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Old 04-19-2018, 02:55 PM   #1
missthe1122
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Default Which engine to use for turbo upgrade

I'm planning to upgrade my 1992 240 to 240+t for as little cost as possible using as many parts as I already have and following instructions I found on this site. I have a complete 1982 120,000mile B21FT engine with turbo/oil cooler/downpipe. I planned to use the B21FT engine's turbo and exh. manifold plus a 740 intercooler on my B230F engine. However, I'm wondering if it would be easier to use the B21FT and simply replace the intake manifold for LH2.4 operation. What's the best way to go?
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Old 04-19-2018, 03:44 PM   #2
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The 7.5:1 b21ft loves boost and have stronger rods than any b230. No real issues running lh2.4 on it either.
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Old 04-19-2018, 08:53 PM   #3
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Thank you eabras. I was told that the 1992 b230f had stronger rods than the earlier versions, so it could handle turbocharging, but using the B21ft makes a lot of sense. I don't have to worry about oil send and return, etc.
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:32 PM   #4
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Has higher compression too though, the b230f
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:34 PM   #5
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If you are going to be careless with the stock bottom end. Get a b21ft, if you are going to use proper supporting mods, use a b230f
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Old 04-20-2018, 02:01 AM   #6
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Sounds like a mild setup. Stick with the B230F. You can run ~14psi on a '92 B230F bottom end. It will be nicer to drive than a B21F due to the much higher compression on the B230F, plus the slightly larger displacement.

We road raced a turbo'd B230F in 24hr lemons and never broke a bottom end, didn't really have any mechanical problems related to adding boost to a B230F. We used the non-turbo head, too, with the solid exhaust valves. Running 8-10hr days on track in the summer, 12-14psi on a 60trim T3, regularly seeing 6200rpm and running high RPM all day.
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Old 04-20-2018, 05:21 AM   #7
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My b21et/ft felt stronger than a b230f, even out of boost. It loves timing and boost tho.
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:01 AM   #8
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For the B21FT, you'll need to drill the block to mount the CPS bracket, and transfer over your LH2.4 60-2 flywheel/flexplate. If you're lucky, your B21FT block will have the enlarged areas for the CPS mount (just not drilled). If not, you'll need to drill the narrower edge of the bellhousing and make a custom CPS bracket. You can also keep the K-Jet head and just plug the continuous injector holes (STS machining). You'll need to swap over the B230 EFI intake manifold.

For the B230, you'll need to drill the block for the turbo oil return, or tap into the pan, and get an aftermarket oil feed/drain hose setup (parts similar to this Kinugawa but for your turbo setup).

There's another tread somewhere with comments on using a no-weld pan adapter - not sure if there was anything conclusive.
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:08 AM   #9
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For the B21FT, you'll need to drill the block to mount the CPS bracket, and transfer over your LH2.4 60-2 flywheel/flexplate. If you're lucky, your B21FT block will have the enlarged areas for the CPS mount (just not drilled). If not, you'll need to drill the narrower edge of the bellhousing and make a custom CPS bracket. You can also keep the K-Jet head and just plug the continuous injector holes (STS machining). You'll need to swap over the B230 EFI intake manifold.

For the B230, you'll need to drill the block for the turbo oil return, or tap into the pan, and get an aftermarket oil feed/drain hose setup (parts similar to this Kinugawa but for your turbo setup).

There's another tread somewhere with comments on using a no-weld pan adapter - not sure if there was anything conclusive.
I have used the no weld bung adapter for over 5000 miles with no leaks. Would I recommend it? Sure. Welding a bung on oil pan is preferable though.
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Old 04-21-2018, 02:34 PM   #10
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The cheapest option would be to buy a post 90s car (preferably 94) 940 turbo and use everything off of that. Bought my perfectly running one for 340$ and it has nearly everything.
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Old 04-22-2018, 07:55 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
For the B21FT, you'll need to drill the block to mount the CPS bracket, and transfer over your LH2.4 60-2 flywheel/flexplate. If you're lucky, your B21FT block will have the enlarged areas for the CPS mount (just not drilled). If not, you'll need to drill the narrower edge of the bellhousing and make a custom CPS bracket. You can also keep the K-Jet head and just plug the continuous injector holes (STS machining). You'll need to swap over the B230 EFI intake manifold.

For the B230, you'll need to drill the block for the turbo oil return, or tap into the pan, and get an aftermarket oil feed/drain hose setup (parts similar to this Kinugawa but for your turbo setup).

There's another tread somewhere with comments on using a no-weld pan adapter - not sure if there was anything conclusive.
Wouldn't the B230F bellhousing accommodate the CPS? I didn't know drilling the block was required. The B21FT is a 1982 which came with a M46 tranny which I don't plan to use. I thought I could just replace the manual flywheel wirth the auto flexplate and the CPS mounted in the bellhousing. Is there a problem with the AW70 bell housing mating with the B21FT block? I read the excellent article on the B230F + T and it sounded like I had enough stuff to do it as long I stick to very low boost. But, the B21FT engine is also in excellent shape and it sound like there is more potential for a higher boost there.
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:00 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
The cheapest option would be to buy a post 90s car (preferably 94) 940 turbo and use everything off of that. Bought my perfectly running one for 340$ and it has nearly everything.
I just bought a good running 1990 740T wagon for $700. I kinda wanted to use the B21FT engine because I got if for a 242T I had planned to restore, but the wiring just disintegrated in my hands. It was a mess electrically so I got rid of the car. Now I have a B21FT and tranny that I would not want to waste. This is my dilemma.
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:05 AM   #13
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I have used the no weld bung adapter for over 5000 miles with no leaks. Would I recommend it? Sure. Welding a bung on oil pan is preferable though.
I have an extra oil pan which I can have a bung adapter welded into. I was thinking of Teeing -off the oil pressure sensor port to feed the turbo. The higher compression of the B230F is an attractive consideration since I'm going to try this with very low boost at first.
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:09 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
The cheapest option would be to buy a post 90s car (preferably 94) 940 turbo and use everything off of that. Bought my perfectly running one for 340$ and it has nearly everything.
I just bought a 740T wagon $700, but it is in good shape body and interior wise, so I wouldn't use it as a parts car. I believe I have all the parts I need to try the intercooled turbo setup, the biggest expense I anticipate would be the intercooler piping, if I can't adapt what I already scavanged from another 740T car.
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:14 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
Sounds like a mild setup. Stick with the B230F. You can run ~14psi on a '92 B230F bottom end. It will be nicer to drive than a B21F due to the much higher compression on the B230F, plus the slightly larger displacement.

We road raced a turbo'd B230F in 24hr lemons and never broke a bottom end, didn't really have any mechanical problems related to adding boost to a B230F. We used the non-turbo head, too, with the solid exhaust valves. Running 8-10hr days on track in the summer, 12-14psi on a 60trim T3, regularly seeing 6200rpm and running high RPM all day.
I was thinking the same way. I wasn't even planning on 14PSI. I wasn't planning on changing the computer or the injectors. I tried a 563 turbo computer in my 240. It started up, but it seemed to run very rich and would not Idle. This ECU works fine in my 740T, so I didn't want to try upgrading the ECU of injectors.
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Old 04-22-2018, 09:16 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
For the B21FT, you'll need to drill the block to mount the CPS bracket, and transfer over your LH2.4 60-2 flywheel/flexplate. If you're lucky, your B21FT block will have the enlarged areas for the CPS mount (just not drilled). If not, you'll need to drill the narrower edge of the bellhousing and make a custom CPS bracket. You can also keep the K-Jet head and just plug the continuous injector holes (STS machining). You'll need to swap over the B230 EFI intake manifold.

For the B230, you'll need to drill the block for the turbo oil return, or tap into the pan, and get an aftermarket oil feed/drain hose setup (parts similar to this Kinugawa but for your turbo setup).

There's another tread somewhere with comments on using a no-weld pan adapter - not sure if there was anything conclusive.
BTW, Thanks for the link to the oil feed setup. I never found this searching on eBay.
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:37 AM   #17
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We road raced a turbo'd B230F in 24hr lemons and never broke a bottom end, didn't really have any mechanical problems related to adding boost to a B230F. We used the non-turbo head, too, with the solid exhaust valves. Running 8-10hr days on track in the summer, 12-14psi on a 60trim T3, regularly seeing 6200rpm and running high RPM all day.


Was this a b230f with the 9mm or 13mm rods?
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Old 04-22-2018, 12:10 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by missthe1122 View Post
I was thinking the same way. I wasn't even planning on 14PSI. I wasn't planning on changing the computer or the injectors. I tried a 563 turbo computer in my 240. It started up, but it seemed to run very rich and would not Idle. This ECU works fine in my 740T, so I didn't want to try upgrading the ECU of injectors.
Changing computers and injectors is so easy that there’s literally no reason not to. You’re playing with Fire if you’re going to turbo an NA high comp engine and run it with stock computers and stock injectors.
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:17 PM   #19
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Changing computers and injectors is so easy that there’s literally no reason not to. You’re playing with Fire if you’re going to turbo an NA high comp engine and run it with stock computers and stock injectors.
I've been wondering about this. I'm trying to do this project with parts I have on hand and I don't have spare turbo ECU, injectors or ballast resistors. I do have a set of spare V40 injectors, but I don't know if they can work for this application. The instructions on this section of the forum says that I could use the stock injection/ECU system. That's why I thought I'd start out that way. I'm leaning toward using the B21FT engine I have, because it's just sitting around and I don't know what else to do with it.
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:30 AM   #20
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Was this a b230f with the 9mm or 13mm rods?
13mm of course. '90+ blocks, always. Junkyard B230F with 160-190k always looked nice, whereas a B230FT with the same mileage had more wear on the bores. If you can find a nice '93+, even better.
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:58 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by missthe1122 View Post
I've been wondering about this. I'm trying to do this project with parts I have on hand and I don't have spare turbo ECU, injectors or ballast resistors. I do have a set of spare V40 injectors, but I don't know if they can work for this application. The instructions on this section of the forum says that I could use the stock injection/ECU system. That's why I thought I'd start out that way. I'm leaning toward using the B21FT engine I have, because it's just sitting around and I don't know what else to do with it.
Would you rather pony up the $100 or so dollars to do it the right way or launch a rod if you lean out and ping? I speak from experience, do it the right way. Don’t be me.

Also Idk what engine a v40 had but turbo 5 cylinder injectors (from an 850 turbo or something) are a direct drop in and close to stock turbo injector flow rates. You do not need the resistors if you run them. Only time you need to wire in the resistor pack is if you use the low impedance injectors from a turbo 7/9 car, but really what’s the point of that? Post in wanted for some turbo 5 injectors. I wouldn’t pay a penny over $30 shipped for them. If I had an extra set laying around I’d sell you them for $20 shipped but the only set I have is being used on a friends car.

Turbo ecu/ezk from an lh2.4 car is something you need too. I think the last digits of my turbo ezk are 148, might be wrong. Then my ecu ends in 954. Those should both work.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:00 AM   #22
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Truthfully I think my advice would be to do what's easier to YOU. IF you're into bolting parts on, then run the B230F (hell you might even have a squirter block) until it blows up. Then put the B21 in there until your trans blows up, THEN put in the CD00X out of the 350Z until your B21 blows up and THEN put an LS in it.

Then crush your car.
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:32 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by missthe1122 View Post
Wouldn't the B230F bellhousing accommodate the CPS? I didn't know drilling the block was required. The B21FT is a 1982 which came with a M46 tranny which I don't plan to use. I thought I could just replace the manual flywheel wirth the auto flexplate and the CPS mounted in the bellhousing. Is there a problem with the AW70 bell housing mating with the B21FT block? I read the excellent article on the B230F + T and it sounded like I had enough stuff to do it as long I stick to very low boost. But, the B21FT engine is also in excellent shape and it sound like there is more potential for a higher boost there.
See: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=327942
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