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1979 242DL - Analog Motoring

I decided to give a 960 throttle body a try...was a bit fiddly to get the TPS oriented and the throttle linkage sorted out, but it is installed and did make a difference in throttle response (as expected), engine revs a bit smoother too IMO.

Thanks to pat244ti for the TPS writeup.
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=332120

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trimmed B230 throttle arm & modified throttle stop

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T5 decel rattle is GONE! :party:
I installed the large slip yoke damper. I found one attached to a driveshaft from a 94 V6 Mustang (most I saw had the smaller damper, YMMV). This yoke seems to be the same as the Ranger damper, but has 1310 u-joints. :e-shrug:
I had previously raised the tail of the transmission as much as I could, and needed to remove approx 1/8" of spacers to make the damper fit. As others have noted, the x-member needs to be lowered to remove/install the driveshaft.
I re-adjusted the pinion angle using the Tremec app. All checked out ok, and no more decel rattle. w00t.

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I'm at a crossroads with this car...it is fine as-is, but has mostly been sitting and collecting dust over the past yr or so. Don't see myself in a position to do much of anything to it anytime soon...I guess I have gotten bored with it. Considering putting it up for sale and moving on.
 
I'm at a crossroads with this car...it is fine as-is, but has mostly been sitting and collecting dust over the past yr or so. Don't see myself in a position to do much of anything to it anytime soon...I guess I have gotten bored with it. Considering putting it up for sale and moving on.

Dang!

I know I have had the odd thought of selling my car when I hit a snag. Is there any other reason then you are just bored with it?
 
I'm at a crossroads with this car...it is fine as-is, but has mostly been sitting and collecting dust over the past yr or so. Don't see myself in a position to do much of anything to it anytime soon...I guess I have gotten bored with it. Considering putting it up for sale and moving on.

Sorry to hear that. If you do end up selling, someone will end up with a really cool car. You put a lot of hard work into it.
 
Installed a Simons 2.5" exhaust and headpipe with enlarged merge area. Seat-of-the-pants dyno says that it freed up some torque. Sound-wise it is about as loud as the previous 240T system, but has a deeper tone and is not as harsh sounding. Also cruising on the highway is much quieter.

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old merge
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new merge
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Also enjoyed a fall drive today.
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Idea

I love two strokes, and love redblocks, and love the idea of combining the two. So I was thinking as I've seen done with smaller engines, converting it from a 4 stroke engine to a 2 stroke engine while maintaining the stock engine but in a modified form as can be seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7cwAe5mLig lots of work involved BUT very cool. I also personally consider swapping in a 90hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard from the 90s at some point, just some of my personal thoughts if anyone would like to share thoughts on them:) and yes I know about costs and resources blahblahblah, I like engineering and just finding ways to make it work yet also find cost effective alternatives, any thoughts? (btw, I've seen snowmobile engines several times swapped into mazda rx7s so why not?)
 
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Car is running like a champ.
Exhaust makes a "ticking" sound under load. I can't find any evidence of an exhaust leak and manifold / head pipe bolts are tight. I think it has always had this sound to some degree, but I notice it more now since the Simons exhaust isn't as loud. Thoughts?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1yzeGd8BY1Y" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Occasionally having a "high idle" after driving for a while.
When the high idle happens, it comes down to normal idle (~800 rpm) and then jumps to ~1200.
Turning off the car and turning it back on immediately yields normal idle.
It only seems to occur after the car has been driven for around an hour.

My first thought is something with the VSS circuit, since that is not stock, but so far my diagnosis hasn't found anything concrete. I monitored the voltage from the Ford VSS on my multimeter to confirm it was generating voltage. During driving it does show voltage on the multimeter so I am assuming that the VSS is ok. I do not think I can check the output of the Dakota Digital box without an oscilloscope.

Any thoughts?
 
I found that the bushing in my steering rack was MIA...maybe that's why the steering has always been shaky :rofl:...who knows how long it has been like this, but was an easy fix with the SuperPro SPF0931K replacement. Made a noticeable difference, especially during lane changes on the hwy. Should also re-check the toe alignment at some point.

Before:
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After:
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What was left of the original bushing:
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Made the drive out to the Mid-Atlantic Volvo Club meet-up in NJ.
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