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Old 07-07-2017, 01:46 AM   #1
maxitoman007
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Default Porting stock B230FT head?

So I have a 87 740 turbo and I'm wondering if I should port the head and if so how. I've heard you can do it with a dremel but I'm not exactly sure if I understand what to do (just gasket match?). My goal is 300 hp and although I'm pretty sure I wont reach that goal I'm wondering if this will make any significant difference. I'm doing several other mods to the car to try and reach the 300 hp mark, I'm just wondering if this should be one of them and if it can be done DIY budget style. Any help is appreciated, Thanks.

Last edited by maxitoman007; 07-07-2017 at 04:31 AM..
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Old 07-07-2017, 01:07 PM   #2
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I don't know much about porting but I will suggest that you list all the other supporting mods to reach your power goal. This will help the ones who do know what they're talking about to better tell you what is and isn't needed. Do you have a budget?
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Old 07-07-2017, 01:32 PM   #3
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Honestly as I keep reaching my budget I keep finding ways to expand it haha. Heres the list of mods I'm planning. Some I already have parts for some I don't yet.

- 60 A/R intake, 63 A/R exhaust T3/T4 turbo (externally wategated using adapter plate)
- custom or 90+ manifold milled flat.
- 13mm rods from 90+ b230ft
- new piston rings
- new rod bearings
- replacing all gaskets/seals in the head.
- re lapping valves
- porting head ???
- 3 inch turbo-back straight pipe
- new spark plug wires
- electronic boost controller
- wideband gauge
- boost gauge
- upgraded injectors (low impedance brown-top equivalent)(setup using the guide forum)
- removal of stock air box for cone filter.
- possible ebay intercooler if I can find another $200 CAD

I think that's it but I'm probably missing something lol. Ill jut edit as I remember things.
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Old 07-07-2017, 03:26 PM   #4
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If I've followed your other posts correctly, you got this car for cheap because #1 piston was damaged. With this in mind, I'd suggest:

- Using the most direct path, get the bottom end back together and the car running again.

- Next, chase down the inevitable vacuum leaks and other common problems with a 30 year old car. Making a smoke tester would be a good project.

- When you're happy with how it's running, look into adding a MBC and a Wideband O2 gauge. Feel free to crank on the boost as much as you want, while watching the AFRs, and expect that you'll be looking for a new engine eventually (or maybe just head gasket if you're lucky).

- A non-leaking turbo and a 90+ manifold are a good upgrade that you can add later.

- As a start for porting, I think there are still old stealthfti pics/posts around -- try a google search for: "stealthfti 530 porting site:turbobricks.com"

If you've never taken a head apart before, try to find a junk head to practice on -- the kjet 398s are almost the same as the newer 530s, and are often scrap. Ask at a local old Volvo shop or post in wanted.

Get a giant c-clamp and a plumbing pipe cap to make your own valve spring depressor. Take the junk head apart while paying attention to the precise fit of lifters into head. Imagine the cam destruction (flattening) that can occur if a bit of porting debris would get stuck in the lifter bore. After disassembly, try porting the head. It's junk already. Try lapping the valves too.

After you've practiced, and have decided if or how much porting you want, either find a good head or pull the head from the car.
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Old 07-07-2017, 03:54 PM   #5
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I feel like there was a thread somewhere where someone had flow numbers (and better yet dyno numbers) for a ported 530 and non-ported 530 and the consensus was that porting on one side was minimally beneficial, and porting on the other side increased flow but netted a less desirable power curve or more HP less TQ or something odd.

Starting with gasket matching is probably the path of least resistance if you're looking to do it "now" while you have it apart.

I'll echo bobs statements above though.

When I got my $300 pile with it's blown HG, I peeled everything off and had the head dipped, decked, and did the valves. Put everything back together stock and fired it up to see what was what (hadn't ever heard the car run). Did a light stage zero and assessed what parts I'd need to get it ready for boost. Once I was sure this motor was ok, I took it all apart and bolted up the turbo bits at wastegate pressures. Drove it awhile at the ~8psi (?) that is stock. Added the cam. Got a bunch of other stuff sorted to be sure the AFR's were doing what I wanted (like... my dead in tank pump lol) and then began progressively turning the boost up. Progressively finding and fixing boost leaks, and vac leaks as a motor that's sat for awhile comes back on line.

It's a process but it produces a better product.
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Old 07-07-2017, 03:54 PM   #6
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Also the valve lapping and install with new hushers was like $4 per valve or something hilarious. So... cheaper than the C clamp and energy for me.
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Old 07-07-2017, 04:52 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies, I already have the head off and I've cleaned the deck and flattened it by hand to way within spec. I currently have the cam out and I was just thinking about how to make a diy ring compressor. I have some big clamps and I was thinking of using them on top of a big socket. The only problem I see happening is the keepers not coming out and me not being able to access them because of the clamp covering the socket hole. I was planning on lapping the valves using the rubber hose trick with some valve lapping compound and then porting (gasket matching) if it is actually benificial. See I would put it all together make sure it runs good etc. before doing anything else but the whole point of this car was to be a fun car for summer. I originally wanted it to be done before school ended but now I'm aiming to try and finish it before august. I do plan to possibly have the car sideways so idk if that affects the decision to port considering that guy said it could raise HP but lower torque. Also I already bought the wife and and electronic boost controller so that's dealt with. Is this close to a 300 hp setup? Also found a guy in by area (Calgary Alberta Canada) selling a custom b21ft exhaust manifold that's already milled flat, this is optimal for what I'm doing but will it fit my head? Thanks again.
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Old 07-07-2017, 06:27 PM   #8
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Other than this one, I'll ignore your typos:
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Originally Posted by maxitoman007 View Post
Also I already bought the wife and and electronic boost controller so that's dealt with.
Ahhh youth, you make it sound so easy. Did you get a good package deal and a warranty? At least she knows where your priorities lie.

For DIY tools, see: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/SpecialTools.html

For the engine, I'd put it together without porting the head -- to much opportunity for problems with not much return on a not-yet-running engine.

The Volvo turbos use a gasketless stepped flange on the turbo and a mating opposite step on the manifold. As long as you use compatible turbos, they mate up just fine. When swapping to a non-Volvo turbo with a flat mating surface, the manifold flange needs to be milled down. Info on 850 turbos: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=10961

The 90+ manifold flows better than the earlier B21FT log manifold. Keep your current one or upgrade to 90+, unless you really need flattened flange and the price for the milled B21FT is close to free. (Yes, the B21FT manifold has the same bolt pattern as the B230 heads.)
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Old 07-07-2017, 06:43 PM   #9
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Well the manifold is custom made so I would assume it would flow the same if not better than a 90+. I also meant to say wideband not wife lol and I think I'm gonna steer clear of porting because I feel like it's high risk low reward.
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Well the manifold is custom made so I would assume it would flow the same if not better than a 90+. I also meant to say wideband not wife lol and I think I'm gonna steer clear of porting because I feel like it's high risk low reward.
You would see more benefits in installing an original 531 head (for better flow) or using an mild, upgraded camshaft in the stock head (more volume), or a combination of both over porting a stock head and leaving the wimpy T cam in there.

A ported 90+ manifold will be sufficient to fit your goals.
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:18 PM   #11
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You can do it yourself for sure. The exhaust sides have a lot more that can be removed than the inside side but both can benefit from some work. A dremel though is not going to work well. I did mine with a large air compressor and a couple kits and a die grinder. My air compressor had trouble keeping up and it still took like 20 hours for a basic port and polish. There's several threads with good pictures (hopefully the pictures are still there after the photobuckocalypse) of porting work before after and cross sections.
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Old 07-07-2017, 11:02 PM   #12
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Ok, since I only have a dremel I think I'll avoid porting and opt later for an iPd turbo cam.
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Old 07-08-2017, 08:50 AM   #13
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I'd say throw some 38mm exhaust valves in a 531 and it'd flow wildly more than even a well fettled 530.
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Old 07-08-2017, 07:32 PM   #14
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Well honestly it's kinda hard to find parts out here in Alberta Canada, so I think I'm just gonna try work with what I got.
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Old 07-08-2017, 11:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EivlEvo View Post
I feel like there was a thread somewhere where someone had flow numbers (and better yet dyno numbers) for a ported 530 and non-ported 530 and the consensus was that porting on one side was minimally beneficial, and porting on the other side increased flow but netted a less desirable power curve or more HP less TQ or something odd.
linuxman51, you'll have to search it. The exhaust side benefits the most.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fortbrick View Post
You would see more benefits in installing an original 531 head (for better flow) or using an mild, upgraded camshaft in the stock head (more volume), or a combination of both over porting a stock head and leaving the wimpy T cam in there.

A ported 90+ manifold will be sufficient to fit your goals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
I'd say throw some 38mm exhaust valves in a 531 and it'd flow wildly more than even a well fettled 530.
This thread is now John V clickbait. Y'all gonna learn today.
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Old 07-09-2017, 11:05 AM   #16
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Guy sent me a link to the manifold he's selling me. Told me it was never used and he wants $40 USD for it. Here's the link :

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/T3-STAINLESS-RA...%257Ciid%253A4
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Old 07-09-2017, 11:16 AM   #17
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That manifold is absolutely garbage....it is made of 16gs steel....it will crack. For 40$ it would look kinda cool hanging on the wall!
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Old 07-09-2017, 11:17 AM   #18
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Oh and the flange will have to be cut flipped and rewelded
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Old 07-09-2017, 11:56 AM   #19
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Oh man seriously? I thought that was a steal.
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Old 07-09-2017, 12:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Oh man seriously? I thought that was a steal.
For that price it's worth it just for the flanges.
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Old 07-09-2017, 12:29 PM   #21
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What would I do with the flanges though, like why is it worth it for that? I do have a pre 90 manifold and a a 90+ manifold, but it has a hole that water can pass through in it. I'd also have to get it machined flat and do a bunch of other modifications in order to get it to fit the wastegate adapter plate I have. So for me it's just deciding between the three with cost in mind for machining etc. the thing I liked about the eBay manifold was that it is through-bolt style and already machined flat saving me lots of money and effort to make it work with the adapter plate.
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Old 07-09-2017, 12:58 PM   #22
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Having ported/polished and gasket matched a head I'll throw in my 2 cents...

The most important suggestion I have is to find a machine shop and do a proper head rebuild. Get a 3-position valve grind and install new valve guides. Hand lapping valves and deck is not the same as having a machine shop do it.
And if you are changing the cam, do you need heavier springs? And the springs should be shimmed to properly fit the new cam.

Headwork is the starting point. Otherwise, you could be throwing money into a motor that will cook the head.

Porting/polishing can be done with a Dremel but it is very time consuming.

There is tons of info on head porting/polishing on the web as it is a classic hot rodding modification. The techniques used on an American V-8 heads apply to a Volvo 530 head.

When you look in the head ports you can see where the crisp edges are from the factory production. Those are the most important areas to smooth out.

The intake side should NOT be polished smooth but retain a slight texture to create rough air for proper air/fuel mixture. The exhaust side should be smooth.

If you are going to the trouble of porting/polishing then gasket match, but with quality OEM gaskets.

Good luck
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Old 07-09-2017, 01:17 PM   #23
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Yea I don't think I can afford to bring it to a machine shop, after all this is a super budget build so I'm doing everything myself where possible. So would you suggest gasket matching if I have to do it with a dremel? Did you see any significant performance improvements? Also if I weee to use a dremel, how time consuming would it be, like how long are we talking here? Also what bits would you use?
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Old 07-09-2017, 05:20 PM   #24
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Quote:
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super budget build
Super budget would be slapping that head back on and go to town. Any grinding materials are going to cost money. Once you pull the head apart you might as well do a valve job and stem seals, guides are probably good enough. Again, more money.

Just boost that thing and spend money on a cam down the road.
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Old 07-09-2017, 07:05 PM   #25
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Well I already have valve lapping compound so I might as well do that. I also have a full head gasket and seal replacement set which has hushers and guides so I might as well install those. As for porting the head I'm still indecisive.
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