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Old 05-24-2018, 10:55 PM   #1
StreetForged
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Default 200~hp as cheap as possible

I have an automatic 1990 240DL that I just picked up last week and plan to use as a cheap beater drift project. I've already stripped out the entire rear interior and stripped the paint around all the rear seams to prepare for stitch welding, as well as welding the differential. The car doesn't have the guts to do anything in 2nd gear, so I'm in need of ballpark 200bhp to have an adequate amount of power to throw it around confidently. I am planning to buy a VX cam+cam gear for the car in a few days and am considering some form of backyard turbo setup. What would be the cheapest way to handle fuel management/ecu related stuff? I found an OEM turbo manifold for 90 dollars and will likely just use a generic intercooler piping kit.
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:00 PM   #2
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Find a 740 or 940 Turbo in the junkyard and grab parts off of it. Both ECU's, wiring harness, injectors, intercooler, etc, etc.

200 hp is really just all stock parts with a little higher boost.
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:22 PM   #3
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How would I accomplish an increase in boost pressure once swapping over to the b230ft ecu, a manual boost controller or something? Reflash?
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:43 PM   #4
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MBC and maybe bigger injectors is all you need. You can go up to 12psi pretty safely on a totally stock setup. If you have LH2.4 there are chips. If you have 3.1 I think you're gonna want to convert to 2.4. Don't forget the EZK box.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:07 AM   #5
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Thank you so much for the information! I've been loving the car so far despite the minimal power. My daily is an 2006 6 speed S60R so it's a bit of a downgrade in the power department, but it feels very nimble in comparison to the R and RWD is a necessity. One more question, 12psi is even safe on the non-turbo motors? I read something about the B230FTs coming with thicker rods that could handle ~16psi, but was nervous to run more than 8-10. This engine will likely be pushed a bit here though I am considering an upgraded radiator and external oil cooler hopefully in the short future.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:24 AM   #6
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Thank you so much for the information! I've been loving the car so far despite the minimal power. My daily is an 2006 6 speed S60R so it's a bit of a downgrade in the power department, but it feels very nimble in comparison to the R and RWD is a necessity. One more question, 12psi is even safe on the non-turbo motors? I read something about the B230FTs coming with thicker rods that could handle ~16psi, but was nervous to run more than 8-10. This engine will likely be pushed a bit here though I am considering an upgraded radiator and external oil cooler hopefully in the short future.
You need to run an oil cooler or you'll cook the turbo in no time. Even if you did blow up your motor, its easy/cheap enough to get another block. Search noob(to be fair, this guide is not easily found, I think its stick-ed somewhere on the forum).

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...7&postcount=37
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:24 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by StreetForged View Post
Thank you so much for the information! I've been loving the car so far despite the minimal power. My daily is an 2006 6 speed S60R so it's a bit of a downgrade in the power department, but it feels very nimble in comparison to the R and RWD is a necessity. One more question, 12psi is even safe on the non-turbo motors? I read something about the B230FTs coming with thicker rods that could handle ~16psi, but was nervous to run more than 8-10. This engine will likely be pushed a bit here though I am considering an upgraded radiator and external oil cooler hopefully in the short future.
90+ b230s have slightly bigger rods, the problem is the higher comp ratio on the na motor though 12psi should be fine
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:32 AM   #8
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90+ b230s have slightly bigger rods, the problem is the higher comp ratio on the na motor though 12psi should be fine
Is this true? 9.8:1 too much for boost? I didn't think that was the case
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:54 AM   #9
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Location? Search Craigslist for a parts car.
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Old 05-25-2018, 01:19 AM   #10
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I did check and there was only one parts car available nearby. I will likely be calling some local junkyards tomorrow if I have time. I'm in New Hampshire.
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Old 05-25-2018, 01:20 AM   #11
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Is this true? 9.8:1 too much for boost? I didn't think that was the case
I ran 20psi on my +t setup. Never had a detonation issue.
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Old 05-25-2018, 05:53 AM   #12
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Search Sam's U Pull it in Worcester, MA. Their website lists every car they have in their yard. It's $2.00 to enter the yard and it's like searching for treasure. Currently they only have 2 240s I believe, but a lot more of the newer 700, 800, and 900 cars. They pull the higher dollar more modern engine, but all of the Volvos I have seen there still have their motors in place. The added thing is that their prices are dirt cheap. If you are way up in NH and time is critical there are guys that don't work at the yard, but for a fee, usually around $200.00, will pull the entire engine and transmission for you.


I am actually heading there today and will take a look at what turbo stuff is still complete and available.
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:57 AM   #13
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Microsquirt or using the Bosch LH boxes from turbocars would be the way to go for the ecu.

If you aren't good at wiring and dont want to spend a lot of time tuning and tinkering stay with bosch stuff. If you want to play around alot, go microsquirt.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:08 PM   #14
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200 hp should be easy and requires no wiring at all aside from routing the amm pre turbo (other side of car).

-Install turbo and mani from a 90+ 7/9 series. Direct swap
-Modify downpipe to fit a 2 series.
-4an oil feed line from front of block
-10an oil drain to pan (hardest part of boosting a Volvo)
-Do what you want with intercooler piping but a stock intercooler will be easiest and work fine. It will essentially bolt right in and all pipes will line up.
-Remove your ecu/ezk and install turbo ecu/ezk. That’s literally it for the tune. Nothing else at all. Your car is lh2.4 because it’s auto. By the way, your auto will die instantly I bet. If staying auto just put in the aw71 from a factory turbo car.
-Use injectors from an 850 turbo as a direct swap, or use the 7/9 turbo injectors but you’ll need to wire in the resistor pack.
-Manual boost controller to 12psi should be right at 200bhp with a stock turbo.
-Run 93 octane.

Skip the vx cam and gear. You’re wasting money for your goals. I’d take the iPd turbo cam over that, but even then it’s not necessary.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:11 PM   #15
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Don't forget the 3:73 rear axle out of an automatic so it'll spin up at all, or better yet some 4:10 gears from a 7-9.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:11 PM   #16
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Don't forget the 3:73 rear axle out of an automatic so it'll spin up at all.
Its already an auto
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:17 PM   #17
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Its already an auto


Well then don't forget the AW71 from the donor car.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:20 PM   #18
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Well then don't forget the AW71 from the donor car.
Or he should run stock turbo power through an aw70 and tell us how long it lasts. Id be curious.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:22 PM   #19
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Or he should run stock turbo power through an aw70 and tell us how long it lasts. Id be curious.


One tire fire FTL doe.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:24 PM   #20
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90+ b230s have slightly bigger rods, the problem is the higher comp ratio on the na motor though 12psi should be fine
Despite the number of people that have put down 350 whp on unopened 90+ F blocks
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:24 PM   #21
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Or he should run stock turbo power through an aw70 and tell us how long it lasts. Id be curious.
it doesn't. I can answer that.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:26 PM   #22
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It's *easier* to throw boost at a lower compression ratio engine. With higher compression ratios you're much more sensitive* to variances in fuel octane and tuning 'issues'.



* Sensitive = ping ping boom
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:29 PM   #23
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200hp cheap? Slap that hoe with a 125 shot.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:31 PM   #24
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One tire fire FTL doe.
I welded my differential less than a week after I got the car. Not too worried about the auto detonating, then I'll have no excuse to go through with AW71 which I intended to do anyway. Just hoping the auto will hold up long enough for me to accumulate a bit of extra spending money.

I also really appreciate the gesture MSGGrunt, I'm on the Mass border so I could definitely make a trip down there if that's the best option.
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Old 05-25-2018, 01:12 PM   #25
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The aw70 will last if you stay out of boost but you’re not going to lol
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