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240 with T5 drive shaft

JohnMc said:
That too. Every time I bothered to check, those adjuster nuts were loose. Tighten the way the hell tight again, they'd loosen up right away. I think the poly bushings just didn't deflect enough when one wheel would move up, so it would twist the arms instead, and loosen up those adjuster nuts.
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To me it seems to be an issue with thread pitch. IPD used like the most coarse thread pitch they could find, so the slightest amount of nut movement creates a gap. If they were a very fine machine thread it would be a tighter fit less likely to loosen. I have the same problem as you, every other day the IPD junk loosens up. I've tried thread locker with no success. Been thinking about putting a big wave washer between the jam nut and rod but wasn't able to get any 3/4" waves in my area. Thought about hacking off the coarse threads and putting fine threads on, but, probably just gonna get the Yoshifab bars.
 
I already posted in this thread how to fix the nuts loosening. Just stick a split locking washer in between the nut and bar and they'll stay tight.
 
Squad... I'm bumping this thread as I've ordered 95% of the parts for my T5 minus the driveshaft. And have Q's.

Couple questions.
1. Who knows more about this Ford Aerostar setup? It seems the shafts are two piece, so what would I be looking for exactly?
2. For the foxbody Mustang driveshafts, I ASSUME I'm looking for the ones out of T5 cars, but figured I'd ask about auto trans cars as well? Yea/Nay?
3. Since I have a 260 box (out of the 2000's V6's) anybody know if that driveshaft will work?
4. What about the crown vics?

Chasing down a mustang driveshaft has been more challenging than anticipated. I'm not opposed to using Yoshis adapter, but if that's $100, and the driveshaft is $100... I feel like I'm pretty close to just modifying or having a custom setup done and KNOWING that it's in good shape outright no?
 
Oh I see... the AWD system is more like Nissan where the front shaft comes off the transfer box and yadda yadda...

Ok so wait then. If I snag the rear driveshaft from 95-96 AWD is it a straight bolt in, or do I need to swap yokes or whatever?
 
EivlEvo said:
3. Since I have a 260 box (out of the 2000's V6's) anybody know if that driveshaft will work?
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Curious to this myself - The driveshaft splines should be the same and insert into the gearbox without issue, but I read the question more in regards to length :-)oogle:) and being able to fit the same while using the Yoshifab adapter.

I hear tell of the input shaft being 1/4" longer and people either swap shafts or otherwise remove 1/4" from the input shaft through various methods.

I could find out the hard way, but I'd rather not.
 
t8fanning said:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/awd-aerostar-aluminum-driveshaft.743202/

You need a yoshifab adapter.

I swapped yokes to a brand new ford racing one because the slip joint had a damper on it and that was too large for the tunnel. You can remove the damper and use it if the yoke OD isn't too worn from the seal.
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Fascinating... I seem to have located one at a local shop... they're still asking $100 for the damn thing. Bloody price of aluminum is up apparently.

Thinking about just ordering something aluminum and new... All these used options seem... potentially dangerous.
 
MDVLN said:
Curious to this myself - The driveshaft splines should be the same and insert into the gearbox without issue, but I read the question more in regards to length :-)oogle:) and being able to fit the same while using the Yoshifab adapter.

I hear tell of the input shaft being 1/4" longer and people either swap shafts or otherwise remove 1/4" from the input shaft through various methods.

I could find out the hard way, but I'd rather not.
Click to expand...

For my 260 box I ordered the proper input shaft. The info that I'm seeing is mostly indicating that driveshafts are the same from like 79-04 on the mustangs... but I wouldn't count it as fact yet.

I'm trying to come up with more info I guess...

I'm wondering if a more ideal driveshaft has shown itself yet.
 
Been reading Hot Rod's April issue regarding a guy with a TKO in a challenger with vibration problems. Drive line shop made a shaft with a cv joint at the front yoke. This eliminated moving
The tranny around to adjust the front angle.
Also been reading Fatman's book on suspension, and he stresses that when lowering a car that the
Suspension arms be parallel with the ground under full weight and height adjustment should result in this position. He also makes a recommendation to use slight downward angle on pinion, so that as the axle rotates under load, the pinion angle is 0* .
 
Anybody know the rough length of the driveshaft needed? Have we considered the Ford Exploder driveshaft? The 4.0 is 50.5" and aluminum.
 
NVM I'm dumb... I'd have to swap flanges and such I think. Plus... it seems that we're closer to 46.5" based on quick searching.
 
Stock mustang is 45.5" at u joint centers with a 5-6" slip yoke. 1310 diff yoke is 1.63 from u joint center to flange face. With the right combination u joint you could throw a Dana diff yoke on a mustang shaft.
 
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