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Old 04-07-2010, 11:14 AM   #151
stylngle2003
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that turbo would have worked, but that's about 3x what I would have ever paid for that setup (not to mention what you'd pay in a junkyard) but whoever sold it is the luckiest man i know. $350 shipped for a 13c with a stock 90+ and an oil feed line? JEEEEEESUS
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:09 PM   #152
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Agreed. Mostly. I am talking about the threads where you read and read but the question is never truly answered, OR the problem isn't your exact issue. I can agree with needing to piece info together. And no, nobody owes anybody info. But when you are on a forum such as this, it is implied/expected to answer questions and help out. No matter how noobish the questions are. Everybody starts somewhere.



Come on man. I hate seeing stuff like that. I am all about anybody trying something new. This forum(mainly you) is built off doing stuff we don't know much about. Like I said, everyone starts somewhere. Doesn't mean they shouldn't do it.
You have been on this board for 5 years.. So instead of crying about the lack of a "list" why don't you make one up? I would suggest to break it down by model and year....I hope to see your 1st draft by the end of the week....
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Old 04-22-2010, 02:04 PM   #153
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Post t-na bottom end

Been ages since ive posted on here but i too did a write up years ago on a 740turbo that i built. So i will give a huge post of my experiences.. I went a waaay different direction in my na-t though.. I had a turbo car(1990 744t) with turbo ecu-i wanted a na block -more compression , more power! I bought a used b230f out of a salvage yard for $100 ,125k on it, used the turbo head (sodium valves.. not really an issue) a supra fuel pump in tank (mk3 turbo) and supra mk3 fuel injectors. I had supra parts laying around everywhere! I bypassed the injector resistor by jumpering it back to itself. I used a radio shack potentiometer on the signal wire from the airmass meter to the ecu and adjusted my airfuel with the potentiometer.. It was a $2.25 air fuel controller, why use safc? Your 02 sensor adjusts for idle and part throttle mode, and the amm takes over when the boost hits the fan.
Anyone who has tuned a car knows that part throttle is usually the most difficult to tune-this is where the lh2.4 shines and adapts amazingly well to large mods-this is already tuned for you thru slowly running your car thru it paces. All i adjusted for(with pot) was for part to wot.Because of the 440 cc supra injectors the hardest part of this whole project was the first initial start up, the o2 sensor wanted to see less injector than what i had in it. It kept flooding it! It took about 10 minutes (no ****) to start the car, then the ecu learned over it and it worked great from there. I bolted a turbo oil return line upside down into the top of the oil pan and used ss hose and a turbo return line gasket (because thats all i had at the time). A friend of mine ,Jack Harris had a shop in Nc and offered to dyno my car when i drove it from Tx to NC and back to Tx. He had questioned the validity of my potentiometer and its relevance to my application. We strapped it up on his dyno (mustang ) at p1 auto (his shop) . I had g-teched it earlier at 327whp , but doubted that ..Even though i pulled my moms vette in Va..So we strapped it up and turned the pot to wide open(hardly any resistance). Car wouldnt rev past 3500 and was waaay rich. Then turned it down to the setting i liked and the airfuel drastically changed. If i remember correctly it made 195 wheel i believe with the turbo falling off and 235 ft pound on a na motor (big rod).
I posted up details of all this maybe 5-8 years ago.Then forgot my password and had to change username.
I noticed on the drive back the car was getting slower and slower, then i saw the turbo was loose. I remember being disappointed at the dyno runs !
I don't know where the heck the post went, i even included the air fuel change on the dyno along with the runs..It works but you have to have a clue as to what you are doing. I always ran 93 octance and when i knew i was gonna beat on it i would add two cans of Berrymans B-12 (it has toluene as main ingredient which was the f1 fuel of choice in turbo era where 91 ci motors in the back of the line where making 1100hp-also used in TNT!) which is also great for cleaning stains off concrete and melting bees!
I haven't seen anyone mention this thru-out this whole thread, so i will make it Known.. If you plan to beat on your car for more than 20 seconds continuously, like say doing a top speed run down a highway with your buddys b-16a bottle fed hatch , for a hour or so on and off, be prepared to pull over and call a tow truck.. You will melt the motor if you stay in it for way too long , and don't ever allow the intercooler and turbo and motor to cool down..Have common sense..I apparently didn't have any , so i learned me some sense! That was my own mistake for melting it but it ran with that same setup for a few years. had i not been a jackass, that motor would still be kicking..
I also used a turbo off of an merkur xr4ti that i found in a salvage yard..After i got back to Tx i put an npr intercooler on it and ran it at Kennedale 1/8th mile track. It ran a 9.0 with a 2.1 60 foot (1 tire fire) and broke the trans on the second boost launch of the night..It was a fun car. I sold it when i left Texas with a 16valve stuffed in it with a regal turbo welded on a fabbed down pipe off the stock exhaust manifold, divorce sucks in the middle of a big project..

Fast forward, Did the same list of mods to a friends 92 940 turbo, BUT -SMALL rod na block w squirters, merkur xr4ti turbo, potentiometer WIThOUT the supra injectors (he never would put them in -i told him the pot is pointless without larger injectors) and he added a huge front mount intercooler to it, i mean it was freakin massive, he cut the front bumper supports out -had to move headlights and all kinds of Nonsense to get this intercooler to fit when i was working at Alamo Autosports. I told him to keep the boost down, so he kept it down for a month,10psi- then cranked it to 20 and beat the living daylights out of this 940, turbo kept comeing loose , intercooler pipes keep blowing off and splitting hoses. But he road raced it at TMS and daily drove the car and was always doing 1/4 mile burnouts with it... Apparently Lucky at Ipd and he, had some great plans for this car-but they didnt pan out due to financial restraints..ANYWAY,That car was amazingly faster than my 740 with comparable mods, less the giant intercooler he had-psi per psi. Plus he was able to run 20 psi w/o hitting fuel cut. i could only run 13-with 15 psi initial spike. Moral of the story is if you go na to turbo, the lh2.4 i think- is most forgiving. That's why i now have a 1993 945 t with a na bottom end in it with smaller rods.. It makes more power pound for pound, but over all may not be able to handle as much power as a thick rod motor -say a b23ft. The volvo red blocks, each one in its own respect is tough as nails. But- tuning, common sense, and preventive maintenance is everything! Anyone can blow up any turbo motor if they keep their foot in it long enough. Keep that in mind!

End short story.

Kris Weldy

My current turbo car orig, with a na bottom end , slotted "A" cam and oversize exhaust Valves that KNox did the headwork on , And Vince Ported.
http://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy...=1231631602478

Last edited by haltechsupra; 04-23-2010 at 01:31 PM.. Reason: vid
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:01 PM   #154
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I just recently got a 70,000 mile b230f motor and i am going to convert it into a T.I also have a b230ft that is in my 1990 volvo 740T.So i will be using the cam,injectors and exhaust intake from the b230ft.I was wondering if any1 knows what size hole i should drill on the bottom of the b230f block i can see where the hole goes im just not too sure on the size of the drill bit i should use.Also do you use some type of a rubber grommit that the turbo return line goes into or does it have to be tapped and have a fitting installed.
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:49 PM   #155
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Went +t, and I regret it. I have a B230 with 250 k on it, and I put a 13 C on it. The car drives, but it now smokes incredibly. So much, it's undrivable. It smokes at idle (sometimes more smoke than others) and under acceleration. It's also spitting out ALOT of oil. Could my oil feed be messed up? Is the turbo a goner? Did I plus T a engine with too many miles?

EDIT: Just let it run for maybe 15 minutes, and it only smokes when I let off now.

Last edited by nickpro; 05-18-2010 at 08:18 PM..
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:39 PM   #156
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I just wanted to add this for any one thinking of adding a turbo to a Volvo. It is so easy if you stick to stock at first.

I received my 1988 240 for free. It hadn’t run in years but was in perfect condition otherwise. After a tune up and a trip to the salvage yard, I replaced the fuel system and away we went. We had a hard time adjusting to the raw power of the stock motor so we decided to +T it. So I purchased a cheap ass turbo 1987 760 for scrap basically it was on its way to the salvage yard. I pulled off every part I thought I could use including the AR Garrett which needed a new turbine wheel and a rebuild. It was pretty easy with the help of eBay for the rebuild kit and Will Tillery for the wheel. It’s now as good as new. Well probably not, but it works great now.

We used the computer from the donor along with the intercooler and all the plumbing. Instead of using the green low impedance injectors and splicing in the resistor pack we decided on a set of high impedance new style Bosch red Turbo injectors 0 280 155 831. They are the skinny ones with better spraying 4 hole tips. This set up worked great for me I had absolutely no issue with the injectors and the donor computer along with the donors 3 bar fuel rail. I liked this setup better than more wire splicing.

We used a 90+ exhaust manifold. I cut the 760’s downpipe to fit. It wasn’t much metal that has to be removed but you have to get the angle right. It helps to have two people someone to line it up and someone to figure the cuts and the tack weld to hold it together while you mock it up. I didn’t have time to do the entire exhaust. So we bolted up the finished down pipe which fit like factory. I was even able to use the clamp that holds it to the bell housing. We cut out the cat but unfortunately we temporarily hooked up the stock exhaust to drive it to the exhaust guy for 3” pipe and a flow master I already have. It’s been many months and I haven’t made it in yet. Soon.

I drilled the block. Drilling the pan seemed functional but generic. I did it in place, sort of. We have a 5 speed m47 Standard transmission. We decided to replace the clutch at the same time. So we dropped the transmission unbolted the remaining 2 engine mounts then used an engine hoist to hover it in the engine bay. Doing it this way allowed me to move the engine up or down and side to side just a little but enough that it made the entire project much easier. So I would recommend if you're thinking of turboing your standard Volvo go ahead and hit that clutch at the same time, you’re probably going to need to anyway.

I will stop typing now and just say this if you are mechanically inclined its easy at least on an old Volvo. I spent about a week doing it but I replaced everything. I could do it now in a couple few days as long as all the parts are in order.

This is the only time I would ever utter such words but drill baby drill (your block that is, leave my shores alone I am willing to pay more for gas like every one else around the world. Oops too late, thanks dumb dumbs).

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Old 05-29-2010, 09:55 PM   #157
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pull the plugs and see if they are fouled...if not you probably are leaking oil from turbo (into exhaust). popped a carbon seal in my last 745 and would fog out at stop lights.
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Old 06-29-2010, 01:53 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickpro View Post
Went +t, and I regret it. I have a B230 with 250 k on it, and I put a 13 C on it. The car drives, but it now smokes incredibly. So much, it's undrivable. It smokes at idle (sometimes more smoke than others) and under acceleration. It's also spitting out ALOT of oil. Could my oil feed be messed up? Is the turbo a goner? Did I plus T a engine with too many miles?

EDIT: Just let it run for maybe 15 minutes, and it only smokes when I let off now.
your turbo seals are f%$#@d. pull that 13c and I bet you have some serious shaft play too. Check it soon or it'll look like someone threw rocks into a blender.
had the same issue on my audi a4--tons of smoke but only when I let off and the turbo spools down. if your exhaust permits, listen as the turbo is spooling down. It should start to smoke as soon as the sound of the turbo stops.
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:02 PM   #159
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your turbo seals are f%$#@d. pull that 13c and I bet you have some serious shaft play too. Check it soon or it'll look like someone threw rocks into a blender.
had the same issue on my audi a4--tons of smoke but only when I let off and the turbo spools down. if your exhaust permits, listen as the turbo is spooling down. It should start to smoke as soon as the sound of the turbo stops.
Yeah, got a new 13c, no more smoke. I also got a turbo ECU, but i'm still on NA injectors so it wont start.
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Old 07-22-2010, 03:37 AM   #160
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Ok, hopefully I'll find an answer to this, but as I read most everyone has swapped the ignition and fuel computers over directly from a 7 series to a 2 series with no issue. Well when I used my donor ignition computer I got nothing, the car is a '87 745 with a B230FTi, M46 manual. The ignition box from that car is a 0 261 201 012. The computer out of the '91 244 B230F AW71 has a p/n of 0 227 400 169. The boxes have the same plug in's but the turbo box will not run the N/A car in the testing I have been doing before I take apart the 240.

From what I have been looking at the '91 240 with a 5 wire AMM should be LH 2.4, like the '87 745, but when I look at the fuel computers, they use completely different plugs. Which is contradictory to what most of the information in this thread has presented. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to yank out the wiring harness from the 745 to make this work, unless someone else has a better idea.
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Old 07-22-2010, 04:10 AM   #161
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From what I have been looking at the '91 240 with a 5 wire AMM should be LH 2.4, like the '87 745, but when I look at the fuel computers, they use completely different plugs. Which is contradictory to what most of the information in this thread has presented. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to yank out the wiring harness from the 745 to make this work, unless someone else has a better idea.
From the way this reads, it appears that you are under the impression that an '87 745 uses LH 2.4, but that is incorrect. The '87 model would have come with LH 2.2.

Additionally, the 2.2 cars used a hall sensor in the distributor while the 2.4 cars use a crank position sensor for ignition location.

To run your 240 +T, you'll need computers from a '90+ 7/9-series turbo car.
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Old 07-22-2010, 04:57 AM   #162
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Ok, so I do need different computer boxes. Well that puts a little pause in my build. I guess I'll go out to Lamar auto tomorrow and see if he has anything useful. I keep looking at the wiring diagrams from the two cars trying to figure out how it could possibly work between the two, but the different LH generations would certainly explain it.

Thanks man.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:59 PM   #163
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what's all the parts i need for my 90 240 dl, its a standard, i understand i need an intercooler and turbo from a 740 turbo and a manifold. but what else? i can't wait
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Old 11-07-2010, 11:20 PM   #164
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So, I have just yesterday, started on my 89 240+T conversion.... I seem to have started before i was genuinely ready. I have all of the parts I expected to need, and I have read this http://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0024 , I have all the major peices, but it has been the minor, less detailed bits that I've gotten caught on. I havent found ANY photos or detailed threads on the oil sender line for the turbo. I have found one with images about the turbo coolant lines, one was spliced into the upper radiator hose and the other seemed to have been twards the overflow. I was hoping to find some help on the coolant and oil lines. I have decided to weld a bung to the oil pan, only because I dont have a tap set currently. I've just recently purchased a welder to finish the rest of the exhaust, which is more than half way finished. I have modified the downpipe from the 940, the donor I got everything from, to basically the stock position. I'm still debating on a side pipe or just straight out the rear. Any suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated. Hopefully I can get some photos up of my progress soon on my own thread. Thanks for the help.

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Old 11-07-2010, 11:33 PM   #165
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i used to just tee off the oil pressure sender port, other people have pulled the plug out of the front of the block and used a 3/8s npt-AN converter and run the oil feed that way.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:05 AM   #166
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the sender from the turbo? but the plug would be just under the water pump right? thats what it looked like in the photo I did find with it.

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Old 11-30-2010, 09:27 PM   #167
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I have read everything I could find on +T-ing my 1988 740 GLE. However, I am dyslexic, so I am asking for direct help. Also I am 16 and this is my first car. My donor car is a 1990 740 turbo wagon with a blown head gasket. I havn't removed anything from it yet, as I do not know if the list of parts to remove is correct. Help me correct my list of parts for my project!

- exhaust manifold
- exhaust system
- intercooler and piping
- oil pan off of b230ft (the owner of the 1990 wagon is giving me a spare he has)
- i am buying a rebuilt or better condition turbo
- bosch turbo ECU (I dont know if it is a 2.2 or 2.4)
- injectors off of an 850 turbo (so I don't have to wire in the resistor pack)
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:58 PM   #168
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Oil pans are the same to my knowledge. People suggest a different pan so you can put an oil return there instead of the block.
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:22 AM   #169
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Would it be okay to put the oil return on the oil pan, or would it be better to put it on the block? I would like a reliable turbo system, but drilling into the block sounds tedious.
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:27 AM   #170
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Would it be okay to put the oil return on the oil pan, or would it be better to put it on the block? I would like a reliable turbo system, but drilling into the block sounds tedious.

I bet a good amount of +T cars have the oil go back right to the oil pan...heck, if you look at the where the hole is on the block it is only a few inches above the oil pan, so no reason it won't work....cast iron drills easily, but I'd only do this with the motor out of the car myself
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:29 AM   #171
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your car is LH2.2, the donor car is LH2.4. You can upgrade to 2.4 fairly easily, but the big hurdle is swapping on the crank sensor wheel which is part of the flywheel/flexplate. Also, turbos usually had better transmissions than non turbos. I'd be tempted, if you're going to the hassle of 90+ LH2.4 Turbo (worth it for the tunability/gains, i think) to just replace the headgasket on your donor engine and swap the whole engine/transmission combo right in.

then it's all in one piece, and you've had a chance to look it over before install
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:47 AM   #172
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I want to use my engine because it is just shy of 200,000 km. Where the donor car is well over 350,000 km. Should I plug in an ecu from a turbo 740 that uses a 2.2 system? Or should I adapt to make the 2.4 system work? I am not looking forward to opening up my engine to change parts.
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:55 AM   #173
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that would be an easier conversion. did not realize the parts car was high mileage. the block is a fine location, as is the pan (for most users) for an oil drain, either way you have to drill it carefully.

wiring wise, on a 740, you will have to add a resistor circuit for the injectors, and swap ignition and fuel computers. lengthen the amm wires to the passenger side, swap injectors and fuel pressure regulator, and thats about it that doesn't involve installing a turbo.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:12 AM   #174
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Okay, but I am using 850 Turbo injectors because apparently they have the right resistance and are good for high flow. Thus removing the need for a resistor circuit. I though the ecu was both the ignition and fuel computer...... explain...... sorry lol.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:27 AM   #175
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and swap fuel pressure regulator to what? The one from the 90+ turbo 740? What is the reason for lengthening the air mass meter wires?
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