home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > General > showroom > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-08-2010, 08:39 AM   #26
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

No gave him the pipe last night. Figure ill have to wait 2 days till he gets it back to me. he sid hes going to build up the area to make it strong but I would hate to have it fail again. im thinking about using -8 an to 14mm and 12mm adapters and just plum it with that.
__________________
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=196369
Do it. I know you want to.

Last edited by meeki007; 04-08-2010 at 08:54 AM..
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2010, 08:41 AM   #27
fisky52688
broken down 240
 
fisky52688's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Cape Cod & Rhode Island
Default

ummm is that transmission strong?
__________________
1987 244. Will be B23 powered one day.
fisky52688 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2010, 08:44 AM   #28
DNAsEqUeNcE
†John3:16
 
DNAsEqUeNcE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: HTX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by meeki007 View Post
No gave him the pipe last night. Figure ill have to wait 2 days till he gets it back to me. he sid hes going to build up the area to make it strong but I would hate to have it fail again. im thinking about using -8 an to 14mm and 12mm adapters and just plum it with that.
You can do that. I had a dude Mig my oil feed line and I never had problems with it again. Stainless or rubber lines work too, but I like metal simply because it won't deteriorate, and if it does fail it won't be as bad as rubber .

I've had it happen believe me!
__________________
DNAsEqUeNcE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2010, 08:54 AM   #29
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

Ok ill wait till hes done with it. and your right. if the metal goes like mine did you still have oil pressure. my light only came on after all the oil had ran out of the crack. and the pump had nothing to suck. So if metel does fail ya dont loose turbo or block. to dry run.
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2010, 08:55 AM   #30
DNAsEqUeNcE
†John3:16
 
DNAsEqUeNcE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: HTX
Default

Heyo, consider an oil cooler setup if you don't have one, I may have missed it though.
DNAsEqUeNcE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2010, 09:03 AM   #31
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default



problem with this setup is that my engine temps get low! like 160 with it up next to the fan like that. only when its 30 ish and im doing 55 to 65 mph. I plan on moving to Fairbanks Alaska in 2 years or so. might have to delete it when i get up there. Something who knows.
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2010, 09:15 AM   #32
DNAsEqUeNcE
†John3:16
 
DNAsEqUeNcE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: HTX
Default

Stick an E-fan with adj. thermostat on it and be done! You might not even need a fan in alaska, lol, that is true.
DNAsEqUeNcE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2010, 11:13 AM   #33
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fisky52688 View Post
ummm is that transmission strong?
nope but holding up so far. Im driving it til it breaks ! then going to put a s10 tranny in it
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2010, 07:03 PM   #34
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default Well looks like i have to do some more work.

So i had just got the computer learned and was testing out the 15psi of boost and had oil light come on at idle. So I'm pretty freaked out about it. Get the plug off the side of the oil pan and find that the oil pump transfer tube rubber ring had blown out.



think its because i had no lip on the pipe to keep them in. Figure im going to thread the holes and use JIC fittings because this is a known problem even with the right tube.

Well i had 2 choices. 1) yank the motor to get the pan off 2) yank the x-member out underneath.

The front bushings are shot so im going the x-member route. this jsut gave me an excuse to do it the X-member way.







Sporting the motor with the picker.



The getting the spindle off was a pain but DONE!





Ill keep ya all posted with the project.

I'm sure that when i have it all out and all i can see looking up is the body and frame ill get some grinding and rust removal/proofing done as well :P
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2010, 04:22 PM   #35
Toni_
Board Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Default

Here is my spring 2009 project, pretty much same things and modifications. Got B230FB engine and M47 gearbox from 940 -92, equipped it with Garrett GT28RS Turbo & Intecooler and put all them to 142 -74. I moved distributor to the block







hit a few times firewall with sledge hammer. Engine is same place where B20 egine were, so gearbox and drive shaft didn´t require moifications.



240 radiator & Large size intercooler



Air intake and power brake



940 cooling fan, ECU controlled





Radiator fitting





READY!





Whole project http://volvo.tonit.org
__________________
245 B230FT AW71, 403 Hv/573 Nm, 142 B230FB-t M47, 945 D24TIC ZFHP22

http://volvo.tonit.org/

Last edited by Toni_; 01-05-2011 at 03:07 AM..
Toni_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2010, 04:58 AM   #36
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

Dude I love it. I did find your site about 1/2 way through my project. It did help but yours is mounted a bit different. I used google translate to help a bit with your build. http://translate.google.com/translat...142_b230ft.htm then one night i had my wifes finish friend come over and help me with a few of the lines i had questions about.

Nice to know someone else is doing it as well. And knows how much work is involved.

BTW yours is pretty sweet !
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2010, 01:08 PM   #37
Toni_
Board Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Default

Yes, much much work have to do, to get this kind of things done. But damn it´s nice to drive with that engine ;).
Toni_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2010, 01:19 PM   #38
DNAsEqUeNcE
†John3:16
 
DNAsEqUeNcE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: HTX
Default

Disco Potato! And a video of driving and boosting is required, Toni!
DNAsEqUeNcE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2010, 05:48 AM   #39
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

alright ill get my wife to vid a short clip of me burning out. have to kill the 165/65/15 that are on it. I put 185/65/15 on the front last month and im putin' the same on the rear on Friday. Guess i need to find an unoccupied parking lot. Hope i can get a no rain day here in Oregon :(

Got the bushings done. man that was a job. I need to do the ball joints up and bottom soon. Also i cant boost more than 14 right now or i get spark-blow out. tested the coil, its old and on its last leg along with the power stage ( ignition system that powers the coil ) not having the best readings either. I think they have 200+k miles on them from the car i pulled the motor out of before the rebuild.

Got allot more work to do just to get it running perfect. then onto the body.

Took many hours to grind all that rust out from under the x-member when it came out. along with some stuff i found hiding behind the fender wheel well so that took many moons. all said im pretty happy now that i get to drive it around.

as for power even with a weak coil not setting off the mix right if you are roiling about 4 mph in first and roll into it it will break loose even without revving it up before dumping the clutch.

Have to baby it in 3rd if its wet out too. Scary having the rear-end come out entering the highway on-ramp. need the 185's to put some of this power to the ground.

if your looking for a hoot this is the way to go for sure. loose all that weight and get a 140 series!
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2010, 02:54 AM   #40
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

Well it never stops raining in Oregon so here is a late night vid thrown together. I'll try to do better on a nice sunny dry day. Do some burnouts for ya all but this should hold ya off till then.

on video 2 no im not slipping the clutch that's tires slipping on the pavement all the way to 55 mph. Man i want a dry day to really show this thing off. Its almost a pain in the rain. my ford contour would beat it on a rainy day. to much power ERRRRRR!





meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2010, 03:19 AM   #41
Toni_
Board Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Default

VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLbq5Tw6fes

Toni_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2010, 05:15 AM   #42
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

love the vid !!!! got more? sounds like ya went lean at the end of the 1/4 mile? any whoo ... all of ya keep the 140 stuff coming LOVE IT!
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2010, 10:04 AM   #43
klr142
Turbo, what?
 
klr142's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: OR
Default

Man, I couldn't handle the 165s in the dry with my 80whp 142... I have no idea how you drive around on them regularly! The car is SOOO hampered by them. I'd hate having to go that slow around turns.
klr142 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2010, 04:30 AM   #44
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

Ok so i did not put the u-joint failure in here as its really not a build thread thing you can find it here if you want to see the damage.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=204480

But it did bring about this build solution.





Keep the power from punching a hole in my butt.

Also picture of the X member out. and the arms drying with some under coating/sound proofing paint. when i did the whole front end in poly.





Also a check on the real close tolerance BMW squerters when the pan was off after 3000 miles. The new flanged oil line is holding now too! Things are looking good in there.Hope to never see it again.

meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2010, 04:45 PM   #45
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

Here is a Dale's pulley next to a stock b230 pulley.





You can see how the stock b230 pulley rubbed a knife edge on the outer ring while rubbing on the IPD sway bar. The IPD bar is just big enough to catch it.





Here is the new pulley in. I don't think it will be rubbing any more. I had to get this installed for the NW poker run. Hwy 30 is very curvy.



Installing MSD's Street fire box. Its mounted on rubber test tube stoppers to take the shock out of the unit and allow air under it.



Had to grind the screw heads off that were sticking out the bottom of the wheel well. Took a paint striping brush to them as well so i could solder the ends so they don't back out of the thin metal.



A bit of flux and pipe solder and they aint coming back out now!



Don't forget to tar and feather what protective coating you removed. Keep the rust away people!



To make the MSD work you need to use the trigger wire off the Volvo power stage.




Use the thick red/white wire to the trigger wire on your ignish box. Its the one soldered and shrink tubed in this photo(s).





Taped and threaded the fire wall for the msd coil. Fig id put it in the volvo stock location.



More to come. I only have 9 days to get it done for the poker run. Poker run link http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=204212
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2010, 05:21 AM   #46
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

Ok so tested the MSD box today. OMG all my idle problems caused by rich idle mix and bad Volvo coil are gone. So happy! Tomarrow have to bleed breaks and take her out for the fun. NOTE on the box. If you battery drops below 10v during start the box wont work so make sure ya keep a good charge on the batt or be stranded.
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2010, 08:02 AM   #47
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

So i just got done tracing a knock noise down to my timing belt cover. Seems that the ubber small belt i had to put on to fit the under drive pulley and the alternator bounces on the timing marks that stick out on the bottom of the belt cover.

Scared the crap out of me at first. only happens at real low idle of 750 rpm..... and it was at only one stroke. it did not have the frequency of a rattle you hear when all cylinders fire but rather the knock sound you here when 1 rod is bad but way duller... ya know whit out that metal sound.

Glad i found it and it was not the end of a motor. Man them noises freak ya out at first. well i don't need to see the retarded side of the timing mark any way so i just ground it down -2 degrees on the plastic and the noise is gone until i kill the ignish then you only hear it slap once. Good enough.

well back to the brakes.
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2010, 01:09 PM   #48
doucheNozzle
Newbie
 
doucheNozzle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: The Pitt, 15218
Default

This thing is awesome!
__________________

'95 850 T-5R - FailSedan
'04 V70 T5A - FailFamily
doucheNozzle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2010, 10:08 PM   #49
orie
Doctor Who
 
orie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Folsom, CA
Default

Love the build.. keep 'er coming!
__________________


Hefty, rear-wheel-drive, and comfortable, the 700- and 900-series wagons were essentially an evolution of the 265 philosophy. Fun, boxy, fast, boxy, and fun. More right angles than a box full of right angles.

BrickSpeed forums!
orie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2010, 03:23 AM   #50
meeki007
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default

Just throwing this out there. If you have a 140 and a b230 or b230ft and want to put it in a 140 but don't feel up to it Im happy to offer my services if the price is right. Just PM me with what your want and Ill work up a quote.

I would love the job but i recommend you do it yourself. Most shops wont touch a custom job if it has any problems because they cant fallow a book. I'm sure if you do find a shop to do the work they will charge out the ass.

What I suggest is you just rent my garage. Ill let you use all my tools and fabing stuff and i can be there for advice while you build it. $350 a month. you get a key to the back shop door that has access to the garage, and a Volvo to look at for reference and you can pick my brain over beer every night. If you were diligent im sure you could finish it in a month. If this is the case ill take the b20 or what ever is left off the 140 as payment if it runs before it came out. Or 1/2 of payment if it did not run before it came out. I have 2 neighbors that weld so you only have to walk 2/3 houses down to have welding work done.

Tools, I have air tools ----> ( grinders / hammers / chisels / ratchets / grease gun / some others too). This makes the job go quick. Every tool i needed to do the job is in the shop minus welding.

If you have no shop and just want to do a break job or change your oil, basically any job that only takes the garage up for a night, then its a 6 pack of beer. Let me know i live in SE Portland around 122nd and division.
let me know.
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:51 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.