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Old 07-17-2017, 03:14 PM   #1
Uncleknucklez
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Default T5 output shaft seal

T5 decided to rustproof the bottom of my car this weekend on 120 mile roadtrip.

Started to weep from the output shaft area

Seems like the rear seal is just a dust boot, and there is a bushing inside that should seal as well? Anybody have any experience changing out the bushing? Does the trans need to come out?

Also, I did notice there is some "wobble" at the output shaft when I grab the driveshaft and vigorously shake it, That's probably not normal for one of these right? LOL
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:27 PM   #2
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The seal just pops off. Easy peasy.
The bushing is a pain and needs to be honed to fit the driveshaft slip yoke... so you have to pull the tailshaft housing off.
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:32 PM   #3
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If the input shaft bearing has too much play (which it really shouldn't when engine and transmission are together) the tail shaft can have a little wiggle. Do you remember how it felt when putting it in?
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:53 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
If the input shaft bearing has too much play (which it really shouldn't when engine and transmission are together) the tail shaft can have a little wiggle. Do you remember how it felt when putting it in?

Hmmm, not really, is it normal for the driveshaft to have a little wiggle at the input of the trans?

I mean, I suppose I could just pound in a new seal, and see if that takes care of the issue.

If not, I would know my next course is to pull the trans and take a look at all the bushings. This unit of course was supposed to have been freshly rebuilt (per the CL seller).
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:12 PM   #5
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The seal is really just a dust seal, I don't think it's going to affect a real leak
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:23 PM   #6
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I had an output shaft leak. Replacing the seal worked for a while, but my slip yoke had been worn down by the seal. Once I replaced my yoke, I haven't had a leak since.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:34 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
The seal just pops off. Easy peasy.
The bushing is a pain and needs to be honed to fit the driveshaft slip yoke... so you have to pull the tailshaft housing off.
First time I hear about that. All of the Mustang forums mention that the bushing can be popped on and off in situ with a special tool.

That mentioned, my output shaft has developed a small amount of radial play and I think I should probably fix it before I destroy something...
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:13 PM   #8
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Interesting discussion...I have a minor leak from my T5 output shaft as well. I needed to replace the tailhousing due to damage on the original one and the leak only showed up after I installed tailhousing #2. I thought I may have overfilled the trans and some fluid was being pushed out when it's running...total guess, but I wasn't (am not) too concerned at this point b/c it's so minor. The tailhousing I purchased had a new seal installed by the guy I bought it from.
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Old 07-18-2017, 02:21 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
First time I hear about that. All of the Mustang forums mention that the bushing can be popped on and off in situ with a special tool.

That mentioned, my output shaft has developed a small amount of radial play and I think I should probably fix it before I destroy something...
You can try and be lucky and do it in situ, but the last 2 I did needed to be honed. Slip yokes also come in a few different diameters as welll, only a few thousands difference.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:15 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by t8fanning View Post
I had an output shaft leak. Replacing the seal worked for a while, but my slip yoke had been worn down by the seal. Once I replaced my yoke, I haven't had a leak since.
Interesting, I will try and find some specs for the slip yokes and throw some calipers on it and see if I can find a deviation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
First time I hear about that. All of the Mustang forums mention that the bushing can be popped on and off in situ with a special tool.

That mentioned, my output shaft has developed a small amount of radial play and I think I should probably fix it before I destroy something...
I feel like my drive train vibration may have had something to do with the early demise of the seal, and now I am wondering if it didn't create wear in the yoke as well.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:29 AM   #11
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Mine also had to be honed to fit. ID on the new bushing was about .015" smaller once pressed into place than the OD of the new yoke going into it or the used one I had floating around in the garage. I wouldn't want to try doing it in car, and I'm a bit curious how they get the bushing to fit the yoke when they do it in car...
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:33 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
Mine also had to be honed to fit. ID on the new bushing was about .015" smaller once pressed into place than the OD of the new yoke going into it or the used one I had floating around in the garage. I wouldn't want to try doing it in car, and I'm a bit curious how they get the bushing to fit the yoke when they do it in car...
Are there any trans shops in town you recommend to do this for me?
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:44 AM   #13
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I bet the slip joke is part of the issue. I remember with the yoshifab adapter plate and one piece driveshaft, the slip yoke wasnt super deeply engaged into the trans. It was also used so it had some wear from the bushing.

You might be onto something with a driveline vibration wearing out the bushing.
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Old 07-19-2017, 11:33 AM   #14
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I had the Celica box rebuilt by Manual Transmission Warehouse years back, seemed like a legit shop. They moved from C street in Sac out to West Sac it looks like.

Otherwise it's not a bad job to do on your own. A brake hone works nicely, took me about an hour to do mine once the trans was out of the car.

Driveline vibration can definitely cause some wear as well.
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Old 07-19-2017, 11:50 AM   #15
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I had the Celica box rebuilt by Manual Transmission Warehouse years back, seemed like a legit shop. They moved from C street in Sac out to West Sac it looks like.

Otherwise it's not a bad job to do on your own. A brake hone works nicely, took me about an hour to do mine once the trans was out of the car.

Driveline vibration can definitely cause some wear as well.
I would love to DIY this, but I don't have a press. I'm assuming it needs a press?
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Old 07-19-2017, 12:05 PM   #16
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Good info to know, will do this if I ever actually do the swap.
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:20 PM   #17
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The last seal replacement I did on mine - the dust boot and slip yoke seal were combined into one unit. The dust boot extends past the tail of the tranny - and does what the name implies, keeps debris out. The yoke seal is inside of the dust boot and fits firmly around the input yoke to keep tranny fluid inside where it belongs. That unit should be replaceable from under the car without too much fuss.

The bushing is INSIDE the tailshaft housing and doesn't do much in the way of sealing. There is a special tool that is supposed to work removing the bushing with the tranny in place - no experience with that. Most find it easier to remove the tailshaft housing and then replace the bushing. If the bushing is bad - it will beat up the yoke pretty good and often lead to vibration and other more serious issues if you drive on it long enough.
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:52 PM   #18
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Don't need a press if you're careful with a punch to remove the old one and CAREFUL with a socket or driver to install the new one. I have access to a press at my parents, did this job in my garage though.

And yes, the seal is both a dust shield and oil seal, the bushing does nothing for oil control.
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