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Pdx dl

Good news / bad news. Bad news first. The motor mounts are shot. Likely due to the massive torque of these mills.

Tried to get my filter wrench around the can and ran into this:


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It's worth remembering that the 240 was a "OEM turbo car" until like 1985 or something, and the 740 and 940 were available turbocharged when your car was new, so finding factory-fit bits to turbo your car would not be too challenging, especially where you are. Commonly referred to as a +T around these parts. Much better bang-for-buck doing that than trying to get power naturally aspirated

EDIT: Go with OEM Volvo motor mounts or you may well see that every time you go to take the filter off.

EDIT2: cutting the tab or brake line should not be necessary for removal of the strut. I haven't done brake lines on a 240 but you should be able to get the line detached.
 
Good news: I tried to remove the pinstripes with a razor blade. After nicking the paint in the first six inches I stopped. Today at the auto paint supply store they set me up with this slick "eraser." Very fast, no paint damage. I did burn up about half the wheel doing two stripes though. Seems to work on the moulding double sided tape residue as well.


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It's worth remembering that the 240 was a "OEM turbo car" until like 1985 or something, and the 740 and 940 were available turbocharged when your car was new, so finding factory-fit bits to turbo your car would not be too challenging, especially where you are. Commonly referred to as a +T around these parts. Much better bang-for-buck doing that than trying to get power naturally aspirated

EDIT: Go with OEM Volvo motor mounts or you may well see that every time you go to take the filter off.

EDIT2: cutting the tab or brake line should not be necessary for removal of the strut. I haven't done brake lines on a 240 but you should be able to get the line detached.

Great stuff. Thanks!

Maybe in a year or so I'll have the car sorted and look into making power. This thing has to be totally whipped.
 
So, we drop the front. I found these cool spacers to correct the control arm angle.

http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=mcpherson-spacer-for-200-series

How about camber? Do I need plates or is the 240 adjustable?

http://www.retroturbo.com/?product_cat=camberplates-200suspension

You are making this much harder than it needs to be. You really need to talk to Ben Kaplan (user name Blkaplan on the board). He runs a little shop called Kaplhenke.com. http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240 Pretty much has everything you are looking for. You can also talk to Josh at Yoshifab. Check out the links section on my website (www.yv1a.com) for some other useful resources.
 
Struts came off. Rubber brake lines: scary. Ball joints: death trap. Brake pads: good.

Looks like there is plenty of camber adjustment in the slots.

How many coils should I cut off?


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You are making this much harder than it needs to be. You really need to talk to Ben Kaplan (user name Blkaplan on the board). He runs a little shop called Kaplhenke.com. http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240 Pretty much has everything you are looking for. You can also talk to Josh at Yoshifab. Check out the links section on my website (www.yv1a.com) for some other useful resources.

Nice site!
 
Nice site!

thanks!

When I cut the springs on my first 240, I cut two full turns. One turn wasn't enough, two seemed about right without being too low. I did that in two stage (one turn, then the second a few weeks later). If you want to scrape the mud flaps, three turns would get you about there. You have very little suspension travel at that point though.

I ended up running iPD springs. Still a skosh high in the front, but I'm unwilling to cut the iPD springs. When my strut inserts die, I'll just get some of Ben's shortened coil overs.
 
thanks!

When I cut the springs on my first 240, I cut two full turns. One turn wasn't enough, two seemed about right without being too low. I did that in two stage (one turn, then the second a few weeks later). If you want to scrape the mud flaps, three turns would get you about there. You have very little suspension travel at that point though.

I ended up running iPD springs. Still a skosh high in the front, but I'm unwilling to cut the iPD springs. When my strut inserts die, I'll just get some of Ben's shortened coil overs.

I was thinking two coils as well. Probably go one coil on the rear to start. (Got to carry my dirt bike / see photo.) This will be "stage one" of the build. Later we'll do sway bars, bushings, struts and springs.

I am thinking about doing the IPD rear track bar and some steering alignment spacers at this point. Any suggestions on spacer suppliers?


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Cutting the springs makes the car lower and might look cooler, but I don't recommend cutting the springs at all as it makes the ride way harsher and if you go over a bunch of bumps it can make the top of the strut tower bulge up and not be flat anymore as the hammering on it from the stiffness of the front suspension will cause that. But easy to fix with a hammer. Also if your going to be putting your motorbikey on the back like that I'd get the IPD rear wagon overload springs. That is what I do with all my wagons. Look how much your exploder goes up in the front and down in the back with that setup. Personally I use a little motorbikey trailer myself, plus I can put two on it. I'd use one of those motobikey carriers on my suckburban or my bus, but not a car...

1988 white wagon I fixed up for the GF. Stock front springs, KYB struts, IPD sway bar, cherry turbo upper strut brace, IPD lower brace. Rear has IPD 22mm bar, bilstien shocks, IPD overload springs. Still have to put the 2 inch receiver on the back. Handles great. Other thing is if you lower it in the front that changes steering geometry and you'd have to buy the kerplunky delio that fixes that. All that stuff is for racing so unless you want a race car, don't do it. For better handleing IPD front bar and upper and lower strut braces and new or good bushings and rubber strut tops is the way to go especially if your going to be driving off road you don't want it lower. Just my two cents from someone who has driven volvo's for years and up in the woods and around portland. Sure I lower my race cars for autocross racing. For rallycross, no.

Local club www.ovtuners.org

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I was thinking two coils as well. Probably go one coil on the rear to start. (Got to carry my dirt bike / see photo.) This will be "stage one" of the build. Later we'll do sway bars, bushings, struts and springs.

I am thinking about doing the IPD rear track bar and some steering alignment spacers at this point. Any suggestions on spacer suppliers?


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What, you're going to cripple it and then expect to do work with it?


You need to get some overloads for the back, and leave the fronts alone if you're planning on hanging a motorcycle off the back.
 
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I hear ya. If the bike and the rack (best guess 300 lbs) are too much, I may stuff some air bags in the rear coils. Or get a lightweight trailer.

Gotta look cool.

:roll:

This is just a play toy, not a daily driver.

Thanks for the tip on the local club.
 
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Lol. That was for the 24 hr last October. Always a mudder.

First race of the season (a six hr) this weekend. I'm going to be a bit rusty.
 
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