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B5254T 500hp + engine build

I would like to see 550-600whp to start.
The China rods are more than strong enough for that at a fraction of the cost of custom made Carrillo's.

Better off reading people's threads that actually make power and use their cars with the motor you are wanting to use. People like Lankku.
 
In Russia it is very popular to use automatic aisin on Toyota for drag racing. And already quite a few cars are do 8-9 seconds with these transmissions. The Volvo has a very similar transmission, so I thought that it could be upgraded for use at high power.

You write that you are using the 1.8 mothronic for 300 hp cars. And how does this ECU understand that there is a boost? Or are you together with the standard ECU, use another megasquirt for the second row of injectors?
Then there must be some other mods than just a basic shift kit? And I'd think that after that it's not the best place for a regular enthusiast to spend money.

Wrote "under 300hp" ;-) 2.5l with T6 turbos made about 260hp(according to 1/4mile pass) and my current daily has been dynoed for 278hp @ 0.5bar with HX40. Both with bone stock Motronic 1.8, T6 injectors, 0.5-1.0bar higher fuel pressure and E85. I've driven the latter about 16000km/10000miles since last February.


Basic Chinise/MaxSpeeding/SPM/Eagle/etc. rods are what I've been using all the time and my friend also has those in his +1000hp engine. They all look basically the same. Never had any problems considering durability.

I'll put out one example considering the durability of Chinise rods. Had a major breakdown due to ignition problems, broke headgasket and the pressure even cracked outside wall of the block from the intake side. Along with this the engine had a severe hydrolock and two W?ssner piston pins bent. No damage whatsoever on the rods or HD pistons. Everything inspected in a machine shop. I'm still using those rods and pistons(with stock Volvo pins) and have had some track time with 1.7bar boost(K31).

If someone wants to spend more money on rods, go ahead. But I don't think there's nothing more to gain than just a little less rotating weight.
 
The China rods are more than strong enough for that at a fraction of the cost of custom made Carrillo's.

Better off reading people's threads that actually make power and use their cars with the motor you are wanting to use. People like Lankku.

I agree with you 100%, I was just going to come back with what it would cost in case others were interested for whatever reason. I have incentives to buy Carrillo products, which is why I use them in my engines instead of cheaper alternatives.
 
Then there must be some other mods than just a basic shift kit? And I'd think that after that it's not the best place for a regular enthusiast to spend money.

Wrote "under 300hp" ;-) 2.5l with T6 turbos made about 260hp(according to 1/4mile pass) and my current daily has been dynoed for 278hp @ 0.5bar with HX40. Both with bone stock Motronic 1.8, T6 injectors, 0.5-1.0bar higher fuel pressure and E85. I've driven the latter about 16000km/10000miles since last February.


Basic Chinise/MaxSpeeding/SPM/Eagle/etc. rods are what I've been using all the time and my friend also has those in his +1000hp engine. They all look basically the same. Never had any problems considering durability.

I'll put out one example considering the durability of Chinise rods. Had a major breakdown due to ignition problems, broke headgasket and the pressure even cracked outside wall of the block from the intake side. Along with this the engine had a severe hydrolock and two W?ssner piston pins bent. No damage whatsoever on the rods or HD pistons. Everything inspected in a machine shop. I'm still using those rods and pistons(with stock Volvo pins) and have had some track time with 1.7bar boost(K31).

If someone wants to spend more money on rods, go ahead. But I don't think there's nothing more to gain than just a little less rotating weight.


Yes, of course, these are not exactly standard transmissions. But up to 500 hp. almost standard transmissions on Toyota are maintained. There are a lot of such cars in Russia.

If I correctly understood you, the standard 1.8 motronic can handle the correct work on the boost to 0.5? MAF sensor is also stock? That is, the sensor sensor counts the air flow, and on this basis the standard Motronic 1.8 with turbo can add fuel, through more efficient injectors and higher fuel pressure? Is this enough for the correct operation of the motor at a power of about 280 hp? Do you think this trick will work correctly on the 4.4 motronic? I think my 2.9 engine may require a repair soon, so I'm thinking about replacing it with a 2.8 turbo. .... I will have enough 250-270 hp. But the problem is that I can not use e85, it is not sold in our country. Only 95-98th gasoline. Car for daily trips.
 
If I correctly understood you, the standard 1.8 motronic can handle the correct work on the boost to 0.5? MAF sensor is also stock? That is, the sensor sensor counts the air flow, and on this basis the standard Motronic 1.8 with turbo can add fuel, through more efficient injectors and higher fuel pressure? Is this enough for the correct operation of the motor at a power of about 280 hp? Do you think this trick will work correctly on the 4.4 motronic? I think my 2.9 engine may require a repair soon, so I'm thinking about replacing it with a 2.8 turbo. .... I will have enough 250-270 hp. But the problem is that I can not use e85, it is not sold in our country. Only 95-98th gasoline. Car for daily trips.

It would seem so. E85 makes it easier considering ignition advance. Haven't driven in the dyno to check how much advance it gives. Would guess that it's too much for 95 or 98.

For gasoline uou could "cheat" with bigger injectors and air mass meter just like with LH2.4. Easiest choice would be to find someone who could do a custom chip. Motronic 4.4 is similar/same in 5-cylinder engines, so someone with the knowledge to customize those should be able to do it(?). Best choice would be of course MS2 V3 or similar. Small modifications to wiring, IAT sensor and it's ready to run.
 
Lankku, do you have any pictures of how you filled the gaps between the cylinders and the block? I guess the principal is pretty simple but I'd be interested to see an example.
 
Were you referring to this? Courtesy of Lankku's <a href="http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=309746">build thread</a> in his signature.

145.jpg
 
0.8mm or thinner depending how much the cast has collapsed. A little tight fitment is good, assembly tapping with a hammer.

Is your BMW 6 speed tranny from a E90 330d car? Are there other BMW models carrying that transmission because these 330d are a pretty rare sauce over here!
 
E90/91 325, 330, same age 525, 530D and some other diesel models have bigger GS6-53DZ. Smaller engines have GS6-37DZ which can take at least 700Nm. I have this behind my milder 6-cyl. A search with tranny models shows where you can find one. I've bought all but one from Germany or UK through Ebay, here those are more expensive.
 
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