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Old 10-20-2015, 08:21 PM   #26
Jon P.
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I was thinking it was the belt out of alignment due to a worn bushing from that sound. If the sound doesn't clear up, check to see how square your belts are to one another. Busted bushings can have a heavy pull on any accessory. Don't go with the after market teal ones, I think URO makes them. Total garbage. Yoshifab makes the best out there, but you'll pay the most for them. My A/C has a leak in it and never makes that sound, something to consider.

https://www.yoshifab.com/store/volvo...-bushings.html
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Old 10-21-2015, 09:52 AM   #27
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No idea on the AC.

I like the iPd panhard because it's a thicker diameter and way beefier than stock. Plus it comes a pretty powdercoat blue. Only downside is you have to remove the bar to adjust it, which can be kind of a pain sometimes. Measure, adjust, measure again, adjust again, etc. until you get it right. And remember to support the axle while you do the work otherwise it'll be out of alignment when you drop the car back down.
That's why I am going to make one. All the research I did shows that the stock bar is plenty strong even though it is not as strong as the iPd bar. I and going to make it adjustable by a center link so that the bar does not have to be removed in order to make adjustments.

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Torque rods, look for 82+ since those are also thicker diameter versus the earlier ones. That I don't have any particular experience with, I think really it just helps with wheel position F-R in the fender well if you go really low but as far as I understand it, a lot of guys run without adjustable bars. Six years in my wagon and I never had 'em, though I did get a set of torque rods with polyurethane bushings.
Yeah, the reason I want to run them is just to get more adjustability out of the rear axle. I like a centered wheel in the arch. Good to know about the 82+ ones being thicker!

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Oh, that's another thing: Go poly. It'll squeak like hell if you don't lube them up regularly but going from blown out 1980's rubber bushings to nice modern polyurethane bushings is an insane upgrade in removing so much slop from the suspension.
You think it is better to go poly is better than new rubbers? I have both available to me at the shop, but the cost difference between the two is substantial. Is the gain of going to a poly bushings in the wagon worth the cost difference? I don't plan on driving the car hard. I am considering getting pretty low with it though. I want to do it right and maintain the best drivability possible.

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Other suggestions:

1. Find a 23mm turbo car front sway bar, get the iPd turbo sway bar brackets and bushings (poly!) and run that. It'll help keep the nose a lot more flat during cornering and feel like the car actually "points" where you turn it, rather than wallowing.

2. Strut brace. Another relatively inexpensive and super helpful upgrade. You'll notice most people here are running one, that's for a damn good reason. Helps stiffen up the chassis and has a notable effect on cornering.
Good info, the car does have quite a bit of body roll haha


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On my old wagon I had iPd sport springs that were cut down a little bit more, I had DeCarbon front struts and Bilstein rears, 23mm front sway, Jerd's adjustable upper strut brace, poly sway bar bushings, then in the rear I had good condition used rear trailing arm bushings, poly torque rods and panhard bar. On the iPd springs and DeCarbon/Bilstein setup the car rode pretty well on the highway and driving around, but still handled. I managed to keep up with a pack of 850Rs, S60Rs and V70Rs during a spirited drive out at the coast, mind you this was on n/a power with a ****ty automatic transmission too.
Thanks, nice to see someone else's setup. I have been searching for a thread where people have put photos of the cars with the suspension setup. If it was a VW, I would know what suspension is capable of what. But I got nothing with the Volvo's haha

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I was thinking it was the belt out of alignment due to a worn bushing from that sound. If the sound doesn't clear up, check to see how square your belts are to one another. Busted bushings can have a heavy pull on any accessory. Don't go with the after market teal ones, I think URO makes them. Total garbage. Yoshifab makes the best out there, but you'll pay the most for them. My A/C has a leak in it and never makes that sound, something to consider.

https://www.yoshifab.com/store/volvo...-bushings.html
Good to know, I will check that. When I shut off the a/c, the sound goes away. (I didn't know how to turn off the a/c till yesterday )
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:09 PM   #28
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As someone who has gone with poly, next time I'm building/welding my own links with OEM rubber on the chassis side and solid endlinks on the axle side.
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:15 PM   #29
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I liked Poly but I also treat my drive to work like a lap on the racetrack so there's that.

If you're gonna drive like a normal person then some high quality new rubber should be fine.

As far as going low is concerned, there aren't really any bushings that I can think of that are extended at weird angles or anything when you go down so probably no worries there.

I was less focused just on getting low and more on getting a decent setup for autocross on the cheap.
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:38 PM   #30
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I liked Poly but I also treat my drive to work like a lap on the racetrack so there's that.

If you're gonna drive like a normal person then some high quality new rubber should be fine.

As far as going low is concerned, there aren't really any bushings that I can think of that are extended at weird angles or anything when you go down so probably no worries there.

I was less focused just on getting low and more on getting a decent setup for autocross on the cheap.
Cool. Yeah this car is very slow. I actually drive it like a normal person which is not the norm for me. I am building other cars to be fast. Really just gonna make this one low and slow.
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:55 PM   #31
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Yeah they are slow. I didn't realize just how slow until I got my Golf. I'll probably never try to take an n/a Volvo racing again. Xeroni can attest that I drive my 87 M47 car really calmly since it feels like I'm taxing it so hard to wind it out and there's no speed there at all. But when I had my wagon I was young, it was my first car so I had no idea just how slow it really was.

If it's just a cruiser and you're going air then yeah, I'd put some quality rubber in it and enjoy the ride. These cars are very nice riding stock, even if they don't handle for a damn and lean everywhere. But a few little upgrades sorts out the body lean and you have a comfortable driver.
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Old 10-22-2015, 02:42 PM   #32
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I have really had fun driving this thing the last week! It really is a nice car to drive. Bu the 4x4 status is killing me

Ordered tune up stuff today. still got to get some Penzoil Syncromesh for the trans. And thinking I need to do a valve adjustment.... they are quite noisy!



Also, what is the talk I hear about red block and white block engines. I was curious so I looked and I have a red block with a K on it. Not sure where the other identifying marks are on it.





Finally, just a shot from the other morning. Stopped by the beach on the way to work to watch the sunrise. Actually left the house early for once!

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Old 10-22-2015, 09:40 PM   #33
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Redblock= 4 cyl b21, b23, b230 6cyl b30

Whiteblock= 6 cyl from 960's, 5 cyl from 850's, 4 cyl from S40's (engine codes way too difficult for me to remember them all)

The only factory RWD car with a whiteblock is the 960/S&V90
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Old 10-24-2015, 01:08 PM   #34
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Redblock= 4 cyl b21, b23, b230 6cyl b30

Whiteblock= 6 cyl from 960's, 5 cyl from 850's, 4 cyl from S40's (engine codes way too difficult for me to remember them all)

The only factory RWD car with a whiteblock is the 960/S&V90
Thanks... that clears that up!!


So I did the basic tuneup today. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and air filter. She runs nice... the misfire is gone. I did find that someone had cross threaded the second spark plug. That was fun to fix!!!

I do have a question regarding revers and first. If I am in reverse of taking off with little throttle in first, it seams like I get crazy wheel hop in the rear. Any ideas what could cause this? Worn clutch?
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:58 AM   #35
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So I ordered a kit for the radio from Crutchfield with the adapter. After getting the kit open and comparing to the stock readio (which I didn't want to hack up) I noticed a few small differenced.

I tried to install the Crutchfield piece, but quickly realized it was going to require some trimming. Grabbed the closest thing handy (my tin snips) and went to cutting. just to give you an idea of the trimming that was needed-





While unhooking the stock radio, I noticed the dimmer wire coming from the left, but then there was a brown wire that drops down into the dash. Anyone know what this wire is for?





All in all, the piece looks ok. It will work for what I need it to do, and save me from having to butcher any of the stock interior pieces, especially the really clean radio.



I was also curious what people do for speakers? I noticed the only two in the whole car are two 4" front door speakers (And what looks like a spot for a 4x6 in the dash). I would really not like to put holes in the rear door cards if it can be avoided. What have other people come up with for their wagons?



I am pretty happy for now... still want to get an air setup made asap.

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Old 10-29-2015, 09:15 AM   #36
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Pulled my car in the shop the yesterday to replace the rear shocks and figure out the source of the awful rattling in the rear.



After pulling the old shocks, I found out that the upper shock mount on the drivers side was not tight causing a lot of shaking and clunking in the rear. After finding a deep enough socket to tighten it, I got the new shocks installed. While I had it up, I went ahead and trimmed the bump stops in the rear 1 section.





The car really rides nice. There is very little bounciness to the ride. And it feels a lot stiffer in corners. All around I am pretty pleased with it. Not as low as I like to take cars, but I have a lot of supporting modifications to make before I take the car any lower than it is.

And for those interested, I went 2.5 coils out of the front and cut the bump stops in half. And I went 1.75 coils in the rear and trimmed a third of the rear bump stop.
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Old 11-15-2015, 01:21 PM   #37
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So I have really been enjoying cruising around in this wagon. It is the perfect family car. But the lack of audio has been killing me. The original radio looks perfect, but there is something wrong internally that makes it not work.

So I spent some time this morning installing my Pioneer Deck into the car. I will tell you that the Crutchfield wiring adapter makes this job a cake walk. And there installation piece doesn't look bad either once everything is installed.







So I have been gathering audio bits to put myself a nice clear sounding system together. Here is what I have acquired so far.

-Focal Access 4" for the front doors (Have to space them due to how deep they are)
-Focal Access 6.5" for the rear doors (Have to figure out where to mount these in the door)
-Focal Polyglass 33v1 13" Sub for the trunk (will be fit on the spare well eventually)
-JL Audi XD600/1 Mono Amp



Then I gave the car a good detail and bath and found a little better idea of where the water is running down into the car.





And I found some wheels here in Florida that I snagged for $50. The center bore is wrong but the lug pattern is right. The are 15x6.5's, so I will just get some hub centric adapters made and run them till I find a 16" wheel that I like more!

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Old 11-15-2015, 01:55 PM   #38
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You can get later door cards for all four doors; the later fronts accept 5.25" speakers with some work. You can easily fit 6" ones in the bottom of the back doors and in the bottom of the fronts if you remove the map pockets. There is also a bit of room behind the rear doors at shoulder level.

You could also install some forward-firing ones blended into the headliner by the hatch like newer wagons and SUVs.
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:12 PM   #39
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You can get later door cards for all four doors; the later fronts accept 5.25" speakers with some work. You can easily fit 6" ones in the bottom of the back doors and in the bottom of the fronts if you remove the map pockets. There is also a bit of room behind the rear doors at shoulder level.

You could also install some forward-firing ones blended into the headliner by the hatch like newer wagons and SUVs.
I wouldn't mind finding some other door cards to cut up, only because these cards are very clean. I really don't want to cut holes in them.

And I have though about rear speakers, just really not sure where to put them.
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:54 PM   #40
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Sometimes I wonder if removing all that grime will help the car rust quicker/easier!

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Wet driver's floor usually means leaky windshield seal IME. Your windshield is not original to the car as it's got a later style windshield trim/seal.

Also, if you replace the windshield and don't see an improvement, check the inlet on the drivers side where the cruise control goes into the drivers side fire wall. I have found that if the rubber hose has disintegrated if will allow water in!
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:25 PM   #41
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Try to find the speaker grilles and spacers from a 90+ 240. Then you can mount 5 1/4 in front and they will look stock. Also find the grilles from the rear door cards so you can add larger speakers there too.


The rears will look like this
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:27 PM   #42
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That door panel is actually from a wagon with the speaker and separate tweeter.
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:54 PM   #43
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That door panel is actually from a wagon with the speaker and separate tweeter.
Are those tweeters a 1993 only item, were they an option or standard?
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:07 PM   #44
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Sometimes I wonder if removing all that grime will help the car rust quicker/easier!

Also, if you replace the windshield and don't see an improvement, check the inlet on the drivers side where the cruise control goes into the drivers side fire wall. I have found that if the rubber hose has disintegrated if will allow water in!
Perfect, we have a guy that does all our windshields at the shop, I will have him pull and reseal this window and see if that works!

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Try to find the speaker grilles and spacers from a 90+ 240. Then you can mount 5 1/4 in front and they will look stock. Also find the grilles from the rear door cards so you can add larger speakers there too.
Perfect, I will start hunting, I would definitely rather run 5.25" as they will give the system a more full sound. The 4" are a little high for me.

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That door panel is actually from a wagon with the speaker and separate tweeter.
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Are those tweeters a 1993 only item, were they an option or standard?
Thanks for the info guys! Look forward to getting some good audio in this thing. This is the first audiophile system I have put together, and this is entry level stuff.
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:23 AM   #45
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Are those tweeters a 1993 only item, were they an option or standard?
Still curious about this! I picked a 1993 244 that didn't have the tweeters in the back door!?
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Old 11-30-2015, 12:46 PM   #46
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Well, haven't got into the audio system any more yet. Rocking out to my Christmas jams with my stock 4's in the doors haha.

We did take the wagon out this weekend to pick up the Christmas tree... gotta love Florida!

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Old 11-30-2015, 01:18 PM   #47
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Still curious about this! I picked a 1993 244 that didn't have the tweeters in the back door!?
Not sure if it was stock or option item. I have seen them in other wagons. Maybe an upgrade?
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:23 AM   #48
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**First and foremost, I am not affiliated with Justice Brothers, not even a dealer for them yet. We will see how their products do first.**

So we went out to SEMA this year and I met some of the guys from Justice Brothers, got to watch a few of their demos, and then discuss some product. A few of the things really intrigued me as far as the usefulness for my Volvo goes. So after contacting the company, a rep got hold of me at the shop and came by and dropped some stuff for me to try. So I figured I would post what I find about it. And if it makes a big difference, I will make a thread so others know.

I have been logging fuel mileage since I got the vehicle. And I document when I make changes to the car, or perform a service. This helps me see what makes changes to fuel consumption. I will post that stuff later when I get home. For now I will give you the first product description and my thoughts on it.

It is a three part system that is supposed to treat the injectors through the gas, treat deposits and build up in the engine through the oil, and treat the intake system and valve build up through an induction service. I have always heard induction services don't work that great, but it was free, so I am trying it haha

First thing you do is pour the 100 in the gas, then the 200 in the oil, and then I.V. Drip the 300 into a vacuum line. He said the drip would take about 45 minutes, it ran well over an hour for me. Maybe I should have sped the drip up, who knows. I did notice if the flow of the 300 was too heavy, the engine would bog down.

Now my reasons for doing this are simple. 1. I think my fuel mileage is low. 2. The engine just didn't seem to run smoothly. Could feel a slight miss and vibration at idle. 3. Throttle response was meh... now it is an n/a B230f, so it can't get too awesome.

So this is the kit I used-



This is the Drip System he loaned me. You set the drip with a little dial wherever you want it.






So after this was finished, I took it on a quick test drive. The first thing I noticed was the better throttle response. Not necessarily faster, but just smoother. The power also felt like it was delivered a little more smoothly all the way through the powerband. It is one of those things that's hard to put into words, but if you are in tune with how your car's drive, then you will notice the change.

The car does idle a lot smoother now. It still have a little hiccup here and there, think I may have a small vac leak somewhere I need to track down. But sitting at lights the car idles quiet and smooth. It's kind of nice

I haven't completely gotten the tank of gas through it since doing it, so I will post up more about the change in fuel mileage and see how it does. If you have any questions, feel free to ask, I will do my best to answer.
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:37 PM   #49
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Last week got the flooding problem on my 245. There´s a plastic pipe down the red circle that comes into the cockpit with a rubber seal. when mud and dirt come under the hood, they make a pile in the back of the suspension tower and water floods into the car through that tube.
You just have to clean it and add some silicone seal to the tube.
If you want, i can take some pics of my car showing that to explain in better, sorry for my poor english.


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Old 12-03-2015, 06:45 PM   #50
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just out of curiosity. what are you getting for milage?
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