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Old 07-06-2017, 10:46 PM   #1
Fumomike
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Default 2 Questions.

1990 760 Turbo Wagon

Yo, so i am not going to do the LS swap on a brick. Just too much time and money for me atm. I even gave up on buying an 940 shell from a member on here :(. Sorry to him. Instead I think I'll just do an injector upgrade. Right now im running brand new semi-stock injectors @ 15 PSI w/ 19T coldside/15G hotside and 960 MAF. It pulls good and all but richens up during a pull and makes it bog down. Like 10.0<-10.3~. At this point after checking for boost leaks and stage 0ing the heck out of the car I feel like its normal for L.H. 2.4 w/ LostArtOf Chips to be slightly rich. I even fixed the Check Engine light! I mean its quick but not quite what im looking for. If i raise the boost any higher to about 17psi, you can hear pinging from the engine. So im looking for an easy way for higher boost. I was thinking of getting green giants. Im looking for 20->22 psi. Also I guess its normal for L.H. 2.4 to have an lean spike entering boost. I see 13 AFRs occasionally which scares me. However, I hear its a documented issue with L.H. 2.4 no matter what tunes you get.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-Giant-...hWXyjF&vxp=mtr

Questions:

1. How do I install Green Giants(is it just a drop in, how do they run?)?

2. Yo its summer! Very hot right now. My a/c completely cuts off during boost or throttle. It comes back on when i get out of boost. What is going on and how do i fix it? I think Lummert explained a while back but his explanation and way to fix, was ridiculously hard to understand. Now that i am sweating my butt off, I really need an explanation and guidance.
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Old 07-06-2017, 11:31 PM   #2
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Stay out of boost.
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Old 07-06-2017, 11:36 PM   #3
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Don't use those injectors. There's a 200% chance they're Chinese garbage.
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:54 AM   #4
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You need to increase the size of the vacuum resivour by lot and add a vacuume pump that the older 760s used.
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Old 07-07-2017, 11:29 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Stay out of boost.
My car is rediculously slow out of boost. Now that i know that its a normal occurance i feel at ease.

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Originally Posted by AndrewNance View Post
Don't use those injectors. There's a 200% chance they're Chinese garbage.
Where do i buy high quality ones then? Literally cant wait to bring this car to 20 psi .
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Old 07-07-2017, 12:25 PM   #6
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Quote:

2. Yo its summer! Very hot right now. My a/c completely cuts off during boost or throttle. It comes back on when i get out of boost. What is going on and how do i fix it? I think Lummert explained a while back but his explanation and way to fix, was ridiculously hard to understand. Now that i am sweating my butt off, I really need an explanation and guidance.

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Hea...onAcceleration

I have had to do this repair on many 7/9 series cars. You're lucky it is the front/nearest vacuum servo. This repair can be done in 3-4 hours. I also have a 760 but the vents don't open on my car(this requires pulling dash and a/c heater box to access the rear vacuum servo). Like you said, too damn hot to be driving without a/c.
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:13 PM   #7
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What are your AFRs at 17psi?
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:21 PM   #8
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If its too rich you want bigger injectors?
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:24 PM   #9
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On pump gas you will not really be able to run most boost than what you are running on LH 2.4 without doing a lot of custom tuning of the EZK as there is way to much timing for that kind of boost on that low of octane fuel (assuming 93oct).

If you are running that rich up top good chance you still have something off on the setup if you are running a 19T at 15psi. Either way go ahead and do a proper stage 0 and make sure everything is right.

Either way try not to focus so much on how much boost you are running but the power the engine makes when not in boost, as that will help increase it once in boost. For example do you have a full 3" exhaust on the car? Downpipe included? Have you upgraded the intercooler to a newer more efficient bar and plate setup? How about a cam upgrade? the more air flow you can put through the engine the more power it will make in and out of boost. And once you get all of that extra air flowing it might be enough to mix properly with all of that extra fuel you have so that afr's will be correct.
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:29 PM   #10
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Yo, crush it now and avoid the rush.
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Old 07-08-2017, 08:52 AM   #11
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One more tip on the a/c- check all your servos for vacuum leaks,like the uk link says.
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Old 07-08-2017, 10:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
On pump gas you will not really be able to run most boost than what you are running on LH 2.4 without doing a lot of custom tuning of the EZK as there is way to much timing for that kind of boost on that low of octane fuel (assuming 93oct).

If you are running that rich up top good chance you still have something off on the setup if you are running a 19T at 15psi. Either way go ahead and do a proper stage 0 and make sure everything is right.

Either way try not to focus so much on how much boost you are running but the power the engine makes when not in boost, as that will help increase it once in boost. For example do you have a full 3" exhaust on the car? Downpipe included? Have you upgraded the intercooler to a newer more efficient bar and plate setup? How about a cam upgrade? the more air flow you can put through the engine the more power it will make in and out of boost. And once you get all of that extra air flowing it might be enough to mix properly with all of that extra fuel you have so that afr's will be correct.
Interesting points, and I am pretty sure about already stage 0ing the car. I have also done all of the upgrades you have mentioned, except with a 2.5 inch straightpipe, and brand new shiny massive NPR intercooler(however it still suffers from heatsoak). One interesting point tho that might be a key to the problem of rich afrs is my 960 MAF. I am using the larger 960 maf with stockish injectors. I don't see anyone using this setup lol. When i say stockish injectors I mean the ones from 5oMotorsports. I forgot how the stock injectors ran with the stock MAF but I think it was pretty much the same too( maybe a bit different). I do know that I ran the MAF with Deatschwerks injectors in 650cc and they ran soooooooo rich, that could hear backfiring.
I was thinking it would be less rich and maybe even stable with the green giant 440cc injectors. Although, i have some slight fears that it will ping on the onset of boost raised to 20 psi. Green giants are drop in and efficient so I really am keen on putting them in. Right now its tipping into rich. Just dropping a tad below 10. so probably 9.9 or so. Car pulls strong at 10.3->11s~, then less acceleration @ >10.2


Also, I've never found any sort of vacuum lines or reservoirs for the a/c. I did fix all the vacuum leaks in the engine bay but there is a chance i have some of those lines routed incorrectly. Perhaps that is impossible for me to fix myself. Where exactly are these vacuum tubes for the a/c at because all the engine tube leaks have been fixed. Now you guys must be talking about leaks in the cabin area, behind the dash. Maybe it will get me some hp too!

Ill also check the volvo manuals i have too.


for the guy asking about AFRS at 17PSi w/ brand new 5Omotorsport stockish flow injectors, It was around mid 13s i think. You can hear a tick tick tap tap noise from I guess a ball hammer. Lets not melt a piston guys ;). Keep in mind i think these stockish flow injectors have like 10 extra cc for some reason. They are pretty good injectors tho.

Last edited by Fumomike; 07-08-2017 at 10:39 PM..
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