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Old 05-29-2019, 03:05 PM   #26
iHateVolvoPeople
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Originally Posted by apachechef View Post
Rational thought and logic and manufacturer's advice is nothing compared to pompous windbag that brags about doing everything as halfass and hillbilly as possible.

.

Doesn't even realize that "fixin" a complex system and not have it break in a year is not evidence of good work. Using good practice, proper technique, and correct components, these systems last for a decade.

He's done it multiple times, and what? No explosions? Therefore, it's good practice according to this unattainable.

Sheer stupidity is common, unfortunately mclovin here can't recognize it.
He's the most dangerous and tragic of the morons, the one convinced that he us actually brilliant.
And instead of having it just affect him, he not only pollutes mother earth, and cheats and half asses the locals, he brags about his incompetence, and offers it here.



NO ONE should follow your advice, and you should be confined to OT.
Okay bub, you do you, Iíll do me. I own multiple old ass cars and every single one blows 40F vent temps. So that is my empirical evidence that suggests that no one gives a **** about what you think is right or wrong. I probably have a greater understanding of the HVAC world than the majority of the community on here. Whether or not you want to believe it, I am probably a lot more intelligent than you (think I am).
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Old 05-29-2019, 03:06 PM   #27
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You're the hack that vents to atmosphere.
I didn’t say I did this, I just said you *can* do this. Vacuuming for 3 minutes is a massive hack. Stick to your lab scopes and no start diagnosis.
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Old 05-29-2019, 04:23 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by iHateVolvoPeople View Post
Okay bub, you do you, Iíll do me. I own multiple old ass cars and every single one blows 40F vent temps. So that is my empirical evidence that suggests that no one gives a **** about what you think is right or wrong. I probably have a greater understanding of the HVAC world than the majority of the community on here. Whether or not you want to believe it, I am probably a lot more intelligent than you (think I am).
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Whether or not you want to believe it
I cannot take that on faith while all the evidence says otherwise.

Quote:
I am probably a lot more intelligent than you (think I am).
There has been no evidence in intelligence or wisdom in any of your posts here.
I am not throwing insults, not trying to demean you, but you need to realize your posts do not portray anything above average intelligence.
They do show arrogance, obstinance, and a real lack of any growth since you have started here. This is a dangerous combo.
Back up your claim to "intelligence" You have not shown it on turbobricks.

Only a limited understanding that has emboldened you to assume you have a clue.
Unless you are a very dedicated troll that scrubs any sign of intelligence from your account, and have painstakingly cultivated this remarkable sham...
If so, you are intelligent, and I am impressed that you never break character.

No, frankly, your posts don't back up our claims to "intelligence" at all.
YOU:Bad advice, limited understanding of basic concepts, worsened by your inability to know your limitations, and refusal to listen to knowledgeable sources despite constantly screwing things up and blaming others.

Go back to OT, try being funny or clever or whatever, but don't give out advice in the serious parts of the forums, please.

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I probably have a greater understanding of the HVAC world than the majority of the community on here.
Sigh.
Not the standard. Thinking you are smrater than half of a sample that is not claiming expertise is NOT a reason to think you should give advice.
Seeing this common error in your thinking as an example of why you are "intelligent" and why you should keep your mouth shut is a classic example.

"fixing" a handful of cars that haven't been proven to last a year isn't the standard here or anywhere, and a "highly intelligent" person would realize that.
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Old 05-29-2019, 04:28 PM   #29
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I cannot take that on faith while all the evidence says otherwise.



There has been no evidence in intelligence or wisdom in any of your posts here.
I am not throwing insults, not trying to demean you, but you need to realize your posts do not portray anything above average intelligence.
They do show arrogance, obstinance, and a real lack of any growth since you have started here. This is a dangerous combo.
Back up your claim to "intelligence" You have not shown it on turbobricks.

Only a limited understanding that has emboldened you to assume you have a clue.
Unless you are a very dedicated troll that scrubs any sign of intelligence from your account, and have painstakingly cultivated this remarkable sham...
If so, you are intelligent, and I am impressed that you never break character.

No, frankly, your posts don't back up our claims to "intelligence" at all.
YOU:Bad advice, limited understanding of basic concepts, worsened by your inability to know your limitations, and refusal to listen to knowledgeable sources despite constantly screwing things up and blaming others.

Go back to OT, try being funny or clever or whatever, but don't give out advice in the serious parts of the forums, please.


Sigh.
Not the standard. Thinking you are smrater than half of a sample that is not claiming expertise is NOT a reason to think you should give advice.
Seeing this common error in your thinking as an example of why you are "intelligent" and why you should keep your mouth shut is a classic example.

"fixing" a handful of cars that haven't been proven to last a year isn't the standard here or anywhere, and a "highly intelligent" person would realize that.
All that talkiní and still havenít provided any AC advice to OP. Smh, shame on you. I hope his ac is fixed after all this.
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Old 05-29-2019, 04:53 PM   #30
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All that talkin’ and still haven’t provided any AC advice to OP. Smh, shame on you. I hope his ac is fixed after all this.
Classic. Still doesn't realize that giving advice should be done by those that understand the subject well.

The finest piece of advice in this thread is for this new member to beware McLovin's information and bravado, I unfortunately have been a witness to your history here, and have become an unwilling expert in your...

..."intelligence"?

Stick to OT.
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Old 05-29-2019, 06:45 PM   #31
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HA! My 740 came with a $4k+ Brentwood Volvo receipt for all new ac stuff, and a rear main seal. And the compressor was some aftermarket junk that leaked like a sieve.
Well . . . $4,000 is well over $1,000
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Old 05-29-2019, 08:07 PM   #32
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Well . . . $4,000 is well over $1,000
Yes. Insane IMO.
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Old 05-31-2019, 01:06 AM   #33
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Ok so my AC gauges just came in today. I will either buy harbor freight pump or look into renting one for vacuuming.

I need to figure out the 134A low side adapter. Does it go on the receiver/dryer or back of the compressor? The adapter acts as if it doesn’t want to thread onto my new ebay receiver/dryer low side

Thanks
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Old 05-31-2019, 09:36 AM   #34
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Ok so my AC gauges just came in today. I will either buy harbor freight pump or look into renting one for vacuuming.

I need to figure out the 134A low side adapter. Does it go on the receiver/dryer or back of the compressor? The adapter acts as if it doesnít want to thread onto my new ebay receiver/dryer low side

Thanks
It should thread onto the R/D. You could provide pics and we might be able to tell you if anything looks out of the ordinary.

It might also fit on the compressor threaded portion but that will be much harder to access
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Old 05-31-2019, 01:31 PM   #35
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The drier may have a fitting for a low side SWITCH, not a service port.

Have you looked at the back of your compressor yet??
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Old 05-31-2019, 11:05 PM   #36
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The drier may have a fitting for a low side SWITCH, not a service port.

Have you looked at the back of your compressor yet??
Yeah all the ones Iíve seen for a 1990 740 and 2 93' 240s have all had a low pressure switch and low side pressure port. Maybe some donít.
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Old 06-04-2019, 12:37 PM   #37
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Hey all I got the low side adapter placed on the R/D. There was a black cap in the low pressure adapter I guess just for protection

Anyway, so if I pass the vacuum test and begin the filling process what should my pressures be? Common numbers I've referenced are 30 for the low side and around 200 for the high side?
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Old 06-04-2019, 12:47 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by xDread92x View Post
Ok so my AC gauges just came in today. I will either buy harbor freight pump or look into renting one for vacuuming.

I need to figure out the 134A low side adapter. Does it go on the receiver/dryer or back of the compressor? The adapter acts as if it doesnít want to thread onto my new ebay receiver/dryer low side

Thanks
Receiver. Stay away from compressor ports. The WM conversion kit fitting will thread & seal on your old R12 connection. Charge by weight once fully vacuumed; if you keep the air out you will have a nice cool system. Be sure to isolate your vac pump and ensure your vac reading does not move for 30 minutes; otherwise find your leaks and repeat
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Old 06-04-2019, 12:56 PM   #39
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I also forgot to mention the expansion valve replacement?

There is little to anything available online. Could anyone give me some info in more detail?

I know the evaporator will have to be taken out to replace the expansion valve.
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Old 06-04-2019, 01:44 PM   #40
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Don't know 'nutten about no '92 but my '82 has the expansion valve outside the HVAC system. Other systems I have seen have them under the hood.

My '82's valve was so filled with junk it couldn't have worked.
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Old 06-04-2019, 02:27 PM   #41
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I also forgot to mention the expansion valve replacement?

There is little to anything available online. Could anyone give me some info in more detail?

I know the evaporator will have to be taken out to replace the expansion valve.
'92's don't have an expansion valve. The systems were changed over to an orifice tube system in '91.
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Old 06-04-2019, 03:12 PM   #42
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'92's don't have an expansion valve. The systems were changed over to an orifice tube system in '91.
+1 and they are very easy to change and cheap. I would replace it the same time you replaced the R/D because I think it is right there next to it. At least on the 740s it is.
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:50 PM   #43
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Can anyone recall orifice tube location on the 92 240?

Also still looking for hi and low pressure acceptable ratings

Thanks
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Old 06-05-2019, 01:04 PM   #44
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Low you want 30-40. High you want about 150.

Static is about 60 psi on both. The compressor kicks on and, if it's working, the low side goes down to 30-40 and the high should go to at least 150.

I use a machine to get the proper weight in there. And to WEIGHH what came out.
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:05 PM   #45
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Low you want 30-40. High you want about 150.

Static is about 60 psi on both. The compressor kicks on and, if it's working, the low side goes down to 30-40 and the high should go to at least 150.

I use a machine to get the proper weight in there. And to WEIGHH what came out.
Pressures are based off of ambient temperature, but those are well rounded Ball Park numbers.
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Old 06-05-2019, 08:19 PM   #46
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Can anyone recall orifice tube location on the 92 240?
Here's pictures of the AC parts from a '93 240 (click on pic for full size)


Orifice tube is on the paper towel, and goes into the frame rail end of the line that goes to the lower bulkhead connection to the cabin evaporator.
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:20 PM   #47
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Hey All,

Serious question. So i know when vacuuming both low and high pressure knobs should be open on the gauges. But what about when putting freon in the system.

I know during r134a filling the low gauge should be open, what about the high gauge knob? Should the high pressure side be closed during filling?

Thanks
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:31 PM   #48
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Here's pictures of the AC parts from a '93 240 (click on pic for full size)


Orifice tube is on the paper towel, and goes into the frame rail end of the line that goes to the lower bulkhead connection to the cabin evaporator.
Helpful, thanks.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:21 PM   #49
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I know during r134a filling the low gauge should be open, what about the high gauge knob? Should the high pressure side be closed during filling?
Charging is normally done on the low side but from a technical point of view it doesn't matter with the engine off. I probably wouldn't open the high pressure side simply because its an opportunity to screw up and forget and start the engine. That wouldn't be a good thing to do.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:18 PM   #50
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Hey All,

Serious question. So i know when vacuuming both low and high pressure knobs should be open on the gauges. But what about when putting freon in the system.

I know during r134a filling the low gauge should be open, what about the high gauge knob? Should the high pressure side be closed during filling?

Thanks
Yeah charge from low side only. High side closed on the manifold, but open on the hose (so you can read high side pressures). Charge with the can upright if possible, as you do not want to feed the compressor pure refrigerant in liquid form. It’s very helpful to have a blowdryer to heat the can up, increasing pressure differential. But obviously don’t make it hot hot. Just don’t let it be cold.
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