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Old 05-26-2019, 08:56 PM   #1
xDread92x
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Default 92 240 AC Rebuild

Hey All,

So i bought the R12 to R134A retrofit kit from advance auto and the low pressure side adapter fitting doesn't seem to fit my receiver/dryer.

I am thinking this kit is for domestic cars only??

Did I just lose my $12.99??
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Old 05-26-2019, 09:47 PM   #2
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I just replaced the compressor and drier in my '90 245.
If the fitting you are asking about is the very large one between the drier and the hose going into the cab,I believe that is Volvo specific. My friend helping with the work, worked at an AC shop for years and has not seen that fitting before. Also, if I can remember correctly that is a high pressure line.
The low side fitting should be on the back of the compressor toward the left side of the car. The fitting on my original compressor pointed toward the back of the car. The fitting on my reman four seasons compressor points towards the frame rail.

Hope that helps.
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Old 05-26-2019, 09:55 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by xDread92x View Post
Hey All,

So i bought the R12 to R134A retrofit kit from advance auto and the low pressure side adapter fitting doesn't seem to fit my receiver/dryer.

I am thinking this kit is for domestic cars only??

Did I just lose my $12.99??
I thought they were all the same thread pitch if r12. Those 'retrofits' fit all the pre 93 volvos I’ve worked on. Rent a vacuum pump and some manifold gauges if you wanna do it right. Well, doing it 'right' would consist of getting all the mineral oil out of the system and refilling with pag 46. But you will probably be okay.
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Old 05-26-2019, 10:30 PM   #4
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Yea i plan to buy a new compressor and condenser and bought a new receiver/dryer. I tried the retrofitting low side adapter on the new receiver/drier but it acts like it wont fit. Maybe its user error.

I bought some ac gauges and plan to vacuum the system etc. I don’t see an oring for the low side adapter, should there be one?
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Old 05-27-2019, 10:32 AM   #5
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Well, doing it 'right' would consist of getting all the mineral oil out of the system and refilling with pag 46.
Pag oil is incompatible in former R-12 systems. Use esther oil as recommend by Volvo.

OP do you have a copy of the conversion greenbook?
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Old 05-27-2019, 10:46 AM   #6
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Pag oil is incompatible in former R-12 systems. Use esther oil as recommend by Volvo.

OP do you have a copy of the conversion greenbook?
Why is that? Pag 46 is incompatable with r12 itself. But removing all mineral oil, filling with pag 46 and r134a works totally fine.

Source: I’ve done it multiple times.

Pag 46 will not mix with mineral oil, but ester oil will. Having flushed my A/C components and then replacing the compresssor and R/D, and filling with pag 46, i have had good results. By the way, you should always replace the R/D (which I see that you said you are).
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Old 05-27-2019, 10:51 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by xDread92x View Post
Yea i plan to buy a new compressor and condenser and bought a new receiver/dryer. I tried the retrofitting low side adapter on the new receiver/drier but it acts like it wont fit. Maybe its user error.

I bought some ac gauges and plan to vacuum the system etc. I donít see an oring for the low side adapter, should there be one?
Are you asking about an oring on the inside or outside of your new fitting? I canít recall if thereís one on the inside, but there shouldnít be one on the outside. The outside portion is sealed by the oring in the manifold gauges themselves.
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Old 05-27-2019, 11:31 AM   #8
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I don't think I saw a mention of the expansion valve replacement. If you are going to this detail each part of the system should be disassembled, blown out with brake cleaner and air and install new 'O' rings everywhere soaked with compressor oil.
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Old 05-27-2019, 11:54 AM   #9
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Why is that? Pag 46 is incompatable with r12 itself. But removing all mineral oil, filling with pag 46 and r134a works totally fine.

Source: I’ve done it multiple times.
I'm just telling you what the greenbook says to do. If they thought PAG oil was the correct lubricant, they would have specified its use.
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:51 PM   #10
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I'm just telling you what the greenbook says to do. If they thought PAG oil was the correct lubricant, they would have specified its use.
Pag is probably a little more harsh on orings, but itís also cheap and readily available everywhere, and works fine
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Old 05-28-2019, 12:47 AM   #11
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Yea i was asking about inside the low pressure side. I don't see an oring in the kit so i guess it does not go on the inside.

Could anyone tell me all important o ring replacement areas?
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Old 05-28-2019, 01:22 AM   #12
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The 'O' rings are located at any point connections are made. Just follow the hoses from high pressure port on the compressor to the return low pressure port. All are important to keeping the gas in. With the extent you are going in parts replacement I would suggest that you plan to replace all the 'O' rings.
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Old 05-28-2019, 01:37 AM   #13
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Yea thats why i was asking. I plan to replace all. Rub them with oil prior to fitment?

I need to get the low side figured out as far as the 134a adapter.

Receiver/Dryer was bought from ebay, not sure if that matters.
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Old 05-28-2019, 06:37 AM   #14
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Yea thats why i was asking. I plan to replace all. Rub them with oil prior to fitment?

I need to get the low side figured out as far as the 134a adapter.

Receiver/Dryer was bought from ebay, not sure if that matters.
Yes, lube your NEW O-rings with mineral oil as you make each connection; don't overtorque these weak threads.

Use Ester Oil for all vehicles converted from R12 to R134a; PAG oil is for OEM vehicles designed with R134a from the factory.

Vacuum down for minimum of an hour to allow all of the water/non-condensibles (air) to be removed.

Learn how to bleed the air from your charging hose (youTube) so you don't reintroduce air back into the system.

If your old compressor failed and put debris in the system, you need to completely flush from compressor to orifice tube; if you vehicle is a 91+ then you have the orifice tube.

If you want further 411, shoot me a PM.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:46 AM   #15
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The second post down has an updated service bulletin from 1995 that can be downloaded. I haven't seen the greenbook for this though. I checked oz volvo and it was not there.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...=52200#p261191
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:21 AM   #16
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Yea that looks like a good resource.

How necessary would replacing the evaporator be??
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Old 05-29-2019, 03:05 AM   #17
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I do my A/C work thru the low side. The compressor on my 1990 240 accepted the Parts-Store R134 adapter.

Recover, vac, charge, and see if it works.

People here seem to like envirosafe refrigerant.
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Old 05-29-2019, 05:32 AM   #18
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How necessary would replacing the evaporator be??
Replacing the evaporator seems a little extreme but I would replace the expansion valve.

The bill for conversion under that service advisory even back in '95 surly would be well over $1000.
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Old 05-29-2019, 09:18 AM   #19
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Replacing the evaporator seems a little extreme but I would replace the expansion valve.

The bill for conversion under that service advisory even back in '95 surly would be well over $1000.
HA! My 740 came with a $4k+ Brentwood Volvo receipt for all new ac stuff, and a rear main seal. And the compressor was some aftermarket junk that leaked like a sieve.
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Old 05-29-2019, 11:45 AM   #20
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Don't vent refrigerant to the atmoshpere. I use a machine to recover it. It actually goes back into other cars!

Honestly, if I were in your situation, I would just first inspect the system for leaks (oily residue), buy a can with a guage and see if there is ANY PRESSURE. if it's at 0 psi there was a leak. If it's up to 60-80 psi static, there is SOME refrigerant in there.

If it's at 0psi you lost all the refrigerant. I would then just charge thru the Low side on the back of the compressor (via adapter) and put 80 percent of the R12 spec in there.

I bought a 1990 740 that was sitting for years and all I did was vac and charge, and it's been working for almost a year so far.

Unless you see a big oily leak somewhere, I wouldn't even worry about adding oil right now.
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:05 PM   #21
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Don't vent refrigerant to the atmoshpere. I use a machine to recover it. It actually goes back into other cars!

Honestly, if I were in your situation, I would just first inspect the system for leaks (oily residue), buy a can with a guage and see if there is ANY PRESSURE. if it's at 0 psi there was a leak. If it's up to 60-80 psi static, there is SOME refrigerant in there.

If it's at 0psi you lost all the refrigerant. I would then just charge thru the Low side on the back of the compressor (via adapter) and put 80 percent of the R12 spec in there.

I bought a 1990 740 that was sitting for years and all I did was vac and charge, and it's been working for almost a year so far.

Unless you see a big oily leak somewhere, I wouldn't even worry about adding oil right now.
You can vent r134a to atmosphere, just don’t post on TB about it. The most important step is going to be a deep, long, strong vacuum to remove moisture. I recommend 1 hour, then close gauges and turn off pump, let sit and boil for 1 hour, then vacuum for an additional hour. That’s a 3 hour process, 2 of which will be spent vacuuming. But replace your receiver drier BEFORE vacuuming, obviously.

Also, those cans with the gauges built in are utterly useless. Massive waste of money. Walmart sells r134a cans for $4.88 in my area, then you just need a can tap ($10) and you can RENT manifold gauges and vacuum pump for free. That’s it.

All in all you could have functional AC for:
Receiver drier: $15
Refrigerant: $10-$15
R134a can tap: $10

For a total of $35-$40. Well, don’t forget the r12>r134a low side adapter, but it looks like you already have that.



OP I’m not a pro but I’ve been running a very small automotive AC side business in my area since last year. Many happy customers and no returns yet lol. I would be happy to walk you through step by step if you need help.
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Old 05-29-2019, 01:00 PM   #22
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I vacuum for 3 minutes.
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Old 05-29-2019, 01:04 PM   #23
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I vacuum for 3 minutes.
Thatís a hack way of doing it...but okay. Iím all for hack repairs that donít make a difference in every day functionality, but moisture in ac systems is a killer of performance, and compressors. Dealt with that 3 times in the past week. Owners ac pressures were spot on but ac performance sucked. Deep vacuum and I watched moisture boil off and ambient air disappeared. Once recharged performance was back where it should be.
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Old 05-29-2019, 01:33 PM   #24
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You're the hack that vents to atmosphere.
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:09 PM   #25
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Rational thought and logic and manufacturer's advice is nothing compared to pompous windbag that brags about doing everything as halfass and hillbilly as possible.
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Source: I’ve done it multiple times.
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OP I’m not a pro but I’ve been running a very small automotive AC side business in my area since last year. Many happy customers and no returns yet lol. I would be happy to walk you through step by step if you need help
.

Doesn't even realize that "fixin" a complex system and not have it break in a year is not evidence of good work. Using good practice, proper technique, and correct components, these systems last for a decade.

He's done it multiple times, and what? No explosions? Therefore, it's good practice according to this unattainable.

Sheer stupidity is common, unfortunately mclovin here can't recognize it.
He's the most dangerous and tragic of the morons, the one convinced that he us actually brilliant.
And instead of having it just affect him, he not only pollutes mother earth, and cheats and half asses the locals, he brags about his incompetence, and offers it here.

Quote:
I would be happy to walk you through step by step if you need help.
NO ONE should follow your advice, and you should be confined to OT.
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Well keep us updated on how your dumbass plan goes.
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