Issues after front end collision

Hey all,

First time poster here. Two days ago I bought a 87' 244 and made the stupid choice of letting a friend drive it in the rain. Well, long story short he took a corner too fast and took it into a guard rail. Once we hit the rail the car immediately went into its highest rev before we shut it off and pushed it over to the side of the road to wait for a tow truck. Later on we were looking at it and found a broken ground wire. We also discovered that the battery that the old owner had was way too small so in the collision it tilted over the holder and arched itself. Since then we've been looking around since the car won't start and we think that we have narrowed down the issue to the starter solenoid. We tested the voltage on the solenoid and it made no voltage while we were starting the car, but I have read other places that the issue might also have something to do with the ignition switch or its automatic transmission. Anybody have any advice on things to test and look at? I'm probably going to take it to a shop just to get diagnosed then I'll do the part replacements myself, except for the body work. Thanks.

Which corner did it hit?
Have you checked the 25 amp fuse off the battery that sits on the driver side fender?
How are the cables from the battery to the starter?
I’d guess your issue has to do with the battery arcing itself and whatever it did to the electrical system, more than any physical damage from the impact.

mrak said:

Which corner did it hit?
Have you checked the 25 amp fuse off the battery that sits on the driver side fender?
How are the cables from the battery to the starter?
I?d guess your issue has to do with the battery arcing itself and whatever it did to the electrical system, more than any physical damage from the impact.

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It hit the front right corner. The cables from the battery to the starter are all intact and look fine.

I'm also assuming that the damage done is likely all electrical, but what do you think about the issue being more closely related to the ignition switch than the solenoid? or maybe its both

shobin said:

Since then we've been looking around since the car won't start

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Okay, let's "start" with the basics.

First, define your version of "won't start"...

1 - Turn the key "on", nothing happens.
2 - Turn the key on, dash lights up, turn to "start", engine does nothing.
3 - Turn the key to "start", engine goes cranky-cranky-cranky but doesn't fire.

Many different paths to follow depending on which version you have.

MasterBlaster said:

Okay, let's "start" with the basics.

First, define your version of "won't start"...

1 - Turn the key "on", nothing happens.
2 - Turn the key on, dash lights up, turn to "start", engine does nothing.
3 - Turn the key to "start", engine goes cranky-cranky-cranky but doesn't fire.

Many different paths to follow depending on which version you have.

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Turn the key and all the electrics work except for the reverse lights, although the engine does not turn over and the starter makes no sounds. The reverse lights didn?t work when I bought the car, but that makes me think that there might be an issue with something in the auto tranny.

Carefully inspect your rubber engine mounts (one on each side) and the rubber auto transmission mount (near driveshaft flange). They're designed to shear in a front end collision. Your description of "Once we hit the rail the car immediately went into its highest rev before we shut it off" makes me wonder if the engine/tranny shifted on impact and pulled on the shifter linkage and throttle cable.

There's a Park/Neutral interlock switch on the shifter that prevents cranking when in gear.

bobxyz said:

Carefully inspect your rubber engine mounts (one on each side) and the rubber auto transmission mount (near driveshaft flange). They're designed to shear in a front end collision. Your description of "Once we hit the rail the car immediately went into its highest rev before we shut it off" makes me wonder if the engine/tranny shifted on impact and pulled on the shifter linkage and throttle cable.

There's a Park/Neutral interlock switch on the shifter that prevents cranking when in gear.

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Yeah that sounds accurate, but would that have any residual impacts on the car or tranny. I'll check that a little later in the week I don't have time to look at her during the week. I have driven the car since the accident and it operated fine. I stuck a big metal screwdriver on one of the solenoids terminals to ground it then the engine turned over. Although I just took it around the neighborhood no more than 25 mph so it wasn't too good of a test.

I stuck a big metal screwdriver on one of the solenoids terminals to ground it then the engine turned over.

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With that bit of information I would suggest that your park/neutral interlock may be out of adjustment. Quick test . . . try to start it in neutral. Switch is located in the shift console on the floor.

TestPoint said:

With that bit of information I would suggest that your park/neutral interlock may be out of adjustment. Quick test . . . try to start it in neutral. Switch is located in the shift console on the floor.

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Or.... Hold key in crank position and move shifter from P to 1 and see where it cranks if at all.

Crush it.

Next!

Thanks for all the responses everybody!

I decided to take it down to a local Volvo specific shop today and he identified the issue within 30 seconds. The cables connecting into the battery terminal were all original and the the tubing had peeled back a little bit so they wouldn't fully conduct. Although now when I drive the car it makes a squeaking sound, but only in drive, not reverse. It sounds like it's coming from the tranny but I'm not sure.

I just can't seem to catch a break lol.

shobin said:

The cables connecting into the battery terminal were all original and the the tubing had peeled back a little bit so they wouldn't fully conduct.

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Having trouble understanding this, can someone explain?

tintintin said:

Having trouble understanding this, can someone explain?

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Crappy battery cables and likely cable ends.

JohnLane said:

Crappy battery cables and likely cable ends.

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That got yanked apart when the crash happened.

Still doesn't quite explain why it cranked when he bypassed the solenoid with a screwdriver, but whatever, it's working now.