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Old 07-13-2017, 11:56 PM   #1
SlowRide
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Default ATP Ultimate Wastegate pics

Since photobucket bogarted all of our links, I figured I'd post some pics of the most recent ATP ultimate wastegate. I purchased the mild steel variant, $168, and I think I'll be happy with it once I'm making boost. Also purchased the 8mm 1.25 studs ATP sells because I'm lazy.

Here we go:


Compared to volvo 48 flapper,




Clumsy trace of the flapper footprint, looks like porting is also gonna happen.


Post casting clean up so flapper doesn't catch, could have done more at the top of excursion, doubt it will catch though.

And now, my favorite:



WTF ATP? Even with a shorter stud, what sort of nut will fit there? Forget flanged copper lock nuts on two other studs, but unflanged nuts fit fine in those places.

Les sighs...
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Old 07-14-2017, 02:50 AM   #2
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Nice! Talk about product fail... Did the old one have that problem, or was that there the big updated ultimate change?
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Old 07-14-2017, 05:24 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by JerryJS8 View Post
Nice! Talk about product fail... Did the old one have that problem, or was that there the big updated ultimate change?
Not sure. I'm wondering if the all stainless version has this same issue.
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Old 07-14-2017, 05:41 AM   #4
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Raise the flange, angle it, fit the nut, tighten as you lower it back down? lol. If all else fails, Grinder time? Wtf ATP? ;p

Last edited by VolvoGuy123; 07-14-2017 at 05:43 AM.. Reason: because racecar.
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Old 07-14-2017, 05:57 AM   #5
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I used a titanium nut, it is a 10mm hex.
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Old 07-14-2017, 06:56 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by VolvoGuy123 View Post
Raise the flange, angle it, fit the nut, tighten as you lower it back down? lol. If all else fails, Grinder time? Wtf ATP? ;p
Yeah, I tried raising the flange and nutting that one first. It would work, just an annoying pita...
Looking at it again, I need to trim that stud to see if its making more contact than I thought and pulling the whole shebang over, then maybe dremel time. The side wall isn't very beefy.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:47 AM   #7
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What I did, but with a slightly longer stud.

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Old 07-14-2017, 10:36 AM   #8
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Anyone got a recent stainless version?
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:00 AM   #9
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just be thankful you can preinstall the wastegate housing on a bench and not on the car and once its installed you should hopefully never have to uninstall it again.. custom length stud seems like the right answer and a slim lock nut carefully lowered into place.
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:16 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
just be thankful you can preinstall the wastegate housing on a bench and not on the car and once its installed you should hopefully never have to uninstall it again.. custom length stud seems like the right answer and a slim lock nut carefully lowered into place.
Tell me you've done this with it all still on the motor

I'm just bothered that this cost 168 bacons, for a cast piece, and THIS is the issue.
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:19 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by SlowRide View Post
Tell me you've done this with it all still on the motor

I'm just bothered that this cost 168 bacons, for a cast piece, and THIS is the issue.
well they could have included a bump out for extra clearance which would be right in the flow path which would be less than ideal every single time you use it or you can just deal with a ****ty install once and have a cleaner line. I know what I would pick.
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:31 PM   #12
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What about using a bolt?
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
well they could have included a bump out for extra clearance which would be right in the flow path which would be less than ideal every single time you use it or you can just deal with a ****ty install once and have a cleaner line. I know what I would pick.
If it was smooth there wouldn't be much difference, at least not for the vast majority of people buying in. That's why I want to see the stainless one because it's only $10 more and might be different.

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What about using a bolt?
Flange too tall and no clearance due to the transition. Maybe if the flange was notched, but I'd sooner return it and find a cosworth housing.
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Old 07-14-2017, 03:20 PM   #14
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So...guys...just so happens that I know a guy in the right places with ATP. I sent him a link to this thread, already got a response.

First, he wanted to apologize for the issue. He hasn't heard of fitment issues other than having to lower the wastegate housing down while you run the nut down. That's more due to getting flow thru it, but it is a known thing. I had to do the same on mine.
The flapper clearance is something he'll look into, but it realistically won't be an issue since you will never have the flapper open THAT far under normal use.

Last, these issues aren't going to be an issue going forward as the iron version is slated to be run out when the stainless version rolls in.

Thanks for bringing this up guys! There's no way to get things improved unless the right people hear about it. Thankfully ATP actually cares about their parts, customers, and their name. Sure wish some other companies did the same...
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Old 07-14-2017, 04:08 PM   #15
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Did he offer any hints on when the new stainless will be available? And is it different than the stainless option they currently seem to have available? This won't be going onto the 242 for a while, just hoarding and staging things as time and money allows. I'll probably end up returning this one before I hack it up.
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Old 07-14-2017, 04:27 PM   #16
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I just used a slim locknut and short stud exactly as BNE says.

No fuss.

Another one I did I just filed down where the bolt sits to a lower height and filed/ground it very slightly so the closed end stubby slim wrench can slip in there. Wasn't too bad to get it all flat enough and neat.

You could use a socket cap screw and appropriate locking washer with a ball end tool to tighten I suppose...
Stud/nut is stronger, however.

The swing arm on the waste gate flapper isn't the same as OE. I spot welded the OE to the ATP one in two spots. No more travel/actuation issues.
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Old 07-14-2017, 04:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
Another one I did I just filed down where the bolt sits to a lower height and filed/ground it very slightly so the closed end stubby slim wrench can slip in there. Wasn't too bad to get it all flat enough and neat.
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Thought about doing this. Probably will.
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Old 07-14-2017, 05:19 PM   #18
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Ran into a similar issue with my header. But because I modified it, not a design flaw. I just modified the bolt. It locks it in place too which is nice when tightening.

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Old 07-14-2017, 09:21 PM   #19
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Nope, he didn't give an eta.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:22 PM   #20
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Nope, no eta or details if it is different.
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Old 07-18-2017, 02:41 AM   #21
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Pfff.. everyone knows that ATP designed that flange only for use with DIN 876..
retards...

here you go, thank me later...

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Old 07-18-2017, 02:58 AM   #22
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That table just makes me cringe
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Old 07-18-2017, 03:03 AM   #23
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That table just makes me cringe
want some more.. ? :D





I like the self boring and tapering screw the most.. you just need one drillingmachine for 3 steps.. in the middlepart you sometimes havo to go in reverse to split the chip, but thats OK
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Old 07-18-2017, 08:13 PM   #24
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No problem here with these nuts. I also used locking washers under the nuts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-SUZUKI-10...gUxF_w&vxp=mtr
You're welcome.




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Old 07-18-2017, 08:54 PM   #25
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Das so shiny

I did this, but those nuts will be icing on the cake.

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