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Kenny's 1990 740 GLE, goin' for 9's

poulrais said:
Sure.. Until some assh*** kills himself and his family sues the track's owner for letting him drive intoxicated...:-P
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nah you sign a waiver before you get in the track that absolves them of responsibility for your own actions. so if you kill yourself for drag racing drunk, it's on you. if you kill other people at the same time, it's more than likely still on you, but spectators have to sign the same waiver, so who really knows.

that's the risk you take to watch racing. don't like it, stay at home :-P
 
linuxman51 said:
thanks for that. where was your car?
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Nah wasn't talking about u, just everybody car was messing up, including mine, that's why I couldn't even get there, I had to ride with a friend, my boy Josh red hatch that was racing started loosing compression, then I heard the news about the cars from AutoWorks and the harnesses, that freaking dude keeps doing people dirty I'm suprised he's not dead for real, the day started off bad in general
 
linuxman51 said:
nah you sign a waiver before you get in the track that absolves them of responsibility for your own actions. so if you kill yourself for drag racing drunk, it's on you. if you kill other people at the same time, it's more than likely still on you, but spectators have to sign the same waiver, so who really knows.

that's the risk you take to watch racing. don't like it, stay at home :-P
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I really wish more people though like this.
 
set timing, shorter alternator belt. test drive, car runs waaay better. and once again, the boost is wrong (this time, too low.. requested boost 280, boost at duty cycle: 240, so 20psi). and rich.

problem seemingly solved. need to check for loose bolts in the rear end, something made a different noise pulling in the driveway, from the back. chains cause an interesting vibration at around 3000rpms, so I think a different engine bracing solution will be devised. should probably also get new mounts.
 
linuxman51 said:
nah you sign a waiver before you get in the track that absolves them of responsibility for your own actions. so if you kill yourself for drag racing drunk, it's on you. if you kill other people at the same time, it's more than likely still on you, but spectators have to sign the same waiver, so who really knows.

that's the risk you take to watch racing. don't like it, stay at home :-P
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Insurance companies still don't take that risk here and won't cover the track as a result.
 
dude, do you want me to mail you some hockey pucks? you beeing a whieny bisnitch about the dam mount is getting old already. you could have ordered some and had them by now. glad its running better tho
 
boosted12a said:
dude, do you want me to mail you some hockey pucks? you beeing a whieny bisnitch about the dam mount is getting old already. you could have ordered some and had them by now. glad its running better tho
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I'm not whining about the goddamn mount, I just haven't built a third mount yet.. partly because sam has my welder right now, and mostly because I just haven't gotten around to it.

and those hockey pucks are expensive... looks like almost $2 apiece on amazon.com.
 
the timing issue is an interesting one, and something I've heard about once or twice regarding timing lights with advance/retard functions built in.. And it's something that's mentioned once or twice in the setup guide for the proEFI as well (I'm pretty sure I set it up correctly at some point, otherwise it wouldn't have thrown down 170whp NA. hell maybe it'da thrown down more :shrug: ).. one is to zero out the function on the light.. well ok, but that makes shooting the timing accurately down on the cover difficult, so I locked the advance to zero, and tagged the TDC markers on the intake cam and valve cover, and nailed it down that way... car rev'd really nice (Finally) in neutral, where before it had a tendency to be a little lazy.

Well, I thought about it after the fact, and decided to re-verify the timing, but this time just lock it to 25 degrees at idle, and shoot the cam gear that way.. well... that didn't work right, because I had to run the number up to 50 on the timing light, so I bumped back the trigger angle, thinking I'd made a mistake, wasn't looking at things dead on, that sort of thing. So today after work, I went back again, and shot this thing at zero again, and ended up with the same number I initially found yesterday, said F-it, it sounds good, idles pretty nicely, revs crisply, we're going to go for a drive. I have to wonder if this is an issue that has gone un-noticed in the past with MS? I don't really recall it being like that though.
 
I was setting mine up the other day and it behaved the same way (ms2, cas, wasted spark). I have a "good" ferret digital timing light. I locked the timing in ms at 10?, left the light at 0? and adjusted the cas until it read 10? on the timing cover.

If I set the advance on the light to 10?, it read around 5? at the crank. I set it to 20? and then it lined up at 0?. Since it is seeing a spark every revolution, it thinks the engine is spinning twice as fast and that probably affects the way it calculates the advance. Only thing I forgot to do was rev the engine up to see if it needed the hardware latency setting tweaked.
 
wennstroma said:
I was setting mine up the other day and it behaved the same way (ms2, cas, wasted spark). I have a "good" ferret digital timing light. I locked the timing in ms at 10?, left the light at 0? and adjusted the cas until it read 10? on the timing cover.

If I set the advance on the light to 10?, it read around 5? at the crank. I set it to 20? and then it lined up at 0?. Since it is seeing a spark every revolution, it thinks the engine is spinning twice as fast and that probably affects the way it calculates the advance. Only thing I forgot to do was rev the engine up to see if it needed the hardware latency setting tweaked.
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hm, interesting. Mine's a snap-on digital light, it's normally pretty good at this sorta thing.

regardless... one step forward, now for those two going backwards...
 
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