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Old 02-21-2017, 07:13 PM   #26
LC4CARL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
Go have A N T tire align it.
-.5 to -1 camber, toe 0* would be a good start from where you are at.

The rake isn't helping at all. As Ken said, you lost caster, but you have a lot of weight riding on the front tires now also. It's probably squirrelly under braking or during hard cornering right now too.

Also what ball joints are you using? Manual or power ones? Should be using power ones with more castor.
Loosen the 3 bj bolts and pull out and forward on the strut assembly while you tighten them.
Interesting point about the weight transfer. PS ball joints. Please see second post.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:14 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post

So I email you the same basic content and you blow me off with one line that it's not bump steer? Then I post it and you're on board?
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:16 PM   #28
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These are the settings I was able to get myself.
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#mclovethesenuts
-My car: White 1991 244, 308k miles. B230F LH2.4, AW71, R134a retro. Thrush glasspack, anthracite refinished Coronas
-Wife's car: White 1990 244DL, 160k miles.B230F LH2.4, AW70 w/aux cooler, dead R12, purple refinished Virgos, tow hitch, ipd wagon overload springs.
-Work in Progress: Silver 2002 Subaru WRX wagon, 120k miles, Perrin TBE, Perrin turbo inlet, intake, and Y-pipe, GrimmSpeed cross pipe.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:16 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Your worn out rack probably isn't helping either.
I think you're right. I wish the power steering deal (with another vendor) had not gone to hell. I'll likely look here first.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Lower the ass end and get BNE Select top mounts. DO IT NOOB.

Thank you.

I held an ASE Master Technician certification for decades. I'm not a noob.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:20 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
You don't know nothing old man....



We said this would happen from the start

✅ cut sprangs
✅ complain of crap ride/drive ability

Future ✅ s

- worn tires
- put on jackstands
- let 6 months pass
- buy another Volvo
- crush
Wow. Did you come up with that all on your own? Like a phucking broken record around here.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:22 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjam83 View Post
Tie rod ends?
Ball joints?
Bushings?

Adjustable strut mounts aren't going to do crap if the rest of the system isn't in good repair.
See first post:

The car ('87 245 N/A) has the following mods: 2.5 coils off front, 1.0 off rear, Bilstien Touring shocks, adjustable rear track bar, 16.5 mm rear wheel spacers, upper and lower front braces, Hydras with new 215/55R16 tires (32 psi), 23mm / 19mm swaybars, manual steering rack, new ball joints, tight tie rod ends, original bushings.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:23 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by KeizerBrickGuy View Post
These are the settings I was able to get myself.
Beautiful. Nice caster.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:25 PM   #34
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My caster is more shot to hell than yours and drives fine, just look at my post align specs. I think it has nothing to do with the alignment; I would still push the alignment dude to get it all set to spec and then reassess. Now that I think about it, since I installed wagon overloads on my wife's car; it tends to wander a bit more than it used to, but then of course I haven't realigned it to check the numbers though, either. Her car has a lot of rake to it like your car. Looks good though.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:25 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by LC4CARL View Post
Wow. Did you come up with that all on your own? Like a phucking broken record around here.
I can't take the credit. A group of us got together in OT and greatly discussed why people most often crush their Volvo around here. Extensive research by 17 members discovered that
97% of the time it starts with cut springs
the stats go even higher when car is an 85+ 240 to a 98.7% probability of crushing
99.9876% if belt line trim has been removed



fix your suspension and steering and quit trying to reinvent the wheel
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:28 PM   #36
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It's probably me, but the camaraderie of a shared enthusiasm in Volvo's is nil around here sometimes. I have put hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars into my ride. I have been supportive and respectful of others on the forum. I need to take a break from this place.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:30 PM   #37
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99.9876%

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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:31 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
I can't take the credit. A group of us got together in OT and greatly discussed why people most often crush their Volvo around here. Extensive research by 17 members discovered that
97% of the time it starts with cut springs
the stats go even higher when car is an 85+ 240 to a 98.7% probability of crushing
99.9876% if belt line trim has been removed



fix your suspension and steering and quit trying to reinvent the wheel
Reinvent the wheel? Doing what 1000's have done before me? I am trying to fix it. God!
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:33 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4CARL View Post
It's probably me, but the camaraderie of a shared enthusiasm in Volvo's is nil around here sometimes. I have put hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars into my ride. I have been supportive and respectful of others on the forum. I need to take a break from this place.
stop getting butt hurt raise the front end of your car and start checking stuff
I had bjs go bad after 6 months and I get my car aligned everytime I mess around with suspension stuff

a loose rack with bad alignment can give you a super detached feeling at the wheel
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:37 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
99.9876%

I think I pissed him off
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:54 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by LC4CARL View Post
So I email you the same basic content and you blow me off with one line that it's not bump steer? Then I post it and you're on board?
Strut mounts have nothing to do with bump steer. I guess that ASE cert isn't helping you much.
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Old 02-21-2017, 08:01 PM   #42
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Lets play nice now, kids...can't let this thread turn into a usual day on VolvoSpeed.
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Old 03-07-2017, 12:14 PM   #43
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In case you wanted some TSB info:

NEW ALIGN SPECIFICATIONS

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN

Reference Number(s): GROUP 64, NO. 122, Date of Issue: March 1991


ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS


Model Volvo 200

Group 64

Bulletin No. 122

Date March 1991

NEW FRONT CAMBER SPECIFICATION


The camber specification listed below should be used for all 200 series cars with power steering. Note that the upper range of the camber has been increased to +1 degree. However, observe the listed restrictions.

CAMBER .............+1/4 to +1 degree

RESTRICTIONS:
•The difference between left and right camber should not exceed 1/2 degree.
•If uneven tire wear, or if "feathering" of the tire is observed, the camber should be set as close to the lower range (+1/4 degree) as possible.


NOTE: This Specification is considered to be retro-active for all 200 series cars.

Cars that have been set up to the previous specification, and remain within the previous specification, need NOT be re-adjusted to the new specification.
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Old 03-07-2017, 12:56 PM   #44
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+1 camber :r ofl:
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:03 PM   #45
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+1 camber :r ofl:
What's so funny Ben? lol I was just perusing the TSB's on Mitchell and saw that.
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:42 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by KeizerBrickGuy View Post
What's so funny Ben? lol I was just perusing the TSB's on Mitchell and saw that.
Nobody in their right mind would set their camber to positive 1 degree. That's what is funny about that. I don't care what the bulletin says.

Also, I would never set the front end of a 240 to zero toe. They always wander when they do not have a small amount of toe in. What the car is set to on an alignment rack is not what it will actually be doing when driving down the road. The parts all deflect under load. Zero toe static becomes toe out when the car is moving forward. Guaranteed to climb the ruts in the road surface.

Last edited by 2manyturbos; 03-07-2017 at 01:48 PM..
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:48 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4CARL View Post
See first post:

The car ('87 245 N/A) has the following mods: 2.5 coils off front, 1.0 off rear, Bilstien Touring shocks, adjustable rear track bar, 16.5 mm rear wheel spacers, upper and lower front braces, Hydras with new 215/55R16 tires (32 psi), 23mm / 19mm swaybars, manual steering rack, new ball joints, tight tie rod ends, original bushings.
Ok, so you've said it....twice then. Your car has 30 year old rubber bushings.





Nah....gotta be something else...
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:56 PM   #48
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Carl,

You make no mention of any work done on the rear suspension. A broken bushing in the rear of a 240 will make them wander all over the place no matter what you have done with the front end. The upper torque rod bushings are always broken on a 240 with as many miles on it as yours has.
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:57 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Benjam83 View Post
Ok, so you've said it....twice then. Your car has 30 year old rubber bushings.





Nah....gotta be something else...
please get out with logic
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:59 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
Nobody in their right mind would set their camber to positive 1 degree. That's what is funny about that. I don't care what the bulletin says.

Also, I would never set the front end of a 240 to zero toe. They always wander when they do not have a small amount of toe in. What the car is set to on an alignment rack is not what it will actually be doing when driving down the road. The parts all deflect under load. Zero toe static becomes toe out when the car is moving forward. Guaranteed to climb the ruts in the road surface.
That is true about the camber, but zero toe? Talk about stability issues. So maybe it would boil down to bushings now....
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