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Hackster's LSA / T56 2 door

I reached out to him, He's changing his design now and what about that reservoir ?

Its nice black molded plastic and labeled Edelbrock, but I have searched and searched an never been able to find it online.

These things are the exact reason I reached out to Lance, he has a killer kit put together.

Sorry I cannot give you a part number on it.

Sean
 
I have textured black on valve covers and intake tube - I like the look. Word to the wise - sand smooth the texture underneath the elbow clamping surface. A tiny leak there will set a check engine light/error code as the ecu tries to decide who’s right - maf sensor or map sensor, and finally gives up and says “you figure it out”. ;) Never mind if speed density set up.
 
I reached out to him, He's changing his design now and what about that reservoir ?

Its nice black molded plastic and labeled Edelbrock, but I have searched and searched an never been able to find it online.

These things are the exact reason I reached out to Lance, he has a killer kit put together.

Sorry I cannot give you a part number on it.

Sean

This appears to be the reservoir.
Edelbrock p/n EDB-51-7100
http://www.superchargersonline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12452

e71d336da5882372a1b77bb7440fec58.image.550x550.jpg
 
Its nice black molded plastic and labeled Edelbrock, but I have searched and searched an never been able to find it online.

These things are the exact reason I reached out to Lance, he has a killer kit put together.

Sorry I cannot give you a part number on it.

Sean

Ive been trying to figure out where you've been getting these amazing parts. Ive found other parts that do the same thing but yours just have that extra bling look. Its amazing what other people are able to find. Ebay is letting me down.
 
Ive been trying to figure out where you've been getting these amazing parts. Ive found other parts that do the same thing but yours just have that extra bling look. Its amazing what other people are able to find. Ebay is letting me down.

Some of the stuff came from Lance other stuff I do lots of searching for the right parts.It makes a pretty big difference in the end product, but also remember I have built a few cars and had some amazing people to learn from along the way.

I think I lucked out on the powder coater. They are about 15 minutes from the house and their work has been top notch. Dropped all this stuff off Monday, picked it up done on Friday, I could not find any issues with any of them. 20% gloss black on every bracket, battery box, lower heat exchanger mount. BLK17 textured black for the strut tower bar and intake tube.





I am pretty happy I spent the extra few minutes to do the speed holes and dimple dies on the hood support, it looks a little cleaner and fits the build a little better in my opinion.



Kind of just stared at it friday night after the long week.

Had a friend down Saturday to help with the fuel system, we gutted all of the old fuel lines and dropped the fuel tank to find a terrible mess. The fuel tank was about 75% water and 25% gasoline. The inside of the tank is totally rusted out. This is the pump and level sender.



So that kind of left me at a total loss. We changed direction and tore into the heater box to do the worst task on a car ever, blower motor, wheels, resistor and heater core.





Got it all back together and bolted in the car and was able to get the pedal assembly installed as well, hooked up the clutch pedal and brake pedals as well.

Pulled the factory pressure pump bracket apart and welded up the bottom of it with a new plate and it gave me a great place to mount the Holley 10 micron filter.

Not much progress but hoping to have a little bit of progress this week.
 
so not giving out part numbers then? Can't, won't or just don't know it?

What in particular would you like info on? If I were to post up every part number I would take forever to get this thing put together =) If there is anything specific, let me know, I am always happy to help if I can.

Price on sending unit shipped to 93955? Lol

No **** right? Its the worst tank, pump and sender I have ever seen.

I need to hit you up on some of your rearend and suspension stuff. I have some questions.

Looking good!

Thanks man.

With the tank being shot and waiting for another one to show up I got to work on what I could keep on.

The fuel pump will mount internally to the tank, it has the pump, hydramat and regulator all in one so it will have a single line running forward.

I have to mount a filter somewhere and the stock under car filter and pump location seemed to make a lot of sense. I fashioned a plate to cover the stock holes and got it all welded up. Didnt have time to get it to powdercoat, but only a handful of people will see it so it got the wrinkle paint on it and then got the Holley 10 micron filter and their brackets to hold it in. I think it turned out pretty well.





I didnt take any pics but I ran the fuel line up front under the car, factory location, head sleeved front to rear as I dont want to have any issues down the road. Russell GM connection at the fuel rail is super clean.

So without the tank that is where the fuel system stopped.

So this then took place.



Then everything got cleaned up, brackets all pulled out, brake tabs all hardware soaking in my secret sauce to remove all the grease and undercoating.

Everything got tapped off and shot all new undercoating in the front innerfenders.



I dropped off the lower control arms with the rear bushing pockets at the powder coater monday morning. They blasted them and had them back to me by 4 pm on Wednesday and again some killer work.

I had to be up in Seattle on Tuesday and Portland on Wednesday. So I ordered some parts and picked up on my way home.

New steering rack, wheel bearings inner and outer, seals, lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends and some misc parts.

So here is the haul for the front suspension,

From Ben

JRZ rsone coilovers
machined upper camber plates
adjustable sway bar endlinks
5x114.3 drilled hubs
ARP long wheel studs
mock up roll correction steering arms (new version hopefully coming soon)

STS Machining

R brake mounts

IPD

Lower control arm bushings

Misc,

New 330 mm brake rotors
s60R brake calipers
Custom built braided stainless brake lines, fittings and plugs from Pacific Rubber in Eugene.

Powdercoated lowers



Had a lot of little issues that hung me up today, wheel bearings just did not want to fit on the JRZ spindles, so a fair bit of finesse went to get this together, chopped off the backing plate so that everything operates like it should with proper dust protection and seals.

New steering rack installed, Lower control arms, cleaned up brackets going back in and stainless lines.



I only got the one side buttoned up today but its fully plumbed and mostly tightened up on the one side. Its gonna be low.





I am really digging the details in this little section.



Picking up the 8.8 tomorrow, then off for the weekend to spend some time at the coast. Hope to get back on it sunday for at least a few hours.

Sean
 
Epic build! Super inspiring! I envy both your time management and fabrication skills! I'm sooooo much slower than most of the builders here and it makes me sad lol

I do have a random question. As I understand it, LSx motors are fairly good with boost in stock format, excepting the piston rings needing filing. Any thoughts on that? I know that's what ****ed up the Roadkill budget LS turbo build on Youtube (the first time).

I'm planning an LS build and keep waffling over what the end goal is. My budget's super tight and I am currently leaning towards a humble 4.8 since they're cheaper than dirt, but I don't want to be disappointed right off the bat with performance.

Anyway, great build! Keep up the awesome work!
 
You should fabricate the first Plexiglass flat hood...

Haha Thanks for the compliment but it would be so hard to keep clean :-P

What spring rates?
Dual Stage fronts Main 7" 650 lb 2.5" Tender Spring 250lb spring rate.

Epic build! Super inspiring! I envy both your time management and fabrication skills! I'm sooooo much slower than most of the builders here and it makes me sad lol

I do have a random question. As I understand it, LSx motors are fairly good with boost in stock format, excepting the piston rings needing filing. Any thoughts on that? I know that's what ****ed up the Roadkill budget LS turbo build on Youtube (the first time).

I'm planning an LS build and keep waffling over what the end goal is. My budget's super tight and I am currently leaning towards a humble 4.8 since they're cheaper than dirt, but I don't want to be disappointed right off the bat with performance.

Anyway, great build! Keep up the awesome work!

Thank you, but I have a lot of experience and have built lots of cars so I have a pretty good mental picture before I ever buy a thing. I am also a heavy planner and orderer so I try and think a few steps ahead and always have parts here to work with.

The 4.8 is a solid foundation. The issue that people have in my opinion is getting greedy with power. If you know what your end goal is, build it with that in mind. If you are going to keep it mild, say 500 hp daily driver, do some head gaskets and low boost and have at it. If you are going to boost it to the moon and run crazy numbers, pull it apart, do some rings, ARP stud everything, head gaskets and boost it till you melt a piston or take out the bottom end.

Dont kid yourself, you can make a ton of power with a 4.8.

A ZR1 hood cutout would probably work pretty well with a standard coffin-hood, actually :rofl:

This has seriously crossed my mind and I think it would actually fit pretty well. Ill see how the rest goes and maybe try it down the road.

Sean
 
Well, managed to get the driver side suspension all buttoned up and installed. This sides bearings went on much better than the driver side. I fought with the spindle on that side for hours.

Waiting on tender springs for the front to show up from Eibach and I can bolt in the upper struts for good.

I was planning on just leaving the Dana 30 in the rear, but I just cannot do it, I am too deep in this project to cut corners now.

So last Thurdsay I called around with not much luck finding an 8.8. Did a little junkyarding and found a killer junk yard here in Eugene that had several 8.8's. I lucked out and found one with 3.73's and a limited slip, 31 spline and all. They even had another one next to it that I was able to pull the short side shaft out of.

Took a few days off and visited the coast with the wife, did some hiking (hard on the busted up knee) and had a nice few day break.

Got out in the shop early yesterday and got to work. Unloaded from the truck with the cherry picker and onto jack stands.

For those of you not in the know. This axle is from a 95 to 2002 I believe Ford Explorer, its too wide in stock form but has an offset center section. You can cut down the long side of it and run 2 short side axle shafts and narrow the rearend 2-7/8". These are a disc brake 8.8 rear axle and are very, very tough, 31 spline, factory limited slips and are very well supported by the aftermarket.



Tear down of anything removable from the housing ends.



Then the fun began. Even with a plasma cutter and good grinder this was a pain.

Void of all bracketry and cleaned up for the next steps. I followed a good write up and it worked out far better than anticipated.



Marked out a centerline for alignment, then got my hose clamps out, they make for a nice straight guide line.



Marked up and ready to chop out a section. I cut the end piece off first, trusty grinder with a cut off wheel worked better than expected.

I cut 2-7/8" out and it was perfect.



Ends of the tube got faced and beveled with an 1/8" land and got to jigging everything up to get tacked together.

I used 2- 12" long pieces of 3" C channel and 2 large metal clamps and a quick clamp to hold it together while I got the screw clamps on. It worked good. Clamped this way and tacked, then removed, rotated 90 degrees, re clamped and tacked again.



Once tacked together, I put everything back together to make sure I was able to get the C clips back in and the brakes on, with the shafts.



Everything looked great, tore down, and welded.

Reassmbled everything so I can measure for tabs to go on. Scott is burning out some new tabs that might work for me, hope to have them this week.



Fuel tank should be here today, might be able to get this under the car, fuel pump installed and lines buttoned up by the end of the week.

Rear brakes are ordered, e brake cables, diff cover, fluid, gaskets. Need to figure out some rear coilovers quickly.

Sean
 
I did something really similar when extending the strut tubes on my old 244, 2 pieces of angle iron and some hose clamps held everything straight while I welded it up.

Looks awesome man
 
I followed a good write up and it worked out far better than anticipated.

I'm about to start the same thing for my piece of junk. I've seen a few youtube videos but I like write-ups more. You happen to have a link?

BTW your build is beautiful and I can't wait for LSA numbers. The torque should be a blast.
 
Incredible! Are you going to box the front arms, or did I miss that part?

I'm just up in Salem, I'd love an excuse to come down and lend my hands!
 
I did something really similar when extending the strut tubes on my old 244, 2 pieces of angle iron and some hose clamps held everything straight while I welded it up.

Looks awesome man

Thanks, It worked far better than expected. I used 3" C channel and 3 big clamps and was shocked at how well it held everything together. Ill be using it again in the future.

I'm about to start the same thing for my piece of junk. I've seen a few youtube videos but I like write-ups more. You happen to have a link?

BTW your build is beautiful and I can't wait for LSA numbers. The torque should be a blast.

Thanks, the torque numbers should be really fun from down low. No idea how its going to put power down though =)

The Fabrication Series is the write up that I followed most closely. He does a killer job. Link to part one below, you can link to the rest from there. Its a very hand guide.

http://thefabricatorseries.com/buil...d-explorer-88-rear-axle-part-1-prelude-and-qa



Incredible! Are you going to box the front arms, or did I miss that part?

I'm just up in Salem, I'd love an excuse to come down and lend my hands!

I didnt box them, and for a couple reasons. I have seen several 240's go off the designated path and be able to just replace the lower control arm and some steering parts and maybe a bent strut housing but have zero damage done to the structure of the car. My fear of boxing them is that if I have an off track experience that the structure of the car would be damaged by an curb incident. I think of it as a fuse.

Ill hit you up one of these days, its pretty chill at my place.

Sean
 
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