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Old 06-11-2019, 01:21 AM   #51
xDread92x
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Originally Posted by iHateVolvoPeople View Post
Yeah charge from low side only. High side closed on the manifold, but open on the hose (so you can read high side pressures). Charge with the can upright if possible, as you do not want to feed the compressor pure refrigerant in liquid form. Itís very helpful to have a blowdryer to heat the can up, increasing pressure differential. But obviously donít make it hot hot. Just donít let it be cold.
I understand what you mean on the hose having the gauge open. But what do you mean closed on the manifold??

So when filling refrig have the cog handle open for low and high closed when car is running so pressures can be read safely??
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Old 06-11-2019, 09:53 AM   #52
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I understand what you mean on the hose having the gauge open. But what do you mean closed on the manifold??

So when filling refrig have the cog handle open for low and high closed when car is running so pressures can be read safely??
Yes, you are using manifold gauges right? The part that you hang off the hood from the hook is called the manifold. On the manifold you have blue (low side) and red (high side). During vacuuming I leave both sides open on the manifold (counterclockwise to open on my gauges) because it vacuums a bit faster and from both sides of the system.

Then when filling with the car on, fill low side only, because ones the compressor kicks on, high side pressures will exceed pressures of the can and low side, which means it will not charge. Or not easily/safely at least. With the vehicle OFF, you can charge from both sides, though I donít see the point.
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Old 06-11-2019, 08:01 PM   #53
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I went through the same thing on my '92. Hopefully I can save you time.

The big obvious fitting is for a propietary Volvo connector that you should ignore. The real low side fitting is on the receiver/dryer itself, probably with a plastic cap on it. The adapter you bought should fit on it, but it will be tight to connect everything up against the firewall.

I never found the high side but successfully charged my system with just the low side connected and got working AC.

I currently have the radiator out and found a fitting on the refridgerent lines that run under the condenser that looks like a good candidate. Easiest access would be from underneath the car
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:09 PM   #54
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Ok thanks for clarifying.

Dumb question but when filling refrigerant and the high pressure side is closed on the manifold will a reading still come up?

I would think not with the manifold gauge being closed. Isn't the the high pressure reading just as important as the low even when filling refrig??
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:34 PM   #55
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You refill based on weight, not pressure.
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:22 PM   #56
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Ok thanks for clarifying.

Dumb question but when filling refrigerant and the high pressure side is closed on the manifold will a reading still come up?

I would think not with the manifold gauge being closed. Isn't the the high pressure reading just as important as the low even when filling refrig??
Yes the high side will still read with the manifold closed. But you must make sure the portion connected on the high side line is open though.
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:44 PM   #57
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To clarify, both gauges will read pressure when they are hooked up to the system whether the valves are open or not. Keep the high side valve closed anytime you are working with a pressurized (filled) system.
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:55 PM   #58
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Thanks!!

Hey all so I have another dilemma. My receiver/dryer on the car has a switch/sensor built in with the low pressure port and hoses.

The R/D i bought does not have the switch built in and i am not seeing ones online being sold this way.

Is this apart of the old R12 system? Is there any way I can still us the R/D i bought and do something else with the switch?

I really want to go ahead and use what I have instead of buying another R/D. I'll leave pics

https://ibb.co/hyc1qhc
https://ibb.co/WH826SX
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:27 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDread92x View Post
Thanks!!

Hey all so I have another dilemma. My receiver/dryer on the car has a switch/sensor built in with the low pressure port and hoses.

The R/D i bought does not have the switch built in and i am not seeing ones online being sold this way.

Is this apart of the old R12 system? Is there any way I can still us the R/D i bought and do something else with the switch?

I really want to go ahead and use what I have instead of buying another R/D. I'll leave pics

https://ibb.co/hyc1qhc
https://ibb.co/WH826SX
Are you filling from the R/D r12>r134a adapter? I believe the thread pitch is the same for the low pressure cutout switch. Might be worth buying another? All of mine have had the correct fittings. Even the dirt cheap ones on amazon.
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Old 06-12-2019, 04:03 PM   #60
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Hmmmm...yea dammit you are right. I guess I will get another and try this again lmao

Amazon is quite interesting these days.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:27 PM   #61
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Just swap your old switch over to the new accumulator. Use a new o-ring if you have one.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:05 PM   #62
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Just swap your old switch over to the new accumulator. Use a new o-ring if you have one.
On my volvo, one of the fittings is for the low pressures switch, the other fitting is for the low side readings.
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:14 AM   #63
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Quote:
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The drier may have a fitting for a low side SWITCH, not a service port.

Have you looked at the back of your compressor yet??
??? Have ya?
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:34 AM   #64
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ZVOLV i got the low pressure adapter worked out on the R/D.

I apparently got one for a 93 240 where the switch wasnt on the R/D. After this new R/D comes in I will be set to go.
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:57 AM   #65
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I will take that as a "no".

On my 1990 240 I just added a R134 adapter on the back of the compressor, vacuumed it down, added the proper weight of refrigerant and some Ester oil and enjoyed the cold A/C. Don't even worry about the high side. I do my work thru the low side.

I just got a really nice oil injector. Its a hand screw type. I just vac down the car, screw in the oil, charge and go. If you don't have a tool, you can just open a line and pour the oil in.


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Old 06-13-2019, 01:17 PM   #66
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Yea i have seen that tool around or something similar.

I have a question about the R/D hard line. The hose line going to the compressor came off easy but the hardline going to firewall acts a bit of a pain.

Will I be able to take it off while other end is still attached to firewall? How does removal work for this hardline?
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Old 06-13-2019, 01:31 PM   #67
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If you screw up you may be doing an evaporator! I forget if the lines connect right to it.( No other connections) Be careful. These aluminum threads are easy to strip or crossthread.

Its a good practice to replace the drier because the dessicant gets saturated with moisture, but on old cars I may just avoid it because I don't wanna break anything. I had to do a 3 day evaporator swap last year because I damaged a fitting going the the firewall. The same caution applies to heater core fittings.

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Old 06-13-2019, 02:17 PM   #68
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I broke one of the aluminum connectors to the condenser being ever so careful. Some are just not going to come apart.

If it is part of the R/D and you don't want to screw it up just vacuum for a couple hours. That will have affect on moisture in the R/D but replacing it is always better.
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Old 06-13-2019, 07:51 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDread92x View Post
Yea i have seen that tool around or something similar.

I have a question about the R/D hard line. The hose line going to the compressor came off easy but the hardline going to firewall acts a bit of a pain.

Will I be able to take it off while other end is still attached to firewall? How does removal work for this hardline?
Yes you can take it off just use TWO pair of very nice gripping pliers. Hold the evaporator portion very still (helps to have a friend) and loosen the nut/fitting. Might need a breaker bar or something. Another option is the hit your wrench with a hammer, similar to how an impact wrench works. Iíve had to do that before.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:52 PM   #70
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I would recommend replacing the Schrader valve I've had a couple that had a slow leak there
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Old 07-04-2019, 10:52 PM   #71
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Hey All,

So some updates.

I got the receiver/dryer and orifice tube replaced. I bough the $20 vacuum pump from harbor freight that you use with a compressor. The compressor is rated at 150 psi. I do not have a high side port anywhere that I have been able to find. With it being a 1992 and R12 i guess its safe to assume it doesn't have one??

Anyway, I pulled a vacuum for about an hour and a half. The low pressure vacuum reading wouldn't go above 15. I read the inner part of green vacuum gauge as I believe thats the right one to read. After letting the vacuum off it seemed to stay at 15. I could have a leak in the condenser, compressor, or compressor hose? I know I could still get it to cool but it wont cool efficiently. I am going to try and run another vacuum test and see if its similar.

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Old 07-04-2019, 11:08 PM   #72
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Those air compressor driven vacuum pumps are never going to get to the -30psi target but are probably much better than my first effort at recharging a dead AC system.

I fed a couple cans of $0.89 (Kmart on sale) R12 through the low pressure side until it came out the high pressure side and then a little more.

Worked just fine.
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Old 07-04-2019, 11:20 PM   #73
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My rinky dink pneumatic vacuum pump can get down to about -27psi. I bet your air compressor just cant keep up, try letting your compressor fill up then connect it and keep an eye on the gauge.
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Old 07-04-2019, 11:27 PM   #74
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Go rent a vacuum pump and a set of gauges from auto zone. You get your money back when you return the tools. If you want your ac to work properly, you're going to need to get the proper tools and replace all seals and clean out the system. And if you need cans of R12 I have 36 12oz cans sitting in my garage.
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Old 07-05-2019, 12:12 AM   #75
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I do have a proper gauge set up and the vacuum pump although compressor driven has been used by many others with success re-cooling their AC.

Can anyone tell me more about the high pressure side if the 92 240 has one? Again, I have converted this to R134a.

If its holding the vacuum it is showing then I think I may be okay as far as leaks are concerned, atleast majorly.
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