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Lookie what I just bought....

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GrandmaSideways

AW71AW71AW71 AW71AW71AW71
Joined
Dec 12, 2006
Location
Vancouver B.C.
Via my sooper secret Swedish parts source.

A spotlight switch

&



Yup that's right. All the way from the motherland, the rare DIGITAL ambient temperature gauge. Also includes the sensor for the interior temperature that mounts inside the handbrake console...


Don't bother asking me for the website, there's no way I'm going to give it up, and besides, there's nothing good left right now anyways.
 
the digital temp gauge is cool.

spot light switch is a bit useless IMHO

Not really, as I'm actually going to hook it up to pencil beams.
He also has an interior dome light switch.



Just bought this. I figure with the amount I would want to use it, it's a good idea. Only think I like about my friend's 740.
 
yes i understand that, but such lights you want to turn on and off at the same time as the high beams on your normal headlights, and it's kinda hard to flick ya high beams off at the same times as your spots so not to blind on coming traffic, which is why it's usually better to trigger the relay that runs off them of the highbeam wire on one of your headlights.
 
yes i understand that, but such lights you want to turn on and off at the same time as the high beams on your normal headlights, and it's kinda hard to flick ya high beams off at the same times as your spots so not to blind on coming traffic, which is why it's usually better to trigger the relay that runs off them of the highbeam wire on one of your headlights.

I suppose.
At the same time, I find there's a lot to be said for having full control over my system.
When I got my red car, I was dissapointed to find that I was unable to run both highbeams and the factory foglights at the same time.
I'll have to look at the wiring schematic for that, and figure a way to have it so I can run normal highbeams when the switch is not turned on, and then when the switch is turned on, it only works when I trigger the highbeams.
 
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just set it up so the trigger wire for the relay runs through that switch.

Yup.
Again just look at the schematic for the foglight, then wire it up so instead of being switched off when highbeams are activated, being switched off when lowbeams are activated.
Anyways. Not too worried.
 
sorry i wasn't talking about foglights, there not important you don't need foglights when running high beam as in fog the high beam causes light reflection off the fog whist the fog lights are short range wide angle stuff.

i was talking about the trigger wire i mentioned before for a spot light setup, run through the switch so you can chose ether to have the spots triggered with the high beam or not.
 
Yeah I've got one already. It was free.
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Oh and one of those too. It was free as well.
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Also with that ticket holder, you'll either need a a pillar cover from a 93 or notch your current cover.
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Don't bother asking me for the website, there's no way I'm going to give it up...

Nice gadgets you got there, but I thought Tbricks was all about sharing ideas & resources with your fellow enthusiasts. Oh well, I guess I was wrong. But I'm still jealous and if you were standing in front of me, I'd flick a booger @ you.:-P


...and besides, there's nothing good left right now anyways.

How `bout letting us be the judge of that!?!?
 
Yup.
Again just look at the schematic for the foglight, then wire it up so instead of being switched off when highbeams are activated, being switched off when lowbeams are activated.
Anyways. Not too worried.

Except that fogs + highs serve mututally exclusive purposes. High beams are for high speed distance visiion, fogs are for low speed close up vision in the fog. You can certainly wire up some aux driving lights with the high beams, but why bother doing fogs + highs?
 
Except that fogs + highs serve mututally exclusive purposes. High beams are for high speed distance visiion, fogs are for low speed close up vision in the fog. You can certainly wire up some aux driving lights with the high beams, but why bother doing fogs + highs?

More light on the road in clear conditions.
I find that switching to high beams you lose a lot of the stuff close to you, and a little less direct wide angle. Some idiots will drive holding down their switch, effectively running both the low beam and high beam filament at the same time. That also pushes twice the current through the wiring and can be a deadly mistake should the wiring burn out at 80mph in the dark.
My 83' Ford with the US-mandated quad square headlamps would leave the lowbeams running when the highbeams were on.
 
Vancouver,

Used to find that with the Ford Transit vans we've got over here; the range was gash with main on, lost everything nearby, so on rural roads would hold the switch on... on the same road in a volvo no problem!
 
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