clutch cable adjustment problem

ok

m46 on 245... pedal over the years kept getting harder and harder to push down. This week I switched to a newer style cable (used) to see if it was any different. I had tons of flop in the clutch fork. I could pretty adjust the cable to its max and get the reverse not to grind but the pedal was hard as a wedding prick.


Since now was a good time as any to swap to t5 trans I did so this weekend. New clutch (got it from HUB who got it new from Yoshi), new pilot bearing, new to bearing (Ford Racing for use as their "M-7548-A), new pressure plate (sach). reused flyweel (flat) and clutch cable.


m46 had a complete failure pilot bearing and pressure plate fork were worn out completely.


so I go to adjust my cable today and same problem. Stiff pedal and bottomed out adjustment... fuk

Did you replace the throwout bearing arm? They bend over time and then you loose a lot of adjustment.

Used a NOS one with ben's brass adapters for TO bearing

lubed the shaft for it and clutch too

How does the pedal look? Any excessive wear where the cable attaches to the pedal? I've also had bad pressure plates which made the pedal effort much too high. The only way I figured it out was to replace the clutch again.

dl242gt said:

How does the pedal look? Any excessive wear where the cable attaches to the pedal? I've also had bad pressure plates which made the pedal effort much too high. The only way I figured it out was to replace the clutch again.

Click to expand...

The old pressure plate had worn out finger and this one is brand new. I thought when I was replacing it that I found the problem

The cable in the cabin was good. I need to check the actual pedal.



edit.. I wonder if the TO bearing Im using is ****... wonder what ben meant by too short (forgot all about this until now...fuk)

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=332753




Im trying to picture this but cant right meow. If I notch the clutch fork and move bend it back(?) would that help? Then weld it

or just dumb idea?

Can someone confirm this


Not my picture but I installed these with the longer sides parrarel to the fork... was it suppose to go the opposite ?

I've had a brand new clutch cable in our family Astra F, and the pedal effort was just too hard... I oiled the housing and cable and it became buttery smooth. This was after using a new clutch setup for 2-3 years and the cable snapped.

Also as the clutch disk wears, pedal effort gets harder and harder.

By the way those bronze thingies need to be parallel to the bearing, perpendicular would not give stable position. (and by looking at it, it wouldn't even fit)

How does the fork look like without clutch cable? Appears to be in a good angle or not? A short TO bearing can easily make this situation.

Link to "Bens brass adaptors" please

https://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240/products/240-dual-pattern-ford-t5-tko-adapter-plate

The brass blocks have a height offset. You want the thicker side moved towards the throw out bearing. The length doesn't matter.

Its best to use them with the McLeod Ford adjustable throw out bearing. You can also probably get away with shimming the factory fork forwards at the pivot.

blkaplan said:

https://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240/products/240-dual-pattern-ford-t5-tko-adapter-plate

The brass blocks have a height offset. You want the thicker side moved towards the throw out bearing. The length doesn't matter.

Its best to use them with the McLeod Ford adjustable throw out bearing. You can also probably get away with shimming the factory fork forwards at the pivot.

Click to expand...

cool thats what I did

I just ordered the adjustable one... figured even if I fuk with the fork I will still have a raceboi stiff clutch pedal

thats quite the difference in the adjustable bearing and the stock one