I guess lower boost, bigger intercooler, haha.

I tried to look at a ton of pistons to determine what they are, no luck.
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Old 04-22-2019, 10:52 PM   #191
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If the ring gaps are opened up it should be fine, I run pisswater can 91 on 10.1:1 compression at about 15psi right now
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Old 04-22-2019, 11:01 PM   #192
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Ok thanks, I have 93 available everywhere right now. I guess you have a pretty tight tune? I just wanted to build something bulletproof that I can keep for a very long time, and this piston thing is upsetting. I haven't contacted them yet because I have been a bit preoccupied, hopefully an update on why tomorrow
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:32 PM   #193
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Oh my tune is all over the place lol. Just be reasonable with timing and have ample fuel and you'll be fine. I've been hammering on my 6.0 for years with no issues
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Old 04-23-2019, 08:52 PM   #194
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Haha, ok. It's looking like it will be N/A for a while anyway.

In some other news, I just bought this car, 1978. I'll do a proper showroom intro when it gets here, having it shipped. I couldn't drive it home because it's 3.5 hours from my house and the coolant comes out as fast as you can put it in. My driveway will be pretty colorful haha.



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Old 04-24-2019, 01:17 AM   #195
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Haha. Looks really nice. Makes me miss my old ‘78.

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Old 04-24-2019, 04:56 PM   #196
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Thanks, it needs some love but it is shiny haha. I have to undo some minor hack jobs, like screws where there should be plastic fasteners, some iffy wiring, someone painted the valve cover yellow, etc. The paint job doesn't go into the engine bay or trunk, missing a drivers door panel. But it does have Konis, springs, VX cam, braces,etc, and its very rust free (that is a relative term in the NE) for this area, and it sounds very good. Officially arriving on Friday, so I will show it off then.
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:14 AM   #197
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Nice 78!
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:58 PM   #198
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Thanks! I can't wait to get it here and sorted out.

L33 engine news: I talked to the company I purchased the engine from today. They were very cool about the whole thing and put me on with the owner of the company. He was very knowledgeable and we talked through what I want to do and how they can set the situation straight. Apparently the current configuration, using something like a GT45 or 68mm turbo, can handle about 10 PSI. He recommended a set of refinished 317 heads from the 6.0. He said that combo would be fine for over 20 PSI.
So the matter is settled, they are sending me a refurbished set of aluminum (I had a choice of that or cast) 317 heads and I am happy. They would have built me a different motor, but that seemed a bit extreme to me, plus a hassle to ship my original one.
I was impressed with the way they handled it.
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Old 05-07-2019, 09:30 PM   #199
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Bump for a couple goodies, R Sport repop gauge cluster with adapter for early dash and Stack Pro oil temp, pressure, and coolant temp gauges.



Also got an Autometer boost gauge, and AEM wideband, but the wideband is currently installed in my brother Harley. Who reads plugs anymore haha, use a wideband

Got my 317 heads also. The best part is I can keep my 799 heads, and have a higher compression ratio until it's turbo time. Been going to my friends shop and working on whatever is there to clear the path for my car. This included head studs on a Ford Triton V10 that sucked, and run far away from those turds. Next one should be fun though, Buick Grand National needs some love.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:15 PM   #200
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Thanks, it needs some love but it is shiny haha. I have to undo some minor hack jobs, like screws where there should be plastic fasteners, some iffy wiring, someone painted the valve cover yellow, etc. The paint job doesn't go into the engine bay or trunk, missing a drivers door panel. But it does have Konis, springs, VX cam, braces,etc, and its very rust free (that is a relative term in the NE) for this area, and it sounds very good. Officially arriving on Friday, so I will show it off then.
It was a pnw car sold a couple years ago.
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