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Spring/strut/shock install! Any tips?

I just took apart the strut tube on my car last week when I was installing new shocks. Not a hard job, but like everyone is saying, take it slow, take pictures, and do one side at a time. Its easy to get things confused on where everything goes in the reassembly process. Happened to me, happens to everyone. YouTube is also a very good source of information, as you might already know.
 
Thanks for all the advice so far! I ended up picking up a new set of "bump stops" as well. My old ones were falling apart! Does anyone think I should trim the new "bump stops" considering I am lowering the car?

If you are using stock length struts, then do not cut the bump stops as they are keeping the strut from causing internal damage to itself. This is one of the drawbacks with lowering springs- reduced travel.
 
Just a quick update, Job is pretty much complete! It was alot easier than expected but I'm sure the condition of my car had alot to do with that! Feels like a new car, handles much better! The next thing now I want to do is most/all of the front and rear (poly) bushings. preferably the REAR first! as well as an adjustable pan-rod, feel a little 'rumble' upon takeoff. after the springs/struts/etc, I can definitely tell now how worn the bushings are! Now, I was warned NOT to go with any 'poly bushings' in the rear, does anyone have any ideas why?
 
I assume you have researched how camber/caster and driveline angles change when you lower a car ?

yeah, I plan to replace every single bushing (next few weeks) and install a pan-hard rod. Also, im going to replace all driveline 'wear' parts, like U-joints/bearings/etc. I'm just wondering now if going with all poly in the rear will be to harsh for a DD? Though I make enough power to warrant them.
 
If you're going to go poly in the rear, I would go poly in the panhard bar and the torque Rod bushings everything else stay rubber. OE if possible. If not, no Scantech or URO rubber bushings. Adding any other poly won't allow proper articulation of the rear axle.
 
So I was hoping to come back here for an update on my progress, a review, etc. But, All I have is epic fail. **** you Bilstein Touring struts. and FML. So after a few weeks of driving it seems that they are both equally leaking somehow!? Any ideas? any similar experiences? Please someone tell me this is ok or normal with a lowered car. Or can I at least continue to use them or do I have to do this all over again with PROPER struts this time? (Maybe even top coil overs?) :-(:grrr::wtf:
 
Buy the BNE Select top adjustable strut plate & bearing kit. REMOVE the hat and reinstall your front struts completely with the hat setup preassembled. I've had mine in/out and half doz. times on my 940, and the last reassy. was by far the easiest. It is a PITA to properly fit all the factory parts and have them clocked proper..... with hat in situ. Save the agony, and pass the pre-assy. up into position, then put the locknuts on top. I ran IPD sports for 5 years, but just converted to B&G progressive for "ride improvement".......
 
So I was hoping to come back here for an update on my progress, a review, etc. But, All I have is epic fail. **** you Bilstein Touring struts. and FML. So after a few weeks of driving it seems that they are both equally leaking somehow!? Any ideas? any similar experiences? Please someone tell me this is ok or normal with a lowered car. Or can I at least continue to use them or do I have to do this all over again with PROPER struts this time? (Maybe even top coil overs?) :-(:grrr::wtf:

:nod:

th
 
Bil TC's are "PROPER" struts. Used in the wrong application is where the epic fail is. Put the blame where the blame goes.

-Ryan

But doesn't it seem that there are many TBer's running this shock w/ dropped springs??:wtf::wtf: doesn't it seem like there are many making this setup work???

Maybe it's just me that thinks this. I'm probably not fully grasping the full picture here.
 
Would a shock / strut that bottoms frequently develop a leak? I could see bent control arms or "domed" strut towers, but this sounds odd.
 
The car is lowered about 1.5" and the blame is partly mine for not just going with the HD's in the first place but I have not driven them hard yet and there is only a few hundred miles on them. Older Bilstein TC's were made better, these new ones seem less so. :grrr: I'm just wondering if this happens to all those people with cut springs/stock shocks and similar setups? I will eventually replace them with a coilover system or something of elite quality but for now I'm just wondering if they will still perform until then? ;-)
 
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